Seth
South East
MorrisOxford TriumphMirald HillmanMinx BorgwardIsabellaCombi
Posts: 15,543
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I've been trying to find the cause for a low speed clonk coming from the drive train for the last couple of weeks. Determined last Sunday that there was movement in the drivers side driveshaft UJ. I had a new one "in stock" and set aside some time today to sort it out. I've always found pulling a driveshaft off the Herald a real pain. Nothing too difficult, just several niggly jobs. Anyway, once It was off I was able to see what the problem was. Hmm, where have all the needle rollers gone New joint half way to being fitted. Car is clonk, knock and click free now. I'd machined a smooth end to a 3/8unf screw as well so that I could plug the brake pipe, meaning bleeding was quick and easy on just the one corner. Last week saw a new set of rubber on the alloys too, as the old ones were down to about 3mm. The four were supplied and fitted by a local-ish tyre place for about the same as they cost online supplied only. I'm hoping that some "name brand" tyres will be grippier than the Kwik Fit Arrowspeeds that were on there. Plus I could white letter them. Maybe
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Follow your dreams or you might as well be a vegetable.
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Where did the rollers go?! I still have nightmares after swapping the UJ and flanges eleventy-million times on mine! ;D Glad it's all sorted out. The bolt holes on yours look in good shape too - mine had gone oval.
Interested to see how you get on with the Firestones. Are they 155/70R13?
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Seth
South East
MorrisOxford TriumphMirald HillmanMinx BorgwardIsabellaCombi
Posts: 15,543
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Where did the rollers go?! I don't know! They weren't there! Not even any remnants/bits! The metal lip where the little seal seats was damaged on both so I guess that's where they'd made room to exit. I imagine oval flange holes would be a result of loose nuts flapping about for some time. 165/70 fronts and 175/70 rears which is what was on the alloys before. That slight drop in front size meant no more rubbing when the last set of rubber was fitted.
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Follow your dreams or you might as well be a vegetable.
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Haha! I hate doing UJs on props. I broke my vice trying to do the ones on my Anglia - they were stuck in there damn tight!
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Seth
South East
MorrisOxford TriumphMirald HillmanMinx BorgwardIsabellaCombi
Posts: 15,543
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May 11, 2011 19:05:20 GMT
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Its hard to tell, but the engine has always seemed to have got quite warm on motorway runs. The rad should be fine to cool a 120hp engine as its the same as was fitted to an H120 Rapier and the aluminium shroud I made up means all the air through the grille must go through it. Before the weather really heats up this summer I thought I ought to change the thermostat in case it was at fault - better to make sure a cheap things working as it should before spending more money. Thermostat housing. Two bolts. Both sheared. Left about 10mm proud of the lower housing. One came out quite easy with Plusgas and vice grips. The other wouldn't move. Heat didn't help but did begin to melt the plastic cam belt cover... Welded a nut on to the stub. Turning that sheared the bolt off further down. Drilled 3mm down the centre, opened it out to 6. still couldn't persuade the remainder out. 6.8 tapping drill, then started with an M-8 tap. After a turn or so this went tight and was tricky to undo. Felt like it was on the verge of breaking the tap but it came out and had loostened the remnants of the original bolt. Made sure the original thread was as good as could be b passing the tap thorugh it from underneath. Bolt is a bit wobbly and I was worried the thread might just strip but putting it back together and its done up tight enough and isn't leaking. While all that was going on I also tested the old and new thermostats in boiling water. Old one was 82deg and new was 88 and I've been assured is the correct "pattern" part for the engine. New one obviously opens a little later but was opening much wider than the old one so perhaps that's been restricting flow at high rpms? We'll find out tomorrow when its taken up the motorway.
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Last Edit: Feb 24, 2012 9:06:53 GMT by Seth
Follow your dreams or you might as well be a vegetable.
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May 11, 2011 19:19:11 GMT
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I've always found it hard to test if thermostats open fully by pouring kettle water on them because the temp drops to around the 'start to open' temp so quickly; I normally get funny looks from The Good Lady for boiling bits of car on the hob. That said, if your higher temp one is opening wider with just the kettle water, then it sounds like you may have found your problem
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Last Edit: May 11, 2011 19:19:56 GMT by ben711200
...proper medallion man chest wig motoring.
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Seth
South East
MorrisOxford TriumphMirald HillmanMinx BorgwardIsabellaCombi
Posts: 15,543
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May 11, 2011 19:24:42 GMT
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Err, other kitchen utensils may have also been used. But Mrs_Seth might read this so I'd better not say anything.
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Follow your dreams or you might as well be a vegetable.
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May 15, 2011 15:40:36 GMT
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Cooling fun, you can't beat it.
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bazzateer
Posted a lot
Imping along sans Vogue
Posts: 3,653
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Feb 19, 2012 10:02:28 GMT
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Having seen and heard this beast in the flesh last summer at the Ace I finally got around to reading up on it. Great work as always Seth!
BTW, if you didn't already know that was me grinning at you from the Subaru on the M25 on New Year's Day!
MOT soon?
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Last Edit: Feb 19, 2012 13:27:58 GMT by bazzateer
1968 Singer Chamois Sport 1972 Sunbeam Imp Sport 1976 Datsun 260Z 2+2 1998 Peugeot Boxer Pilote motorhome 2003 Rover 75 1.8 Club SE (daily) 2006 MG ZT 190+ (another daily) 2007 BMW 530d Touring M Sport (tow car)
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craig1010cc
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,998
Club RR Member Number: 35
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Feb 19, 2012 11:32:54 GMT
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Seth, was it a genuine Mazda stat you fitted, the pattern ones have a terrible reputation on the MX forums (when I brought mine it had one failed open, fitted a pattern one and ended up replacing that after 6 months)
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Seth
South East
MorrisOxford TriumphMirald HillmanMinx BorgwardIsabellaCombi
Posts: 15,543
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Feb 23, 2012 20:27:14 GMT
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Yes, was a genuine Mazda stat I've put in now I think. Thanks Baz. Yup, I realised it was you in the Subaru. Things beyond my control have meant that I've not yet got the car ready for its MOT. Next week hopefully as there's only a couple of weeks to go 'til it runs out now.
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Follow your dreams or you might as well be a vegetable.
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Feb 23, 2012 21:02:21 GMT
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Seth, Have a look at this link re MX5 Cooling re-routing. They have a funny way of running the cooling water around the engine due to the engine originally being based on a front wheel drive Mazdz 323 turbo engine. Nice chatting with you the other day as well. www.solomiata.com/CoolantReroute.html
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69 Herald 13/60 with Turbo 1600 MX5 engine, Lexus 5 link rear end, 17in wheels,300mm ventilated disc's and subaru 4 pot calipers
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Cool motor seth ;D, yep my farther has replaced uj's a couple of times on his vitesse, should be easy but a pain as there is so little room to work in , my cooling with the zetec its the other way round, a lot of people find zetec is over cooled and kit car people report very low running temperatures
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Seth
South East
MorrisOxford TriumphMirald HillmanMinx BorgwardIsabellaCombi
Posts: 15,543
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Yay! MOT passed for another year. Usual front wheel bearing advisories and also one on some play developing in a rear trunnion/vert link. Will need to get on that. Mileage in the last year was about 7500 and this MOT also means its the second anniversary of the car hitting the road with the Mazda engine. Total mileage on that conversion is now approaching 16k. No complaints on that score! Cooling is a tricky one as it obviously hasn't minded being run as it is, and I don't think it is actually getting too hot, but there's a bit more temp than desirable inside, particularly in the summer so I think I'll see if I can insulate the cabin a bit more.
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Follow your dreams or you might as well be a vegetable.
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MrSpeedy
East Midlands
www.vintagediesels.co.uk
Posts: 4,791
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[Mr Burns voice] Excellent [Mr Burns voice] Always a pleasure to get a fresh ticket
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Seth
South East
MorrisOxford TriumphMirald HillmanMinx BorgwardIsabellaCombi
Posts: 15,543
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Apr 17, 2012 21:37:16 GMT
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The Herald's been up on axle stands for a couple of weeks. I wanted to check out the bush that was mentioned at the MOT and the car had developed a nasty clunk from the back, that I thought may have been the extra movement it was allowing. It suddenly got worse though about three weeks ago and I wasn't happy about using the car. On pulling the rear shaft off the passenger side I discovered massive play in the UJ, just like the drivers side one a year ago. In the past (with the Triumph engines) a worn UJ would click for ages but not really get any worse for months, until a convenient time could be made to change it. Now with the Mazda power it would seem that once the UJ starts going it gets all upset and throws all the rollers out of a couple of the cups. I had previosuly seen that Canley CLassics stocked a heavy duty UJ so I ordered a pair, so that when the drivers side one goes again I can swap that over. Its amazing how much beefier they are considering they have to fit in the same space. Trickier to fit though, as the metal part of the dust seal is tight to get through the holes in the yoke. I didn't take any photos of the worn bush in disgust. I probably fitted this shaft assembly some time ago, making sure that the trunnion to vert. link was free to move as they can seize but I obviously didn't look at it closely. Instead of hard nylon top hat bushes, with bolt running through a sleeve down the middle, the bolt was simply running directly in a rubber bush of some sort, that had partly collapsed. The bolt itself was also corroded. Correct bushes ordered and fitted and I bet it makes a massive difference to the handling. With the driveshaft out, the other thing I wanted to do was fit a new seal to the diff quarter shaft as the old one has been leaking for ages and I was worried that the diff was running out of oil. The bearing needs to come off to get to the seal and as I learnt when I took it up to a Triumph specialist, easiest way is to cut the bearing off even if its good as they are a mega tight press fit on the shaft. New bearing ordered, seal fitted to its housing and new bearing tapped back into place. Not had a chance to test drive it yet but got it all back together this afternoon so should be good for a while again now.
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Follow your dreams or you might as well be a vegetable.
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,309
Club RR Member Number: 170
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Apr 18, 2012 19:38:57 GMT
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It's always a great feeling to get a ticket on the car again, in addition to reading one of your updates.
It's amazing how quickly a 'to do' list can build up eh?
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May 11, 2012 12:56:01 GMT
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congrats on the MOT pass mr seth, great news that you've had 16K of trouble free use. altho now your to-do list is adding up still none of it is 'hard' work. great work!
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Seth
South East
MorrisOxford TriumphMirald HillmanMinx BorgwardIsabellaCombi
Posts: 15,543
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I dragged this out of the darkest corner of the shed earlier today. Its the fifth wheel of the set that are on the car. And why have I pulled it out? Thanks to an Ebay tip off from KFW and collection/pony express with Dugong and Kev, these appeared at Seth towers on Monday. The one that still has its paint is brand new. Never been used. There's storage scrapes but the wheel nut seats, tyre beads and hub face are untouched. So it looks like I've got me a set of 'track day' wheels with the added bonus of not needing to dispose of old tyres or even get some different wheelnuts...
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Follow your dreams or you might as well be a vegetable.
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bazzateer
Posted a lot
Imping along sans Vogue
Posts: 3,653
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'bowt time for an update on this Seth?
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1968 Singer Chamois Sport 1972 Sunbeam Imp Sport 1976 Datsun 260Z 2+2 1998 Peugeot Boxer Pilote motorhome 2003 Rover 75 1.8 Club SE (daily) 2006 MG ZT 190+ (another daily) 2007 BMW 530d Touring M Sport (tow car)
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