edk83
Part of things
Posts: 862 
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Jan 31, 2023 11:21:57 GMT
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Hmm possible issue Front end has been knocked before on the drivers side looking at this, looks like it as been repaired and the suspension mounting points all measure the same to both sides, so been pulled back ok. The top of the triangle has an annoying kink though. Replacement full panel is available at £300  That has been repaired before and pulled back out  |
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Eh, if the suspension measures straight then replacing the whole panel is just creating another opportunity for things to get out of shape again. If it really bothers you then no problem, but I'd be inclined to stitch weld the seams to bring the stiffness back up and leave it be. £300 is lightweight flywheel money  |
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edk83
Part of things
Posts: 862
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I've found some repair sections of the triangles at about £30 so got them ordered  That way I can replace the bent section and won't have to cut it out completely in one go, keeping the dimensions Will weld up the top seam as well of course. Offered up the gearbox mounting plate last night, ordered up some 5mm wall box section to go inside the crossmember, the original is so thin! Also some tube to use as crush tubing in various places The floors are going to get some more 3mm plate triangles welded in to bolt though as well where I've drawn    |
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I have done a similar amount of cutting in the gearbox/back of engine area and it is still a strong car. The full roll cage really helps to keep it all rigid. My front windscreen hoop was braced firmly up to the scuttle by the door opening.
My car has a Rover V8 plus Rover 4 speed gearbox and a Ford Anglia van axle.
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Rover P6 3500S engine & box?
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edk83
Part of things
Posts: 862
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Gearbox plate is now in place, added some nice big chunks of box section into the cross member and added crush tubes to them. This will dictate where the engine sits in the bay, what prop I need, all that stuff.  Going to add some 3mm plate, had to edit the top of the cross member on the drivers side.  Now starting to look at the front end and getting ideas  |
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Looking good!
Is that tube front section to try and eke some extra clearance, or to try and increase stiffness? Reason being that weight-for-weight box section is stronger if you know which plane your forces are coming in and can orient the flat sides to meet that force. Tubes are good when you don't know where the force is coming from as they're equally strong whichever way you put them.
I think the function of that cross-brace is to stop the chassis rails twisting in at the top when you put suspension forces through them. So we know the plane of the forces, and can put a box section vertically to counteract them.
That's my understanding at least! I'm far from an engineer...
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Are you keeping the lever arm front suspension or uprating it to telescopic shocks?
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MK3 Capri 2.0, Starion Widebody, Midget 16v, E46 Coupe, E46 Touring 330
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edk83
Part of things
Posts: 862
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I'm keeping the cross brace, the steering rack bolts to it. Planning on cutting out the dented larger section below it and replace with tube I'll get the hole saw out and thread the tube between the chassis rails and inside them, then chop the rest out.  |
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edk83
Part of things
Posts: 862
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I think Frontline telescopic is the way forward here, building coilovers and upper arms would be quite a bit of work.
Lever arms are pants
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Last Edit: Feb 9, 2023 14:10:00 GMT by edk83
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edk83
Part of things
Posts: 862
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Feb 13, 2023 14:53:08 GMT
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Took some sawing, but thats in, removing the lower panel will allow the bottom pully to come off the engine from underneath for cam belt changes. get some weld on it and then chop whats left of the old out next, then do some tubing back to the rear front wishbone mounts  Something Like this  |
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edk83
Part of things
Posts: 862
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Feb 23, 2023 10:58:12 GMT
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A litte more progress  |
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Feb 23, 2023 18:26:29 GMT
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Hi edk The box section that the steering rack bolts to can have the centre removed and the ends blend into the lower box/tube. This was done on the 1500 midget chassis as standard as the 1500 triumph engine was a bit longer than the "a" series. Here is an old pic of my very grubby engine bay ready for the V8 to go in, the big side high box sections were to support the "Rubber" bumpers.  |
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edk83
Part of things
Posts: 862
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Feb 24, 2023 10:15:28 GMT
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I'm keeping it in but in tube, helps to brace the shock towers. I'll be adding a frontline suspension setup with the avos, that can also have a brace added as well. Tacked in, not welding the rear tubes in yet as I may need to access the inside of the chassis rails to add crush tubes depending on how I do the engine mounts. Next job, throw a spare block in with gearbox and prop etc  |
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Last Edit: Feb 24, 2023 11:26:39 GMT by edk83
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edk83
Part of things
Posts: 862
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Feb 24, 2023 11:30:13 GMT
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edk83
Part of things
Posts: 862
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Alternator mounted  Cross member lid on  |
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Last Edit: Mar 2, 2023 9:53:43 GMT by edk83
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edk83
Part of things
Posts: 862
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edk83
Part of things
Posts: 862
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Mar 17, 2023 16:21:45 GMT
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Started looking at rads, midget rads are tiny and need a cowl that I don't have. Might as well use the space, pug 205 gti alloy rad  |
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edk83
Part of things
Posts: 862
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Mar 17, 2023 16:25:13 GMT
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Started making little bits like gearbox covers, Caterham just ran them open, not for me  Modded Rover Mini crank sensor and nylon bush to fit the mg6 block  |
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