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Kieran - I have a dizzy sorted, but the engine has no carb, inlet manifold or exhause manifold.
I will try and make my own intake manifold to mate to the bike carbs and I have an exhaust manifold from a fwd engine. I need to make an exhaust too, so although the fwd exhaust might not be quite right I might be able to make it work. I will have to fit it and see!
What jets are you running? These are 32mm minkunis (sp!) so I think they are the same as the ones you are using. Any tips on setup would be good. Are you running a fpr and the standard mechanical pump or a different setup.
Seth - the wheels are 15x8 Wellers with 195/50/15 rubber.
Lewis
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Kieran
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,092
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You really need to tweak the dizzy if its standard for a bit more advance at high revs and weaker springs so it comes in earlier. The standard 130 / 136 dizzys were designed to stop the engines revving past about 5000rpm.
Jetting wise for the carbs, I'm not sure because the guy I bought them off had them set up ata rolling road place and unhelpfully they used drills to set the jets, rather than weber jets that fit....
I am running the stock fuel pump at the mo, but it leans out at the top end so have bought a bike elec fuel pump.
Filter wise, the guys at Bogg Bros say that with bike carbs, the secret is a big airbox, so when you floor it, the carbs have a nice supply of "clean" air.
My carbs are from an FZR600 so need to be mounted semi down draught, otherwise the carbs will flood constantly.
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The Ashby Jackson fleet:-
1979 Mini Clubman 1.8 K series 1978 Skoda 110r Project 130RS K-oupe 1978 Austin Allegro 1500 SDL Estate 1984 BMW K100 Sidecar outfit 1999 Yamaha FZS 1000 Fazer 1991 Kawasaki ZXR400 race bike 2002 Kawasaki ZX9r race bike
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May 10, 2010 12:24:17 GMT
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I could throw my 120 dizzy on there is that is any better? I will look at modifiying the dizzy too at some point.
I will go with the stock pump first and see. Did you use a fuel pressure reg?
Lewis
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May 15, 2010 18:22:52 GMT
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Well a little bit more progress today. I finished tidying the shed (only took about three months lol!) and mounted the new engine on my engine stand. First things first was to dig out and lay out all my bits and bobs. I have some different speakers to fit into the front of the car in the origional pods I hung the exhaust manfold onto the engine which appears to work, but I will need to see if it clashes with any of the coolant pipes in the bay Dizzy fitted Engine and box getting closer together I then set about the standard paint combo for the rocker cover. Cleaned in the skink. SWMBO not impressed Masked up and ready for paint Primer and satin black Then the raised areas sanded and brushed. Not much work, but satisfying none the less Lewis
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iant
Part of things
Posts: 155
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May 15, 2010 19:23:28 GMT
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Looks the business! Loving this build.
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nugget
Part of things
Posts: 840
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May 15, 2010 19:28:13 GMT
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That's exactly how I want my rocker cover ;D! This car is starting to look really deadly! Just had a thought, continue the black/white theme, how about doing the bare metal white? Or if not I can do that
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May 15, 2010 20:12:22 GMT
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I did think about doing the white to the raised areas to keep the theme going too.
I have some white spray but might decant some into a pot and try and hand paint the raised bits.
I also wondered about painting the engine black as well, again to carry the theme with the body, or silver to match the suspension. TBH I am not sure I can be assed to clean it, plus its not too grotty anyway.
I now need to source a 136 water pump and a suitable thermostat housing.
Lewis
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Kieran
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,092
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May 15, 2010 20:45:38 GMT
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No fuel pressure regulator needed. Hey, My rocker cover looks like that: Great minds and all that.....
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The Ashby Jackson fleet:-
1979 Mini Clubman 1.8 K series 1978 Skoda 110r Project 130RS K-oupe 1978 Austin Allegro 1500 SDL Estate 1984 BMW K100 Sidecar outfit 1999 Yamaha FZS 1000 Fazer 1991 Kawasaki ZXR400 race bike 2002 Kawasaki ZX9r race bike
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Indeed! That is hopefully how my engine bay will look once finished!
What are you running filter wise? I was thinking tupperware box feeding the carbs with a remote cold air feed and filter.
Lewis
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Kieran
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,092
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That was my thoughts originally, but finding a tupperware box long enough is difficult. And also, because the carbs sit high (semi down draught remember) it would have to be really shallow, which negates the point of an airbox really.
Options are individual bolt on filters (easily available) or a custom airbox (like Ive gone for).
I got some thin ali sheet and formed an airbox. Just waiting for some carb rubbers to attache it to the carbs.
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The Ashby Jackson fleet:-
1979 Mini Clubman 1.8 K series 1978 Skoda 110r Project 130RS K-oupe 1978 Austin Allegro 1500 SDL Estate 1984 BMW K100 Sidecar outfit 1999 Yamaha FZS 1000 Fazer 1991 Kawasaki ZXR400 race bike 2002 Kawasaki ZX9r race bike
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jikovron
Part of things
mechanical chaos
Posts: 633
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the felicia manifold does indeed clear everything,,and gives it a nice angle to run under the sump,,however,,, just as a suggestion i notice 4 cylinder motor cycles all seem to come with enough exhaust material to make a nice flowing long primary 4 into 1 which i'm hoping to try myself as the 1400 doesnt seem to like the felly system i made up for mine which i guess is the manifold and downpipe being resttrictive
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May 16, 2010 17:14:02 GMT
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Hmm food for thought there.
It stands to reason that if I am making my own intake, I could make my own exhaust manifold too!
Thanks for all the info Kieran. Looks like we will be engine bling buddies lol! I have a fairly long box at home (fnar!) but I also have access to lots of ali sheet etc so could also do that, although I don't have access to a welder able to do ali. Perhaps some thin steel would do the job.
I was wondering about making an air box for the car intakes that then extends out into the back of the engine bay and up to the boot lid. It might then be possible to fit a panel filter into the box and cut lovres in the boot lid. That way giving a nice volume of air to the carbs whilst getting a nice cold air.
Lots of possibilites really. I will get the engine into the car first then start working on the finer details.
Any other tips on getting the bike carbs happy would be greatly recieved.
Lewis
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May 16, 2010 18:41:22 GMT
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Hello there, been watching this for a while and I think the car looks great. How about vents in the rear boot li fed towards the carbs.
All the best Jay. 1966 Skoda with mid mounted 1.8 k series engine..
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May 16, 2010 18:58:18 GMT
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Hi there.
Please show me/us your car, sounds like a hoot!
Lewis
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Kieran
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,092
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May 16, 2010 21:35:31 GMT
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I made my airbox from 0.8 ali sheet and rivetted it together. I'll take a piccy at somepoint. Just need the rubbers to complete, using our lasses tights at the minute which are less than ideal and keep getting sucked in or holing...... You need a bike throttle cable really (I think mine came from a Suzuki GS500 twin off of eBay), and connect it to the skud throttle cable. The Skoda throttle pedal ratio seems to mate up fairly well giving a quick (but not overly quick) action. Give Bog Bros a ring regarding initial jetting, they are very knowledgeable and should give you a starting point.
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The Ashby Jackson fleet:-
1979 Mini Clubman 1.8 K series 1978 Skoda 110r Project 130RS K-oupe 1978 Austin Allegro 1500 SDL Estate 1984 BMW K100 Sidecar outfit 1999 Yamaha FZS 1000 Fazer 1991 Kawasaki ZXR400 race bike 2002 Kawasaki ZX9r race bike
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May 23, 2010 18:53:00 GMT
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Thanks for the info. I managed a bit more work this weekend. Not much work on the car, but spent most the time repainting my hallway. Its not big but double height over the stairs which makes acess really hard. Took about four times as long as it really should have done! Anyway First of the door cards going on. I like it! Just need some black dome head allen bolts for the edges. Then on to adding more parts to the engine. Dizzy cap and leads, alternator and brackets and engine mounts. It is a bit of a fiddle as I am mixing and matching parts from 3 different engines. Checking out the ported head and fitting a gasket. I then started looking at the intake manifold. I have some suitable sized tubes that fit the carb but the ports are smaller (bit out of perspective in the shot but you get the idea. So what I want to try is to cut slashes in the pipe and reweld to make a tapered tube. Thats all folks Lewis
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Seth
South East
MorrisOxford TriumphMirald HillmanMinx BorgwardIsabellaCombi
Posts: 15,543
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May 23, 2010 21:03:03 GMT
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Taper cutting the tube ought to work but I think you should make both cuts angled so that when you squash it in it should come in evenly and the edges match up. As you've marked, one cut edge will be longer than the other as one is parallel to the axis and the other is angled. Does that make sense? Also, if you calculate the circumference of the port in the head then you can measure how big a wedge to remove (you might well have done this) It is better for the manifold bore to be slightly smaller than the port than slightly bigger.
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Follow your dreams or you might as well be a vegetable.
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Seth - Good point on the cutting.
I have done some fag packet sums and will mark out more accurately before I cut. I think this first one will be an exrecise to see if I can actually do it well. If so I would probably scrap it and make all four in one go using lessons learned from the first one. I have loads of tube so no real worry there.
Lewis
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May 31, 2010 15:54:05 GMT
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I got a bit of work done today. Not many pictures because large chunks of metal moved so not many between pictures, just lots of me swearing and trying to figure out how the hell to put bits back on. The rear end of these cars is pritty simple and you could take the whole lot out in one piece with just a few bolts. But it would seam that when you try and put it back in piece by piece, access to certian bits is REALLY hard. Anyway. The start of the morning Gearbox prepped and ready to install DONE! As mentioned about it took a bit of time and fiddling but it is now in there. I also made a trail droop strap. It seams to work pretty well, so I will knock one up for the other side. With any luck the sump gasket for the engine will turn up tomorrow so I can fit the sump and prep the engine for installation. Lewis
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Colonelk
Posted a lot
Posts: 3,742
Club RR Member Number: 83
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May 31, 2010 18:36:43 GMT
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Looks good man that anti droop strap actually looks proper too! (I was wondering when you described it hehe)
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