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Mar 14, 2015 18:57:10 GMT
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So this morning I went here at 9:30  Spent two hours doing this  And this  Then another hour doing the same thing until I ended up in Northampton Where I saw this :  but most importantly this    Which I then drove home (it took 2 and a half hours for those keeping score). It pulls well (pushes technically) and if it wasn't for the fact my daily driver now days is a little silly I think it would have been a scary upgrade from the original engine  Pleased with how it goes, potential for much more is now in place too  Next steps New (special) wheels  Fix speedo some how Work out if I can minimise the exhaust rattle/vibration Make the interior a bit more comfortable (this was on the cards before the engine swap) Work out the door situation, can potentially get some glassfibre skins from Japan so no need for rust repairs (shipping is a REAL problem though) Same with bonnet Fix the horn Check the idle is okay, seems to sit at 2k when it is warm, but is about 1k when initally started might just be how the engine is I dunno. work out why the cigarette lighter doesn't work clean, clean, clean |
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rysz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,558
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Mar 14, 2015 19:04:54 GMT
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Ah, Castle Cary Station, the start point of many an adventure!
She is looking amazing and I'm glad that you're happy with her!
I will be very interested to see what wheels you put on... Any clues?
Rysz.
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randywanger_
Part of things
Nissan Bluebird P510 SSS Coupe
Posts: 946
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Mar 14, 2015 19:23:31 GMT
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YES! Bet it feels good to have it back. What are the special wheels then?
Pit Road or Restored for FRP parts?
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Mar 14, 2015 19:51:26 GMT
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Restored for FRP ... Special wheels are being made |
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Mar 14, 2015 19:52:29 GMT
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Also the start of the commute I do three times a week to London... so it was like an extra day of my normal commute, but I got to drive home very noisily instead |
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Mar 14, 2015 19:53:39 GMT
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crazy dutchie who did this to other older j tin cars says afm or 02 sensor possibly
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2001 HONDA CT110 (NOT RCV)
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Seth
South East
MorrisOxford TriumphMirald HillmanMinx BorgwardIsabellaCombi
Posts: 15,543
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Mar 14, 2015 20:51:46 GMT
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Great to see you've finally got this back. Can't wait to see the new wheels! |
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Follow your dreams or you might as well be a vegetable. |
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Fantastic |
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Last Edit: Mar 15, 2015 9:30:06 GMT by DarrenW
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Carter
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,535
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At last man, you must be well pleased! Good times!
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'77 Chevy G20
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Mar 21, 2015 21:24:45 GMT
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Okay folks, I was going to give the car a good clean today, and then list all the bits I wanted to do. Instead I spent the afternoon washing the daily Volvo C30 (which is almost as awesome as the Datsun), then waxing it, then polishing it..... So instead I took photos of all the things that are troubling me with the car and I shall share them here, as a way of documenting what I need to do and hopefully to get some advice. First up something that has long been a problem... what appear to be calcium deposits from the roof of The Dungeon. They seem to be particularly tricky to get rid of.   I tried some Viakal anti limescale stuff (figured it is basically a calcium killer),.. didn't work... any ideas?? It also appears to have picked up a couple of dents and scratches in the course of the work being done  ... which I'm not super pleased about :   On the more mechanical side... The window wipers resting position is this :  The bonnet is like this, but it isn't to fit the engine, it just seems to be in this position  On the underside and very mechanical side of things, the anti roll bar is the lowest part of the car and I need it not to be if I want to rectify the ride height (more of which in a moment).  Talking of ride height   The fronts need the anti roll bar sorting, the rears need the wheels changing (the new axle is a touch wider than the old one) both ends are on adjustable coil overs. The bumpers need respraying (again), but I may just get some fibreglass ones from Japan  This needs a carpet and I'd really like to move the pedal box back a bit (my legs are a little long for its current position)  See those silver bits they need to be black  This dash plate needs to be replace and I'll probably need to build some custom inserts for the clock pods ... and the steering wheel needs to be straightened (this is where it sits with the wheels perfectly straight)  This bit of silvery stuff on the door trim has been gradually coming off for years ... I need to sort it out!  Finally on the Stuff-I-Need-To-Do list is this curse word fuel cap. Which I appear to have left on the roof of the car and driven off when I put fuel in after I picked it up. So now I need to get a new fuel cap (although it does easily explain the scary smell of petrol in the garage when I went in this morning)  After that lot lets have some pictures of the good bit!      I'll do a video next time so you can see why I love it |
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markbognor
South East
 
Posts: 9,970
Club RR Member Number: 56
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Great to see this back out getting some love! I have a suspicion I can guess the general theme of the new wheels, but not the specifics.
Are the coilovers stiff enough for the ARB to be pretty much redundant? Could you just take it off?
I saw a picture of that light green kiwi one again the other day. That sits well.
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retrolegends
Club Retro Rides Member
Winging it.....Since 1971.
Posts: 3,726
Club RR Member Number: 94
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Looking good! I quite like the dash as it is. |
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1974 Hillman Avenger 1500DL1992 Volvo 240SE1975 Datsun Cherry 100a flying custard1965 Hillman SuperMinx Rock N Roller1974 Austin Allegrat Mk1 1.3SDL1980 Austin Allegro Mk3 1.3L1982 Austin Allegro Mk3 on banded steels2003 Saab 9-3 Convertible 220bhp TurboNutter1966 Morris Minor 1000 (Doris) 2019 Abarth 595C Turismo (not retro but awesome fun) www.facebook.com/DatsunCherry100a |
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Mar 22, 2015 16:52:14 GMT
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Are the coilovers stiff enough for the ARB to be pretty much redundant? Could you just take it off? Okay so this is where I could do with some schooling. If I stiffen the suspension will that be enough to negate the need for ARB, if I'm planning to head out on track? Or is there a way I can keep the ARB but have it do it doesn't track directly across the bottom of the engine, ie can it be rotated so that it sits in front of the sump? Or will the forces acting on it cause some horrific potential buckling? I figure if I can move the ARB I can build a sump guard of some description and bring the nose back down to the height it should be again, and enjoy the associated quality ride The rear is a bit trickier because of the whole wheel situation, and I want a bit more rubber for getting the power on to the road, my ex-F1 engineering team have told me to sort this, so I'm listening. Luckily the new wheels will be split rims, so I just need to go and measure it all up and work out where the hell the money for them is coming from as I've emptied my bank account now  |
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The Doctor
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 3,449
Club RR Member Number: 48
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Mar 22, 2015 18:07:33 GMT
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Tehcnically, the way it sits, doesn't matter, most Toyota ARBs for isntance go around the engine, instead of underneath, but the mounting points on the lower arms won't line up if you rotate it. So it's not simple to change, i think.
I know they are made of springsteel, it should be possible to make a new one, if you want to keep it.
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Mar 22, 2015 18:47:09 GMT
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The ARB ties suspension loads from one side to the other, transferring loads to counter roll. Removing it and relying on the stiffness of the suspension will not suffice. If you know the rough shape of one which would go around the engine instead of under it, you may be able to use one from another model or make *n |
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Top grammar tips!
Bought = purchased. Brought = relocated
Lose = misplace/opposite of win. Loose = your mum
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speedy88
Club Retro Rides Member
"Nice Cortina mate"
Posts: 2,302
Club RR Member Number: 118
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Mar 23, 2015 10:24:25 GMT
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For the calcium deposits and scratches, try G3 scratch remover - it's proper crackin and you can even pick it up in halfords. Even if it doesn't work it's really useful to have around as it will remove any top layer scratches. The Sigma had some weird marks on it where a carpet underlay had sat on it for 20 years and soaked into the paint. A few goes of G3 and it came right out, leaving nice shiny paint.
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Mar 23, 2015 16:27:43 GMT
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This is sooooo cool mate, really love it. I have a SR I'm rebuilding to go into my car, what do you make of it? how is it to drive?
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Mar 23, 2015 19:17:49 GMT
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Or is there a way I can keep the ARB but have it do it doesn't track directly across the bottom of the engine, ie can it be rotated so that it sits in front of the sump? Or will the forces acting on it cause some horrific potential buckling? The rear is a bit trickier because of the whole wheel situation, and I want a bit more rubber for getting the power on to the road, my ex-F1 engineering team have told me to sort this, so I'm listening. Luckily the new wheels will be split rims, so I just need to go and measure it all up and work out where the hell the money for them is coming from as I've emptied my bank account now Have you looked at the Aussie sites for the ARB solution? They have been doing SR20 swaps into Datsuns for a decade now and have lots of "off the shelf " products...plug and play. As for rears, are you sticking with stock rear wheel arches ? Some JDM inspired fender flares , or even TS cup racer kit and you can get 9-10 " rear wheels and 245 series sticy rubber for max footprint/ contact area? |
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This is sooooo cool mate, really love it. I have a SR I'm rebuilding to go into my car, what do you make of it? how is it to drive? The engine pulls like a train, I got a lightened flywheel at the recommendation of Eddie Rattley and it revs nice and easily. I've not gone wild with it yet, just a run onto the motorway which surprised the Audi RS5 that was trying to harass me on the feed in road, took him about two miles to catch up. |
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Have you looked at the Aussie sites for the ARB solution? They have been doing SR20 swaps into Datsuns for a decade now and have lots of "off the shelf " products...plug and play. As for rears, are you sticking with stock rear wheel arches ? Some JDM inspired fender flares , or even TS cup racer kit and you can get 9-10 " rear wheels and 245 series sticy rubber for max footprint/ contact area? Oooh good point MadDat have one :  www.maddat.com.au/sunny.phpArches have been rolled at the rear and I did some measuring today... you'll see in a bit, I think it can swallow much wider wheels... the rear arches on the B310 are ludicrous |
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... which I'm not super pleased about :
