Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,784
Club RR Member Number: 34
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ford ka reliabilty/problemsDez
@dez
Club Retro Rides Member 34
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Feb 21, 2010 20:24:26 GMT
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the problem i encountered with a ka, is of youre as tall as me (6'3" and a bit) its not phyisically possible to fit in one and be able to drive it, even with the steering column all the way up and the seat all the way back. i had a shifter/knee/steering wheel interface problem going on when trying to change gear that was so bad i gave up after about 3 miles around town.........
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Feb 21, 2010 21:05:31 GMT
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SWMBO had an Endura-powered Ka1 for a couple of years in the late 90's, if you can live with the keep-fit steering and lack of air-con it's definitely the one to go for as 59bhp only goes so far, and not running AC/PAS pumps means more power to the front wheels. That way you can also squeeze 55mpg out of them if you drive like a grandad. I know, I managed it.
As has already been said, the handling is amazingly nimble, just about as close as you'll get to the modern equivalent of a Mini. Standard steels/155's mean not too much grip to spoil the fun, you can make one dance if you've got the ability behind the wheel. I've always maintained that they'd make superb road rally cars.
Downsides? Rot. Upsides? Everything else. Great cheapo A>B fuss-free transport, no more and no less. One of the things I'm looking at for whan the Xantia finally dies.
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Feb 21, 2010 21:19:18 GMT
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My wife had a Ka, it started to rust on the sills and chassis rail but other wise was relaible. Great fun to drive and 45 mpg. Now she has a Street Ka and 35 mpg, coilpack has just needed doing and a wheel bearing plus hub assembly. I have seen many with rust around the filler pipe. Handling on the thing is very good. It's a shame its so girly because I really like driving it.
A future classic if they don't all rot away.
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Feb 21, 2010 21:23:40 GMT
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Oh, when my mum finally gets rid of her Ka, I've called dibs on it. Not because I need a car, but I know it will drive forever and not ask stupid questions of me.
Its rusty, dinted and generally a bit ropey and leaks oil, but in 6 years it's had a set of shocks and springs (Shocks were halfway worn, springs fine, but I got a GMAXkit from work cheap) - £80 a pair of bottom arms, £30 a coilpack, £20 a set of plugs and leads £30 disks and pads. £30 4 cheap tyres - £80 3x oil and filters - £90
The only "Surprise" item is the coilpack. It's wanted for less in 6 years than any car I've ever owned has wanted for in about 2 months.
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Feb 22, 2010 11:09:14 GMT
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Don't be tempted by cheapo pattern bottom arms - I put a 30 squid set on SWMBO's KA and they went again in 6 months - I got the right ones from ford (where she works, so they were actually quite cheap!) and they were still in good condition when she stacked it 20k later.
Hers was a OHC one and went well for a little box. Very like a modern version of a 1.3 or 1.4 mk1/2 Fiesta to drive IMO - light and simple, prone to rot, painted steel bits on the interior, thrashy engine, curse word spec, curse word brakes, safe but entertaining handling.
If it's an early one on 155's then a swap to 165/65/13 (standard fit on later cars) will make it feel a bit more stable - beware of the grot - look everywhere carefully, hers was even bubbling a bit on the roof by 4 years old. Heater controls break, they stick on hot or cold, but the rest is fairly durable.
*edit* forgot to add 2 important things: Check the front brake flexis on early cars - the mounting point to the strut was moved on later ones, on the early cars they can rub & fail suddenly, most unpleasant!
Also, if you get one with higher miles & history and it's had a clutch, make sure on the receipt that they had the slave cylinder changed at the same time as they are internal & prone to failing - labour cost for changing one will be similar to doing a whole clutch, so beware tightwad service history!
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Last Edit: Feb 22, 2010 11:14:52 GMT by wilko
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Feb 22, 2010 12:03:49 GMT
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My wife used to have one as her daily - was a hand me down from her mother who'd had it from brand new, on a 96 P plate. Boggo spec, no PAS or air or leccy windows, had the Valencia (Kent) engine in it and it went pretty well for a little box. The handling was very entertaining, much better to drive than the shonky polo we replaced it with.
We got rid of it in 08, and considering it was 12 years old, and had had everything my missus and her mother could chuck at it, it was in remarkably good nick. It had a few bubbly bits round the rear arches but that's pretty much it.
I was talking to the wife about it the other day, and although she's not a car buff she said she'd definitely have another
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1967 Morris Traveller 1971 Series IIA Land Rover 1991 Golf GL 4+e 1992 Corrado G60 1986 E28 BMW 528i
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mercmad
Posted a lot
Flush Hard,it's a long way to McDonalds.
Posts: 1,740
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Feb 22, 2010 12:52:22 GMT
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Kent engine..... Hmmmm that fact alone surely opens up a whole world of cheap used speed gear ...cosworth A6 cam ? Ka's down here have aircon but do you need it in the UK? ;D ;D
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Many years ago I changed my driving style to cope with rising fuel prices; I have now reached the stage where I am contemplating keeping my eyes shut in order to lower wind resistance.
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Colin
Part of things
Posts: 239
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Feb 22, 2010 13:20:39 GMT
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bottom UJ on the steering rack of Swmbos seized up. apparently a common fault!
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Feb 22, 2010 13:51:33 GMT
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SWMBO wanted one a while back, looked at many, tbh in most cases the rust turned us away before we even got to the mechanicals. (we got a Honda in the end) I only skimmed over thread but I'm sure it's all been said before, Rust, Rattly OHV engines, valve gear or worn cam tend to have a life expectancy of no more than 100k miles (not saying they wont go over this) Heard of the siezed sparkplug thing too often too. don't let it put ya off tho! Get a good one, and they're fecking supurb!
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Feb 22, 2010 13:52:31 GMT
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My Mum has had one a few years now, other than servicing the only money spent on it was part of the brake linkage to the master cylinder/servo causing a leak. I had a spell in it when learning, it was realy nippy round town and I'm sure would make a great first car. Just get the best one you can.
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wanted, 25th hour. Required daily, cash waiting
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Feb 22, 2010 17:05:28 GMT
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My girlfriend has one on a 51 plate with the OHV engine, owned for about 3 years now. From what she told me (Only been together 4 months), its been very trouble free, only needing MOT'ing and wear and tear items.
I never used to like them but after going in it its just a good run about. Cheap to run and easy to drive. Certinatley rather have one over a 106/Saxo etc etc. Pedal spacing is far generous and gearbox is much better for a start!
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1992 Sierra XR4x4
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Feb 22, 2010 17:40:43 GMT
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Kas are ace, I recommend them to everyone who wants a "cheap car that gets them about" They are cheap, reliable, easy to fix but rusty. Basically a retro car in a new cars skin (but with rust) They go through front wishbones approx every 15k/20k if they are cheap replacements, but they are dead easy to swap, and they tend to snap rear springs too. cheap wishbones are £30 a pair, and springs the same. I fitted 4 new springs, shocks and 2 wishbones to my mums Ka in about an hour. Despite not being very fast, they are a load of fun to drive - The steering is over light, and they aim for understeer, but they are infinitely chuckable and don't threaten oversteer like my 106 does. My mum has one, and I borrowed it for 3 months during my mini purchasing and blowing up incident (lets not speak of this) and was genuinely disappointed when the insurance ran out. Nippy up to about 50, and they don't have a lot of punch after that but it's not too bad. They are fine on the motorway, and they will do 85/90 all day without complaint. Top is about 110 indicated. Totally agree with this - same situation, I have a 106 and my ma has a ka. I've had some scares in the ka though, they're very nippy to beat around a back road, but the brakes are pure dung. More close calls in that than my peugeot, scirocco and capris put together, and I barely ever drive it.
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craig1010cc
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,998
Club RR Member Number: 35
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ford ka reliabilty/problemscraig1010cc
@craig1010cc
Club Retro Rides Member 35
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Feb 22, 2010 17:59:42 GMT
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The brakes on the later ones are alot better (vented 240mm discs with ABS) but the calipers are sh*te design with the sliders being just a cast finished surface and clearly hadn't seen any cooper grease from ford in the 4 previous services I'm 6ft and 18 stone and fit in one fine (even had 4 adults and weekends wedding luggage in the old one for a 200 mile trip ). And when your NCB builds up, you can stick a 2.0 Ztec in nice and easy (have planned that swap out in my head, with a set of coilies wound right down and running on a set of 13x8 )
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Feb 22, 2010 18:16:40 GMT
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heater controls can pack in,the rust and steering rack issues as mentioned and if the plugs haven't been changed in a year or so then good luck on getting them out! what about a 1.1 cinq or seicento? My grandmother gave me a call the other day, the heater control doesn't work anymore in her ka, "it feels like it isn't connected" have any idea what i'll look for when i'll go look at it? Fun little cars to drive thou, like a go cart. I'm 6'3" and i fit. Barely.
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Feb 22, 2010 18:35:19 GMT
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heater controls can pack in,the rust and steering rack issues as mentioned and if the plugs haven't been changed in a year or so then good luck on getting them out! what about a 1.1 cinq or seicento? My grandmother gave me a call the other day, the heater control doesn't work anymore in her ka, "it feels like it isn't connected" have any idea what i'll look for when i'll go look at it? Fun little cars to drive thou, like a go cart. I'm 6'3" and I fit. Barely. I know heater trouble is common on Fiesta's of this age, and normally its the heater valve seizing/playing up, or the cable. If the Ka has one fitted, not sure. ;D
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1992 Sierra XR4x4
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craig1010cc
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,998
Club RR Member Number: 35
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ford ka reliabilty/problemscraig1010cc
@craig1010cc
Club Retro Rides Member 35
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Feb 22, 2010 18:36:51 GMT
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It'll be the heater control valve, common failure. Ford stung me £100 to replace it on my wife 05 plate Ka last month, took them just over an hour to do it.
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Feb 22, 2010 19:09:07 GMT
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Personally I'd go for a VW Lupo instead , might cost a little more but it'll likely last a helluva lot longer and IMO you shouldn't need to worry about things like rust on what isn't really a very old car . The Seat Arosa version is even cheaper . ( I am hopelessly biased though as I've been using one as a daily for the last couple of years )
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Last Edit: Feb 22, 2010 19:09:57 GMT by gotwood
You've been telling me you were a genius since you were seventeen ... in all the time I've known you I still don't know what you mean !
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Ads 19
Posted a lot
My old r19
Posts: 1,351
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Feb 22, 2010 19:24:51 GMT
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Lupo and arosa, maybe not much better. they suffer with the gearbox problems that affect the ibiza and polo. 1.0l is better as less grunt so wont pack in. 1.2s last about 80k, the 1.4s lucky if 60k.
I love the Vag cars but these can be a pain. some reason the very early arosas AEX engine are miles better and no problems to report.
Many people advertise rebuilt gearboxes, but they are no better than the originals. And obviously replacements from scrappers are rarely cheap due to demand and will have questionable life left in them. I have 4 blown gearboxes in my scrap bin atm.
Ka is a good car if you buy a good one, plus tuning potential later down lie, but could get good mk3/4 fez instead, so long as poverty model will be pretty solid. Rs kit causes rust on mk3s
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Feb 22, 2010 19:34:33 GMT
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the problem I encountered with a ka, is of youre as tall as me (6'3" and a bit) its not phyisically possible to fit in one and be able to drive it, even with the steering column all the way up and the seat all the way back. I had a shifter/knee/steering wheel interface problem going on when trying to change gear that was so bad I gave up after about 3 miles around town......... Well I'm 6ft4 and a bit and I managed to drive my GFs Ka no problem . Granted , bit of a leg-killer on a long trip but not a huge problem around the doors. She had hers for about 6-7 years and I found it to be a tough , dependable little car. The things I remember replacing on it in all that time were a pair of front springs , centre and rear exhaust , pads , discs , calipers , couple of wheel cylinders etc etc , pretty much run of the mill stuff I'd have thought . Ours was never garaged so yeah there were a couple of spots of rust popping through when we eventually got shot but it was hardly falling apart.. I thought it was great fun , not fast at all but a laugh round the bends.
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Feb 22, 2010 19:47:01 GMT
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See, I had a Lupo. it was a decent car, but took some upkeep.
It was at 100k, but my problems were the same as the forums saw on cars of a LOT less mileage.
The clutch pedal end snaps off the pedal box and leaves you stranded. Nightmare job (Dash out, thousands of bits of plastic to come out first) New pedalbox is £38 or so, but it took me a full day of cutting my arms to shreds bent double up trying to get a fiddly clip off and generally getting frustrated. I've seen these go on cars from 20k to 100k. The new design is supposedly stronger, but they still crack.
The 1.0s are really really gutless (A lot slower than the ka) but the 1.4s and sport are better. 1.4s is 75bhp,, 1.4 sport 100.
Unfortunately, the 1.4 engines are very weak. Poor grading of piston/bore sizes means you get epic piston slap when the rings wear a little. At first this just sounds curse word, but it eventually scores the bore and will ruin the engine. The alloy crankcases are considered scrap if you remove the crank because they are set up stressed or something. Apparently line boring can salvage them in some cases. I've heard lupos at 65k need recon engines because of this.
The stem seals are also a common problem - jolly pain in the backside of a job (head off, and awful cambelt setup to contend with). These tend to last 7 years before causing the car to smoke on overrun, killing the o2 sensor and cat. Eventually they get bad enough to foul the plugs. This seems to be mainly an age thing, with very low mileage cars suffering at about the same rate as higher ones - Even the newer lupos are falling into this category.
The gearboxes are really very very weak too. Mine was OK but I've heard horror stories.
Brakes? pants. Stop you a few times, but any hard use literally sets them on fire (I drive hard, but went through 4 sets of disks and pads in as many months) I'm not sure why though - 238mm vented disks should have been enough, but even with 75hp I glazed them over regularly if driving a bit enthusiastically.
Mechanical parts are very expensive 2nd hand - £400+ for a 1.4 engine. Same for a gearbox. Pay another £100 if you are buying off a trader and want a warranty. A ka engine will be about £50-100, and gearbox perhaps £150 at most.
A ka will cost you half as much to buy, half as much to run and be faster than a 1.0 Lupo.
The Lupo is a more refined car than a ka and looks better/gets you into the "cool" vw scene, but if money is tight go for the Ka all day long.
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Last Edit: Feb 22, 2010 19:52:55 GMT by cobblers
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