biturbo228
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Found a better way of washing the sand down was to scrape it all back and wash down the remainder, then progressively add sand back in while washing it down until there weren't any more pinholes. Painstaking process, but it seems to have worked. I'll probably regret not getting a compactor on there (mark these words), but I've started putting some paving down. In a nice change of pace, this has gone quicker than expected I've done 1.5m so far out of the 5m my planning permission requires. Then, depending on how many pavers I have left, I'll swap to doing two tracks of pavers to drive down with a gravel drainage layer down the centre. Normally these pavers don't drain very well at all. They say they will through little knobbles on the sides that space each paver out by 2mm or so, but a combination of filling that with fine sand and the gap being too narrow means it just silts up way too quickly to be useful. So, to combat this I've spaced mine ~12mm apart and filled the gap with 10mm gravel. Once I'm confident it all fits properly I'll wash some more sharp sand down it to help solidify it a little more. Oh, and the pavers are another lucky free situation. My other half's brother recently bought a bit of land that had been used for dumping, and happened to have hundreds of pavers all over it. We're still digging them out, but I'm sure there will be enough to cover the required 5m.
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biturbo228
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Apr 29, 2024 12:31:33 GMT
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I'm up to 7 and a bit metres paved! ...out of a total of 23m... However, that's enough to test its structural integrity :S Nothing seemed to move or crack immediately at least, which is reassuring. Should be a reasonably good test as the pickup's about 1800kg and we estimate it had about 500kg of pavers in the back of it...
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biturbo228
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Despite the curse word rain here today we're now up to 10.8m! Looking forward to doing something that's not laying paving or watering recalcitrant sand into hardcore
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biturbo228
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May 29, 2024 12:13:03 GMT
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Now that I've got out from over the tree roots I can use a compactor, which has sped things up immeasurably. Took a couple of days off work and managed to get pretty much the whole straight section of the driveway prepped and laid: I've also managed to procure a load more blocks as they've been doing some building opposite where I work. They'd pulled up a whole section of block paving, and rather than re-using the blocks were going to skip them and buy new ones. Asked if I could have them and they said 'go ahead, knock yourself out mate' so I've pulled 1800 out of the spoil pile. That's put the idea of paving the whole thing into contention, just need to find 3200 more blocks from somewhere cheaply and we can avoid paying out for gravel and gravel grids! Man this would be expensive with new materials...
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mrbig
West Midlands
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May 30, 2024 10:23:26 GMT
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That looks fantastic! Some serious graft gone on there. On the plus side I reckon you've probably saved the thick end of 15 grand doing it yourself so there's a bit in the pot for a few physio/chiropractor appointments!
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1969 German Look Beetle - in progress
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biturbo228
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May 30, 2024 11:31:03 GMT
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That looks fantastic! Some serious graft gone on there. On the plus side I reckon you've probably saved the thick end of 15 grand doing it yourself so there's a bit in the pot for a few physio/chiropractor appointments! Haha yeah there's been a few days where I've had to lay flat on the floor for a while afterwards To be fair, I think it's been good exercise. I've got a habit of not doing much strenuous work for a while followed by short, sharp periods of quite heavy work. Definitely a recipe for wrecking your back! Having something a bit more sustained has been useful. And yeah, I'm amazed at how much all of this would cost if you paid someone to do it/bought all your materials new. I've added up about £15k just in materials (£4k of blocks, £10k in hardcore - mainly the expensive MOT type 3 low fines stuff, £1k in other bits and pieces). That's not including saved labour (though I expect they'd do it a bit more quickly than I did, and pay trade prices).
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glenanderson
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BiTurbo228's garage buildglenanderson
@glenanderson
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May 30, 2024 11:52:47 GMT
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It's amazing what you can pick up cheap/free if you're prepared to wait, and then jump/act quickly.
I would like to do something with my driveway, but it's going to be £40K or more to pay someone else to do it and not only do I have nowhere near that kind of money, even if I did I would prefer to spend it elsewhere. Chances are, despite my best efforts at maintaining the Victorian pile I currently live in, it's going to fall to redevelopment when I sell up, so it would be like throwing the money away - I can think of far more entertaining ways to burn through that kind of cash!
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My worst worry about dying is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her it cost...
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biturbo228
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Jun 28, 2024 19:48:04 GMT
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Yeah I can see the issue! All of this development work rarely adds all that much value to a house TBH so it's invariably money down the drain (if what you're looking for is an investment rather than the thing itself). Speaking of entertaining ways to blow all your money, I've just got back from a trip to Mauritius* so not a great deal of progress on the driveway. Before I left I did fill in a fair chunk of the hardstanding with the first layer of hardcore though: Next step is to fill this lot with sand, but unfortunately the pickup is out of action. I have a bit of a love hate relationship with this vehicle. When it's working it gets itself out of the doghouse for a while, but the moment I have to do a job on it I just end up hating it. Part of the issue is that it's really difficult to find good information on it as everything online for 'Ford Ranger' brings up the US car which is different. The 'rest of the world' version is a Mazda B2500 (or BT-50) under the badge, but there's enough differences between them to make that info only semi-reliable. This wouldn't be so annoying if the design of the thing wasn't invariably lazy and/or cheap. First strike was the headlights (dip and main beams), which stopped working a couple of months ago. All of the wiring diagrams I could find are for the Mazda versions which are different. Bought a workshop manual which doesn't have any wiring diagrams in it. No Haynes available. Ended up finding the issue through dumb luck when plugging and unplugging all of the wire I'd traced in the system, and found a terminal that had fatigued/snapped/corroded. Popped a spade terminal in and fixed! The person who signed off on having one single power wire for both dip and main beams for both headlights should be shot. One issue while you're cruising on the motorway and you'd be plunged into total darkness. Latest issue is it overheated and popped the radiator. Radiator was simple enough to replace, but just look where they put the thermostat (which I think seized and caused it to overheat): What curse word puts a thermostat on the bottom of the engine, wedged up against the dipstick tube so it's a royal pain to get a socket onto the bolt, and just above an invariably rusty crossmember (because of the rubbish rustproofing) that drops flakes of rust into your eyes? I would be slightly less irritated if there wasn't acres of available space in the usual position on the top of the engine... Oh, and the thermostat I ordered was wrong because none of the online parts-checkers seems to know what parts do and don't fit this vehicle. Ordered another one using the part number on the old one, and then I can finally get on with the thing I'm actually trying to do! *Interesting place btw. Less from a petrolhead perspective as there didn't seem to be a great deal of car culture out there, but from an ecological and cultural perspective it's fascinating...
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biturbo228
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Jul 19, 2024 15:45:37 GMT
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Work slowly plods on with shuttling the world's supply of hardcore back and forth I've nearly got most of the first layer of hardcore down on the hardstanding area (notice the 3 qualifiers in that sentence!). This was sped up slightly by using a ton of crushed gravel one of my mate's dads had superfluous to requirements to fill in the gaps between the big blocks of hardcore. Much quicker than what I was doing before, which was (and now is again), smashing up tiles from my aunt-in-law's bathroom redesign Only other development is I've marked out where the garage bases are going to go. Very nice to see that I'm only a metre or so from where the main portion of hardstanding ends. Running total is now up to £3300, mainly on sharp sand to wash down between the hardcore for drainage and sacks of 10mm gravel for between the blocks. Oh, and a couple of ton-bags of limestone chippings as I've run out of the clean hardcore I had. All things that would be unnecessary if I didn't mind about drainage.
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biturbo228
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Jul 26, 2024 20:54:29 GMT
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Well, I've worked out that I've moved 31 tons of material (including the driveway) to get to this point, which is where it's at as of this evening. All by hand. Don't feel so bad it's taken so long now that I've worked that out 75% of the hardstanding area filled in. Just a smidge more sand to wash into the newly laid limestone chippings. Then it'll be onto levelling sand and pavers. I'll be at 40 tons of material moved by the end of that! Not counting where I've had to move things more than once (i.e. depressingly often!). To give myself a bit of a break from endless barrowing I've plotted out some of the proposed garage design. As I can't have one big one I've put a fair bit of thought into how to maximise use of two smaller ones. This is what I've come up with so far: So, two 4x8m 'big single' garages. These just about sneak under the 30m2 internal floor area threshold for building regulations to apply. Between those will be a 2.8m gap, with a 3m 'corridor' between the two, and a flat roof sheltering a 5m long open ended parking bay. On the other side is another 2.8m gap to another outbuilding we have which will get roofed and be another drive-in car parking space. If I have big 1m eaves that can be 9m long, so I might be able to wedge two of my smaller cars into that (or one bigger car and the motorbike). There's also the option of making another enclosed storage area at the back of that if internal space is at a premium. Then there's a 40cm gap to the existing outbuilding. This uses pretty much every inch of available space, and lets me wedge in 4 cars with a 3x4m workshop area at the end of each garage, plus the 2.8x3 central area. Having what are in effect two different garages connected together gave me the idea of having one 'clean' garage for things like painting and engine work, and one 'messy garage' for things like grinding and fabrication. I had real trouble doing jobs that needed a clean environment at my old place as grinder grit got everywhere and it was way too jam-packed with stuff to keep clean easily, so this would be a real luxury. I also had some ideas for rafter designs and loft storage. With 38 degrees of roof pitch I can have 1.5m of internal headroom above the ceiling joists (if I inset them into the walls rather than plonk them on top). For the whole of one of the garages, and in the workshop area of the second garage, I'll use that as loft storage. With 3m joists in the walls and raised ties I can sneak 3.75m of internal headroom, which would future-proof a lift of some variety. The question at the moment is whether to put the lift in the clean or dirty garage. I'm thinking clean as the dirty garage will probably have an immobile hulk in it for quite a proportion of its time, and a lift would be really handy for general maintenance. Anyone have any other ideas of things I can bake into the design now?
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Last Edit: Jul 26, 2024 22:15:09 GMT by biturbo228
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biturbo228
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A little more fiddling about with CAD on the ceiling joist design has produced this: On the right we have the raised tie lift area. I learnt this was acceptable practice in an excellent rafter design book I've forgotten the title of (but will dig out later!). Loads of interesting things you can do that I had no idea of, though I now spend a fair amount of time looking at the rafter designs of things like old church ceilings and wood-framed warehouses. Fascinating stuff. On the left I've had a play around with maximising the amount of upstairs headroom by sinking the rafter into the stud wall a little. This keeps the roof pitch the same, but adjusts the floor height upstairs. I expect there's a term for it, but I haven't come across it before. I can still tie the rafters in to prevent them splaying by extending the eaves up to a metre long and tying the joist into the end of the eaves. That gives me 1.8m of headroom upstairs at the centre of the pitch, and 2.7m of headroom downstairs. I can't quite remember how much height I needed for my engine crane, but hopefully it's enough if I need to whip an engine in and out of something in the low garage. Oh, I'm not sure if folks have come across it before, but there's a great resource for sizing of timbers for spanning gaps. I've got a paper version of it, but there's a free online resource here. They're a set of tables that give you the maximum span length of a given depth of commonly available timber, arranged by C16 and C24, and expected dead and live loads. The book does oak beams too, but the online tool doesn't. The history of these is pretty neat too. They were developed in WW1 when we suddenly had a pressing need to throw up thousands of timber buildings very rapidly. Things like early aircraft hangars, warehouses etc. Rather than having to engineer each and every roof, leave it to the chance of having someone experienced on site, or risk wasting resources on oversized lumber, they conducted a load of experiments to see what spans each common size of beam could take. This has been a publicly available resource since, which is fantastic really. This was also a precursor to roof truss and early engineered beam design in the UK, which was really shot forwards by the need for aircraft hangars to have enormous clear spans not normally required for other big buildings like warehouses where the odd pillar inside doesn't make much of a difference. Before that, massive spans like railway terminals were done in cast-iron.
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Last Edit: Jul 30, 2024 10:13:44 GMT by biturbo228
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mrbig
West Midlands
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Jul 30, 2024 21:22:40 GMT
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Fabulous stuff. Amazed at your progress. I was just thinking 31 tonnes = 31,000kg = 1,240 sacks of cement. That’s a phenomenal amount of work.
If you get stuck for parts on the Ranger again, PM me, I have access to that Ford parts system so can look up numbers on the VIN.
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1969 German Look Beetle - in progress
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biturbo228
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Jul 30, 2024 22:10:51 GMT
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Fabulous stuff. Amazed at your progress. I was just thinking 31 tonnes = 31,000kg = 1,240 sacks of cement. That’s a phenomenal amount of work. If you get stuck for parts on the Ranger again, PM me, I have access to that Ford parts system so can look up numbers on the VIN. I like your maths! That's a hell of a lot of cement Thanks for the offer with the Ranger. That'd be dead helpful next time I'm looking for something. Most of the online catalogues get very confused.
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Last Edit: Jul 30, 2024 22:11:27 GMT by biturbo228
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skinnylew
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BiTurbo228's garage buildskinnylew
@skinnylew
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Reading this with interest, hopeful that I can rebuild/have my double garage rebuilt this year/next year as it's getting tired. Being away from home for many months has meant family have been clearing out areas I have neglected so suddenly there is cause to do such things
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biturbo228
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Haha that's part of what's driving my build as quick as it is. My folks are selling their place which is where about 80% of my junk currently is! Finally finished washing sand into the base layers of hardcore, so took a day off on Friday and hired a compactor. Man does this bit go quickly in comparison! I also plotted out the rest of the hardstanding area. Turns out my 75% covered estimate is close enough for government work, which is encouraging. Now I'm onto blocklaying again, which doesn't take too long with the sand compacted.
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biturbo228
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Aug 12, 2024 10:46:33 GMT
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This week, I have been mostly collecting block pavers. I'm down to only needing 2500 or so out of a total of 8500. At a total cost of £170 so far (plus fuel) I think I'm happy with the fact that they're all slightly different variations of brindle. I've also started collecting some tiles which is the next big cost that can be readily avoided. It's about 53p per tile new and I need nearly 9000 of them. With this latest batch of 500 reclaimed ones I'm up to 1800ish. This weekend I also got a good chunk of the hardstanding paving down. Goes fast when all the groundwork is prepped and ready. I'm actually a lot further than this, but finished after dark so didn't get photographic evidence. I'm a little further than the line of leaves you can see here: Unfortunately, I noticed that the garages are quite out of parallel with the block pavers. Thanks to the gravel drainage gulleys I can account for this at nearly 1cm (3/8") per row, but it'll still be tight to make up the ~40cm (16") of distance to get them parallel and avoid having to cut any blocks lengthways. Still, it's starting to look good!
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Last Edit: Aug 12, 2024 10:46:58 GMT by biturbo228
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They usually cut easily enough lengthways with a 9" disc cutter and diamond blade.
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biturbo228
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Aug 13, 2024 10:25:51 GMT
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They usually cut easily enough lengthways with a 9" disc cutter and diamond blade. Useful to know considering I might have a fair few to cut!
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Aug 13, 2024 22:12:54 GMT
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They usually cut easily enough lengthways with a 9" disc cutter and diamond blade. Useful to know considering I might have a fair few to cut! Or just fill the gap with concrete.....
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biturbo228
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Aug 16, 2024 21:27:17 GMT
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World's supply of block pavers done Popped up the old car tent I built the Jag in so I can decant everything from the shed and pull that down, which is this weekend's job hopefully! It's slap-bang right in the way of where we'll need to barrow concrete through to the pads, but we'll sort that out when we come to it!
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Last Edit: Aug 16, 2024 21:33:45 GMT by biturbo228
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