that guide isn't especially applicable to a 405/berlingo/partner/xsara picasso beam as they don't use an adjustable fastener on one end of the bar, just an offset washer both ends, I havent found any documentation but essentially I think you adjust seal clearance by pushing the seal against the cup, rather than moving the arm with a seal fully pressed home.
the main issue with these is the bars seize in on the splines and you will struggle to get sufficient force applied to free them, very careful use of oxy-propane can do the trick, the castings are quite dense things so a normal gas torch barely warms them up.
the main reason to remove the bar fully from the axle is to allow more accurate height adjustment due to the differing number of splines each end, making fine adjustments possible, the inner end of the torsion bar also has a longer spline which will engage before the outer end, rotate the bar till you find the pair of splines that line up and push home without excessive force.
the other reason is that if you aren't budgeting on a beam rebuild pulling an old set of bearings off the protruding shaft can lead to them collapsing.
due to the Anti roll bar being clamped into both trailing arms across the front you either need to remove this or remove both torsion bars and set the height at the same time, you will need to drop the dampers off as well as the resting height of the arms is beyond full travel at standard ride height.
the most accurate way to set the height is with an adjustable dummy damper, I'm unsure of the exact ratio but a 205/305 is around 2.5-1, i.e a 10mm decrease in damper length at rest will give a 25mm drop.
the main issue with these is the bars seize in on the splines and you will struggle to get sufficient force applied to free them, very careful use of oxy-propane can do the trick, the castings are quite dense things so a normal gas torch barely warms them up.
the main reason to remove the bar fully from the axle is to allow more accurate height adjustment due to the differing number of splines each end, making fine adjustments possible, the inner end of the torsion bar also has a longer spline which will engage before the outer end, rotate the bar till you find the pair of splines that line up and push home without excessive force.
the other reason is that if you aren't budgeting on a beam rebuild pulling an old set of bearings off the protruding shaft can lead to them collapsing.
due to the Anti roll bar being clamped into both trailing arms across the front you either need to remove this or remove both torsion bars and set the height at the same time, you will need to drop the dampers off as well as the resting height of the arms is beyond full travel at standard ride height.
the most accurate way to set the height is with an adjustable dummy damper, I'm unsure of the exact ratio but a 205/305 is around 2.5-1, i.e a 10mm decrease in damper length at rest will give a 25mm drop.