79cord
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Feb 29, 2012 10:37:41 GMT
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I've been playing a little with the "nicer" '88 Integra interior. Here's the standard look complete with seats fading towards blue  (actually the paint stripped cars interior), though door & rear 1/4 trim vinyl is starting to break down from sun exposure near the windows. An '88 Civic hatch/CRX (powersteer) steering wheel quickly replaced the flat original since its deep-dish styling matched that of the dashboard better. But I still wanted to try something wilder, Its near black trim making colour matching easy; the Integras high mounted seats just didn't feel right beside those low-cut side windows. so..  I'm experimenting with a locally made 1970's SAAS deep-dish leather steering wheel ( updated with '3d carbon effect' vinyl film upon spokes) mounted upon a 1g Civic steering wheel boss.. currently mocked up with a Nescafe coffee jar lid horn-push-center to reconstruct And a pair of cheap, lightweight 1-piece fiberglass 'race' seats. I'm still mocking up their mountings and might use a set of Daewoo? seat tracks since they lock upon both sides where the Integra's only lock on one. (better for a potentialy flexible seat). I might also treat these with '3d carbon effect' vinyl film upon their exposed fiberglass. They do still create a bit of a problem since they don't bend for access to the rear seat area.. but I've wanted some forever & they do clamp you in properly... not aware of any solutions !? Other temptations include a large custom centre console between the seats and up to the dash following an original design sketch. And black-yellow or (I'd prefer black-red) houndstooth cloth over the grey portions of door-trims & seat centres that I have seen at a local shop. |
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Last Edit: Aug 25, 2020 11:18:02 GMT by 79cord
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79cord
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,617
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Mar 10, 2012 10:50:35 GMT
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Difficult times.
The neighbors/council finally complained about the number of cars residing in the front yard, regardless of the fact they aren't readily on display thanks to a nice frontage of mature Camellias & other plants. Admittedly I would rather have some of them better sheltered but they were forced out by plans to rebuild/repair/enlarge my narrow old steel garage/shed that had stalled first due to lack of a job/money, the distraction of sorting a few cars & those that were too good to miss out on, then by an exhausting, underpaid 'temporary' job that used up all my motivation just getting up every morning, buoyed only by some silly? purchases. My life was stagnating messily. So the front yard & drive was at full capacity with 3 Integra, 2 Accord, a Parts Prelude, 2 Honda Z, A Subaru Sherpa (bought in case a Z needed alternative drivetrain) and a friends (abandoned?) Holden Commodore. The Accords road registered with a Z & integra almost ready should finances allow it.
So the council sought to enforce By-laws allowing only 2 unregistered vehicles on the property (including those garaged, & potentially also my various Honda 90's & their parts donors). I also still had my '81 Prelude & S600 project in the shed, a rusty damaged 'parts' S600 body and 4 terminally rusty air-cooled Z covered by steel sheeting in the back yard. So donors & projects that I would find hard to give up or replace if forced to do so.
As a result I have been madly trying to organize things and have taken some time off work to do so (what a relief, it has been making my life miserable & I was at breaking point).
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Last Edit: Mar 10, 2012 10:51:54 GMT by 79cord
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79cord
Posted a lot
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Mar 10, 2012 13:29:53 GMT
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 Time to move out; I bought an unregistered vehicle permit from the roads authorities to allow a day or two of restricted road use to drive the Integras to my parents property (20 acres) until I could register or shelter them properly. Naturally the roughest of these, having started without problem the week before decided it didn't want to leave, running extremely roughly as though on two cylinders then refusing to start at all. I drove the other two away before spending a frustrating day trying to start the last. It had been sitting unstarted with a near empty tank for more than a year but had started readily when tested on an extremely hot day, but now would not. Fresh fuel was added to no avail and a friend wondered if the old remaining fuel might have gone off so we drained the tank with no change. It simply would not run. So I was forced to concede defeat, borrowing sisters frightening Toyota Landcruiser and rent a trailer to transport it and the terminally rusty little Subaru Sherpa (660cc 2cyl variant of Justy/Rex that also would not start & has a suspect CV joint ) the following week (another full day). The non starting of both still has to be resolved...  At least this meant a got to have a drive of the other two Integra and my Vtec CR-X (that mother normally drives) in between.   This was actually the first time I had a chance to drive the '88 Integra having bought it inoperative, and had refitted the original drivers seat but retained the little SAAS steering wheel giving it weighty steering when not power assisted at slow speeds. This matched its heavy cable actuated clutch (the Accords being hydraulic & so light you'd initially think it didn't do anything), though unfortunately the drive revealed the clutch is probably on its way out & starting to slip on acceleration  , it was still nice to savor the elastic D16 (1.6l 16v DOHC) engine with its revvy nature. It may deliver 120hp but it builds up to it gently & consistently, and lacks my '79 Accords urge off the line which makes the most of its meager 80hp (1.6l SOHC) with an overweight flywheel and wide spread of gears with especially low 1st & 2nd (by contrast the '77 has less torque & flywheel with more evenly spaced gears for a slightly revvier feel in spite of longer stroke). It was also interesting to notice people taking the Integra far more seriously (than the beige or white Accords and even the grey CR-X), with its red hue, sporting '80's wedge styling and pop-up lights. Driving the CR-X was a reminder of how impressive the Vtec B16 power delivery is for the same capacity. With its high 1st, close-ratio gearing and possibly weighed down by options it's nothing special off the line, and hard to do so quickly without being obvious but the power just keeps building with a really lustful amount of torque above 5500 and 150hp... Even if it must be admitted the extra weight of this engine and additional options of it being the top spec. CR-X mean it isn't really any faster than the D16 CR-X. Annoying that I must do something about its habit of slipping out of 4th gear when not under power... and the inoperative AntiLockBrakes... Experiencing the 2nd gen Integra is undoubtedly distorted by the fact I bought it without a rear muffler... it's surprisingly quiet at idle, but as revs rise... Ooh it can sound nice. Fitted with the non-vtec B18 (1.8l 16v DOHC stroked from the B16. 130bhp), there's no lusty surge of extra torque at high revs, nor high redline but a consistent spread of power and gear ratios that makes me think I was right in thinking of it to empower an Accord without sacrificing its old character. Though I wish it had a hydraulic clutch like the 3rd gen Integra g/box! My friend sold the Commodore to a friend-of-a-friend for scrap money. Space again. I was also finally able to relocate some LARGE windows intended for the shed rebuild off the drive for shed access and dig/cut out a large tree stump adjacent allowing me to extent the old shed a metre or so longer... not the rebuilt wanted/intended/needed but with some reorganizing it should be enough to squeeze the two Z (4' wide) into the shed, and I might as well cram all the insulation materials intended for the shed rebuild back into its roof and off the long buried 2nd '81 Prelude project to get things looking vaguely respectable. As soon as I can I'd like the register to purple Z to satisfy council as well (cheaper than Integra), which would be great even though I had intended to wait until after I could restore it properly... But still a few other requirements to worry about first. All the Honda 90 spares, parts and parts bikes have now been crammed into a disintegrating garden shed... not sure whether to temporarily relocate the proper 90's to fathers or not. |
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Last Edit: Aug 22, 2014 13:26:58 GMT by 79cord
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79cord
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,617
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Mar 14, 2012 11:26:04 GMT
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 Towing the stubborn Integra to the parents on the rental trailer... which was almost too big for the little Sherpa; A front wheel almost fell through the middle! Honda Z make them look ridiculous.  I still haven't mentioned a few of my cars on here and this is one of them; actually one of a set of four seriously rusty examples I had bought several years ago when I first looked at getting a Honda Z. This being the worst. I had thought one of the four might be salvageable and the rest were thrown in for "free" (but I had to get them a considerable distance home), but the more I looked the more rust & filler I found (not surprising since these had lived right beside the ocean for a decade or two). Hence the purchase of the other two air-cooled Z shown earlier (even though I had got the rarer water-cooled example in the meantime). At least the regular travels to collect these disasters led my to buying the "good" Honda S600 project from the same old guy.. It still wasn't cheap but he had paid considerably more for it in similar condition. Back to this dead Z. With the big clean-up on I figured I had better dismember this corpse. The sills were already gone & the floors falling out, the passenger door and bonnet had fallen off when opened so I set to work with the hammer & chisel.     I may as well leave this assembly intact for storage. Minus rusty metal the rest of the trimmings are stored away in rusty yellow behind. I had to get out the hacksaw for trimming some areas of the strut towers. Still wondering if I should be keeping small obscure bits of the body since I know even my good ones are rusty. Now assembling a small (probably too small) shed around the others. Rusty red prelude originally bought to convert one of my Preludes from Hondamatic to 5-speed  I probably will have to dismember this one next, since it's definitely dead, though it has provided useful parts storage. & I will have to find somewhere to put all the bits...  Here's the completely striped, dented & seriously rusty S600 body & chassis collected to accompany my "good" one, and it's an early one too with rear indicators added locally rather than incorporated into the main lamps and a tubular steel rear chassis rails rather than pressed steel like later ones. It may be dead but I can still fantasize about resurrecting it as a custom/modified car & it may yet provide some bits for the better car so I don't want to give it up.. but how to store it away? I was thinking of making up a simple frame to bolt through its chassis mountings so it could be tilted on its side to fit in the shed but unfortunately all the bolts to join the body & chassis are missing & I don't know their bolt sizes/thread pitch, and the factory parts books Bolt A/B/C isn't much help. M 8 & M 10 bolts seem close but the captive nuts in the body mountings are rusty & stubborn, and I don't want to force things, especially when nuts & screws on this car may well be of an obscure 1960's Japanese Industrial Standard metric which sometimes featured unusual thread pitch. So I've stalled upon that idea. |
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79cord
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,617
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Oct 25, 2012 10:22:44 GMT
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Been a while since I updated this! Rusty stripped S600 was bolted back to its chassis and after giving up upon using the same mounting points to bolt another frame to it I welded some attachment/location brackets to some L-shaped lengths of a steel trampoline frame supplemented by some large "U" bolts to secure the frame to some chassis rails and more attachments to door-striker mounts & pedal-box mounts.. Allowing me to tip the body upon its side supported by the frame, lift it onto another low "trolley" frame and push it compactly to the side of the "1-1/2 car" garage alongside the 'good' S600. The two good Z360 tightly parked in front of it (4' wide each), and the garage lengthened slightly as mentioned before to accommodate the project '81 Prelude as well. Desperately need a proper '4-car' garage to try & squeeze 7 cars into! Still haven't dismembered the red Prelude... it's being used for storage & I'd need somewhere else to put the bits, but the re-organization allowed discreet parking down the length of the drive... I should also add this link to a thread I had started on here a while ago whilst considering some '70's stripe ideas for the Accord... retrorides.proboards.com/index.cgi?action=display&board=general&thread=134032&page=1Though I still haven't applied any. |
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Last Edit: Oct 25, 2012 10:52:53 GMT by 79cord
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79cord
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,617
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Oct 25, 2012 10:41:35 GMT
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Bought some window tint film. Sounds a little off topic like that. But summers just about here. I have been meaning to do it for years but didn't want the standard Black tint that could be found easily, preferring a more distinctive & hopefully subtle tint like factory tints of the '50's & '60's of blue or green. My '77 needs it even more than my '79 since Honda's factory blue tint didn't arrive until '78 models and its interior has suffered as a result with tan door trims fading to pink as well as the usual cracked dash. Having noticed cheap tint shops didn't seem to bother with anything but black here, I've finally bought some film via Ebay in a reflective green in the clearest tint I could find; 51% Vis. Light Transmission ( I think you can go as dark as 35% VLT here)  I may have failed upon the subtlety idea, it seems very reflective and doesn't look anywhere as green as their Ebay picture suggested but should certainly look distinctive... I hope I like the look since I bought enough to do 2 Accord, 2 Lancia Beta, a Prelude & Z ... As well as some boring black for CR-X & Integra!  Unfortunately my new job doing CAD design for some Toyota lights seems to have stalled after only a few weeks so I may have some time to attempt applying the film very soon as I look for another job. '77 will be first as drivers window has been replaced before & needs adjustment. I also found out why the horn wasn't working after several weeks half-hearted investigation including removing steering wheel to check electrical contacts... Seems the brake lights weren't working either & they both shared the same fuse ( just as well the car doesn't get much use!) and despite the glass fuse looking fine (obviously I'd checked that first), It turned out that had failed. Drove my '81 Prelude home from storage at my parents since it needs D/shaft gaiters replacing... Rust bubbles starting upon sills, near sunroof & tail-lamps as well as Wiper mounting area already attacked before. Aside from Xmas Hail damage... so lots of attention needed there.. Replaced its water pump last month to rid engine of periodic unhealthy clattering noises. Glad I had a spare pre'80 style pulley with smaller bolt pattern to suit the water pump.  '79 Accord now at (2?)98,000 km so I think I better plan for timing belt replacement soon. I've also gone bought a new clutch I'll have to fit to the nice '88 Integra and a simple tulip shaped carbon-fiber g-stick knob to match the carbon effect s-wheel & proposed seats. But still haven't driven it beyond the Parents drive since, not having enough money to register it for the road yet.. and with less than a year remaining before it turns 25 & is eligible for lower cost Classic/Historic registration for cars used less than 45-90 days per year it seems increasingly hard to justify doing so given I don't want to relinquish the old '79 from regular duties yet. |
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79cord
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,617
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Time for some maintenance.
Getting the Prelude home I had to do some thing about a small tear in one of its Driveshaft CV joint boots So bought one from the local parts store ($18), along with a timing belt & waterpump for my '89 CR-X SiR (Vtec) having realized mum has driven it to 205,000km...Belt overdue.
Drained g/box, dismantled Frt suspension & removed D/shaft to find its inboard boot was looking rather old as well so collected another boot. Dismantled D/shaft to find that amid the grease the bearing cage of the outboard CV joint was actually fractured & missing a piece! I rang a local d/shaft reconditioners & went to visit @4:30pm & to my surprise they suggested they'd have it rebuilt for me in 30 min! for $80
Returning later they apologized that they could not rebuild my old shaft but had another rebuilt original shaft for me for $100, also mentioning that my old shaft was slightly different near its ends, tapered instead of squared.. I had been wondering why they were unusual.. They certainly knew their stuff.. & to put the likelyhood of them having the correct d/shaft for me in perspective, they are handed L/R, were unique to the Prelude (here {though apparently also used in USA spec '81 Accords}) and used only for 1981 & 1982!
So Prelude now back in use & I had to return the D/shaft boots I'd ordered...
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Last Edit: Nov 3, 2012 9:11:24 GMT by 79cord
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79cord
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,617
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Also dismantled my Accords revolving-drum digital clock as it had stopped working to find it had stripped one of its nylon gears.
I swapped in another clock from in '78 parts car to find that too was inoperative, so dismantled that as well to find if its gear was still good... Though externally nearly identical this turned out to have been substantially redesigned within so gears not interchangeable..
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79cord
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,617
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Nov 15, 2012 13:42:18 GMT
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Well I've got one clock working & installed in the Accord, whirring away once every minute to display time as it should. Having glued new cog tabs to its revolving acrylic drums. Unfortunately another with the same problem also seems to have some electrical problems working intermittently perhaps cleaning its contacts may help? Since the '77 could do with a clock (not standard 'till '78). Still have 3rd clock that had stripped a nylon Cog I am trying to re-tooth with superglue... though not confident of success.
I've replaced a split inboard driveshaft CV joint boot/gaiter in-situ on the CR-X to avoid draining G/box & installed new timing belt upon the CR-X. Not so easy. Remove PWR steering pump to relocate its hoses for access to belt tensioners. An alternator mtg nut was ridiculously tight & possibly compounded by a worn socket, ended up having to be cut off with a Dremmel.
An upper engine mounting bolt had also not been fastened properly & its threads damaged, so this had to be replaced, the mount removed & its threads re-tapped.
A special tool was required to hold the crankshaft so it's end pulley bolt could be un-done, so I arranged to borrow one a friend had made. Unfortunately his tool was somewhat oversize requireing a socket extension -allowing too much angular movement for the long bar I was using to turn it...resulting in broken socket (friend only uses impact wrench). I bought a 51mm hex-head nut and welded a steel bar to this to make my own, slightly smaller tool, tried out my own impact wrench followed by the socket & long bar to finally get the crankshaft end pulley off. Removed cam-cover for belt access & since a camshaft end-cap seal was leaking & rock hard a new one was bought ($26) & fitted while at it... really should have inquired about a cam-cover seal set as well, sealed the old ones with a skim of silicone sealant so hope they hold oil... Each of these problem usually entailed a trip from the parents (where CR-X was kept), back to my place (45min away) for more tools/parts.
An oiled foam air filter installed many years ago had disintegrated so I took the plunge & ordered a proper K&N washable filter since the original was specific to Vtec CR-X which were not sold here new & hence not readily available so mine was ordered from the UK & Ebay.
Oil changed, radiator cap & spark plugs replaced, valve clearances adjusted so hopefully all will be well.
Unfortunately I started poking around the Prelude & opened up a large rust hole alongside its windscreen wiper mount.. this will probably want windscreen removing to rectify.. Also found it reluctant to reach 5,000 revs so think I will have to replace the vacuum tubes that open the second throat of its carburetor.
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Last Edit: Nov 15, 2012 13:49:48 GMT by 79cord
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79cord
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,617
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Finally painted the '77's dowdy rusty wheels.   I went for a darker grey instead of the original bright silver but it's really strange how much the colour changes with light, sometimes looking far darker than others, with my camera really exaggerating the contrast & making it look darker than it is. I emphatically did not want black. I also repainted the hub-cap centre bright orange-red for added flair and thought I'd try putting red-lines on the tires. Next time I'll try doing it with a brush rather than spraying through an ill-fitting stencil   Just the back tyre done so far. I'm not convinced the red stripe was a good idea but I'm really happy with the darker wheel & brighter hub-cap logo, exaggerating the wheels offset nicely & giving the car a subtle flair befitting it's character. It's not a boring car to drive. |
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ukteg
Part of things
Posts: 39
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what a handfull you got there - love all the tegs, one day ill import a 3door
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winners never quit & quitters never win Rolling round the world in my G1 Integra Changing the face of Detailing www.teamworxstyling.co.uk |
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79cord
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,617
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Oh dear I've bought another disaster: 1977 HONDA ACCORD SF NO RESERVE AUTOMATIC CLASSIC RARE HATCH DAMAGED FRONT | eBay  This cropped up upon Ebay with no reserve and since most of its body looked reasonably respectable, and knowing that I have some bits that could save it I was weak at the thought that anything selling for less than $200 was likely to bought by someone interested only in its scrap metal value. But I thought of my old '79 Accord after an altercation with a ditch, where I had the structure expensively & professionally repaired after providing a replacement front. The inner guard being pulled straight and the first 50cm? of front rail replaced along with Radiator support, and thought this too might be saved. Obviously I will always have a weakness for the early Accord hatch and have some spare parts that many wouldn't, and others to reference & copy. It isn't good. NO rust, rear quite good, but well used/worn, split seats & dash, the first foot of its left front rail badly crushed and the minor subframe (mounting an engine mount, sway-bar & frt trailing arm) attached to it pushed back an inch or two. Now that I have it home though I am kicking myself for not noticing other aspects of the cars damage earlier. Such as engine mountings torn from the cast iron block and movement of the body structure opening up the door gap at the top of the A-pillar by about a cm, with other associated small dents in odd places like the cowl I don't think that would be easy to rectify & haven't tried such before, though the car has nothing to loose if there were any way I could try. Still amazingly NO rust considering it's accident occurred in '04 and that its (1st) owner held on to in until 2013! Though it has suffered a poor quality albeit shiny repaint so its panels aren't as straight as they first appear drowned in spray filler, many small dents and bodges like hand sewn repairs to the upholstery, mismatched paint daubed on DEEP paint chips, rear bumper mounted upside down, supplemental switches for engine thermofan, an assortment of different headlight brands etc. It even came with an undesirable Japanese spec., emmissions oriented EF CVCC cylinder head & manifolds in the back so has that engine block in it from a Japanese 2nd hand parts importer many years ago. And I don't think I would be patient enough to cope with it's 2-speed Hondamatic transmission either, having always driven 5-speeds. Most disappointing. I guess I just got excited at the thought of saving a car that few others could/would, though that seems less likely now unless the cabin can be straightened. - -   I already had this sad '78 scrapper, that I made the mistake of buying before finding out it had no syncromesh on 2nd gear and the left rear 1/4 was heavily drowned in body filler after a substantial rear impact had corrugated the car (note tow bar), Aside from many other obvious faults. I don't hold great hopes if it's tow bar had transferred loads straight into the rear rails. It's 'repairers' had attempted to push the back rearward from the inner 'b'-pillar denting that up in an attempt to straighten the corrugated rear 1/4 before it was body fillered (still bowed outwards).. with yet more damage being added after that, both front and rear. |
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Last Edit: Feb 12, 2013 6:31:18 GMT by 79cord
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unitybonez
Part of things
Blowing Pintos
Posts: 870
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Feb 14, 2013 17:32:43 GMT
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Are those axles chain driven? What an amazingly crazy set up! Also, i noticed a Rover hatch in another post where you mentioned you bought the rear glass for the Integra. Whats the secret in that?  |
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Sent from my ouiji board.
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unitybonez
Part of things
Blowing Pintos
Posts: 870
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Feb 14, 2013 17:34:04 GMT
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Oh and BTW. I'd love to own one of your 70s Hondas. They have such a huge potential and they're a rare as frekk sight, which is always a bonus.
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Sent from my ouiji board.
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79cord
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,617
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Yep, wild rear suspension for the S600; though should be arranged this way:  with the differential mounted right behind the seats & chains within the rear arms to give independent rear suspension. Probably made more sense for the proposed, but abandoned S360 versions.   mizma.tuzikaze.com/sports360/tas260_red_side.jpg(seems you might have to go to this site before it will display side picture) mizma.tuzikaze.com/sports360/s360_daisuu.htmlwhich would have had to be 10cm narrower & 30cm shorter for Japans kei-car tax category of the time... (1.3x3.0m total). This would have allowed room for a spare tyre & luggage despite the abbreviated rear.  Honda switched to a 5-link live axle for durability after they enlarged its DOHC 4-carburettor engine to 800cc for 1966. |
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Last Edit: Aug 25, 2020 11:45:08 GMT by 79cord
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79cord
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,617
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Last Edit: Feb 16, 2013 6:58:54 GMT by 79cord
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unitybonez
Part of things
Blowing Pintos
Posts: 870
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Ah, makes sense now, thats a great way to save space and quite a briliant engineering feat the way I see it. Sure it makes for more possible stuff to fail, but....
And thanks for the Rover enlightment, after seeing your picture and seeing a couple of those 4 door 413s I couldnt help noticing the similarity.
Edit. I just googled the Rover and I was quite amazed in dscovering that many of them were Honda based, the 200, 400, and 800 series all were.
Good to know, they are cheap enuff over here and can be found as opposite to the real deal Hondas.
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Sent from my ouiji board.
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79cord
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,617
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Yes Triumph Acclaim was Honda Civic Ballade but almost every panel of Ballade was different from the normal Civic sedan.
And Honda Quint(et) was its bigger brother based upon the same floorpan but with Accord engine. Similarly Integra were always based upon Civic floorpans.
Too be fair though Rover often made many changes with their own drivetrains, interiors, detail design & even swapped front struts for Honda's double wishbones in the R8 200/400.
I keep looking at the Manx tailed S360 thinking it would be amazing to build a replica with more modern motorbike engine from that scrap rusty S600 shell.. Though don't have spare rear-end for it & wouldn't be confident giving it that much power either.
Have to get the proper s600 rebuilt first anyway!
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Last Edit: Feb 18, 2013 9:54:59 GMT by 79cord
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79cord
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,617
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Feb 25, 2013 10:38:34 GMT
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Just went to the Ballarat swap meet camping with friends for the weekend; huge as usual. Bought another '77 Accord mirror (must tighten mine, but they are usually 'self-folding' for aero-efficiency at speed anyway) and some '70's style aftermarket mirrors (like sebring but on stalks) in chrome and in black for $3 each, a $10 extractor exhaust manifold for a Prelude I don't own.. and a LH frt fender ($10) and indicator ($4) for fathers '82 Subaru Leone sedan that needs repairs, just bought same indicator from wrecker last week for $45 but still want a GOOD bonnet having paid $60 last wk for a rough one. One friend suggested he had a Portapower tool that may assist in straightening portions of the latest acquisition. Unfortunately another suggested he had a sporting old Honda for sale for $300... A classic JDM model that was never sold here by Honda Aust. and of much better spec. than the majority of those built, which had sold more upon efficient commuting. Unsurprisingly Rust will be involved. Don't tell, I must finish Dads Subaru & dismember rusty red Prelude to make room. |
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Last Edit: Feb 25, 2013 10:55:36 GMT by 79cord
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79cord
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,617
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May 26, 2013 12:47:08 GMT
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It's finally here! My newest problem project alluded to in the last post. I've been waiting impatiently for its arrival for months now after agreeing to buy it & leaving a $100 deposit whilst I tried to prepare for it by finishing repairs to Dad's '83 Subaru Leone: Which is now straight, complete & drivable though I still have strip, weld-up, grind, hammer, filler & generally prepare the mistreated replacement bonnet for paint. I'll return the car to Dad in the meantime.  A 1987 JDM 1st generation Honda CR-X imported to Australia in 1995 by a local Honda parts importer/wrecker since Honda Australia had decided not to import them when new.. so always a rare car here. Obviously the last 18years since have not treated it kindly though and a friend of a friend had bought it partially disassembled a few years ago for $400 before getting distracted & leaving it in his shed. In the end I gave him the same amount since he had even offered to deliver it from Ballarat to Melbourne whilst asking less.  Still has the original injected 16v DOHC ZC 1.6 l engine & 5-speed with PwrSteering & Air-con after 240,000km & runs. Though Radiator was residing in the boot due to supposed leaks and it was delivered on a trailer.  Bonnet currently unbolted & the plastic (ABS/PC) front guards & header panel are a bit of a disaster with cracks right through all over the place... Probably not easy to find good replacements here so hope I can glue/plastic weld them back together. Corner lamps currently on the floor & hopefully Ok though do have a minor 'internal' crack in the lens that will hopefully disappear with some solvent & polishing once dis-assembled? Would love some European spec. tinted ones in preference to the orange/white JDM spec. though. Might need to replace right headlight lens due to a small stone chip, same as Civic hatchback?  Rubber rear spoiler also a mess with rusty internal mountings. Bumper split under No. plate mounting & generally not fitting well, with small metal strip above not looking great either. Not a fan of the bland '90's aftermarket 15" wheels either, so I'm glad I have a spare set of the original cheeky '80's CR-X 4-spot "button" wheels as fitted to my Prelude, even if they need refurbishing, tyres and are an inch smaller.  Some rust evident at left wheelarch & (inoperative) steel sunroof but I already know far worse is hiding under its plastic sill skirts with the front jacking point having collapsed..... At least I have a MIG welder, though it's winter & I still don't have shed space to work in so it might be a little while until I can attack it properly. Did it really have to be METALLIC Black though, what a pain.  Yes scruffy, torn, worn & mouldy. Horrible gearstick knob won't last long & I have already got a replacement in mind... Though 'clever' people have destroyed the original mounting thread. Cut-off, drill & tap for a length of all-thread? Makes me appreciate they retained the original steering wheel! I saw some reasonable black '88 Prelude seats in a local wrecker yesterday of a similar shape so I hope I can get them soon, and that they will fit? I am however tempted to source some pre-facelift door trims & interior handles that a friend may have, which continue the wrap-around upper dash trim theme better than the facelift does.  Hilarious token rear seat.. I haven't tried sitting in it yet but will admit that the rear seat in my '89 CR-X SiR was fine for moderate distances. I'm not sure how they managed to compliance it as a 4-seater though since it only has lap-belts without shoulder-belt mountings as our local rules would have required. Similarly local rules would have required a restriction in the fuel filler neck for smaller unleaded-fuel filler nozzles that is absent.. along with original filler-cap retaining features; hence an un-identified filler neck is sitting on the passenger floor. Missing an interior rear lamp access cover. So a bit of a project ahead of me.. & it is obvious early CR-X have a very rusty reputation overseas.. Near inevitable I suppose when Sunroof are involved. |
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Last Edit: May 16, 2020 11:17:10 GMT by 79cord
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, it was still nice to savor the elastic D16 (1.6l 16v DOHC) engine with its revvy nature. It may deliver 120hp but it builds up to it gently & consistently, and lacks my '79 Accords urge off the line which makes the most of its meager 80hp (1.6l SOHC) with an overweight flywheel and wide spread of gears with especially low 1st & 2nd (by contrast the '77 has less torque & flywheel with more evenly spaced gears for a slightly revvier feel in spite of longer stroke). 
