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I’m sure I documented it on here mate but it was basically clean/he grease and dry thoroughly. Then and little bits of surface rust I got rid of and zinc primed/2k epoxied. Then did the inner sills/chassis legs with cavity stuff and the floors with clear wax, all by bilt hamber Cheers mate, ill have a proper look now I have pc access again. Got it's MOT soon so see what Nath says first lol |
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I’m sure I documented it on here mate but it was basically clean/he grease and dry thoroughly. Then and little bits of surface rust I got rid of and zinc primed/2k epoxied. Then did the inner sills/chassis legs with cavity stuff and the floors with clear wax, all by bilt hamber Cheers mate, ill have a proper look now I have pc access again. Got it's MOT soon so see what Nath says first lol Haha I’m sure he won’t condemn it mate! |
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Another little update. I was meant to be taking the Nissan to players classic at goodwood this year (we’ve never been before) but unfortunately a couple days before I discovered the radiator had a small age related crack in the plastic where it’d fatigued over time  Having scoured the internet I’ve managed to find a replacement/upgrade KOYORAD I’ve just got to wait 2 weeks for it to arrive. So taking that down south for a 500 mile trip was out of the question. In the end I decided to sort the paint as best I could given the time on the Volvo and take that. Got the tools out and got to work. I purposely havent really cared for the quality of the paint on the car because it kinda defeats the point of using it every day and being worried about it like the Nissan.       All was good for the trip and the car didn’t miss a beat. Ended up parked on the side of the track which was pretty cool on the Sunday and a great weekend was had  I also got the front lip back from paint which is now waiting to be fit to the Nissan when it’s back up and running, went with the factory stoneguard for the kit that comes on the bottom of the car as standard    I have also had a file and sticker made to have a proper badge on the lip as they don’t come with them but there is a cutout in the lip for one   Trying to keep adding a kit to the Nissan as classy/subtle as i can but still deliberate to make it look a bit more stylish and stand out. Side skirts and back bumper extension next Thanks!] |
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Last Edit: Jun 13, 2024 9:41:35 GMT by louishavo
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Last Edit: Jul 2, 2024 15:00:29 GMT by louishavo
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Aug 14, 2024 21:48:05 GMT
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Hi all, Just thought I’d keep you guys updated on progress over at stinky Volvo HQ, done a few shows in the Nissan so that’s nicely tucked away in my new storage unit. On the Volvo turbo front… I managed to find a cracked manifold for free and salvage the flange off it to make a link pipe from the factory manifold. The manifold was absolutely fubar so managed to salvage the flange and my pal turned it flat for me on the lathe ready to made a link pipe. Cost is definitely going to trump appearance on this one but anything I make I’ll try my best.   Then I ordered some 40 DCOE flanges and some 42OD pipe and started to cut/make the adaptors I would need. Here are some mid way through pics tryna get them nice and neat shapes.    Came up with these two adaptors for the Weber and manifold so it’s easier to position it all in the engine bay, the more parts I know have to live in there the better before I even make the link pipe. Left plenty of length on the pipes ready to get chopped down and painted in some cheap silver enamel paint (which I still need to do).    Last pic is an idea how it will live in the bay once I’ve shortened some pipes, the stock intake pipe from the CT9 is steel too from factory so luckily it’ll be easy to chop/weld to meet my Weber adaptor.  Next up I’ll make a link pipe and get some feed/drain pipes on the go. Thanks! Lou |
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Aug 28, 2024 16:19:46 GMT
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Hi all, Bit of a hold up on the turbo conversion, I’ll need to use the car as my daily over the winter and need some more room in the bay to make it work nicely (battery/expenasion tank etc) so it’s on hold till next spring when I use the Nissan more again. Decided to crack on with the styling on the Volvo that I’ve quite fancied changing for a while. Bought a couple of cheap color match cans and a couple cans of 2k laquer in a can and matched the kit to the car.   Turned out half decent apart from me getting some royally tragic runs in the drivers skirt due to lack of room in the unit I was stood too close with the can. I can rectify that over winter but everthing else turned out decent! Here’s is it back on the car with new hardware.    I’ve already been onto a guy for some big stickers for the back and the sides in red and silver to try and give it a bit more flavor but in a bit of an 80s livery this time. Cheers! Lou |
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Sept 3, 2024 15:38:48 GMT
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Little update, Nissans off the road now now for winter so cracked on a little more making the Volvo more like mine again with some choice stickers.   Made a bit of a silver and red double pinstripe up from cheap Amazon stuff and then got the big Yokohama stickers on the side skirts. Thanks! |
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Sept 29, 2024 21:23:57 GMT
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Hi all, Another update on the Volvo, I’d been looking for some tough to find parts recently and they were either moon money or broken. So I figured in true Volvo DIY style I’d have a go at making it first. I found a picture of a heckblende on the internet for reference, they never made them for the mk3 340, most people shave down mark 2 ones to fit on the sides as the mark 2 lights are a different design, taller and thinner. I decided if I was going to have a go I wanted to keep the stock reg plate lights in place and make the lights shine through the panel. This meant I’d have to try and make a sturdy but simple/thin bracket to not obstruct it either. I started by measuring the gap and ordering some polycarbonate sheet, the top sheet is 3mm prismatic clear ppolycarbonate and the one behind is 2mm opaque/white polycarbonate. I doubled it up as whenever I’ve had lights apart before they’ve always had a light/white backing. First job was to take the protective plastic off and tape them together, to join them I bought some JB weld clear weld which has a super fast set time but 24 hour cure time. I racked my brain for a while on this as a hobbiest but this actually worked out pretty decent. I figured I would because of the textured prismatic nature of the top sheet (texture in the centre/smooth side facing out) there would be the little diamond voids along each edge to fill with the epoxy, to bond the two sheets together. I carefully did an edge at a time and used a small lollipop stick to pack the epoxy into the edge to fill the outer voids between the texture and smooth sheet.   I then set my mind to making a bracket so I could attach it to the car, used some simply 2x35mm flat bar from b and q and bent it up into shape, used the original reg plate holes with stainless screws and the bracket symmetrical both sides. Also gave myself 3-4mm out front as I knew the panel would be 5mm thick and wanted it to sit as flush as I could get it.  Then drilled and counter sunk the panel in a nice symmetrical spot on the bracket and used some simple m5x20 bolts with nylock nuts. I also bent the tabs on the bracket back slightly so it would bend the panel in the middle outward to flow with the line of the car.   Next up I bought some tint spray and have it 3x coats and 2 coats of clear laquer. Because the texture of the prismatic polycarb matched the reflectors on the lights (under the reverse light) I intentionally left the panel a little brighter to tie in with that. The rest of the red on the lights is a little darker.   Once the panel was dry I stuck the sticker I’d bought on and stuck the 12mm top black line on to match the line of the lights that are shallower than the centre. The reason I did this is I wanted the panel to light up and I’d have to trap the light in to do that, if I’d have left a gap it would have looked daft with an actual gap at the top.  I then got it fitted up to the car and tested the light up side of it with the stock reg plate lights.      |
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Sept 29, 2024 21:32:07 GMT
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I then had to work out how I was going to mount the stock reg plate nicely (I’m actually a sucker for keeping it because it’s the original dealer one) so went to wickes this time for some more cheap 2mm flat bar. First made the plinth for the reg plate to sit against and occurred the small LED Lights I’ve decided to use on either side to light it up (I still need to wire these in).  I then decided to bend some more bar up and see what might work to hold it on. I came to the conclusion fitting it inside the exhaust cut out was the least invasive way of mounting it incase I changed my mind or went back to stock reg plate placement. A few plug welds and some tweaking got me here.  Then gave it a scuff and a rattle can body color paint job to hide it and ended up with this.  Got it all mounted up and stuck some double sided reg plate tape on the back of the plate the sits flush and parallel with the bumper. The bracket doesn’t need it though it’s a nice little insurance policy.     Just waiting on some 3mm black vinyl tape for the sides of the panel tomorrow in the post to trim the sides of the panel and finish it off with a border like the rear lights are. Was also thinking of de badging the boot now having the big Volvo logo on the panel so it doesn’t look too busy, not sure what you guys think? Anyway! Thanks |
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zeberdee
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 1,037 
Club RR Member Number: 2
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Sept 30, 2024 6:53:53 GMT
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That looks really neat .
I think i’d de badge it now .
As you say , it’d look less busy .
👍
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Sept 30, 2024 13:54:28 GMT
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Thanks mate. Yeah I think I’m going to get rid of them and tidy it up anyway just leave the big Volvo logo in the middle on the panel.
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Just seen this, I ordered same polycarbonate 6 weeks a go to make a Heckblende for my B4 Passat.
Not hadchance to set about it yet
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I just fancied having a go for that low risk/high reward kinda thing. Mines not perfect but at £40 in materials and the sake of having a go I’m happy with it!
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Had a go at tidying up the heckblende I made. I decided it needed a bit of edging to make it look more like the rear lights with a black border on. I also gave it a lick of 2k clear to make it look a bit shinier/more professional.   I then decided that the badges on the boot had to do so it looked less busy. The paint was absolutely cooked around them so just did by best with what I had save having to repaint it.   Then took some pics of it outside with it lit up.   Nissan is still tucked away cosy till next spring where I’ll finally get the rest of the body kit sorted professionally ready for shows again.  Cheers! |
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Same as that mate, it's what car modifying is all about. I've got to get a slight bend in at the top of mine. Utilising a B3 passat tub to work mine around.   |
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Looks like a great start mate, I used 2mm opaque/white behind mine so it wasn’t fully see through, I’d probably recommend painting the tub behind it white so it looks more like the inside of a light does when you take it apart.
I tinted mine with spray after to get the color and it looks more like a light unit finish would that you can’t see through behind.
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Oct 20, 2024 17:22:19 GMT
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I’d been hunting down some interesting mirrors for the Volvo to give it a bit more of a nod to an 70s/80s race car. Found a cheap 40/50 year old vitaloni a few months ago knowing nothing about them (it was from a fiat 500/695 and clamp on) and have spend the last few months trying to find a matching one (they don’t exist for less than £100 to your door from Italy). Found a cheap passenger one (from an old Alfa but wing mounted). So decided to try and make a matching looking pair then (the mirrors themselves are exactly the same). The original mirror pointed down so made a game plan and cut the end off.   Then drilled and tapped the ball end and also the shaft to take an m6 threaded bar.   Then they both looked like more of a matching pair then to mount to some bases  Got to taking the mirrors off and having a look and ended up having to cut them apart to get anything usable as a base. Stated by scuffing them up with some 60 grit and slapping some fibreglass in there.  Got one bodyworked and painted to give you an idea of how it would look as a blank base  It was getting late when I got them both mounted so went out today to take a few pictures     Personally I really like the look it’s given it and am as happy as I can be with the execution seen as they don’t quite match and are probably 40/50 years old. Cheers! |
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