1971 Triumph Herald 1200(ish) 09/4/23 - Roof & dash

I sent the Heralds V5C off with a copy of the receipt for the Mazda and a copy of the Mazda's V5 with the engine number showing and we got the Heralds updated V5 back a couple of weeks later.

Not much to report here as there's been no major maladies. The MOT is looming in a few weeks though so its my annual kick up the backside to sort a few things out. I tried getting the rear drums off a while ago but neither were shifting so I opted to wait until I had parts rather than risk breaking anything and putting the car out of use. Some almost spring like weather today prompted my first time spent outside doing "proper" work on the car this year.

Drivers side drum came off with suitable use of a hammer. I've said in the past that running old stuff reliably is a matter of proper maintenance. I think knowing how long you can get away with stuff also plays a part. Exhibit A:



The wheel cylinder wasn't sliding either and so that was lubricated and the adjuster screw taken right out, lubed and replaced as seized adjusters are a pain so its worth taking the time to do even when they're still moving freely.

New shoes.



And then new drum to co over the top.



The other side was complicated by one of the drum retaining screw being seized so I had to drill the head off before hammmering the drum itself off, then carefully drill out and extract the remainder of the screw from the hub. All went back together OK though, with anew screws.

I've got new pads to fit on the front too but wanted to see what improvement this work at the back showed first. Then I've got some bodywork to do. Nothing as involved as that floor replacement last year I hope. One rear wheel arch and a couple of other localised bits I hope.

I knew that this bottom of the drivers side B pillar was a bit crusty. Borderline close enough to one of the harness points that it might be a MOT failure but obviously needed doing anyway. After a little prod...



Under that the flat section which is actually the edge of the floorpan was obviously also going to be crusty.



Chopped a bit more off the outer B pillar for access and also the section of the opening that the door seal fits too. New floor edge, plug welded to the step plate.



Replaced the vertical bit, then painted the areas that would be closed, masking off where I'd be welding.



Now I got to play with my new toy, bought as a pre-VAT-rise present to myself. First formed the small step that diminishes to nothing, then bent the 90 degree corner, then got shrinking!



Was soon trial fitting.



I remembered to check to make sure the door would close without the door shell hitting this area. Just as well, as it was! The door's been a bit droopy for years so I thought it was about time I tried aligning it a bit better. With the door just open and a scissor jack under the back edge I loosed the hinge bolts, jacked it up a bit and within 15 mins had it shutting a whole heap better. Look! These swage lines haven't been this continuous for ages!



A bit more work to the repair section and it got welded in.



I cut the curve in the net piece and then used to it help hammer the edge of the first section over before trimming it back and welding that in too.



All done. Actually really pleased with the way things went today.



I'll give the car another proper look over but may well book a test for next week as that'll give me a couple more weeks to sort anything out if I've missed a bit.

Lovely work mate! Ive been after getting a shrinker and a stretcher for AGES! The right tools make jobs so much quicker and neater!

I have a right thing for door gaps. I love that photo! Cracking swage line!

Thanks guys. I persuaded some new pads into the front calipers yesterday too and Mrs_Seth called when she got to work this morning saying the car now stopped rather well ;D Also less rattling from the door...

BB, the joys of fibreglass, eh

Its got the early, Type 12, calipers 'cos I found a pair of NOS ones for £50 when I was doing the conversion from drums. No servo.

The pads I've just removed were "Green Stuff" ones we paid a fair amount for a few years ago and to be honest I was a bit disappointed by them. The new ones are "old" ones with naughty stuff in and I'm pretty sure they work better.

Type 14 calipers are a bit better than the 12s apparently and there is certainly more choice of pads for them because they were used on a lot of period race stuff that used the Triumph uprights. You can buy new Type 14s for around £100 the pair.

Nice repair Seth - it great how a little investment in tools pays off

Its called a Metal Shrinking Tool Well almost. Shrinker/Stretcher from Frost.. They offer two versions in the same kind of price bracket so I emailed them to ask which was better. The one that comes with two bodies (and is £30 less) is Chinese made and not great quality. The F450 combo I bought is US made and proper sturdy.

Its not a cheap tool really but will pay itself back over the years in terms of speed and quality of the bits I can make with it.

I must say I'm very impressed at that metal shrinking tool and the work you've done with it! Something I'd really like to invest in in the future.

Just making a curved section with flange for the B post - really wish I had a shrinker / stretcher!