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the pivot point will be the centre of the wheels. a cheap way to set up the nose weight is to place a set of bathroom scales under the hitch so as you build you can check the balance and move bits about as required but if it is still nose heavy mount balast at the back of the chassis ttfn glenn Thanks Glen, plan is to initially mock it up with bits like gas bottle , cooker, water drum etc precariously balanced all over the mock up to establish where to fix the box. |
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Got the trailer, and the wheels on there are manky, also 13 inch. Measuring across the hub centre, between 2 nuts gives me 140mm or thereabouts. It is an AL-KO chassis, and vintage is 1981 according to the chassis plate. I have been offered by a member on here for a decent price , some adaptors made up to take it away from where it is now, to maybe something a bit more common. I have a spare set of 4 4x100 5spoke alloys, 2 with very good tyres IIRC, which are 100% bland. What is out there in 4x140 that may be nicer than what I have ? I may even contemplate moon discs, nice plastic hubcaps etc in the mean time. Or what can I do with the bland ones ? Matt/satin black or paint is the only option, the shape does not lend itself to detailed paint application. Here is a pic of the offending items, and the Blandness. (really not much in the way of redeeming features there)  |
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Last Edit: Dec 7, 2010 21:27:18 GMT by grizz
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Hey Mate, I 'think' some pug 505's and old subaru's (think the pick ups) were 4x140 should give you some searching fodder. I'm eagerly awaiting this builds completion!
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Daily: Spazda Mx5
'A52's Fastest steak eater 2010'
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Hey Mate, I 'think' some pug 505's and old subaru's (think the pick ups) were 4x140 should give you some searching fodder. I'm eagerly awaiting this builds completion! LOL !! Yep, I am awaiting the completion too. Thanks for the pointer. |
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93fxdl
Posted a lot
Enter your message here...
Posts: 2,019
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if you can find any how about chrome hub caps on refurbished original wheels but if you go for adaptors i would suggest using the same pcd as the van wheels so if you need it all wheels are interchangeable. As for the bland wheels i cant help you there as that is bland beyond redemption from where i am looking. Another odd idea if you need to ballast the back how about a steel bar as a bumper? later when funds allow with a dip of chrome or possibly wrapping in ally
ttfn glenn
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Mark
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,097
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You're really motoring with this trailer Grizz - good on ya mate.
Watching with interest.
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You're really motoring with this trailer Grizz - good on ya mate. Watching with interest. Thanks mark. Today I took a day off work to wait for the ply and ally sheets to come. Inbetween I did loads of other more homely stuff, like cleaning out the kitchen of all the Transit bus' camping gear that made it into the house, rather than into the garage and various boxes and baskets. The Plywood got here at 11.40am and the ally sheets only got here at about 14.15pm..... so much for waiting about for deliveries. NOW FOR THE CONFESSION. I was a bit surprised at the sheer size and weight of the materials I have got in the garage, which will ultimately be the Grizz-Pod. Thankfully, and amazingly for September, the weather held out and continues to be great. Pics: Neighbours son popped in to see his dad, so took the pic for me.  Sheets of ply in the garage, pics with the ally added did not come out so well. I am going to have to get a spare set of hands to work the 5 x10 sheets till they are up and stable. They are just too much for sensible manipulating, I can move them, but will surely damage them or myself if I try building them. Birch ply has a lovely colour out in the sun too.  Lastly, just before closing up, I dug out a wheel spanner I found in the street once, and cleaned its tip, bent a piece of 8mm mild steel rod into a hook, cut it, Mig welded and ground back a bit, then gave it a quick once over with the rattle can. Now I have a spanner for the wind down stabilizers for when the trailer is parked up. Tomorrow is measure , cut and bolt the tongue together, then I can start building the floor and get the sides measured, drawn and cut.  |
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Last Edit: Dec 7, 2010 21:28:09 GMT by grizz
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Hi mate, just got your post on the T&TTT forum. Mine is the Yaarksha Scavenger. I'm glad to see you are Keeping the costs down and using salvaged items. when i get round to it i will post a few of my build photos to keep you going. Any questions, don't be afraid to ask
Steve
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I don't WANT TO DIE A GROWN UP!
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As i said here are a few build photos, starting with the finished item, just before the Stiff Uper Lip gathering earlier this year    The starting profile mpck up  The hatch frame work  The insulation (needed to stay cool and warm)  The inner bits  The chassis with floor on, 5 coats of Thompson water seal and 2 coats of under seal  The full build can be seen if you click on the link on page 2 of this thread Steve |
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I don't WANT TO DIE A GROWN UP!
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Hi Steve, thanks for the pics and leads.
I did read your whole thread, it was what got me onto Tearjerkers and T&TT's
My biggest concern is succesfully painting and sealing the external ply, and underfloor timbers.
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Loads of coats of water seal, then car body under seal, The first coat i did with a 50:50 mix of underseal and white spirit, left a couple of days then another coat of straight underseal. Ive not had any water seap in yet
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I don't WANT TO DIE A GROWN UP!
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The only thing i wish i had done, Is move the axle nearer the front by about 8 inches, as the nose weight is a bit much. I had to even it out a bit my using a large truck battery instead of a car one
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I don't WANT TO DIE A GROWN UP!
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could you use a rubber membrane for waterproofing
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2001 HONDA CT110 (NOT RCV)
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The trouble with a rubber membrane is that somehow you would have to stick it to the roof under skin, and then stick the ally on top. Unless you only fix the ally around the edges, and allow it to float. The good thing with my way is that non of the fixings ere visible
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I don't WANT TO DIE A GROWN UP!
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wow that's amazing! Look like brand new!
How'd u do that?
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They look brilliant, I will have to remember how to do it next time i fit some reclaimed lights
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I don't WANT TO DIE A GROWN UP!
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HOLY MACKEREL , MARK !!!
That is absolutely awesome !!
I knew it would be good, just not that good.
Thanks a mil mate, sure we will see you and Karen soon enough.
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no probs dude only took about 10mins each to do they are not 100% perfect but they have come up very well . you have a pm  |
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Well, after Mark's contribution to this build, my weekend pales into insignificance. Anyway, Here is what I got up to. Cut the A-Frame/Tongue and redrilled the holes further back on the chassis and remounted, you will see in some of the pics, the width of the difference between the chassis and the A-Frame, probably 20' on each side. I started by bracing the rear end of the chassis which was warped anyway, and pulled it in to make it 59 inches (under 1.5m) as the whole build is driven by the 1.5m ally sheets for the roof. I then cut the excess off - Chuffed at this. I then had to coax the two sides together, first using long bolts to just draw it all together, then undo one at a time and replace the bolts with shorter ones, while holding it all in place with a couple of G-Clamps. Once the lot was done, my next task was to shorten the brake rod, as it was now 18" too long. I also decided not to shorten the A-Frame, as it leaves space for gas bottles or even a "shopper bike" up front. That all done, I brought out the timber and mocked up the cabin on the chassis. I will start building the floor soon. Bought some 120mm self drilling woodscrews today, £15.95 a box of either 50 or 100, mad I know, but suspect they will make life easier, which I do need. CUT !!!  Will go here to move A-Frame back.  Note the mal-allignment, much tightening to do.  Brake rod cut and new thread being cut, seems I lost about 18" in the shortening of the chassis.  Self portrait, thank goodness for timers on cameras.  Mock up for floor on shortened chassis. May still regret position, as the chassis is a heavy jolly pain in the backside.  LASTLY: Nicola and I went to a "Bootfair" today, got loads of stuff, including this little stove for £1, that is not much more than $1 , Bargain I would say, if it works. I have another lovely top quality cooker, and the cooker sink that Oldbus brought me, but this may be the one as it is slimline.  AFTER an hours worth of cleaning.  Thats all for today.... Next step is to draw the side profile up, then transfer to the ply, and cut and sand, then mount. |
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Last Edit: Dec 7, 2010 21:33:36 GMT by grizz
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