|
|
Mar 21, 2011 10:49:04 GMT
|
Haha it's good fun isn't it dude?! just been doin laps of my back garden - dodgy! Ok so I'm trying to wire the switch in properly I'm very close but it's not quite right. I've tried a few combinations but now I'm a bit confused because one switch operates two things at the moment. It's the closest to being right I've got it so far: Headlight off works, Headlight dipped works but operates horn simultaneously, Headlight main works, Horn button is kill switch, Killswitch does nothing. Obviously I have the lights wired in right so I don't want to change those wires, however the horn is coming on with dipped so I'm not sure where I need to go from here? Here is the layout right now And the top for comparison Next to switch top with killswitch on the side One combination of wires saw the horn and killswitch work correctly but the lights not work properly. Now the lights work apart from the dipped/horn problem and the horn and killswitch don't. Up to now it's just been the wrong button has operated the wrong thing so I've been swapping them about until now where ive got one button operating two things do I'm not sure what to do now? On a positive I've developed a new starting method that works well - unless I'm tired after starting it 10 times in a row and can't hold the clutch lever tight enough! I'll upload the vid when it's on YouTube
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Mar 21, 2011 10:54:03 GMT
|
Didn't spot your post retrowagen, I've not got a decomp anymore as the new head didn't accommodate it - I think I'm developing a good method to starting it - needs more practise but I think its the way forward!
Anyone have any suggestions for my switch wiring?
|
|
|
|
|
|
Mar 21, 2011 11:26:59 GMT
|
haha thats a "different" way of starting it.
As for the switch. Try trimming the wires down a little so they don't poke out the top of the clamps like that. Might be that your getting one brushing against the horn switch or somthing all the time. I.E earthing. Just put enough inside the clamp that the screw holds it and thats all. Also make sure none of the wire is touching the handlebar on the underside....
That was my first thought when you said that the horn comes on. Might just be one wire touching somthing it shouldnt..
|
|
|
|
|
|
Mar 21, 2011 11:32:48 GMT
|
Oh and another thing i meant to ask you. Did you search on mopedarmy for the dmp 70 kit? Supposedly a bit of porting makes them alot better. People saying without it they 4 stroke in the midrange.. Also if you want to get the comp down a little use another headgasket... Seems to be the way. Personally id probably do it anyway. Just because people keep saying those heads can make contact with the piston. As soon as that base gasket goes a bit soft it might come down enough to do so
|
|
|
|
|
|
Mar 21, 2011 11:47:50 GMT
|
The switch functions without the case on the top and the light still simultaneously operates the horn? It's a bit rough and ready under there at the mo as I'm unsure what goes where so haven't tidied it up yet or pushed the wires all the way through but I will do when I get the combo right! Bit confused really - wonder if this switch is just not compatible with my setup?
Oo err - didn't know bout the possibility of Piston touching head - dunno - at the moment it seems really smooth and progressive and runs really well so I'm tempted leave it as is for now and keep an eye on it...
|
|
|
|
G A R'goyle
Part of things
Bad to the bones Senior citzien
Posts: 115
|
|
Mar 21, 2011 12:56:13 GMT
|
This is a Big guess about you switch What confuses me is that you have a tail light cable up there How many from the magneto? i have four and mine is older than yours Turning to kick start? everything lever axle sprocket spring is in the cover, so it might be a chance that it fits to a peddler. I will try to get a photo
|
|
|
|
|
|
Mar 21, 2011 12:57:32 GMT
|
Mine has the tail light cable up there too.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Mar 21, 2011 18:37:41 GMT
|
I'll have a look in a but how many from magneto, thanks for the info - I'm confused why one of the headlight switches would operate the light properly but also the horn at the same time? None of the copper wires are bridging or earthing on the case etc.. If it was just that the horn and a light were swapped I could switch em over but as it's working two things I'm flumoxed!
Retrowagen is my actual switch loads different to yours?
|
|
|
|
|
|
Mar 21, 2011 18:50:26 GMT
|
Here's a pic from beforei i cleaned everything showing the wires at the block etc.. Make any sense? Ordered my new number plate and fitted my foam throttle grip
|
|
|
|
|
|
Mar 21, 2011 19:16:04 GMT
|
yep your block looks right... the yellow and the striped one are from the lighting and aux lighting coils. The striped one basically backs up the yellow one. The white is for the rear light, and the other one shud be the cutout one....
As for the switch. Yep.. very different. annoyingly...
|
|
|
|
|
G A R'goyle
Part of things
Bad to the bones Senior citzien
Posts: 115
|
|
Mar 21, 2011 19:31:37 GMT
|
Here's a pic from before I cleaned everything showing the wires at the block etc.. Make any sense? Yes, yellow is main power black is kill the grey/red one power to horn (i think it's that way) the grey is tail light it looks like a power stab on that cable (top on pic) headlight has connectors outside the house? That setup feels odd to me, maxi-sre has extra coils for tail and brake light
|
|
|
|
|
|
Mar 21, 2011 20:37:02 GMT
|
Hmmm - I'm wondering if this switch is no use? Perhaps I should have a go at fixing the old one instead...
|
|
|
|
|
|
Mar 21, 2011 20:43:50 GMT
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Mar 21, 2011 21:34:03 GMT
|
|
|
|
|
G A R'goyle
Part of things
Bad to the bones Senior citzien
Posts: 115
|
|
Mar 21, 2011 22:05:46 GMT
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Mar 22, 2011 19:27:22 GMT
|
Any more updates ? lol.... Havnt been able to touch mine for the last two days
|
|
|
|
|
|
Mar 22, 2011 20:37:58 GMT
|
Well, I've emailed the chap I bought the switch from for some advice.. I also took it outside this evening, turned petrol tap, choke down, few presses of the primer and first quarter pull on the wheel and it fired up nicely! Happy with how it runs and starts now - brakes although no slack still don't have much bite for some reason? Probs need using I guess! Plate should be here on thursday I think. Anyone know the score on the CBT etc? I know that if you do the basic CBT you need to put an L plate on, is there a way in which I wouldn't have to put it on? Or do you have to take a full bike test with gears etc to do that? I really can't wait to ride it properly! I was so tempted to whizz up the road again before but I resisted!
|
|
|
|
dungbug
Posted a lot
'Ooligan!
Posts: 2,852
|
|
Mar 22, 2011 21:08:35 GMT
|
You'' need an L plate until you've passed either the 'Light Bike' test or done the DAS.
|
|
Past: 13 VW Beetles from 1967 - 1974 Bay Window Campers (1973 & 1974) Mini's (1992 Cooper lookalike & 1984 '25 Anniversary) MK2 Polo Coupe S (1984 & 1986) MK2 Polo Breadvan (1981 & 1984) MK4 Escort (1989) MK2 Granada Based Hearse (seriously) Fiat Uno 60S (1986) Punto 60S (1998) Cinq (1997) 1998 Yamaha YZF600R Thundercat 2003 Ford KA
Current: 2004 Ford Focus (barely alive)
|
|
Russ
Part of things
Posts: 372
|
|
Mar 22, 2011 21:16:30 GMT
|
I need to do a CBT aswell, and from what i've read, you would need to take a basic CBT and have an L plate on all the time, but becasue you've passed your car test, the CBT never runs out.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Mar 22, 2011 21:31:57 GMT
|
Its cbt first, which lasts two years and you need l plates, within those two years if you want to carry on (without l plates) then you need to do your restricted licence.
Two parts to this are A1 and A2, A1 is a carpark test around cones, the examiner asks you to perform manouvers such as swerve, figure of 8, emergency stop etc.
A2 is a road ride where your followed and observed.
Once you complete this you can ride any bike that is 33bhp or below, or any bike restricted to 33bhp.
If your over 21 and want an unrestricted licence, you do a extended access test (no idea what this entails) and that allows you to ride anything once passed.
|
|
|
|
|