|
|
Jul 16, 2020 15:02:26 GMT
|
How big are the wheels?
I'll go up in the loft later and have a quick look. You never know!
I was given boxes of meccano, from vintage to modern, about 5 years ago. I never even looked at it, just stuck it in the loft.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Jul 16, 2020 14:53:04 GMT
|
Undeniably cool, but can't help thinking its a lot of effort for 100bhp and expensive engine spares. Still, as I say, undeniably cool which is the main thing π Yeah I'm really not doing it for the power. I could get just as much power from my Datsun engine (but it would be peaky and lumpy) Main reason I'm silly enough to take this on is because of the interest/challenge for me in doing so and the sound its gonna make when finished! I love the sound of flat sixes. Oh also- what it does lack in bhp it makes up for in torque - 115 lbft is pretty meaty in an Imp and it will hopefully be smooth but punchy, so making the car feel faster than it is. Probably better for real world driving then having to ring its tits off all the time. Plus a better spread of gears too. The imps gearbox with its 4000 rpm at 100kph gets boring quite quickly. I completely agree. It's a great idea and I'd do it myself, even if it may be an odd choice on paper.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Jul 16, 2020 14:51:26 GMT
|
nem351s is possibly my favorite number plate ever, since pen510n ... and m1nce! On the topic of number plates i saw this locally Not something many people would openly declare π
|
|
Last Edit: Jul 16, 2020 21:07:34 GMT by VW
|
|
|
|
|
Undeniably cool, but can't help thinking its a lot of effort for 100bhp and expensive engine spares.
Still, as I say, undeniably cool which is the main thing π
|
|
Last Edit: Jul 16, 2020 6:59:05 GMT by VW
|
|
|
|
Jul 15, 2020 21:22:44 GMT
|
Looking great. Reminds me of the old traficators in my anglia. Left them 6v but converted the car to 12v. They sprung up with some force! Was like arkwrights till π
|
|
|
|
|
|
Jul 15, 2020 18:29:04 GMT
|
I have a load of old meccano in the loft, around the same era as this. It normal meccano kits though, but if you need any nuts etc I can see if I have any the same.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Jul 14, 2020 18:07:31 GMT
|
Seems a reasonable reason to visit . I rarely do anything other than drive through the Midlands though, on my way somewhere else. I'll put it on my mental list of places to check out. Technically its the Midlands, we can't be too far away from each other as I'm in Mansfield [insert rival town comment] I'm in chesterfield
|
|
|
|
|
|
Jul 14, 2020 13:05:55 GMT
|
the motor museum in Coventry is a good one and they have thrust SSC Seems a reasonable reason to visit . I rarely do anything other than drive through the Midlands though, on my way somewhere else. I'll put it on my mental list of places to check out.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Jul 14, 2020 10:43:32 GMT
|
I had to look it up on the map to even know where Coventry was π It's an easy trip down south from where you are! Just never had reason to go. If I did have a reason it needs to be better than gaydon or the motorcycle museum as I think I'd go past both those first
|
|
Last Edit: Jul 14, 2020 10:43:48 GMT by VW
|
|
|
|
Jul 13, 2020 16:48:00 GMT
|
Never been to coventry then? The wheel factory was massive. I had to look it up on the map to even know where Coventry was π
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Jul 13, 2020 16:17:27 GMT
|
It's worth the effort, looks really smart and much better than generic seat covers. The cheap seat covers I had put on were as ripped and faded as the seats now! They have been on for a few years now though. The time had definitely come to do something
|
|
|
|
|
|
Jul 13, 2020 15:57:53 GMT
|
I will get some hose so I can pipe it and and see how it fits as I need to find somewhere to mount it. I'm tempted to fit it against the rear bulk head in front of the radiator but topping up will require me to unmount it. That said when doing it on an r5 I tended to unmount and hold it higher anyway. A 2 piece bracket that slots together would be nice. I can't remember what they are on, but I've seen plastic bottles with a wedge moulded in that slots down into the metal bracket. Anything along those lines.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Jul 13, 2020 14:49:08 GMT
|
I decided to leave the seat as is, I think it's the best overall option. Just done the drivers seat base. Taking them apart, cleaning the vinyl and unlocking the seams takes longer than sewing it all back together!
|
|
|
|
|
|
Jul 13, 2020 10:32:42 GMT
|
I noticed the steel wheels for the cf were made by Dunlop. Had a bit of a Google and seems they also made the steels for mini coopers and lotus cortinas i think. Dunlops steel wheels all seem to look similar in style.
I was wondering how many/what other cars had Dunlop made steels. Were they prolific? We're they a common steel wheel manufacturer?
I know they made some fancy steels and some alloys. I assume a lot of vehicle manufacturers farm out the wheel manufacturing.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Jul 12, 2020 21:14:38 GMT
|
Looking great! I've a new appreciation for interior work now I'm having a go!
|
|
|
|
|
|
Jul 12, 2020 20:01:35 GMT
|
Epoxy has its own dedicated thinners - not std 2K thinners. This is probably your problem. Yes, spot prime and then just flat back again. I asked a while back about epoxy primer thinners and it was suggested that it's ment to be used with 2k thinners but the celly thinners i had would be fine. Not tried it yet though. Could it balling be because it's too soft, maybe due to not enough hardener? Just wondering as I'll be using my epoxy again soon and will need to thin, I was planning on just using celly thinners. Edit to say it wasn't you who advised me last time.
|
|
Last Edit: Jul 12, 2020 20:02:07 GMT by VW
|
|
|
|
Jul 12, 2020 19:03:50 GMT
|
Epic car! Top work. Curious, why is one shock in front of the axle and one behind? Good question! Something to do with the dynamics of the suspension I think. Maybe to help reduce spring wrap (axle tramp) when going on and off the power? Can anyone improve on that? That would have been my guess too, although I'm not sure how the physics of that work.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Jul 12, 2020 19:01:54 GMT
|
See I hear the thing about rollering these sort of non catalyst paints, I use these paints quite a lot but Iβm yet to find rollers that donβt melt or go all baggy and fall off the spindles. I bought a Β£30 spray gun and learnt how to use it properly, way better finish than rollers or brushes and a lot easier. Indeed, and I still have the guns and compressor I originally painted it with (although the compressor is rubbish). I wouldn't even be considering any of this if I had any space. I'd sand the whole van back and redo the paint job properly. However, as I don't even have a drive, let alone a garage, spraying it is out the question. My neighbours car is parked about 12 inches away from my van! I can move it about and puff a few bits in with aerosol, but that's about it. I've been reading up a bit and using enamel will mean if I paint it in future I'll either have to strip it all off or barrier coat it. I think for now I'll stick with just fixing any rust bubbles, removing any flaked areas, do some repairs in celly and then polish it. I'm really not looking to makenitnlook great, just want it to look less abandoned π Dez, I'll be using some epoxy primer on a different project soon and was going to use mohair. Is that one you have tried and found not to work?
|
|
|
|
|
|
Jul 12, 2020 18:49:37 GMT
|
Putting coach paint on with a foam roller can give a superb finish, would be ideal for something of this size. Still got to prep it to the same standard as a spray job though. Indeed, paint type or application process doesn't change the amount of work the surface needs. I find foam rollers with most paints though can risk bubbles in the surface. When I was decorating, for gloss coats, it was always brush or mohair roller. If I end up taking the coach painting route I'll practice first with all 3 options. Unrelated, but I did once try a foam roller with epoxy primer. It dissolved π
|
|
|
|
|
|
Jul 12, 2020 18:16:13 GMT
|
I've got the same issue in a few places on the Princess where the paint was thinner, so that would bear out your theory. I've still found Kurust is great as a rust converter, especially on seams, though others don't, it must be something about application or any of the other million variable factors. Kurust does appear to work better on a seam where it can sit for a while rather than an open panel where it goes on thinner, so it could just be that it needs a thicker or multiple coats to be best. One of the most durable paints I've ever used that wasn't prone to cracking etc. was Dacrylate enamel brush-on paint. Minimal fuss and mess, just a slower dry time than aerosols. The black is excellent if you're patient with prep and the Dacrylate red primer (also brush on) sands really nicely and seems to help a lot with keeping rust at bay. It's cheap too, five litres of red primer and black should be plenty to do the top half of the van. Just be sure to spend ages getting the nicest surface to the primer you can before applying top coat and use the best quality brush you can get hold of. The knack really is to 'dress' the surface after applying the paint, which is where you lightly drag a good quality brush over the surface one way, and then the other, using as little pressure as physically possible without dropping the brush, and leave it to level out and cure at its own pace, being sure not to load the brush up with paint when you do it. Look up narrowboat painting and coach painting videos on Youtube, they really helped me get the technique down when I had a go at it a few years ago. Coach painting with a brush is something I've always been curious about. I've seen some fantastic paint jobs done like this on vintage vehicles. I'd be a little concerned about being able to over paint it later on though. I'll play with some tidying up and see how it goes before making any final decisions.
|
|
|
|
|