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Firstly, the answer to your initial question is no, you cannot tell who hit who by paint transfer.
You can, however, tell that the green MG his your car due to several reasons:
The damage to your Meriva is isolated to the very corner of the bumper, The damage to the MG is stretched across the wheelarch, The damage appears to be at the same height on both vehicles (my estimation going on the size of the wheels - get a tape measure and check both cars, photograph the tape next to the damage to show the distance from the ground) The MG's damage is at the back which is trailing and as others have said, you would have had to do one epic handbrake turn in order to do that. The damage is similar in severity to both vehicles. The damage is consistent with the hypothesis that your neighbour pulled out a space forwards, dragging the side of his car along the corner of yours.
I would be interested to see if there is any damage to his left rear wheel as this will tell if his vehicle was/wasn't stationary at the time. Spirals of scratches on the spokes would indicate that his wheel was turning at the point of impact.
Another thing to consider is that your neighbour brought this to your attention. And in doing so he has admitted (inadvertently) that there is damage to his car where previously there was none.
My advise would be to let him take it to the insurance company. When you get the letter, kick up a stink and INSIST on a physical inspection of both vehicles. When the assessor comes to look at the car(s), point out the things as mentioned above and he will quickly come to the conclusion you are not at fault.
For pig iron, a rough estimate for your damage is: 1hour strip and refit bumper Half an hour repair bumper 3hours painting Half an hour polishing 3quid EPA charge 0.3 hours check and qc 50quid collection and delivery 40quid 2 days car hire 120quid paint and sundries
At 30quid an hour that comes to: 159 labour 120 materials 93 misc costs 372 total plus vat comes to 446.40.
Top tip is to get a full retail quote from a bodyshop who you know is NOT part of his insurance company's approved repairer network (pay them for it if necessary, you can claim it back later). They may try to twist your arm into using an approved repairer but you are Not obliged to do so. This way, they won't be obliged to get a discounted rate on the repairs. Make sure the shop you get the estimate from load it up as much as possible as above. Then insist on a 'cash-in-lieu' payment for the value of the estimate so you can get it done in your own time.
Polish and touch up your bumper one Saturday morning and buy yourself some more parts for the retro with your pay out!
Remember above all, you aren't at fault and you should not be put out by this. And if you are, insist you are compensated for it.
Rightly or wrongly, it is a case that the one who kicks off the most tends to get what they want when it comes to motor claims.
PS, thanks for finally giving me a topic I can contribute on!
Regards, Tom the estimator.
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I want to know why there is a shark motif on the glove box side on my daily Corsa D?
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Have a look around www.japcars.ruIt's all in Russian so you'll need Google translate and to be methodical when navigating. If you can find it, there is an electronic parts cataloge on it which you can do a vin search on. It may come in handy for you to cross reference the part numbers of the different rear axle variants and for viewing assembly diagrams.
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Feb 15, 2018 23:20:01 GMT
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Plenty of oof in this thread, thanks for sharing! You know you're true a car enthusiast when you have colour coded wishbones. I had the voice of George Takei I'm my mind saying 'OHH MYYY' at the sight of that!
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I really rate my DeWalt 1/2in battery gun. In the real world it will do up to about 350Nm which is plenty. The only thing I ever found that I disliked was how long in the body it was but you can ignore that as they now make a stubby version which is great for getting suspension undone inside the confines of the wheel house! Batteries last ages and charge from empty to full in around 2 hours. Cost me about 300 quid ex demo from the mac man iirc..
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Nov 17, 2017 22:23:58 GMT
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If you can get access to trade products then get your hands on some lord fusor 142/143. It's really flexible but extremely tough, plus it doubles as a cosmetic filler and sands to really nice feather edge. Use in conjunction with the waterborne cleaner and cloth mesh for lifetime repairs cures hard in 5 mins and can be sanded after 15. As said already; Cut out your crack with a hacksaw and drill the ends to stop it spreading and key the front and back of the repair area with 80grit on a DA. Be sure to allow enough room for meshing either side of the split. Apply your adhesive to the back of the crack and then to the adjacent mesh area. lay your mesh down and apply a second layer of adhesive on top to sandwich the mesh into the glue and hold in place until cured and finish the repair on the outside as normal with a skim of filler or the same adhesive if suitable.
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Most modern fords allow the removal of the headlamps without having to take the bumper off first so you don't need six elbows to change bulbs - just a large flat blade or a T30 torx driver.
From memory: all the focus', fiesta mk6 onwards, mk3 Mondeo onwards, all variants of the C-max and S-max, the later (mk3?)non-Sharan galaxy and the Kuga. The Mk7 fiesta has a small clip through the top of the bumper too which you will need a small screwdriver/trim fork for and the Mk2 focus and focus C-max have tags behind the lamp which hook on to the front panel.
More retro oriented: I had a pressure relief valve off a British Rail 'Western' diesel locomotive which wouldn't go back together because the soft brass threads had been damaged. To repair without the use of a tap/die set (which you would struggle to get the correct size for anyway) thread the two halves together as far as they go then back it off 1/4 turn. Give them a moderate smack with a hammer and screw together as far as they go again. Repeat the process until the two components screw together as intended. By striking one half of the assembly, the damaged parts of the thread will be forced back into place by a good bit of thread on the other part. By repeating this over and over as you turn the parts together you planish the dents out of the thread. I learned this from a real old school engineer called Lee at the Players cigarette factory in Nottingham.
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I Had half assumed this, but either is good.. I work in accident repair as a bodyshop estimator so I'm sure there are lots of connections, willing helpers, subcontractors etc at my new place. I'm just loath to ask because I'm the new guy and haven't actually started yet! Don't wanna be a pest before I get there..
Didn't manage to speak to anyone at the motor registration office.
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I spoke to the Fonthill NCT centre (which will be my local) who advised that the vehicle cannot be registered without taking it to the station for inspection. They said that it can be in the country as an unregistered vehicle until such time as it becomes roadworthy but I'm not keen on having an unregistered car. I like to make sure I'm complying with the relevant regulations (as much as I can given the circumstances). They also gave me the number for the motor registration office so I will speak to them at lunch.
I'm guessing this is why you advised to make it roughly car shaped and slap it through the test, Gn3dr?
Melle, that sounds like an offer I may not be able to refuse! Thanks kindly!
Shielsy68, thanks for the pointer - I will bare this in mind. The wife wants to go out into the countryside exploring. it helps when you have a destination in mind!
More to come once I've spoken to the motor registration office...
Thanks again!
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That ties in with what I have read so far regarding the import duties. We only bought the corsa a couple of weeks ago because it's cheaper to tax and insure than the previous daily would have been post export so i'm expecting to pay 300 euros or thereabouts for that anyway.. that said, I had read on the ncts.ie website that you can apply for reduced import duty if you are moving with the car rather than just buying/selling from abroad? The big jobs on the Capri still to tackle include: make a new piece of front valance so there's something to bolt the wing to, weld up the A4 sized hole in the NSF footwell, buy and fit an exhaust and replace the core plug in the back of the cylinder head so it will hold coolant (engine out, head off or cut a hole in the bulkhead job!).
In other words, I think I will struggle to drive it to and around the NCT yard!
*edit* fwiw: I have owned the capri since 2007.
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Hi all I am moving to Ireland next week and I'm taking the daily Corsa D (boo!) and my beloved, but not-by-a-long-way finished Capri with me. As I will not be returning to the UK in the foreseeable future, both vehicles are going to be exported and re-registered in the emerald isle. I have researched the import process and it goes roughly like this: vehicle arrives in Ireland make appointment with NCT testing station within 7 days to establish identity, engine capacity, number of doors etc. provide V5C etc and prove ownership get NCT certificate (Irish MOT) pay applicable import duties. apply for plates and purchase from NCT centre or local motor factors. tax and drive! All straight forwards enough if the vehicle is roadworthy . However my Capri is currently mid restoration and a long way from being roadworthy (SORN)! My question is: how do I register the vehicle if it is a non-runner and unable to get to a NCT test, let alone pass the test? Does it just become an unregistered object with 4 wheels not subject to road legislation, left like so, until such time as I can make it through an NCT? This also leads me to my other question of; RR'ers of ROI - who and where are you, and what do you drive! Any and all help will be very much appreciated! Tom Pics for penance!!
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Jul 28, 2017 19:19:47 GMT
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Go on amazon and buy a pot of O'keefes working hands cream. I used to get dermatitis from panel beating and I recommended it to most of my colleagues. I wore barrier cream but it makes your hands tacky so the filler dust clings to them. Trouble is that nitrile gloves stop you from being able to feel your filler repair shape properly. I would get through a pot of O'keefes every couple of months with multiple applications a day but a little really does go a long way. For best results, wash hands as normal and dab until nearly dry and use the remaining water to thin the cream to get an even application as it is a bit waxy in texture.
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As the title suggests - usable condition but has the usual splitting in the top. Moving abroad so it needs gone in the next 3 weeks! Don't want to skip it but I can't take it with me! Collection from Nottingham only, haven't got time to post!
Call or text - 07392395983 Tom
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www.brownbrothers.com/products/texture-coating-0My last place used this stuff for textured bumper repairs. Use it to replicate the grain of the component then paint to colour. A brief rundown for repairing damaged bumpers: Clean the area to be repaired. Heat with the hot air gun, making sure to heat the areas around the dent. you will notice with most bumpers that the plastic goes slightly shiny when it gets to the right temperature for reshaping. Using a combination of hammers and dollies, massage the dents out the bumper. When the bumper is the right shape, leave to cool. Sand the repair area with 180 grit to remove heavy scratches or slight high/low spots then progress to 240, 320 and 500 for finishing. From here you can prime and paint or apply texture coating as above. It's worth mentioning that most European stuff should have the plastic type stamped into it somewhere on the inside of the part. You will see something like PP EPDM T20 which means the bumper is made of a polypropylene and ethylene propylene diene monomer mix with a 20% talc content for bulking out the raw materials at production. Less talc means a more malleable plastic making them quite forgiving during repairs. If I could post pictures with my cackberry, I would. Have fun with your repairs! And remember, if it goes pear-shaped, you can remove all the texture and just matt black it and still get similar results
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Was that WA Hatfields just off central avenue? You could make decent money with a premises and location like that..
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Feb 27, 2017 18:35:52 GMT
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Haven't a clue!
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Feb 22, 2017 22:10:11 GMT
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propertylink.estatesgazette.com/property-details/6211841-unit-2-humber-works-humber-road-beeston-nottingham-ng9-2etAfter a fair bit of scouting around, this is about the best in terms of cost vs space/facilities on offer. I don't know about anyone else but my budget for workspace is about £100pcm. If there were any painters willing to go in on it then it could be viable as I'm a panel tech/estimator. You would only need a couple of jobs to make enough pocket money to cover the rent, the rest is pocket money for retro goodness! Otherwise it's a case of a dozen guys with similar budgets which isn't a realistic or stable option. But like I said, this is the best thing I have found!
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Hey shadow
What areas are you looking at for a lock up/workspace? I'm currently in the middle of moving to long eaton (and losing my storage in the process) My boss has agreed to store my Capri at work while I get it roadworthy in my spare time but once it's on the road i'm gonna need storage. I'll post back here if I find anything that's not astronomically expensive but it's slim pickings round beeston, chilwell, long eaton etc
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Jun 30, 2014 12:55:56 GMT
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You have pm!
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