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Feb 22, 2010 19:50:24 GMT
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It'll be the heater control valve, common failure. Ford stung me £100 to replace it on my wife 05 plate Ka last month, took them just over an hour to do it. Is that's the valve regulating coolant to the heater matrix, often replaced with a "manual" valve? It sounded more to be just the cable, if there is one? It's an early one. Edit: On another note, have anyone shoe-horned a 2.0 zetec into one? My mother's 2.0 mondeo is getting tired...
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Last Edit: Feb 22, 2010 19:52:24 GMT by dude
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Feb 22, 2010 19:56:08 GMT
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Edit: On another note, have anyone shoe-horned a 2.0 zetec into one? My mother's 2.0 mondeo is getting tired... Easy done - Keep the Ka box which handles the power fine. The engine bolts in but needs the drivers side engine mount fabbing. You can buy a bolt on mount for £100 or so. You need to mate the 2.0 downpipe with the Ka exhaust. Wiring wise you need to ideally get a pre PATS ecu and run without the immobiliser, but I've read of people swapping the chip out of the mondeo key into the KA key and transplanting the mondeo immobiliser + ecu into the KA.
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spacekadett
Part of things
F*cking take that Hans Brrix!!
Posts: 830
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Feb 22, 2010 20:00:45 GMT
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Put full sills on two in the last couple of months, neither made it to thier 10th birthday Have a friend who works for Fords warranty people and they regularly approve A pillar repairs, they go rusty that quick! Power steering racks fail (we have one customer who had 3 on theirs), cams and followers wear giving a rough rattle no adjustment will get rid of, rusty plugs that break rather than come undone, pretty much what everyone else has said really. GF has a 57 plate 1.3 Duratec one and she loves it (well she did until the 'approved repairers' made a dogs dinner of mending it. 3 times ) but I'd spend my money on a 1.4 zetec Fester. Always enjoy thrashing round in mums, infact if I could have thought of a reason to keep it, I wouldn't have sold it to her in the first place ;D
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Mechanic's rule #1... If the car works, anything left on the floor after you finished wasn't needed in the first place
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Garry
East Midlands
Posts: 1,722
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Feb 22, 2010 20:51:39 GMT
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Last Edit: Feb 22, 2010 20:53:21 GMT by Garry
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dan
Part of things
Posts: 589
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Feb 22, 2010 22:24:07 GMT
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I agree with pretty much everything that's been posted. I've had a few of them over the years (I keep smashing them up, whoops) and they're brilliant little motors. Over 10 years and 4 Kas I've had a broken spring, a melting leather steering wheel, a heater problem and a sticky door lock and not a lot else. Cheap to run and enjoyable to drive. They're great little cars. Here's a photo of the Axo Dwarf AKA brummagem beast, tarmac teaser. As you can see she's a real head turner
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Last Edit: Feb 22, 2010 22:25:00 GMT by dan
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Her indoors had a later car with the 238mm vented discs - 04 plate KA 1 - no ABS though, just the vented discs.
In my opinion, the reason the brakes are wibblepoo is nothing to do with the efficiency of the oily bits... they have the typical modern Ford braking arrangement with the master cylinder plonked on the passenger side of the bulkhead rather than linked straight to the pedal box.
Mondeos have the same arrangement - stamp on the brakes in a mondeo with the bonnet up, and you will see barely see the master cylinder move at all, do it in a KA, and you'll see it move subtstantially - half the effort of pressing the pedal is going into flexing the bulkhead around, rather than creating hydraulic pressure! Unsuprisingly, the brakes feel more and more spongy the older the car gets, and no amount of disc and pad changing and fluid bleeding will help.
Personally, if I was building a "quick" KA, I would have the dash and sound proofing out & weld reinforcing plates around the master cylinder & linkage points to stop the flexing before I decided to uprate anything else.
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