bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,976
Club RR Member Number: 71
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I agree. this one is ex-filth too, CID car. No it's not! It's a basic spec car. Actually it is an ex police or services car and what you wrote below proves it for me The only thing that pi$$ed me off was the little triangular bits in the centre console - when I got it the whole of the centre console was grey vinyl as per basic spec and police spec cars, I have never ever seen a basic spec car with these items fitted - they are a huge clue to the cars origin. It may not have gone to either police or services but it was spec'd as one and I'm pretty sure that John S found out that it was ex services and probably CID. Sorry Matt |
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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theres a strong possibility this guy here was the first owner/driver, as the first owner was a mr A barnfather/west mids police....... www.pannone.com/people_dtl.asp?peopleid=43i think it has got an lsd, and i think it works too. ive owned and driven quite a few cars with different types of LSD, and i knew this one was a clutch type by the way it felt- you can feel it slipping and gripping as each wheel lost and gained traction. this feeling is lost when driving in grippy conditions though, it only manifests itself when traction is low. they will still spin the inside wheel in the dry as they're not a true locker like a volvo or detroit axle, the grip of the outside tyre is still greater than the grip of the diff clutch plate. i will take the wooden dash bits if they're going begging mate, you still got my adress? ive now lost out on 3 sets of very similar wheels due to shill bidding, ile post up as soon as i get some! I'm gunna have to spend some cash sorting out the electrical niggles first though, so wheels may have to wait a bit now- it depends what turns up at what price. |
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bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,976
Club RR Member Number: 71
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As expected  ive now lost out on 3 sets of very similar wheels due to shill bidding, ile post up as soon as I get some! I'm gunna have to spend some cash sorting out the electrical niggles first though, so wheels may have to wait a bit now- it depends what turns up at what price. I'm sure stuyiz and I worked out that he had a set of wheels that would fit - they might be a bit smaller than you are looking for but may suit the car |
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djmatt
Part of things
Posts: 200
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Shows how much I was interested in history  |
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bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,976
Club RR Member Number: 71
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Shows how much I was interested in history LOL - no worries Matt ;D |
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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As expected ive now lost out on 3 sets of very similar wheels due to shill bidding, ile post up as soon as I get some! I'm gunna have to spend some cash sorting out the electrical niggles first though, so wheels may have to wait a bit now- it depends what turns up at what price. I'm sure stuyiz and I worked out that he had a set of wheels that would fit - they might be a bit smaller than you are looking for but may suit the car i spoke to him in the pub the other night- they're barely different in size or looks to whats on, so theres not really any point in changing for them. thanks for thinknig of me though  |
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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Shows how much I was interested in history i wouldnt have bothered looking through that massive box of recepts myself either, but ive be ill in bed the last week and was starting to get more than a little bored!! |
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djmatt
Part of things
Posts: 200
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lol same with me, got bored one day!
Didn't know the original owner was in there though...
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djmatt
Part of things
Posts: 200
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I spoke to him in the pub the other night- they're barely different in size or looks to whats on, so theres not really any point in changing for them. thanks for thinknig of me though Are they the 16" irmscher jobbies then? They do look very similar but better than the 15's |
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Last Edit: Apr 3, 2008 0:00:39 GMT by djmatt
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bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,976
Club RR Member Number: 71
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I spoke to him in the pub the other night- they're barely different in size or looks to whats on, so theres not really any point in changing for them. thanks for thinknig of me though Are they the 16" irmscher jobbies then? They do look very similar but better than the 15's No they were 15's but different - I liked em!! |
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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wheels are gunna have to wait i'm afraid boys, been spending cash left right and centre on everything but, so funds are too low to get anything different. anyways, ive been slowly sorting the electricals, in between being rather ill, and the curse word weather. I welded a stainless nut onto the inner wing to give it somewhere decent to bolt the earth to, as the original was damaged. then I painted it, ran a tap through it, sanded the surface back, and used a M10 stainless bolt with spring washer to bolt the earth down, with a smear of coppergrease to prevent corrosion.  the new earth strap- 2 gauge braided wire, with a big 'ol terminal soldered on, I used a zinc plated terminal to prevent corrosion, and gold plated raptor multi-wire clamps for the battery. this are great for if youve got extra wiring over stock, such as all the stuff for the LPG and airbags on mine.   positive clamp waiting to go on to get rid of all the ring terminals on the battery clamp bolt-  then, when speaking to a mate of mine i'm doing some work for, I happened to mention my problems. it turns out his dad used to work for the police in their maintanence department. he rang him, and he instantly said its one of 2 things- a bad earth, or a problem with the crank position. well I was already ontp the earth situation (I'm making a new one to replace the one between the engine block and chassis, then ile replace the one between alternator body and engine block). but I immediately thought of matt saying he-d replaced the CPS recently, and investigated that-   ile rewire the connections, as the soldering isnt perfect. the original wire is a strange one with 2 cores and an outer ring of fine mesh, like a co-axial cable, so I will see about tracing it back and replacing the lot with 3 seperate wires just to be sure. the base of the plug on the actual sensor is all cracked though, with the cable exposed, which I think could be the problem. so I may need another  still, at least these turned up to help me keep my morale up with the fecking thing-   UK legal german plates. they clean it up nicely, I love the look of pressed ally plates over the crappy plastic things. |
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Last Edit: Apr 5, 2008 18:44:47 GMT by Dez
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The Doctor
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 3,449
Club RR Member Number: 48
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LOVELY car!  That last pic makes it look sooo nice ;D But, i take it your not interested in my bike carbs anymore, because i haven't heard of you anymore?  |
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ile rewire the connections, as the soldering isnt perfect. the original wire is a strange one with 2 cores and an outer ring of fine mesh, like a co-axial cable, so I will see about tracing it back and replacing the lot with 3 seperate wires just to be sure. the base of the plug on the actual sensor is all cracked though, with the cable exposed, which I think could be the problem. so I may need another That's a shielded cable, that fine mesh is a ground, designed to keep the signal free from outside interference. I'd say you're getting a bad/noisy signal from the CPS, they're quite sensitive and need to be properly shielded for the entire length of their run. |
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1982 VW Rabbit 4-door (apart)
1992 Passat Wagon Syncro (daily)
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A bit left of field but your local Maplin should stock Microphone cable...Twin core, shielded earth and usually pretty resiliant stuff *n |
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Top grammar tips!
Bought = purchased. Brought = relocated
Lose = misplace/opposite of win. Loose = your mum
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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LOVELY car! That last pic makes it look sooo nice ;D But, I take it your not interested in my bike carbs anymore, because I haven't heard of you anymore? Cheers! PM on its way about the carbs.... |
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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ile rewire the connections, as the soldering isnt perfect. the original wire is a strange one with 2 cores and an outer ring of fine mesh, like a co-axial cable, so I will see about tracing it back and replacing the lot with 3 seperate wires just to be sure. the base of the plug on the actual sensor is all cracked though, with the cable exposed, which I think could be the problem. so I may need another That's a shielded cable, that fine mesh is a ground, designed to keep the signal free from outside interference. I'd say you're getting a bad/noisy signal from the CPS, they're quite sensitive and need to be properly shielded for the entire length of their run. bingo!!! that must be the problem. it appears the lower section is shielded, from what i can see through the cracked plug insulation. but theres now a 6-8" length of unshielded wire across the top of the rocker cover. that would explain perfectly why it works intermittently. its a good job someone picked up on that- can you tell I'm not used to working on anything this modern? |
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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A bit left of field but your local Maplin should stock Microphone cable...Twin core, shielded earth and usually pretty resiliant stuff *n cheers for the tip- only problem i can see then is affixing the sockets on each end and keeping it shielded I'm gunna have to trace it all the way back up to see how replaceable it is, i presume it goes to the ECU? |
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Love this car and great thread too, informative like Keep on it dez, great work as always. |
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Faster. Faster. Until the thrill of speed overcomes the fear of death.
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A bit left of field but your local Maplin should stock Microphone cable...Twin core, shielded earth and usually pretty resiliant stuff *n cheers for the tip- only problem I can see then is affixing the sockets on each end and keeping it shielded I'm gunna have to trace it all the way back up to see how replaceable it is, I presume it goes to the ECU? Usually that's where it terminates, or near the main ECU connector. Also, soldering isn't usually the best way to connect a shielded wire like that, due to the possibility of increasing the resistance at the solder point if too much is added. As blasphemous as it sounds, I use crimp connectors most times, with a generous helping of heat-shrink tubing over top. I've seen shielded sleeves that can be slid over top of a wire, but I'm at a loss as to where. Best bet, go with the microphone cable mentioned above, it's ok if there is an inch or so of unshielded cable near the sensor/ECU, but the stuff that crosses the bay has to be shielded to block out noise. |
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1982 VW Rabbit 4-door (apart)
1992 Passat Wagon Syncro (daily)
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Davenger
Club Retro Rides Member
It's only metal
Posts: 7,272
Club RR Member Number: 140
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A bit left of field but your local Maplin should stock Microphone cable...Twin core, shielded earth and usually pretty resiliant stuff *n cheers for the tip- only problem I can see then is affixing the sockets on each end and keeping it shielded I'm gunna have to trace it all the way back up to see how replaceable it is, I presume it goes to the ECU? Well, I've got a couple of old twin core guitar leads you could butcher for the desired effect. |
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