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Nov 17, 2022 23:22:29 GMT
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I know in America they have 'hoods' and 'trunks', which bit is the decklid? Whatever it is I have no doubt that you will fix it up better than new. Thanks. It gets a little clearer if you look at something like this 1920 T roadster. It has a rear deck, that has a lid on top of it. This is an add on accessory Potter 'trunk' (cause it looks like a steamer trunk) that you could get for 1930s Fords.
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teaboy
Posted a lot
Make tea, not war.
Posts: 1,941
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Nov 17, 2022 23:29:42 GMT
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It has a rear deck, that has a lid on top of it. Cheers dude.
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The rear /lower edge of the 1/4's didnt look good. So I got rid of the layer of bondo, and then it looked like this. So those had to go. " This is what they looked like on the inside.
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I finally got the back of the body where I thought it needed to be. So I started to work on the B pillar, where it attaches to the subrail. But then I noticed something still wasn't right. So I did a lot of measurements again. Turned out both B pillars leaned to one side of the car. This mistake happened because I followed the shape of the doors, and the roof ( I know the roofchop is crooked, but I thought I could at least rely on some of it to be right). The doors are really strong, so there was no way to just bend them to the correct angles. I had to weaken them in strategic spots to be able to do that. Once I had the angles of the B pillars even ( left to right ), I put braces inside the body to keep them there.
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While keeping an eye on the angles of the B-pillars and the doorgaps ( to make sure nothing moved when I was putting heat in the body while welding ) Then it was time to tack the lower cowl repair panels in. Left. And right. I'm doing a lot more tackwelding than I usually do, postponing the finish welding. That is to make sure I have everything where I want it, to give myself some opportunity for adjustment if it turns out I'll need it.
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The rear panel below the decklid was a repro piece, and it just wasn't good. It was a little bit too wide, which messed up the panelgap from the 1/4 panels to the decklid. It was made out of too light of a gauge. And it didn't have any of the inside bracing it was supposed to have. Just from lifting the body ( its a natural place to grab it ), it got kinked and bent out of shape. So it had to come out. The square tubing is tacked to the outside corners to keep them flat and even. The replacement showed up today. Here it is next to the old one. A quick check for fit Much better...
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Busy week/end.
You really do keep the attention to detail dialled up at 100.
Some of the likes today were sympathy likes, but as usual, I love what you do, even though it is way out of my league and skill set.
Looking at the rear corners you removed, I wonder how many shiny show winners out there look like that on the reverse.
This would be a car people would want to own.
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Thank you grizz. Yeah, I'm guessing quite a few...
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Amazing stuff. What do you check the angles with on things like the B pillars?
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Funny story... A couple of years ago, I got a call to come look at a '51 Mercury custom at a Paint/ Hot Rod shop. Another shop had done some radical mods to the sides, and they had made a real mess of it. Without exaggerating, the bondo on the sides was several inches thick... The shop owner had heard I'd be a guy who could fix it. I'm looking at this thing, trying to figure out how bad the damage was. And at the same time the shop owner is trying to pin me down with a quote for the work. There is no way to quote something like that, specially with that much really horrible work done to it. So I ask him " what did it cost to make this mess?" He gave me a number. ( surprisingly high) Then I told him " it will be more than that..." I didnt get the job...
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Amazing stuff. What do you check the angles with on things like the B pillars? Thanks horrido . A digital angle finder and a carpenters level. And a regular tape measure to take cross measurements
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Nov 21, 2022 10:32:53 GMT
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Looking at the rear corners you removed, I wonder how many shiny show winners out there look like that on the reverse. Lots of them. Possibly even most of them. A friend suggested that whenever you look at recent cosmetic work, you should always ask yourself "what were they trying to hide?" Roy was an antique dealer, but it's even more necessary with cars because they have to do a bit more than display your collection of jubilee china. Far too many are 'engineered' down to a teatray down a snowy slop standard: steering with massive bump steer, suspension that binds, wheels that don't fit, brakes that don't and wiring that's only good as a fire starter.
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Normally, with something as critical as the exact location of a hinge point, you take accurate measurements so you can transfer everything on the new piece later. But the hinge was so far off that that would have been a waste of effort. I knew I'd have to spend a lot of time finding the exact spot later, but that was unavoidable... And I cut it all out. And the new piece goes in. Trimmed for a buttweld with a small gap. Tacked in.
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jonomisfit
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 1,749
Club RR Member Number: 49
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1932 Ford 5W Coupe.jonomisfit
@jonomisfit
Club Retro Rides Member 49
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Cough..... opportunity for swagey holes.... cough 😆 The work you're doing on this car is great! I'm enjoying watching/ reading
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jonomisfit, I thought about that. But then I would have had to cut smaller holes, so the tool would fit between the flanges on the sides. So in the end I chose weight reduction instead... Thanks guys...
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Nov 28, 2022 12:25:11 GMT
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Once again.
Silly grin and head shaking here.
Great repairing of old screw up there.
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