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You are going to need to clean up the threads on the insert David. Time to find what threads they are, and get a die :-) Insert is fine, it is the top mounts. Remember that the old nuts were all cross threaded on one side? Well they would have fitted the new top mounts perfectly (they do on the other side). The nut and bolts I replaced them with on the bad side have nuts that are the wrong thread/size. So need to sort that out and then I'm rolling again.
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I've actually got a vernier gauge around the place somewhere, still unpacking the garage stuff. however it isn't a flash electronic one... so now I have one of those on the way ... Never seen the screw pitch gauge before though, that is top notch.
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Apr 10, 2016 11:56:09 GMT
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Right gauge tells me I need M10 nuts with 1.25 thread pitch (or Fine Thread as it is known)... ALL the shops in my local area only stock M10 nuts with 1.5 thread pitch. So now I'm needing to order 3 nuts off of the internet!... I suspect I'll only be able to buy them in packets of 100.
In other news I'm going to order some springs this week (was going to pop to Merlin Motorsport yesterday, but the weather was dreadful), need to check the diameter this afternoon, but right now I have 10 and a half inch springs at 160lbs ... I'm looking to reduce the length by 2 inches and increase the stiffness, anyone got any advice on what stiffness/lbs to go for? Car weighs around 800kg, and I want it stiffer but not by too much (the rears need much more stiffness, but I'll look at those one the front is back together).
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The Doctor
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 3,449
Club RR Member Number: 48
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Apr 10, 2016 12:03:02 GMT
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M10 1,25 pitch thread is commonly used on japanese exhaust pipes and manifolds, if you happen to have a spare engine laying around, there could be some nuts for you
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Apr 10, 2016 12:08:58 GMT
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relatively common on french tat too, stuff like track rod nuts
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Apr 10, 2016 12:54:53 GMT
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Yeah the three that came off the original bolts were all badly crossthreaded (partly why I had an excuse to get new top mounts ). It seems DIY type places only deal with 1.50, so internet to the rescue!
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Apr 10, 2016 13:08:44 GMT
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Try a motorcycle type place. I needed some M12 fine pitch nuts,the only place i could get some was a Motorcycle parts place.
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Apr 10, 2016 22:23:42 GMT
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In other news I'm going to order some springs this week (was going to pop to Merlin Motorsport yesterday, but the weather was dreadful), need to check the diameter this afternoon, but right now I have 10 and a half inch springs at 160lbs ... I'm looking to reduce the length by 2 inches and increase the stiffness, anyone got any advice on what stiffness/lbs to go for? Car weighs around 800kg, and I want it stiffer but not by too much (the rears need much more stiffness, but I'll look at those one the front is back together). IIRC I am using 200lb in my pa10 and would like to go stiffer still (probably 250lb) as I feel the nose dives on spirited driving.. also use good quality inserts as they play a massive part in getting the correct feel. Is the b310 coupe really 800kg? Damn, thought they were nearer the 900kg mark..
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Is the b310 coupe really 800kg? Damn, thought they were nearer the 900kg mark.. Actually you're right, I was misremembering where the B310 is on the weight chart for Sunnys ... also just done some back of a fag packet maths and the whole lot currently weighs closer to high 900kg (970kg-ish) because of the engine swap, only question mark is how much the trans and axle weight in comparison to the originals. Struts are Bilstein, I'm hoping for a nice balance between firmness and comfortable ride when paired with the right springs. The rears are more of an issue, but I've not even started looking at them yet.
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Last Edit: Apr 11, 2016 7:17:57 GMT by HoTWire
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Apr 11, 2016 14:32:54 GMT
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Is the b310 coupe really 800kg? Damn, thought they were nearer the 900kg mark.. Actually you're right, I was misremembering where the B310 is on the weight chart for Sunnys ... also just done some back of a fag packet maths and the whole lot currently weighs closer to high 900kg (970kg-ish) because of the engine swap, only question mark is how much the trans and axle weight in comparison to the originals. Time to put it on a diet in that case . Restored JP have heaps of FRP bits Struts are Bilstein, I'm hoping for a nice balance between firmness and comfortable ride when paired with the right springs. The rears are more of an issue, but I've not even started looking at them yet. Depends on your rear axle set up; Technically the rears are much easier and straight forward to source and install
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Last Edit: Apr 11, 2016 14:33:36 GMT by datsfun
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Apr 11, 2016 17:55:49 GMT
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Looks to me like you should get the strut sectioned and remove the spacer.
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1977 datsun 810 180b estate
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Apr 11, 2016 19:57:51 GMT
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Yeah the three that came off the original bolts were all badly crossthreaded (partly why I had an excuse to get new top mounts ). It seems DIY type places only deal with 1.50, so internet to the rescue! Aren't you Yeovil area? Wentin Fasteners on Penn Mill trading estate have a very good selection of nuts and bolts doubtless including M10 fine. Failing that they are often used on damper top nuts on Fordy and VW things. I quite likely have some in my big bucket of assorted fastener tat which is not far from South Petherton...... Nick
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1967 Triumph Vitesse convertible (old friend) 1996 Audi A6 2.5 TDI Avant (still durability testing) 1972 GT6 Mk3 (Restored after loong rest & getting the hang of being a car again)
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Apr 12, 2016 16:07:33 GMT
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Aren't you Yeovil area? Wentin Fasteners on Penn Mill trading estate have a very good selection of nuts and bolts doubtless including M10 fine. Awesome stuff, ordered from them earlier nice to have someone like that local-ish Looks to me like you should get the strut sectioned and remove the spacer. It has already been sectioned substantially. When I replace the front Strut assembly I'll have to redo the whole lot anyway, so I'll do it then Time to put it on a diet in that case . Restored JP have heaps of FRP bits Shipping is the curse word, I need to order some front and rear bumpers, those things aren't cheap to ship it seems ... I'd love a set of doors, but they are crazy expensive. Depends on your rear axle set up; Technically the rears are much easier and straight forward to source and install Rear is a Ford (shhhh!) Baby Atlas, with adjustable Escort Group 4 set up. I didn't fit it though, so I'm not sure how troublesome it is to take apart. Springs need to be MUCH stiffer though, even when I do have wheels that fit nicely inside the arches, I'm not sure what is on there at the moment, wonder if the fronts being swapped to the rear may improve things.
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Apr 12, 2016 22:14:25 GMT
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Depends on your rear axle set up; Technically the rears are much easier and straight forward to source and install Rear is a Ford (shhhh!) Baby Atlas, with adjustable Escort Group 4 set up. I didn't fit it though, so I'm not sure how troublesome it is to take apart. Springs need to be MUCH stiffer though, even when I do have wheels that fit nicely inside the arches, I'm not sure what is on there at the moment, wonder if the fronts being swapped to the rear may improve things. With a F#%d rear axle, I would also be embarrassed Is it running a separate rear spring and rear shock absorber set up ( like the factory Nissan) or do you have one piece rear adjustable coil over shock absorbers?
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With a F#%d rear axle, I would also be embarrassed Is it running a separate rear spring and rear shock absorber set up ( like the factory Nissan) or do you have one piece rear adjustable coil over shock absorbers? I'm sure I'll get over the embarrassment when I don't have to replace the half shafts, and when I want to upgrade bits I can just pick up a catalogue and pick what I want It is a proper coil over set up. I'm hoping it is as simple to deal with as the front, jack up, remove top mount, extract spring.
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Apr 13, 2016 13:39:41 GMT
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With a F#%d rear axle, I would also be embarrassed Is it running a separate rear spring and rear shock absorber set up ( like the factory Nissan) or do you have one piece rear adjustable coil over shock absorbers? I'm sure I'll get over the embarrassment when I don't have to replace the half shafts, and when I want to upgrade bits I can just pick up a catalogue and pick what I want It is a proper coil over set up. I'm hoping it is as simple to deal with as the front, jack up, remove top mount, extract spring. Yep in that case should be easy to swap springs . Good luck.
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Apr 17, 2016 15:46:18 GMT
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Good News, Bad News Good NewsThe car is back on four wheels and I drove it round the block, the ride height is almost exactly where I want it Bad NewsClunk ... Clunk ... Clunk Clunk. There isn't quite enough travel on the shocks to keep it at that height, let alone drop it the next half/full inch or so I want to drop it. Good NewsThe magnificent @johnnybravo already suggested that drilling a hole through the spacer and mounting it above the shock will a) gain more travel and b) allow for more lows at a later point. Bad NewsI don't have a pillar drill (although I do now have a vice) so this will be tricky, I'll probably give it a test run though. Good News/Bad NewsI'm on various holidays for the next few weekends, so will be lacking in time to do these things. I may find a spare few minutes on Tuesday to drill down my spare spacer. Bad NewsI had to pay a big old fine for unpaid tax. I thought the car had been SORN when I the work was done on it, I must have forgotten to do that, the V5 still had my previous address on it, so it took them another house move to track me down. Keep your paper work up to date folks. Good NewsI've updated all the info on the V5! Bad NewsThis means I need to do the paper work for the engine size change (something else I thought had been done for some reason). Good NewsOnce that is done I need not worry about paper work for a while. Good NewsI've got my wheels boxed up now and I just need to get a courier to take them away for some work to be done on them Good NewsOn their return I can start to sort out the back end of the car, get the front end in its more proper set up (although the wheels should be the same size as the ones there now). All in progress today felt good,.. I could just raise the car up a bit and drive it like that, but as I won't be around for a while to drive it I figure I'll try and get it how I want it. Will buy a Dremel when I get paid so I can carry on with the clocks. Suspect a dashboard is going to be a difficult ask, so need to work out what I need to know for 3D printing. Will update my List Of Jobs and start to try and cross some more off.
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Apr 18, 2016 21:30:47 GMT
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Found a dashboard on yahoo auctions... Be about £300 delivered. Hmmmmmm
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£300 buys some nice instruments or a tasty digi dash. Thought about putting in a Honda S2000 cluster?
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