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Aug 23, 2015 16:49:36 GMT
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Ah! Good! I'm currently also more into some construction work. The Taxi has done a whopping 10km this week - then the injector started knocking and missfiring REALY bad! I mean - BAD. So - the mission was halted and the lathe made operational instead. E knows someone who knows about alternating current. And since I know that I don't know anything about AC - that was very welcome! And withhin an hour, the lathe could make it's first shavings. Lovely! But I need different (hardened) turning tools - on order. So - I turned my attention from the lathe to my little workshop. Something's always been bugging me; my workbench with the big vice is in the basement, not in the workshop. And that's rather not so clever. Time to change that! It started with something like this... ...which is a lot of space, but used poorly and blöödy unefficient. So - first of - big clearout. Moving the undershelf to the other side of the center pillar and turn it into some sort of high rack. And now there's MORE storage space AND a big space for a workbench, though currently occupied by the OM606. The top of this will also get another shelf and the other side of the workshop will also get some shelfs at some point. It's all not huge, but convenient enough to qualify as a workshop and not just a parking space... The next two big concerns are: the floor. It's paved and very uneven. I'm probably going to rip it all out and pour a concrete floor. Maybe even seal the floor. Makes sense IMO. If I can't solve the issue with the injector not sitting right - the OM606 will go into this car. I quite like the idea of a Turbodiesel-sleeper-Taxi....... Cheers, Jan
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Aug 20, 2015 20:44:14 GMT
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So, I opted for the screwed coupling... It fits good, only the little end I had to reduce a bit. Would have loved to do this on the lathe, but there's still some 50's-to-modern-wiring-issue to overcome, though. Anyway, I fitted 4 hose clamps, just to be on the save side. It'll dump 60-70l on the road, in a "worst case" scenario. Not pretty, but works. The secondary return line is blocked with a door pin Then I sanded the lower edge of the quarter panel to paint it. Or - better - give it a quick'n'dirty once over with the rattle can... Neither pretty nor very good, but better than stains of red oxide. I let it cure for some hours, during which I put the interior together. And this time I went slightly mad... The rear bench did jam solid in the upright position when I tried to attach it. I tried to be gentle, I tried to kick it with both feet swinging like an ape in the boot - it didn't budge. The two levers locking it were moving freely and made noises when pushing/releasing them. FÜCK!!!!!!11111eleven! It took me quite some time to figure out that the push rod runing under the wheel arch cover had randomply popped out the latch that hold the back rest. It releases the lock to fold down the bench when the seat cushion is folded upwards. And boy was it fiddly to try and pry open the wheel arch cover to somehow manually disengage the lock-lever... And the time it took until I had THAT figured out - fücking hell! I had inspected & oiled this all before I put the wheel arch cover on - random sh!t happens, I guess... At the very least I now know that the latch can withstand quite a substantial pounding. And to make matters even worse - that blöödy fücking arschloch of Bosal tow-bar is the single-most worst fücking thing on the planet! It's almost impossible to put the bumper back on - and with the bumper on it's almost impossible to get the tow bar on. What a piece of utter cräp!! Needless to say I put some deep scratches in the paint (it was still soft, probably had that can in the freezer too long...)... And it looks totaly cräp as well with the socket sticking out two miles... Bad decision. Should have put it in the bin. Bosal - I've never had anything good sold under that brand. It fits poorly, it's of stupid design and it looks awefull. I'd be puking in circles if I had bought this new... Bad decision to fit this. I don't even realy need it... Oh fück. Next was to pull the 5th injector again - totaly sooted and overheated (heat colouring), at least that's my knocking engine noise explained, it's probably sticking. Awesome! Brand new injector, allready fücked. Put in a different design of heat shield and put some soapy water on - it's still not sealing properly. Going by the look of the heat shield & injector face, the injector or heat shild don't sit perfectly angled, but "leaned" slightly to one side... Best case: wrongly machined pre-chamber (it's the odd pre-chamber from a few posts back). Worst case: someone fücked up the lock ring/thread in the cylinder head. THIS would suck giant hairy dogs dangles...... Clearly a monday today. Please excuse the excessive blöödy swearing... Cheers, Jan
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Aug 19, 2015 20:21:26 GMT
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So today was not very productive - I was mainly driving around, trying to get stuff I didn't get in the end. As always. No fitting fuel hose, no hose reducers that will fit - and worst of all; the fuel strainer I ordered at MB's is sheduled to arrive in 3/2016. Maybe. Hoo-ha. Awesome. That said; I still managed a couple of things... Put the tank back in (god, that vent/riser hose is a PITA), bled the brakes and welded the exhaust for the 7th time And this is the best I was able to get to connect my gasoline tank to my diesel fuel line... Sigh. I've ordered the fuel hose for the gasoline cars that runs from tank to the first pump (right behind the fuel tank) and see if I can make something with that. It's 7€, worth a shot. I knew I had to fab something up here, what I did not know is that it is not possible to get fuel hose larger than 10mm localy...... Blargh. More next time. Cheers, Jan
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Aug 18, 2015 21:11:53 GMT
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I think it was not before 1997 for Mercedes to switch to blade fuses
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Aug 18, 2015 18:50:48 GMT
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Dankeschön! Can't wait to make magnetic curls with it Still needs it's current pipes re-attached, though. And speaking of attaching pipes; today I finally got round to fitting working rear calipers. Which meant; making a new brake line. 'Cause the passenger's side was stuck solid, so I had to cut off the hose. And make a new brake line. And so I did. Good call, it was pretty rusty. Unlike the driver's side brake line, which opened and is rust free, so that stayed in the car. Then I bolted up the tow bar, a lousy fitting Bosal aftermarket thingy. But hey - the electrics are the worst bit, changing the actuall tow bar on a T-Modell is dead easy. The holes are drilled, the electrics are there - this thing will only stay on the car untill I find a removable genuine towbar. And wholst the paint on the drilled holes dryed, I welded my little rust hole, put primer on it. The edge will need new paint, bit work left there... And whilst this was drying and the towbar was up, I sorted the connections for the wiring loom in the fuse box. God I hate the fuse box - soo much. But I got there in the end and all is working as intended - all good. Put the lid back on and called it a day. Fuel tank strainer will arrive tomorrow, then the fuel tank & exhaust can go back in. Cheers, Jan
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Aug 17, 2015 19:17:16 GMT
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Thanks gents! Today I started by blowing a breach through the car - all for a bit of wiring... But stop, let's go back to that parts car. It's officially scrapped. The dinky engine was so blown, it could only serve as an ashtray... I think that's the first time we left an engine in a parts car... Washed out bores, knocking mains, worn out camshaft bearings - nothing worth saving here. Other parts however - pretty well preserved. And so I loaded the boot of the Taxi up with tat... Towbar (aftermarket) and fuel tank. You may remember my issues with rust in the pre-filter? Yepp. that's what that is for. So why did I have to cut that breach through the whole car?? Blöödy electrics I tell you! The wiring loom needs to run to the fuse box & flasher relais to not confuse that damn Lighting Module. Surprisingly, the sedan wiring loom fit's pretty well, I only need to extend a single wire! Actually, the middle section is too long even! And on a wagon you only need to drill 4 pre-peened holes to mount a tow bar. So I did. And ended up right in a barrier of randomly applied seam sealer that was holding back - a LAKE of cavity wax! There's a good cm of wax in the bottom of the rear crossmember To drill the last hole, I removed the exhaust - which was easy removable, much to my surprise! Not rotten or stuck at all - nice! The exhaust had to come out anyway, to make removing the fueltank (much) easyer. And so I did. On a wagon it's a surprisingly easy task. Remove 4 bolts, unplug vent hose, unplug sender - and wiggle it out. It's as easy as that. Now - the new tank is not a direct-fit... Gasoline tanks have three instead of two pipes and the outlet is of a larger diameter. I'll plug the center pipe and use a pipe reducer to go to the original fuel line. The SVO/WVO guys prefere gasoline tanks for the bigger outlet and swap out the fuel lines to bigger ones. I'm not doing that since I'm runing the car on dino juice... I'm too lazy for SVO/WVO. The gasoline fuel strainer is also different - for swapping them over I bought a man sized hex key And of course the filler neck needs the gasoline reducer flap thingy drilled out... Which is no big job. But quite important if you want to fill the tank at the station I found a bit of rust at the filler neck's bottom, which was cured with Owatrol oil. I also flooded the seam, just to be safe. And of course there was more rust to be found on the car, I cut this out allready, welding tomorrow or wednesday, I also need to weld up another hole in the engine bay, so that can wait a little. Need to sort out other stuff before anyway. The rear end got pretty naked - there's soo much room without exhaust & tank. No nasty suprises here, all solid and good. Not even surface rust bubbles like usual The rest of the evening I spent whith putting the Godzilla lathe on a table top and the table top on the work bench thingy. Oiled it a bit - love it! The work bench is made from solid steel plates and has suprising amounts of storage space inside That's it for now. More tomorrow Cheers, Jan
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Aug 13, 2015 18:39:32 GMT
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However - as you can see it's no finished. I had totaly forgotten that the injectors are different between straight injection and inclined injection. Inclined to the left, straight to the right. The difference is; inclined injection injectors bolt into the pre-chamber. Straight injection injectors, like on the Taxi's engine, bolt to the (taler) lock ring. The thread in both pre-chambers is the same. Straight injection pre-chambers are also threaded, to bolt in the extraction tool (aka. slide hammer). But - what will happen if I bolt the pin-wrench retainer to the pre-chamber and not the lock ring itself? You guessed it. Sweet f*cking nothing at all. And of course I hacked a inclend injector to donate the threaded bit.... I don't have büggered straight injection injectors to cut up, only inclined injection injectors. Sooo - that wil have to wait a little longer. Sadly. Grrr. So - to be able to make a better tool, I bought this... Which sent us on a 16h 1300km trip... Two masive work benches and... ...the tool I've been lusting after for so long It's a Swiss made Lesto Godzilla* mechanics lathe, probably from the 60's or 70's. When they made ultra refined machines with swiss precision and passion. Lovely! Is has very little wear. The only problem is - I don't even know how to operate a lathe But I guess it's a matter of learning and there's no learning without something to learn on. Maybe I'm doing a write-up on that trip, but it's herdly relevant since it was done with a blöödy space ship made in 2014... Anyway - that's all. But I have two weeks off starting from today - things might happen. Maybe we'll even see some major progress on the Coupé front! Cheers, Jan *: kidding. It's a Lesto Scintilla - but I call it Godzilla due to it's appealing green-ness and jaws :-)
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Aug 10, 2015 20:40:32 GMT
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Jul 29, 2015 18:34:32 GMT
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Yeah yeah, I know. But ball bearing is easyer to type (yes, I'm that lazy ) Seller offered sending naother diff - I'm not stopping him
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Jul 27, 2015 19:52:05 GMT
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Can you not leave it to stand in something to soak and free off the offending bearing? Bloody bargain either way though, wish i could get a good clean diff like that for my ole german bus Well I guess if a ball bearing is seized, there's no chemical in the world that will fix it. The bearings are expensive at MB's, but I could bet they used off-the-shelf bearings and no special made bearings. IF it's a bearing, I'm not yet entirely sure about that. But I'll find out. If time allows. ooooh that 2.65 is pretty! Whats the going rate on a 3.07 these days? Ive a spare 190e 2.3 16v manual ASD here with driveshafts and rear prop shaft. Any idea what that setup would be worth? Basically its everything required to get the ASD into a w201. what way do you test for play? do you wiggle the input shaft to see when the driveshafts turn? I payed 120€ including shipping for the 3.07. And I think that was a bargain, I'd assume a good one will be in the region of 150-200€? Don't know. But they'r sought after, like all the tall ratios. As for the 16V diff - no idea. But I think people like these for simplicity over the hydraulically actuated diff. With a W124 rear cover it will alos fit the W124 chassis Testing: yeah, that's pretty much what I do. Also turn the output shafts against each other to see how much play the differential gears have (they usually wear out first). It's not very scientific, but you can tell a peach from a turd, so to say. Well - who knows. Maybe another 2,87 ASD turns up, I'll just buy it. I don't have a deadline for this anyway. So - time's with me But it would have been nice to cross the diff off the list for good. But oh well. Cheers, Jan
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Jul 27, 2015 18:38:44 GMT
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Ha! It was one of those, I remember the advertising Awesome!
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Jul 27, 2015 17:50:56 GMT
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And so I opened it up immediately, to see if there's something apparently wrong with it. But - it's all looking good. The oil is clear, the slush at the bottom is black and without any glitter and the gears, from what I can tell, look to be in excellent condition. Almost no magnetic shavings on the magnet I dragged through the oil. But - it doesn't turn. I can turn the output shafts, so it's most probably a seized input shaft/pinion bearing. Fortunately it's stuck in a position that allows me to pull the C-clips holding the output shafts, so I don't need to force anything. It was cheap. Blöödy cheap, considering how rare it is - 80€. But still, it's a MAJOR bügger 'cause it means a lot more work and I have so little time left for this project... But, well. At least I have a casing that has a factory "2,87" imprint and a gearset I can hopefully make use of. Fingers crossed! If all fails, I still have these to try... A 150.000km 3.07 ASD diff with almost no feelable play: And a brand new factory boxed 2.65 ASD diff: ^MB sold these for less than 400€ (with some connections). Reduced from 2300€ (before VAT) Oooof. I just HAD to grab one. Same as with the Sportsline steering gearbox last year. The 3.07 diff will probably find it's way into the Taxi, though. It needs a replacement soon (whining)... Anyway - that's the last missing piece not-realy-sorted. Dang. I hate when things don't go as planed. But getting this thing for 110e shipped was just too good to be true... Cheers, Jan
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Jul 27, 2015 17:42:13 GMT
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Ah. Oh well. Bliss & bitterness. almost two weeks ago I bought a differential. The one I needed so badly. Today was finally the day and I was greated by this at the door when I came home from work: A W124 diff with the ultra-rare 2.87:1 gear set AND ASD!! I was like *WOOO-FOOKING-HOO!!!!!*. Untill I tried to turn it. Which it didn't. Yes. Stuck solid. FÜCK!!!
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Jul 27, 2015 17:39:00 GMT
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Ha! One of my favourite bands as well! Nice one!! Thanks for sharing! I spotted a wagon in Munic a couple of times, but never got a picture.
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Jul 25, 2015 16:07:43 GMT
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The odd pre-chamber kept me thinking. I bought a new one. After finding out that the one I need is offered at half price at MB's currently. I also think it lets compression escape, there's a slight, rhytmic noise of air blowing in idle (reving gets too loud to hear it with all the racket a diesel makes). So I chopped an old chain tensioner, a axle nut and injector up and made a little tool. Or - tried to. It's basicaly a pin wrench with a threaded rod going through. To tighten the pin wrench to the pre-chamber lock nut. They can be VERY tight, a normal pin wrench would probably slip. However - as you can see it's no finished. I had totaly forgotten that the injectors are different between straight injection and inclined injection. Inclined to the left, straight to the right. The difference is; inclined injection injectors bolt into the pre-chamber. Straight injection injectors, like on the Taxi's engine, bolt to the (taler) lock ring. The thread in both pre-chambers is the same. Straight injection pre-chambers are also threaded, to bolt in the extraction tool (aka. slide hammer). But - what will happen if I bolt the pin-wrench retainer to the pre-chamber and not the lock ring itself? You guessed it. Sweet f*cking nothing at all. And of course I hacked a inclend injector to donate the threaded bit.... I don't have büggered straight injection injectors to cut up, only inclined injection injectors. Sooo - that wil have to wait a little longer. Sadly. Grrr. Should have done the brakes today instead, finally...
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I don't think so. But a paint job works well enough...
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Jul 19, 2015 19:44:21 GMT
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Can someone explain this? And recently spotted this rather fitting Polish plate Great thread!!
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Jul 19, 2015 16:11:13 GMT
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But you need rocket scientist's tools for the job
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Jul 18, 2015 21:57:20 GMT
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Anyone know what happened to this guy??
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Jul 18, 2015 20:37:11 GMT
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Ooooof at those rear buckets!!!
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