Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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thanks for the advice. the crank sensor on this thing runs as a twin shielded wire up the side of the block, round the 'stat housing and to a plug that lays kinda on top of the inlet manifold, next to the rocker cover- probably the worst place for it  its the bit from this plug back along the top of the engine bay to the firewall thats been replaced, about 8" or so of it but with 3 core wire rather than shielded twin core, with the 3rd wire soldered into the bunched-up shield. it then goes into the main loom and goes feck knows where, and the thought of slicing the loom open to find it is just depressing right now.  I'm debating whether the best way to do it is to carefully splice in some shielded twincore, cutting back inside the shield so i can roll back the shield then pull it over again after ive joined the inner wires, which means ive then gotta fit it to the plug as well, or just sack the lot off and run a fresh bit all the way form the sensor to where ever it goes. cheers for the tip- only problem I can see then is affixing the sockets on each end and keeping it shielded  I'm gunna have to trace it all the way back up to see how replaceable it is, I presume it goes to the ECU? Usually that's where it terminates, or near the main ECU connector. Also, soldering isn't usually the best way to connect a shielded wire like that, due to the possibility of increasing the resistance at the solder point if too much is added. As blasphemous as it sounds, I use crimp connectors most times, with a generous helping of heat-shrink tubing over top. I've seen shielded sleeves that can be slid over top of a wire, but I'm at a loss as to where. Best bet, go with the microphone cable mentioned above, it's ok if there is an inch or so of unshielded cable near the sensor/ECU, but the stuff that crosses the bay has to be shielded to block out noise. |
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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cheers for the tip- only problem I can see then is affixing the sockets on each end and keeping it shielded I'm gunna have to trace it all the way back up to see how replaceable it is, I presume it goes to the ECU? Well, I've got a couple of old twin core guitar leads you could butcher for the desired effect. i might take you up on that mate. i need to get this thing sorted quickly as at the moment i don't have a working car. i swear I'm one problem away from robbing all the good bits off and weighing this fecking thing in. i could have the air and gas off for the pontiac, and at least i wouldnt be too far out of pocket all this car has done is reminded me why i hate modern cars. electrics!! |
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Davenger
Club Retro Rides Member
It's only metal
Posts: 7,272
Club RR Member Number: 140
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Been looking at the guitar lead, not sure the wire will be man enough for the job.
I'll bring it with me next time we're down the pub and you can see what you think
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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the 2 inner wires are only 1mm squared diameter, so are pretty thin.....
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Davenger
Club Retro Rides Member
It's only metal
Posts: 7,272
Club RR Member Number: 140
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Hmm, the lead I've got is thinner than that, but I might be able to "aquire" something a bit more heavy duty to suit your needs
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The german plates really clean the styling up, good move. Love the wiring  |
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Sierra - here we go again! He has an illness, it's not his fault.
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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Hmm, the lead I've got is thinner than that, but I might be able to "aquire" something a bit more heavy duty to suit your needs don't stress it make, ile nip down maplins tomorrow and get it sorted. i really need to get this thing sorted as I'm getting well bogged down with it, its stopping me doing paid work. i may try bodging it up with some stainless overbraid or tin foil for a day or 2, and driving it, see if that cures the problem, at least then i know i want be replacing it all for nowt. |
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Davenger
Club Retro Rides Member
It's only metal
Posts: 7,272
Club RR Member Number: 140
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Fair enough mate
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DutyFreeSaviour
Europe
Back For More heartbreak and disappointment.....
Posts: 2,944
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What a palarva Dez - hope the temp shielding proves the issue. I take it it's not worth robbing a scrapyard hulkof the same section of loom and splicing that in...... I'm a complete wanger with electrics and would've tried that - I suppose it wouldn't work and I'd be weighing it in right now! ;D Good luck with it - it really is a worth the effort though - top looking ride you've got there.  |
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Back from the dead..... kind of
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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right, I'm officially SICK of this car :-( I got it what I thought was all sorted, all new earths in the engine bay including new terminals, all earths sanded and greased, and the dodgy bit of crank sensor loom insulated. worked fine for 2 days and now its doing exactly the same thing. AARRGGH!! I'm so fecked off with it, I can see it getting broken soon unless someones got the ideas or knowhow to sort it asap, its just worth more in bits then as a non-functioning whole. I cant keep wasting time and money on this thing when I'm supposed to be working on customers stuff. i think it will be thrown in a corner for a while and ile recomission the nissan now ive got a clutch for it, cos i hate this car so much right now  |
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Last Edit: Apr 9, 2008 15:21:15 GMT by Dez
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might be an idea to take a break from it if its stopping your from working.
can always come back to it later
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bigrod
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,654
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Sad to hear you're having such a headache with the Senny.
For anyone that's wondering, I'd like to say that this shouldn't bear any reflection on Matt as I've had quite a few dealings with him in the past and he's proved to have been of exemplary conscience.
I also know that he did a vast number of miles in this car, so it's mechanicaly sound as far as I know.
I can feel your pain with the electrical side though Dez and am amazed at your patience and attention to detail.
Please don't break it!
I bet it's something really stupid that's causing you grief! I don't know if Matt's already tried it, but it might be an idea to turn your attentions to the ECU. It lives behind the drivers side kickplate and can sometimes get a little damp. It might not be the 'box' itself, but perhaps the contacts have gotten past their best.
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If I have to explain, you won't understand.
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bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,976
Club RR Member Number: 71
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Definately I bet it's something really stupid that's causing you grief! I don't know if Matt's already tried it, but it might be an idea to turn your attentions to the ECU. It lives behind the drivers side kickplate and can sometimes get a little damp. It might not be the 'box' itself, but perhaps the contacts have gotten past their best. If you need another ECU to try I have one ready for the gold top engine I plan to stick in the Rally monza I can give it to one of the guys doing Marham that are closer to you than I am if that helps |
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bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,976
Club RR Member Number: 71
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I got it what I thought was all sorted, all new earths in the engine bay including new terminals, all earths sanded and greased, and the dodgy bit of crank sensor loom insulated. worked fine for 2 days and now its doing exactly the same thing. AARRGGH!! Can you go over what it's doing again please - I've ben back thro the post and got a litle confused  |
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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rod, nah I'm not blaming matt. I'm just generally intoxicated off with the car and having a good rant.
ile check the ecu contacts out today.
BC, the general manifestation is this-
I fully charge the battery, fit it, and its fine- ile get a day to 2 days good running out of it before it starts to play up. usually the first indication is the gearbox goes into limp mode and flashes the gearbox light, along with the abs light randomly goes on and off, as does the engine fault light. then, itll just die, and wont restart as the battery is too flat- shows about 11v when tested.
but, when its up and running the alternator is showing about 13.5V, as is the battery, so it appears to be fine and charging. the battery drop test is fine too. I replaced the field wire as first port of call on a problem like this as it was the obvious choice. no dice, so ive now done all the engine bay earthing straps- replaced with now 2 gauge wire and new terminals, soldered on, and cleaned up all the bits of chassis they bolt to.
the thing is, it didnt do this the first 2 weeks I had it, its a new problem thats manifested itself, so something must have gone wrong/broken in that time.
I'm now thinking i should replace the alternator and battery even though they 'appear' to be fine, see if that cures it.
youll be glad to hear its staying in one piece now, due to some serious bribery by a mate of mine who having it later in the year........
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Last Edit: Apr 10, 2008 9:20:57 GMT by Dez
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Apr 10, 2008 17:50:11 GMT
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Cant really help, but some possible pointers?
Based on my injected Camaro.
ECU, does it manage the charging circuit? It may be seeing less voltage than is actually there, hence dropping into limp mode?
ECU, usually requires minimum of 9v or it will shut the engine down. Can you possibly jury rig a voltmeter on the car to see what the battery is seeing as it plays up?
Based on problems on the Camaro over the years, its probably a really stupid fault (bad earth on a connection or sensor) but can be a PITA to actually find.
If its any consolation, my Camaro last year developed a fault, it would cut out over bumps or if driving off idle in big traffic jams (engine in big heat soak), then it would cut out over little bumps, then eventually it would cut out as I dropped it into drive, though it would run as sweet as can be on the drive, no amount of testing or pulling of wires would cause it to fail!!
After 3 weeks of almost crying in frustration (its my daily!) I pulled a part of the loom again, and it cut out! Eureka! it turned out to be the outer sheathing on the injector loom (buried down back of engine) had peeled back from age & heat and was earthing the injectors momentarily, causing total flooding of the engine, 5 mins with electricians tape and it was cured!
I feel for you, as how can you fix it if you don't know what's wrong?
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Apr 10, 2008 18:03:51 GMT
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A friend had a MkII Golf Digifant that would only run in reverse. The minute you tried to go forward, it would stumble, stall, and generally act terrible. Put it in reverse, and you could drive for days without issue. We beat ourselves silly trying to figure it out, until one day, another friend was over and he just happened to grab the main injector connector...stalled out immediately. One tiny busted wire, hidden away in a two pin connector, that when in any forward gear, would get pulled out of solid contact. We were in shock, but it taught us to inspect EVERYTHING. I feel your pain . |
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1982 VW Rabbit 4-door (apart)
1992 Passat Wagon Syncro (daily)
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Apr 10, 2008 18:53:48 GMT
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Have a done a current consumption test on it while its switched off?
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Apr 10, 2008 19:22:25 GMT
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Does the charge warning light on the dash work as normal? this is a vital part of the charging circuit and if the bulb goes, it can cause all sorts of problems.
From what you have written, I would say the problem is definately with the charging system, all the warning lamps and limp modes coming on close together are a symptom of low voltage.
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1986 Panda 4x4.
1990 Metro Sport.
1999 Ford Escort estate.
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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Apr 10, 2008 21:43:06 GMT
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I'm a bit too tired for this now, but ile answer what i can....
first, rev, yes i have, its deffo not anything draining it. plus, id charged the battery fully, then i left it parked up with the alarm/immobiliser on for nearly a week whilst i was ill, and it started immediately. its only if its driven its doing it, meaning the cars running off the battery, which isnt then getting charged up.
blackpop, I'm gonig through a simlar process at the mo- if only i could find what was actually wrong, I'm sure itll be a quick fix!!
update of what i did today with pics and rambling words in a bit.
dave 21478, yes the light working fine- first thing i checked, the bulb and the field wire.
and yeah, id already decided the same, its voltage drop due to lack of charging thats causing all the issues. thing is, according to everything i can test, the charging system IS working!!
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