Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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which was then simply laid back on the 3mm plate, and sprayed over again, to produce the other side, (tell I lie, I did it before I cut the bottom curve out it seems) img.photobucket.com/albums/v617/dezaster/A sedan/DSC00482.jpg[/IMG] then it was cut out, ground up, and both were welded in- img.photobucket.com/albums/v617/dezaster/A sedan/DSC00483.jpg[/IMG] then, I used the same formula I used above to figure out how long the bottom capping piece needed to be, and cut it off the side of the waste piece I cut out right at the beginning of making this section. this one had to have the little notches everyone/4" to get it to bend tight enough, which the top section didnt need.- img.photobucket.com/albums/v617/dezaster/A sedan/DSC00485.jpg[/IMG] then, everything was fully welded up, flapwheeled smooth, then the bracing offcut removed, leaving this- img.photobucket.com/albums/v617/dezaster/A sedan/DSC00487.jpg[/IMG] img.photobucket.com/albums/v617/dezaster/A sedan/DSC00488.jpg[/IMG] pretty cool huh? it still needed a bit of finishing off inside the curve, as the flapdisc was too worn on the edge to do it so the shape wasnt even, it had some lumps, so I did that with a hand file or 2 before I did the next stage.
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Last Edit: Jun 12, 2011 16:56:57 GMT by Dez
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pretty cool huh? Very cool! Any ideas of paint for this bit? maybe: Looking very cool, as usual. Great to see excellent engineering in a project. I like seeing bits in projects that you know would take a long time to make the components but you do not really see the the effort. Please keep it up, it is great to see real craftmen at work. john.
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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Last Edit: Jun 12, 2011 16:58:21 GMT by Dez
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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pretty cool huh? Very cool! Any ideas of paint for this bit? maybe: Looking very cool, as usual. Great to see excellent engineering in a project. I like seeing bits in projects that you know would take a long time to make the components but you do not really see the the effort. Please keep it up, it is great to see real craftmen at work. john. ;D already had them jokes when my mate came in and saw it just after id made it! i like seeing the same too. i get a real kick from seeing something made from a bare material, not a part modifed to fit. plus, its so much cheaper and always fits better too! last bit will be up in a min once the last lot of pics have uploaded......
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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then I cleaned up the cuts, and dropped it in. I forgot to say, I obviously cut it like this as its neater as it caps the ends of the crossmember off, and it increases weld length, so its stronger. img.photobucket.com/albums/v617/dezaster/A sedan/DSC00514.jpg[/IMG] got it central/square/level, and laid some heavy beads on it. you can see here where ive removed the bracing and slipped in the mock-up prop again, ive got just over 4" of suspension travel downwards from ride height before anything touches anything else. which if it does id have far bigger problems, as the bottom of the bodyshell is only 4" off the floor! img.photobucket.com/albums/v617/dezaster/A sedan/DSC00515.jpg[/IMG] and thats the prop loop bit done. but for the rear suspension element of it, I needed to mount this badboy here- img.photobucket.com/albums/v617/dezaster/A sedan/DSC00516.jpg[/IMG] its a 3/4"x3/4"unf heavy duty teflon lined stainless steel rose joint, totally overkill, but its going to be the central top pivot for my rear suspension, so kinda does the job of 2 rose joints in a normal 4-link, so I went up a size or 2 for it to make sure its strong enough. it needs to be mounted just above the prop, to the back of the newly fitted loop. so I knocked up these out of 1/4" plate. notice the shape of the brackets wraps round the bottom corner of the box profile- this makes sure they go on level. img.photobucket.com/albums/v617/dezaster/A sedan/DSC00517.jpg[/IMG] and here it is clamped in position- img.photobucket.com/albums/v617/dezaster/A sedan/DSC00518.jpg[/IMG] I will weld it in properly once ive got the rest of the rear suspension bits finalised. I need to pick up a few more bits to do that though- a couple of bushings, a couple of rose joints, and some thread taps. more progress on this once ive got the bits!
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Last Edit: Jun 12, 2011 16:59:14 GMT by Dez
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Speedle
Posted a lot
Need a Country Rock band in the Hampshire Area? https://www.facebook.com/DirtRoadDiaryUK
Posts: 2,221
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Nov 10, 2009 10:45:49 GMT
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WOW! amazing fab dude! jaw on the floor!
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Nov 10, 2009 10:46:51 GMT
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I just tuned back in having lost this thread in the depths a long time ago. NOW I see what all the fuss is about. Great bit of work Dez, this is truly inspiring fabrication
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stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,950
Club RR Member Number: 174
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Nov 10, 2009 11:14:06 GMT
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Nov 10, 2009 17:27:13 GMT
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Brilliant stuff - if only reading this made me able to do the same work!
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Club Retro Rides Member
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remmoc
Part of things
Posts: 931
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Nov 10, 2009 19:49:12 GMT
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Stunning work as always
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rob0r
East of England
Posts: 2,743
Club RR Member Number: 104
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Nov 10, 2009 21:58:52 GMT
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Impressive stuff as always, you make it look easy.
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E30 320i 3.5 - E23 730 - E3 3.0si - E21 316 M42 - E32 750i ETC
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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Nov 10, 2009 23:34:03 GMT
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thanks for all the praise everyone! its nice to get some recognition for the amount of work i out into something like this. its not always for my own vehicles either, a few of you know of another car ive been working on that will be rolling soon i spent most of today chasing round local bearing suppliers, and bolt/fixings places, all of which were fecking useless. you know its not gunna be good when the supposed expert/specialist doesnt even know how to measure a UNF thread!!! i ended up telling all of them to stick their overpriced/incorrect/special order only rose joints and taps and dies, and have managed to source everything myself online from true specialist suppliers, ones who know what they're talking about, and sell better quality stuff, for less than half the price. so when postie turns up with it all next week ile be able to complete my front and rear suspensions, and steering. I'm looking forward to it
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Nov 11, 2009 15:29:58 GMT
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Class work on this as usual bossman.
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luckygti
Posted a lot
I need to try harder!
Posts: 4,912
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Nov 12, 2009 20:52:23 GMT
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Coming together nicely Dez, and as everyone else has said, superb craftsmanship as always Can't wait to try making stuff in my new workshop!
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Nov 12, 2009 23:10:56 GMT
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i love the cut out for the prop... looks great... nice to see so much effort going into it rather than just some box section welded up and over....
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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Nov 16, 2009 23:14:30 GMT
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I got some deliveries- img.photobucket.com/albums/v617/dezaster/A sedan/DSC00556.jpg[/IMG] across the back is various sets of UNF taps. I got 5/8"-18, 11/16"-18, 11/16"-18 LH, and 3/4"-16, and they come in sets of first, second and plug, at very cheap prices. theres a 11/16"18 LH die nut there too, and the whole lot came to £36 delivered, from RDGtools, via ebay. they apparently have a very good rep in the model engineering world, so I thought they were worth a try. only thing they didnt have was a 11/16 die nut, normal thread- suprising as they had the LH one! so if anyone has one I can lend (i need to cut one thread 2" long), or buy, let me know. the 5/8" taps are for the two rose joints you can see there, as they are 5/8" ones. these are really high quality items, far better than anything I can get locally, or ive seen elsewhere, for a good price too (these were just under a tenner each), which I get from mcGill motorsports via ebay. heres their blurb- the left and right had set of 11/16" taps and dies are for my trackrod and draglink, as ford used this thread for their trackrod ends. I need to tap a thread on each end of the new tie rod once its cut to length(once ive finished making my steering arms....), and then for my drag link ive cut in half a f100 dogbone draglink, with I will then thread both halves and then thread a draglink tube for them to screw into. obviously one end of each will be lh and the other rh thread so they're adjustable on the car. the 3/4" tap is for my centre rear suspension pivot, on my Y-3 link design. I decided to try the taps out on the bit of tube ive had saved for this (a old motorbike steerer tube, the only thing I could find the right size with a thick enough wall!), as a nice touch the taps are engraved with what size drill you need to use for each one, so its nigh on impossible to dash it up) so I wizzed a 11/16" drill through it then tapped it, first, second and plug. even though the taps don't look high quality (about the same as machine mart stuff, not high end brand name like FEW or goliath), they cut a nice clean thread, with no chipping, so I'm happy. I got quoted ridiculous prices (up to £80 for s single tap!!) from local suppliers, so decided to try this cheap online stuff, and it appears to have paid off. I doubt theyd last long under repeated strenuous use, but for a one off job like this, they're fine. tapping- img.photobucket.com/albums/v617/dezaster/A sedan/DSC00557.jpg[/IMG] and assembled (yes I know I need to add a halfnut)- img.photobucket.com/albums/v617/dezaster/A sedan/DSC00558.jpg[/IMG] and the last thing in the pic, is a set of rubber boots for all 3 rose joints. to protect my investment so far to go along with all these taps, ive got an order of stuff coming over form the states, curtesy of riley automotive. this comprises of a couple of rebuild kits for the funny but cool as fook ford draglink end thingies, new boots for them, plus a couple of ball-screws to allow me to use them on my hand fabbed steering arms. plus ive got the F100 bearing adapters for my front brakes from them too. as well as that, ive spent half the national debt of mozambique on 2 sets of headlights, one pair of 10" chrome plain glass marchals, to see if I prefer them on it, and ive got another set of pre-war lucas catseye lens items. pics of those when they turn up! so all in all, an expensive month......
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Last Edit: Jun 12, 2011 17:00:46 GMT by Dez
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I can imagine the expense, i'd say the lights weren't exactly on Asda's seasonal range either
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Club Retro Rides Member
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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Nov 17, 2009 11:14:21 GMT
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put it this way- ive seen 2 sets of lucas 8" catseye lens headlights for sale in the past 5 years- and ive got both of em
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Nov 17, 2009 12:33:39 GMT
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Just spent my lunch break going through the whole thread and I'm in ore at your skills - I didn't even know you could do half the stuff that you've done!!!
Looking forward to future updates.
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Anglia68
Posted a lot
Powered By Boredom.
Posts: 2,050
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Nov 17, 2009 23:36:46 GMT
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Thanks for posting such an informative thread and I'm really looking forward to seeing the rear suspension coming together.
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