ant1
Part of things
Posts: 163
|
|
Oct 24, 2009 21:05:10 GMT
|
|
hello mate, i don't come on here very often, but have just spent over an hour reading some of this, extreemely interesting, I'm 16 (almost 17) and have almost finished building my mini for my first road car, nothinbg too mad just stripped out, lowered, stage 1 and full bare metal respray in black and white , ive built a couple of trikes, built all the chassis etc myself , and do love a good bit of metal bashing, i would be doing something like you are doing now if i had any hope of ever getting insured ...
where abouts in essex are you ? I'm in wickford? would like to meet you at some stage, this is a very interesting project you have !
keep up the good work mate !!
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Oct 25, 2009 19:40:03 GMT
|
Finally I've taken the time to read through the entire thread and I am not disappointed.  Many people take too many shortcuts with their hot rods so they end up looking like curse word. Obviously, that's not the case with you. I really like this build. |
| |
194? Willys Jeep MB 1965 Volvo 544 Special 1968 Opel Rekord 1975 Opel Kadett Estate 1985 Mercedes-Benz 230E 1985 Datsun 720 King Cab 4x4 diesel 1997 Volvo S70 2.5SE (ex. "Volvo544special65" - changed to more reader friendly username.  ) |
|
Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
|
|
Oct 28, 2009 10:35:50 GMT
|
sounds like youre on the right track though mate- build your skillz on lowlier cars/projects (where its not as expensive if you do f**k up!) then in a few years once youve got the confidence and skills (and probably the funds too), start on something a bit more special/rare/expensive. its how i started out, restored a 1950 BSA bantam as my first major project, with assistance/guidance form my grandad. within a couple of years my skills (hes never leart to mig weld) and knowledge of certain cars had surpassed his, and i was working on all kinds of stuff, but mostly VWs. by that time i knew what i was doing a lot more, so i wouldnt try to do stupid 'fashion mods' to this car when i got hold of it. i found having the guidance of someone whos 'been there, done that' is one of the most important things to have when leaning. and as you say, because of the timescale involved when its finished ile be able to insure it no problem- although as its such a specialist vehicle, insurance tends to be quite low anyway as the owners tend to cherish them, so they're quite low risk. although ive only jsut turned 25, i feel like an old fart now compared to you young guys coming through! but don't go wishing your life away cos you cant insure what you want to build just yet- why not build something like a volksrod- a large part of their appeal is they can be insured for the same price as a stock beetle, but can still be made to have the look- plus youll gain no end of skillz chopping it up, repairing rust, etc. on what is essentially a pretty cheap car, with loads of parts backup. I'm near colchester, and youre welcome to come up and have a look/shoot the curse word if you like. hello mate, I don't come on here very often, but have just spent over an hour reading some of this, extreemely interesting, I'm 16 (almost 17) and have almost finished building my mini for my first road car, nothinbg too mad just stripped out, lowered, stage 1 and full bare metal respray in black and white , ive built a couple of trikes, built all the chassis etc myself , and do love a good bit of metal bashing, I would be doing something like you are doing now if I had any hope of ever getting insured ... where abouts in essex are you ? I'm in wickford? would like to meet you at some stage, this is a very interesting project you have ! keep up the good work mate !! |
| |
|
|
Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
|
|
Oct 28, 2009 10:40:50 GMT
|
nope, 3 years in and theres definatley no shortcuts happening!! no point rushing stuff and it not being right, and me having to redo it all. progress may not be as fast as some, but thats largely because I'm not really using any aftermarket parts- so as well as making parts, I'm having to design them too! ive got pages and pages of drawing and sketches and templates for all the bits ive made, to figure out the best way of doing everything. Finally I've taken the time to read through the entire thread and I am not disappointed. Many people take too many shortcuts with their hot rods so they end up looking like curse word. Obviously, that's not the case with you. I really like this build. |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Oct 28, 2009 11:38:21 GMT
|
|
Great, now you're making me want to built a volksrod.
|
| |
|
|
Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
|
|
|
|
Great, now you're making me want to built a volksrod. doo it! ive had a hand in a couple now, not to mention the chopped and channelled '50 split window ive got that ile finish off one day, probly once the A is done. they're a good place to hone skills. oh, and I'm uploading pics for a good update now  |
| |
|
|
Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
|
|
|
|
ok. this is the biggest update for a while. 30 pics, all uploaded on dailup too! I'm really really pleased with what ive just got done. had this idea kicking around for months if not years, so its great to have it done in the metal. this mostly concerns how the hell I'm gunna make the brakes work on this thing. the issue is, ive got feck all space in the footwell, a common problem on 28-29s as the cowl is about 6-8" narrower at the front than on a 30-31. plus my gearbox is quite large, sits reasonably far back, has the starter motor gear cover on this side (at least its motor side starter!), theres the steering box+ mountings there cos its cowl steer, theres the chassis kickup hidden just behind the firewall, and the whole area isnt that tall cos of the channelling. it doesnt help ive got big old feet either. these couple of pics I took to try to illustrate this- ![]() img.photobucket.com/albums/v617/dezaster/A sedan/DSC00475.jpg[/IMG] ![]() img.photobucket.com/albums/v617/dezaster/A sedan/DSC00476.jpg[/IMG] but fear not dear reader, as id come up with a nifty way to sort all these conundrums out, plus tick a few other issues off the list at the same time. in reality, it all started back with the upright for mounting the cowl steering to. as with most things I make, its not just going to provide the function of mounting my steering box solidly and securely. but for it to provide its other functions, it needs an opposite number to tag-team up with. so, on with making the sharky to its george...... ever one to make life difficult for myself, I decided that the one for the other side wasnt going to be straight. so this is were I simply do 2 45deg. mitre cuts and weld em up to step it over, yeah?  come on, you should know better than that by now!!! ;D take one interestingly shaped offcut of standard chassis box steel (50x100x3), and draw a lot of lines on it- ![]() img.photobucket.com/albums/v617/dezaster/A sedan/DSC00437.jpg[/IMG] then, cut this bit out , and bend like so(notice paper template, you can guess where this is going......). notice where its cut- the bevelled edge is left attached to the inner side, then notched everyone/4" to allow it to bend round smoothly. this way you keep the same chamfer on the edge of the tube when its done. ![]() img.photobucket.com/albums/v617/dezaster/A sedan/DSC00438.jpg[/IMG] at this point I decided it would be wise to make a template to keep both bends even, and the whole thing square/straight. like so- ![]() img.photobucket.com/albums/v617/dezaster/A sedan/DSC00440.jpg[/IMG] then I marked the paper template out onto an offcut of the box, to fill the hole id made, by simply laying it one and spraying over it. probably one of the best techniques for transferring templates to metal- ![]() img.photobucket.com/albums/v617/dezaster/A sedan/DSC00441.jpg[/IMG] fast forward, and ive got the paper magically turned into metal, and tacked in, and the other bend to the same stage too, which is exactly the same, just done to the opposite side of the box section- ![]() img.photobucket.com/albums/v617/dezaster/A sedan/DSC00442.jpg[/IMG] then, I seamed it up, and decided to weld the inside too as I was going to be hitting the outer welds hard with the flap disc- ![]() img.photobucket.com/albums/v617/dezaster/A sedan/DSC00443.jpg[/IMG] then you gotta fill up the hole on the other side, thats now bigger. so you gotta find some more offcuts you can chop up to do them. again, chamfer left on the sides with notches everyone/4" to get a smooth bend on it- ![]() img.photobucket.com/albums/v617/dezaster/A sedan/DSC00445.jpg[/IMG] bending it over the hole. tacked in the centre and pulled down with a G-clamp, tacking down as you go along to get the curve smooth- ![]() img.photobucket.com/albums/v617/dezaster/A sedan/DSC00446.jpg[/IMG] and a lot of flapwheelling later, you have another sensously curved piece of steelwork- ![]() img.photobucket.com/albums/v617/dezaster/A sedan/DSC00449.jpg[/IMG] ![]() img.photobucket.com/albums/v617/dezaster/A sedan/DSC00450.jpg[/IMG] ![]() img.photobucket.com/albums/v617/dezaster/A sedan/DSC00451.jpg[/IMG] and laid over the template. looks good enough to me  ![]() img.photobucket.com/albums/v617/dezaster/A sedan/DSC00452.jpg[/IMG] |
| |
Last Edit: Jun 12, 2011 17:02:48 GMT by Dez
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
That's a beautiful thing, real craftsmanship there.
|
| |
|
|
Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
|
|
|
|
just wrote the most absolutely massive post to complete this, and my curse word shitbox computer just lost it. although i actually think its the forums fault, I'm having real trouble replying to or editing posts on this thread(like it takes 12 attempts for it to load it). so curse word off right now i cant be arsed to rewrite it. suffice to say, it was a LOT of typing  |
| |
|
|
Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
|
|
|
|
so, ive made it, but where I'm gunna put it? heres your answer- ![]() img.photobucket.com/albums/v617/dezaster/A sedan/DSC00453.jpg[/IMG] ![]() img.photobucket.com/albums/v617/dezaster/A sedan/DSC00454.jpg[/IMG] just propped in temporarily to check length and location, but I really like the way it curves up and around the bellhousing, its a very pleasing shape and whats gunna link em together? this- ![]() img.photobucket.com/albums/v617/dezaster/A sedan/DSC00461.jpg[/IMG] it needs a few things doing to it first though. in this pic, youll see the basic bits and bobs to do that. ![]() img.photobucket.com/albums/v617/dezaster/A sedan/DSC00458.jpg[/IMG] up top is a inner steering column for a pre-68 vw beetle, and the centre boss cut out of a 68-73 beetle steering wheel. I need it to be a later one as the steering wheel bosses were semi-steel construction rather than all ally like the earlier ones, so I can weld stuff to it. next, is a 25" length of 60mm dia, 2mm wall steel tube. the 2mm bit is very important, as I originally intended to use 3mm wall to match the thickness of the other tubing on the chassis, but I needed to fit some bearings inside it, and you cant get 54mm OD bearings with a 22mm ID (the diameter of the Vw steering column), only 56mm, so I had to use 2mm wall tubing. below that, is the aforementioned bearings. 22x56x16mm. not that the 16mm matters, youll see why in a bit. then, 2 waste slugs of 1/4" steel, the product of holesawing 60mm holes in something. but conveniently, they're 56mm OD, so they slip nicely inside the tube. they are going to form the endstops for the bearings. first job (after id cleaned up the ends of the tube and made sure they were dead square), is to make those bearing endstops. there purpose is to stop the bearings being able to move down inside the tube. these need to be a thin ring, as you need to be able to reach in through them to weld them on the backside inside the tube, so the welds don't get in the way of the bearings. I put a 1-3/4" (44mm) holecutter through each, leaving me with a 5mm ring of steel thats 6mm thick- ![]() img.photobucket.com/albums/v617/dezaster/A sedan/DSC00460.jpg[/IMG] then, these were tack welded in 15mm down inside the tubing, using the depth gauge function on my calipers to check they were in square- ![]() img.photobucket.com/albums/v617/dezaster/A sedan/DSC00462.jpg[/IMG] why did I say 15mm depth not 16, if the bearings are 16mm wide? cos if you put em in 15mm, the bearing sticks out by the depth of the radius on the end of it, which I think looks loads better- ![]() img.photobucket.com/albums/v617/dezaster/A sedan/DSC00463.jpg[/IMG] so the bearings now cant move inwards. I now need to stop them (or indeed the inner shaft) being able to move outwards. I'm covered at one end, as the VW column has a C-clip in a groove just below the boss. so all I need to do is fit a end-stop ring at the other end. this is simply a thick washer pushed up against the bearing, and a couple of little welds to hold it on- ![]() img.photobucket.com/albums/v617/dezaster/A sedan/DSC00464.jpg[/IMG] and this is what I got going on at the other end. simply the VW steering wheel boss with the remains of the collapsable lattice cut off so theres just the base ring, held on with the stock spring washer and nut- ![]() img.photobucket.com/albums/v617/dezaster/A sedan/DSC00465.jpg[/IMG] |
| |
Last Edit: Jun 12, 2011 17:04:41 GMT by Dez
|
|
|
|
Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
|
|
|
|
then, I had to get the second upright in the correct position. the only stright line I had running across the car at this point was the bellhousing/block joint on the motor, so I used this line and spaced out a straightedge from it using a length of bar stock, set it up level with a spirit level, and clamped it to the steering box upright, then the second upright to the straightedge. I then checked it was in totally symmetrically to the steering box upright, then welded it in. ![]() img.photobucket.com/albums/v617/dezaster/A sedan/DSC00468.jpg[/IMG] the next bit was to get the tube in at the right height, and also square side to side. it was going in with the base of it 35mm below the top of the uprights, so I had just enough metal there to use a holecutter to cut the recesses for it out. (30mm holecutter, you need more than half of it in metal to use the centre arbour to locate it, the centre arbour is 6mm so you need ot allow an extra 3mm there, and I let it have 2mm on top of that so it didnt break out when drilling that hole- 30+3+2=35mm) marking the 2 outer faces out was easy- centreline on the box section, measure down 5mm from top edge, centrepunch, spray white, let dry, then scrape on location with dividers. like this- ![]() img.photobucket.com/albums/v617/dezaster/A sedan/DSC00469.jpg[/IMG] the inner faces were more tricky, as the 2 uprights arent square to each other, as the steering box one points outwards to allign the steering box arm with the kingpin, and I insisted on fitting the other crossmember with the same degree of twist to it, so they're the 'same'. so I had to put a straightedge across between the outer edges of the 2 outer holes once they were cut, mark the outer edges, then mark the tube centres from there. this pic explains better, they're only out by a couple of mil(to the rightin pic/rear of car), but its enough for the tube to not fit if I drilled them on-centre- ![]() img.photobucket.com/albums/v617/dezaster/A sedan/DSC00470.jpg[/IMG] will finish this update tomorrow..... |
| |
Last Edit: Jun 12, 2011 17:05:27 GMT by Dez
|
|
rysz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,558
|
|
|
|
|
Hey Dez - Loving your work - true craftmanship!
If you are having problems with dialup, it may well be worth investing in a 3G Internet USB Dongle - you will get significantly better speeds on both uploading and surfing and they are not horribly expensive!
Really loving the progress on this!
Rysz.
|
| |
|
|
Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
|
|
|
|
finally got time to finish this update off! once all 4 recesses were cut, the tube drops into them. I musta marked em out well, as it fits perfectly- just a small tap with a hammer needed each end to get them to pop into the slightly over-centre holes. ![]() img.photobucket.com/albums/v617/dezaster/A sedan/DSC00472.jpg[/IMG] and this is the pic that explains it all, just like clarissa. ![]() img.photobucket.com/albums/v617/dezaster/A sedan/DSC00473.jpg[/IMG] the brake pedal will be a top swing item that mounts to the old steering wheel centre on the right, then the tube carries the force right across to the other side of the car, to where the master cyl will mount, here- ![]() img.photobucket.com/albums/v617/dezaster/A sedan/DSC00474.jpg[/IMG] which is inside the glovebox. you can see in this pic why the left hand upright needed to curve across- if it was straight, the end of it would be too near to the cowl to fit a lever arm and mount the master cyl. to show how much it curves across, the box section it is made from is 2" wide, and it curves across 4" in total, so twice the width of the end of it you can see there. as it is now, the master cyl. will mount just inside the left hand side of the glovebox. all pretty funky huh? |
| |
Last Edit: Jun 12, 2011 17:06:10 GMT by Dez
|
|
Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
|
|
|
|
its only craftsmanship if it all works at the end of it a USB 3G effort is what I'm using- mounted about 10ft up in the roof with loads of joined together usb leads! signal is greatly improved by this, but its still a bit hit and miss. if it stayed at a constant level it would be ok, but it jumps up and down all over the place. I'm on orange now, had a 3 one previously and that was just rubbish so this one is a lot better, but still not as good as they make em out to be..... more mad shapes in metal coming up soon Hey Dez - Loving your work - true craftmanship! If you are having problems with dialup, it may well be worth investing in a 3G Internet USB Dongle - you will get significantly better speeds on both uploading and surfing and they are not horribly expensive! Really loving the progress on this! Rysz. |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Genuinely, i love this thread. Its all this cool work that just makes me feel useless!!!! Ha! Fair play to you man, it'll be a shame to put a body on this stuff - have you ever thought about a perspex '28 shell.............................. |
| |
Club Retro Rides Member
|
|
stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,950
Club RR Member Number: 174
|
|
|
|
|
Uno's have that type of brake setup, but with the master cylinder in the engine bay. Have you left room to top it up?
Matt
|
| |
|
|
Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
|
|
|
|
Genuinely, I love this thread. Its all this cool work that just makes me feel useless!!!! Ha! Fair play to you man, it'll be a shame to put a body on this stuff - have you ever thought about a perspex '28 shell.............................. some days i think the thread is as much work as the car itself!! but, i keep updating it so when I'm done, i can print the whole lot out as a build diary. in the meantime it just make sense to share rather than keep it all to myself. i was talking with a visitor to my workshop the other day about doing stuff like this for it all to be then hidden away. theres always the 'yeah but ile know its there' factor that most builders mention, but something i like is when theres a car with so many details that you might not notice them all the first or even the second time, it take you seeing it a few times to fully appreciate it, and i really like cars like that. on this one, most things are visible if you look hard enough or from the right angle, and after all this work, ile certianly be happy to show people round it if they ask!! |
| |
|
|
Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
|
|
|
|
Uno's have that type of brake setup, but with the master cylinder in the engine bay. Have you left room to top it up? Matt yeah, quite a few cars do, especially ones that were originally designed as LHD, then the design tweaked for rhd, like golfs, e30 beemers, etc. most are know for being very flexy from the factory and a known problem area, hence me going totally overkill with the build of mine- its stronger than most cars steering setups of course ive thought about the fill ive got 2 options. both involve a remote reservoir, one is for it to be below the old fuel cap in the cowl and it fill through that, but i think I'm going to save that for the clutch- either that or construct a twin filler/reservoir system inside/underneath the filler neck. other option i quite fancy doing is for the reservoir to be on a little slider mech in the glovebox, and you slide it put to fill it, which would be a pretty cool touch. I'm favouring the first one so far though. |
| |
|
|
Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
|
|
|
|
just bumping this so i can find it later on to do another update |
| |
|
|
Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
|
|
|
|
another big 'ol update then, if anyones still reading...... this time, the multi-purpose rear crossmember/prop loop/ rear suspension mount tower. at some point in the dim and distant past, id moved the rear crossmember to a more appropriate location- far enough back so my seats can drop down beneath the framerails, and far enough up the kickup so it sits about level with the axle, to facilitate mounting some rear suspension to it, and to keep the back end of the chassis stiff. the only problem was, was it then caused a slight interference problem with the propshaft- I determined with my mock-up prop tube that the prop wanted to sit in a position running straight through the crossmember, at ride height. so, I needed to make my crossmember a funky shape to accomidate this, but, I also had to keep it strong and stiff, otherwise there wasnt much point it being there. also, I intened to mount the front pivot of my upper rear suspension arm(s) directly aboive the prop, so it would be handy if I coul make the crossmember the right shape to do that too. so here what I did do- first, I measured lots of things, used a straightedge or 2 to extrapolate a few lines, checked em with the spirit level, then drew another template- ![]() img.photobucket.com/albums/v617/dezaster/A sedan/DSC00477.jpg[/IMG] this should be the right shape to hold the rear suspension top pivot in the right place, not let the prop hit anything, and keep it all good and strong. best turn it into metal then. to do this, I'm using a variation on the technique used to make the other curves. but as this is a harder shape to do, it has to be done in a slightly different way. I needed to make sure the 2 legs were parallel, whist being able to bash the top curve about to get it even (its 3mm plate remember, doesnt bend that easily!), so the easiest way is to get them square and tack weld them both to another length of steel. you can bash it about lots then and it wont move, providing you can weld properly that is. it makes sure there isnt a twist to them then either too. so I cut out the section of bottom and side form the box, to leave just the legs and top loop, then tacked em down just like described- ![]() img.photobucket.com/albums/v617/dezaster/A sedan/DSC00478.jpg[/IMG] in case youre wondering, figuring out how long the bit I needed to cut out was was easy- if maths isnt your thing, look away now........ I'm making this with an inner radius of 6" to match my prop tunnel ive already got figured out inside the car. so if I'm using 4" tubing (yeah I know its 100mm, but for this, its close enough), I then have the outer radius of 14". it forms a perfect 180deg loop, so pi x D would give me the circumfrence, then half it, and I got my measurement. (i think it was about 11" from memory) easy! so once thats done and ive bashed it to an even curve, I simply laid in on a sheet of 3mm plate, and sprayed round the inside to give me the shape of the infill piece needed for the side- ![]() img.photobucket.com/albums/v617/dezaster/A sedan/DSC00479.jpg[/IMG] then worked back form that outer measurement to give me the inner one, and drew it on with the dividers- (ignore the measurements, they were from an old job) ![]() img.photobucket.com/albums/v617/dezaster/A sedan/DSC00480.jpg[/IMG] one side cut out, ready to drop in after a little grinding up- ![]() img.photobucket.com/albums/v617/dezaster/A sedan/DSC00481.jpg[/IMG] |
| |
Last Edit: Jun 12, 2011 17:07:09 GMT by Dez
|
|
|
|
Many people take too many shortcuts with their hot rods so they end up looking like curse word. Obviously, that's not the case with you. 
)
