93fxdl
Posted a lot
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Posts: 2,019
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Sept 28, 2009 22:25:52 GMT
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stupid ideas from me here, how about teardrop shaped muguards(fenders) copying the profile of the main body with fender skirts so the wheels don't show with the lights "frenched" into them (possibly more at the bottom so the lights are at their original angle) possibly look really cack but its an idea (yes i know stupid ones) i think that with the width of this you will need to have a fog light and also marker lights on the fenders ttfn glenn
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Sept 28, 2009 22:30:34 GMT
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Keep a close eye on that wood... some of the B&Q stuff is a nightmare for warping really badly, he said throwing more skirting boards on the fire. :-(
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Sept 29, 2009 6:43:23 GMT
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Keep a close eye on that wood... some of the B&Q stuff is a nightmare for warping really badly, he said throwing more skirting boards on the fire. :-( Mate, you have no idea.... Their timber is attrocious. BUT.... I am returning everything that cacks up my build as it needs to be decently straight.
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Sept 29, 2009 6:46:57 GMT
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stupid ideas from me here, how about teardrop shaped muguards(fenders) copying the profile of the main body with fender skirts so the wheels don't show with the lights "frenched" into them (possibly more at the bottom so the lights are at their original angle) possibly look really cack but its an idea (yes I know stupid ones) I think that with the width of this you will need to have a fog light and also marker lights on the fenders ttfn glenn Frenched in sounds great, load of work, but worth it. The small lights on top of the mudguards as markers ? Fog lights.... ermmm ? Maybe. Triangles on the rear, no problems. Do not want it too fussy. But safe is good with me .
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Sept 29, 2009 13:39:42 GMT
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stupid ideas from me here, how about teardrop shaped muguards(fenders) copying the profile of the main body with fender skirts so the wheels don't show with the lights "frenched" into them (possibly more at the bottom so the lights are at their original angle) possibly look really cack but its an idea (yes I know stupid ones) I think that with the width of this you will need to have a fog light and also marker lights on the fenders ttfn glenn Frenched in sounds great, load of work, but worth it. The small lights on top of the mudguards as markers ? Fog lights.... ermmm ? Maybe. Triangles on the rear, no problems. Do not want it too fussy. But safe is good with me . i have an old van and (warning this sounds 100 times worse than it looks) got a square numberplate made up then went to tesco and found a baking tray the same size then welded it in the rear door and added a light. instant recessed numberplate! it looks awsome and always gets comments!
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Sept 29, 2009 17:22:14 GMT
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Kris, I used one on a BMW I used to have, as the exhaust used to burn the number plate too, and people think you are a genius.
Frenching in of existing items is a clever way of doing stuff.
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Sept 29, 2009 17:58:25 GMT
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Right, just deleted this post before I posted it, so here goes again. Just a short report today. I slept over at Nicola's place last night, so that I could bring the chassis back here today, as the cars that block the carpark spaces where I sneak through to get into my back yard, only opens at around 6am. The chassis is a tight fit right now, but keep in mind, I will be moving the "A-Frame" toward the axle by almost 2 foot. The rear will also be cut off closer to completion, once I figure points of balance with the trailer loaded. Where the trailer is parked will be the build space, as my garage is at about 80% of capacity, filled with "stuff" Next up today, I went to my "Secret" Council (Municipal) Tip, to scavenge for bits of stuff to use in the build. I have found some awesome stuff there which people just throw away. Today I was looking for some chrome pipes in the steel skip, to use as legs for the kitchen worktop extension I have planned. I found 2 decent lengths, so was pretty pleased. Next up, I found a small portable fridge, which will take about 6 cans of drink. No electrical lead, but I am sure I can sort that, as it is 12 volt and 220 Volt. Even more impressive was a larger , but still small fridge, I suspect from a laboratory, or vaccines clinic with a huge thermostat sticking through a hole in the front door. Unfortunately it is only 220 Volt, and the power cord was cut an inch from the body, but that should pose no challenge. After loading it into the conveniently parked Demo Ford S-Max, I called my mate Dave (Oldbus) in Germany to gloat, he promptly offered to sell me a 3-way (Gas/mains/12 volt) camping fridge for £50 which he had bought in anticipation of the Setra camper bus project he had planned. So now I have a 3 way camping Fridge, cooker and sink landing here on Friday evening , door to door delivery when Dave and one of his sons pop over to fetch the 1938 Rover 16 he has bought. Dang, life is good. LASTLY: QUESTION TIME. I was planning on painting all the timber and plywood with a coat of varnish, and then to top that off with a few coats of Marine Ships Hull paint for waterproofing, lastly doing the designs on the photoshopped pics in regular enamel Dulux paint on the sides, as the roof is getting ally skinned. What does everyone else use for the underbody, where road water and grime lands, and those with exposed wood sides to their trailers ?? Thanks, Rian.
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Last Edit: Dec 7, 2010 21:20:46 GMT by grizz
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Sept 29, 2009 18:37:53 GMT
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baking tray is original hot rod way to do the plate ;D
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Sept 29, 2009 18:41:58 GMT
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Get the fish and chips in Friday evening mate and we´re quits
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amazagon
Part of things
Amazons are go
Posts: 43
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Sept 29, 2009 18:44:33 GMT
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???What does everyone else use for the underbody, where road water and grime lands, and those with exposed wood sides to their trailers ?? Get some Bitumen paint and that will make it nice and waterproof and reasonably resilient (easy to paint over again for stone chips in the wheelarches etc). If you do not want it black cover this with "silver reflective roof paint" for the shinier look. Try a Wickes search with Bitumen Paint and it will come up together. Good luck.
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Last Edit: Sept 29, 2009 18:52:18 GMT by amazagon
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Sept 29, 2009 19:00:29 GMT
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baking tray is original hot rod way to do the plate ;D My dad is a rodder ;D ;D
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Sept 29, 2009 21:22:17 GMT
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Just got a PM from Dave in Germany. Trade conditions for the 3 way fridge have been re-negotiated by him, unilaterally. Price for the fridge now gone up to Fish and Chips for him and his son. 50cm wide - 48 cm deep and 60 cm high
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Sept 29, 2009 22:09:41 GMT
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Nice one Grizz , That looks like a LHD version of our fridge I'll throw in a fish cake and a portion of mushy peas if he wants to bring it down to Wiltshire. ;D ;D
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Sept 30, 2009 7:10:02 GMT
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Nice one Grizz , That looks like a LHD version of our fridge I'll throw in a fish cake and a portion of mushy peas if he wants to bring it down to Wiltshire. ;D ;D Hi Dave, Welcome to the site. I hope you tell Bruce (Mystery Machine) you are here too. Show a pic or two of your toys on the readers rides section. Off to work now.
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Sept 30, 2009 18:51:46 GMT
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baking tray is original hot rod way to do the plate ;D My dad is a rodder ;D ;D lol i read that as robber at first Grizz if B&Q give you trouble over returning the wood the stuff you got has VIDA stamped on the end which means that it is graded. If should be dry graded, and so it shouldn't twist or warp further. if it does just take it back and state that it doesn't conform to the grading standards for softwood. That should sort them! I just passed a visual strength grading course and some of the machine graded stuff that the DIY places sell can be well outside of acceptable grading standards! As for the walls, are you planning any insulation? if not it will get cold fast in the winter, and really hot in the summer. You could get some normal unfaced ply and sandwich 50 mm of polysytene insulation between the two sheets. Glue it together any you will end up with a strutually insulated panel. Stong light and with good insulation properties. Google SIPs and see. Looking nice so far mate. Lewis
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Sept 30, 2009 20:40:50 GMT
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lol I read that as robber at first Grizz if B&Q give you trouble over returning the wood the stuff you got has VIDA stamped on the end which means that it is graded. If should be dry graded, and so it shouldn't twist or warp further. if it does just take it back and state that it doesn't conform to the grading standards for softwood. That should sort them! I just passed a visual strength grading course and some of the machine graded stuff that the DIY places sell can be well outside of acceptable grading standards! As for the walls, are you planning any insulation? if not it will get cold fast in the winter, and really hot in the summer. You could get some normal unfaced ply and sandwich 50 mm of polysytene insulation between the two sheets. Glue it together any you will end up with a strutually insulated panel. Stong light and with good insulation properties. Google SIPs and see. Looking nice so far mate. Lewis Hi Lewis, long time no chat.... I plan on using 25mm polystyrene insulation sheeting allround, unless I can find something similar for even less than that price. I do not think one will need more than 25mm, as I have no intention of sleeping init in the dead of winter. The intention of this trailer is really just to miss out on sitting at 3am and pumping up a bloody blow up doll mattress. Also negates the need to cook ones brekkie in the sleeping area.
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Sept 30, 2009 21:02:29 GMT
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Guess I kinda started tonight, took the trailer "A-Fram" or Tongue as the Americans call it off the frame, took the brake rod off and cleaned it up. It gets dark early now, so progress will be a bit limited. I also tried the 2 fridges I got home yesterday, the small one works perfectly, the larger one is out on the pavement for collection by the steel collectors in the morning, I could not get it running, the element at the rear heats up, but I guess it is old and minus gas. Lucky I have the one I bought from Dave coming the weekend. First thing I did tonight was to move some of the stuff , or is that rubbish ? Up into the loft, to make space for the plywood and Ally thats getting delivered on Friday. By the way for those interested, two sheets of 1.2mm by 1.5m x 3.0m cost £130 delivered. Another ouch moment, but I guess I need to just get on with the build. Garage before: Brake rod undone. Roughly alligned, now needs drilling and fixing. Must have gained around 60cm , or 2 foot by moving the tongue back toward the axle. Rear calculations to be done later.
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Last Edit: Dec 7, 2010 21:22:19 GMT by grizz
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25 mm should do the trick. Just takes the worst of the hot/cold off.
Make sure the thing is reasonably airtight as well. nothing worse than a cold draft, although if youve had a lot of BBQ and beer that night, ventillation might be needed lol.
Lewis
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Messed about with mocking up the chassis now that it is in 2 parts. Will measure 3 x and cut once, I hope. The interesting thing is to calculate the whole thing with the Axle being a trailing axle. Where does the pivotal force work, and also where is the weight going to end up when the galley is in with all its bits ?? Anyway, bits of brick and timber to hold it all in place, and a prayer or two while I started mocking up the floor timbers. I also had to play with the door we bought last week, just to get an idea of where to locate it etc. Nicola once told me she made a very good banana cake (Something I am particularly fond of) last night she went to visit a friend, and as part of their evening together, they were baking..... Tonight she came here to pledge her solidarity with theTeardrop build . I will mount the door above the floor, with a threshold of around 4 inches, to offset the thickness of the mattress we got last week. Mockup gives an idea. I still need to plan in the portholes in front of the door on both sides as well. Who said I could not have my cake and eat it ?? (Al, the neighbour took pic)
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Last Edit: Dec 7, 2010 21:23:32 GMT by grizz
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93fxdl
Posted a lot
Enter your message here...
Posts: 2,019
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the pivot point will be the centre of the wheels. a cheap way to set up the nose weight is to place a set of bathroom scales under the hitch so as you build you can check the balance and move bits about as required but if it is still nose heavy mount balast at the back of the chassis ttfn glenn
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