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Jul 28, 2010 23:32:02 GMT
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I'm looking at an 80s mini shell. It's been welded all up so it's sound, bulkhead back. The front metal inner wing type pieces need welded, and it needs A panels, wings, front slam/valance. Doors, glass, steering rack/column, boot all there. So what it needs: Engine, front suspension (figure a Metro would be able to provide all of this?) Bonnet, A pillar panels, wings, front valance - need to price these bits Rear suspension/axle Wheels Interior, clocks and a set of buckets will sort this. Tell me how financially ruined this will make me, or can I put a Mini on the road for cheap? To do it cheap I'll paint it myself and not trim the interior out beyond necessities. and end up with...
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Davenger
Club Retro Rides Member
It's only metal
Posts: 7,272
Club RR Member Number: 140
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Jul 28, 2010 23:52:48 GMT
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Your best bet is to buy a rotten donor car for all the mechanical bits you need, otherwise it will bankrupt you. Metro suspension is completely different, so it will be useless to you. As for the wings A panels and front panel, pattern panels can be bought, but can be a lot of work to make them fit properly. Genuine panels will cost more, but ultimately save time and give a better fit and finish. And fingers crossed, the bonnet from your donor vehicle will be usable.
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Jul 28, 2010 23:57:19 GMT
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you'll be able to find anything you need at any mini show with a decent auto jumble for very cheap, mini in the park at santa pod is the next one I think. an engine would be between £50-£400 roughly going from 998 to metro turbo judging by what i've seen at shows
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^ I live in Northern Ireland. The very fact I found anything with a logbook under ten million pounds is amazing enough, never mind finding a mechanical donor! Gotta think outside the box here... even the Metro is a lucky find.
The metro brakes are a common upgrade though? surely it mustn't be a huge leap away from the stub axles on the mini, so I can fit all that too? And then what, change the shocks if they're not the same?
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OK. Lets set a target. Quick search sees that I can get a MOTd one of the 80s/90s for about 2k, or £1500ish if I'm lucky will grab me one needing MOT but complete needing little work. Let's see if I can complete this on a £500 budget (after buying the shell).
I've found a set of Dunlop wheels for £50 I've found a 998 engine for £40 (still fancy the metro idea though...) I can soon rustle up a couple of bucket seats and steering wheel cheap enough So get me a new loom (just in case) and suspension front and back, rear subframe and panels for £300? Ebay seems to support this notion...if I can convince a friendly RRer to collect and wrap for my courier...
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Kyle67
Part of things
Posts: 554
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Ok, for a start does it come with front subframe? That would be a good starting point, as would be a good S/H rear to get it rolling. Mini panels aren't as cheap as they used to be, so it may be worth you going the secondhand flip front route as you are on a budget. The dunlops, are they 10's or 12's? 10's you're going to be limited on brake choice to drums with your budget. 12's and upwards you can use the metro 4 pots and discs. It fits as a whole hub assembly to the mini top and bottom arms, but you'll need the early pre 84 metro balljoints to fit them though and a t piece to take the single mini line to the metro twin brake lines. You really need to find a damaged or totally rotted donor car, people break good mini's just because they are worth so much in parts. Look on ebay and see how many people selling good parts are actually selling the matching good shell too.
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craig1010cc
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,998
Club RR Member Number: 35
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Just how bare is the shell? if it is just the shell and nothing else then you are going to need brake/clutch matsers, pedal box, brake lines.... If you can find a metro donor, all that is really transferable is Engine/Box/carb calipers/discs/drive flanges/outer CV's (but then you'll need to run 12's or bigger) you could reuse and adapt the wiring loom (a new mini one is about £150) exhaust system fron hubs (but you need the earlier ball joints and neggy camber bottom arms) The driveshafts and gearlinkage isn't transferable A good complete rear subby with good brakes and radius arms will normally set you back £100-150. Panel wise, I picked up 2 new wings from SC for £50 +P&P, front panel was about £40 and a pair of A panels are about £15. A 2nd hand bonnet should set you back £10-20. I would get on to www.miniresource.com as that is based in Ireland and try and get a rotten one. There is still alot that you may have to replace, but having to source nuts/bolts and brackets can end up costing a fourtune. If you are going to run a 998 and want to use 10" wheels on a tight budget, go for drums on the front as they will be up to the job as long as you keep them serviced and adjusted up. But good luck, there are plenty of us over this side of the water that will be willing to help where possible.
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I have a mini front subframe going spare, infact its on my list to be weighed in. its 1992 vintage and good condition if you want it
also, some rear alloy suspension cones if of use?
matt (brum)
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you also wouldn't want to use metro front hubs unless you fit completely adjustable front suspension. the hubs are different to mini ones (IIRC its the ackerman angles). also the steering arms are longer which mucks it up too.
using metro brakes, you normaly just use the calipers, drive flange and discs and a braided hose conversion kit is about £30 IIRC. you'ed need 12" wheels too.
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Davenger
Club Retro Rides Member
It's only metal
Posts: 7,272
Club RR Member Number: 140
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Jul 29, 2010 10:31:15 GMT
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Don't the brakes have to be from a pre 84 metro to fit a mini?
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Jul 29, 2010 11:06:00 GMT
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Don't the brakes have to be from a pre 84 metro to fit a mini? front brakes (ie discs, drive flange and caliper) from any a-series metro will fit - hub design and balljoints changed during metro production but its advised that no metro hub is used (but "would" work"). metro drive shafts are too long. all metros have 4pot calipers - earlier povo spec were non-vented. turbos, mg's, vans and all later ones were vented so you have to make sure the calipers match the discs. metro non-vented calipers will work with mini 8.4" discs.
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Davenger
Club Retro Rides Member
It's only metal
Posts: 7,272
Club RR Member Number: 140
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Jul 29, 2010 11:28:31 GMT
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Depends what you're converting from. If it's a conversion from drums, you need ther pre 84, later metro hub assemblies have different geometries and wont fit
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Jul 29, 2010 13:19:27 GMT
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Davenger
Club Retro Rides Member
It's only metal
Posts: 7,272
Club RR Member Number: 140
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Jul 29, 2010 17:02:15 GMT
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If you read it, it only says not to use metro steering arms. And that it's pre 84 ones you want. It was common practise for years, before the number of minis with 8.4 inch disks became so plentiful.
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Last Edit: Jul 29, 2010 17:08:45 GMT by Davenger
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Jul 29, 2010 17:54:02 GMT
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Nice, a Britax look-a-like.
I would go for a 90s Mini with 1300 with a lot of rust and no MOT as a donor, in The Netherlands the Metro is rarer then a Mini.
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Click picture for more
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Davenger
Club Retro Rides Member
It's only metal
Posts: 7,272
Club RR Member Number: 140
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Jul 29, 2010 19:28:21 GMT
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Yeah, any mini after mid 1984 will have 8.4 inch disk up front and 1 inch spaced drums on the back. A rusty one shouldn't be that hard to find, it one of the things they do best. 15 years building and repairing minis taught me that ;D
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Jul 29, 2010 20:10:56 GMT
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Done some more digging, matching with what you guys are saying.
I've rethought my Metro idea. Yeah it's not so hot.
The shell is bare with doors and boot etc, it also comes with steering column, rack, pedal box, so not totally bare. Front subframe blasted and painted included.
I would be happy running a 998 and drums, although I may be forced into 13" wheels to match the budget as tyres are easier got (got some already spare) but 10" tyres don't come up s/h
Anything from £50-£150 it seems will buy me a 998 and box in varying condition...
rotten donors are still pretty thin on the ground over here though - but I'm not after concours so i don't mind making brackets out of brute steel and clips out of cable ties lol.
exhaust I can pick up for £30-£50 sort of cash, interior would barely cost anything as standard ones can't be worth much.
Panels are my only concern now really, that and the price of wheels. If i get new panels over here, I'll blow my budget. If I get ebay s/h / nos panels, I have the hassle of convincing friends and comrades to collect and wrap for a courier.
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Jul 29, 2010 22:23:37 GMT
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Could you indicate what you budget is?
If you would buy a donor car buy one that is complete and (rough) running. It willmake live that much easier.
I would invest in 7.5 or 8.4 brakes, it isn't that much expensive. Other option is to go to fiesta brakes.
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Click picture for more
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Davenger
Club Retro Rides Member
It's only metal
Posts: 7,272
Club RR Member Number: 140
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Jul 29, 2010 22:33:11 GMT
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7.5 disks can be expensive compared to 8.4. Fiesta calipers can be used, but may need machining depending on wheel choice
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Jul 29, 2010 22:47:23 GMT
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Could you indicate what you budget is? If you would buy a donor car buy one that is complete and (rough) running. It willmake live that much easier. I would invest in 7.5 or 8.4 brakes, it isn't that much expensive. Other option is to go to fiesta brakes. Fifth post down, £500 i want to build it for (excluding shell and paint) Donor car is NOT an option - £850 is the LOWEST price i can find for a donor-worthy car. Srsly.
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