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Working on arduino based gauges, and have a couple of options for the sensors. Could use resistance based or voltage based.
Voltage based makes wiring slightly simpler but the only ones i can find are from rare stuff like corvettes and holdens. These are typically 3 pin sensors.
With the combined knowledge on here, what else had three pin oil pressure sensor, giving me a bit more choice.
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Can you order the GM one from your local Vauxhall dealer?
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I'm sure the PSA ES9 uses a 3 pin oil pressure sender/switch.
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Mar 14, 2021 15:08:26 GMT
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Rover sd1V8 had a three pin oil sender At least mine did
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squonk
Part of things
Posts: 858
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Mar 14, 2021 18:46:29 GMT
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2004 Chevrolet Avalanche Z71 2005 Mercedes CLK320 Cabriolet 1996 Mercedes C180 Elegance Auto Saloon 1996 Rover 620Ti (Dead fuel pump) 1992 Toyota HiLux Surf 1987 Range Rover Vogue (Rusty) 1992 Range Rover Vogue SE (More Rusty) 2006 Chrysler Grand Voyager 2008 Corsa 1.4 Design
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Mar 14, 2021 19:13:08 GMT
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Thanks for the comments, I will probably end up making a 5v stabilised supply as part of the solution. There is a 5v supply output from the arduino onboard regulator, but not convinced it would run multiple sensors happily.
I have found one sensor but its a chinese special hence looking for a more oem solution which is also likely to be chinese made but hopefully reliable.
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squonk
Part of things
Posts: 858
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Mar 14, 2021 22:46:04 GMT
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It looks like the Chrysler/Jeep part will do what you want. From the wiring diagram, Pin 1 = +5V Supply, Pin 2 = Signal Output, Pin 3 = Sensor Ground. You will have to devise a method of calibrating the output, possibly against a mechanical gauge.
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2004 Chevrolet Avalanche Z71 2005 Mercedes CLK320 Cabriolet 1996 Mercedes C180 Elegance Auto Saloon 1996 Rover 620Ti (Dead fuel pump) 1992 Toyota HiLux Surf 1987 Range Rover Vogue (Rusty) 1992 Range Rover Vogue SE (More Rusty) 2006 Chrysler Grand Voyager 2008 Corsa 1.4 Design
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gryphon
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 330
Club RR Member Number: 157
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Thanks for the comments, I will probably end up making a 5v stabilised supply as part of the solution. There is a 5v supply output from the arduino onboard regulator, but not convinced it would run multiple sensors happily. I have found one sensor but its a chinese special hence looking for a more oem solution which is also likely to be chinese made but hopefully reliable. Not the cheapest solution, but I tend to use the Tracopower TSR 1-2450 in any project that needs a stable 5v rail now. (or the 1-2433 for 3.3v rails). Wide input voltage range, very stable output, overcurrent protected, run cool and no need for any supporting components. I think I've tried the cheap chinese sensor you're on about - the stainless steel bodies ones that are all over eBay? I didn't test it before putting it in the car, the reading (via arduino and OLED dispaly) jumped around all over the place. Put a scope on the output and saw this at idle: That's showing lots of digital jumps between 0psi and 100psi. Excellent. I have bought a 300PSI one to test and see if I have better luck, but so far I can't recommend the cheap ones!
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Last Edit: Mar 15, 2021 9:41:53 GMT by gryphon
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Mar 15, 2021 17:57:14 GMT
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Yes those were the ones on ebay i was trying to avoid. Many thanks for the diagram for the sensor, i went looking for a wiring diagram but came up blank
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squonk
Part of things
Posts: 858
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Mar 15, 2021 23:28:30 GMT
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Thanks for the comments, I will probably end up making a 5v stabilised supply as part of the solution. There is a 5v supply output from the arduino onboard regulator, but not convinced it would run multiple sensors happily. I have found one sensor but its a chinese special hence looking for a more oem solution which is also likely to be chinese made but hopefully reliable. Not the cheapest solution, but I tend to use the Tracopower TSR 1-2450 in any project that needs a stable 5v rail now. (or the 1-2433 for 3.3v rails). Wide input voltage range, very stable output, overcurrent protected, run cool and no need for any supporting components. I think I've tried the cheap chinese sensor you're on about - the stainless steel bodies ones that are all over eBay? I didn't test it before putting it in the car, the reading (via arduino and OLED dispaly) jumped around all over the place. Put a scope on the output and saw this at idle: That's showing lots of digital jumps between 0psi and 100psi. Excellent. I have bought a 300PSI one to test and see if I have better luck, but so far I can't recommend the cheap ones! You may find that it is the Traco DC - DC convertor that is causing these spikes. These are digital switching devices that use a high frequency oscillator to 'chop' the voltage. This can cause high frequency interference on the output which can react with certain types of load and induce noise spikes. Unless some pretty serious filtering is employed on the output they are not best suited to instrumentation supplies. I worked on engine test beds and was a specialist in instrumentation for some 35 years before retiring and from experience would not use chopper regulators because of the problems they can cause. A simple analogue regulator is not as efficient but is far better for instrumentation. Something like this: cpc.farnell.com/stmicroelectronics/l4940v5/ic-v-reg-ldo-5-0v-4940-to-220/dp/SC10587 with a capacitor across its output would do just fine.
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Last Edit: Mar 16, 2021 0:19:20 GMT by squonk
2004 Chevrolet Avalanche Z71 2005 Mercedes CLK320 Cabriolet 1996 Mercedes C180 Elegance Auto Saloon 1996 Rover 620Ti (Dead fuel pump) 1992 Toyota HiLux Surf 1987 Range Rover Vogue (Rusty) 1992 Range Rover Vogue SE (More Rusty) 2006 Chrysler Grand Voyager 2008 Corsa 1.4 Design
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gryphon
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 330
Club RR Member Number: 157
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You may find that it is the Traco DC - DC convertor that is causing these spikes. These are digital switching devices that use a high frequency oscillator to 'chop' the voltage. This can cause high frequency interference on the output which can react with certain types of load and induce noise spikes. Unless some pretty serious filtering is employed on the output they are not best suited to instrumentation supplies. I worked on engine test beds and was a specialist in instrumentation for some 35 years before retiring and from experience would not use chopper regulators because of the problems they can cause. A simple analogue regulator is not as efficient but is far better for instrumentation. Something like this: cpc.farnell.com/stmicroelectronics/l4940v5/ic-v-reg-ldo-5-0v-4940-to-220/dp/SC10587 with a capacitor across its output would do just fine. That scope was actually taken using a bench power supply as a power source with everything else removed from the circuit - a pure test of a very broken sensor! I do only have the cheap USB hantek scope at home, but it's good enough for things like this. I'd generally share your concerns around using a switching regulator but these tracopower ones have impressed me, regulation is excellent and I've never seen any nasty transients or high frequency noise from them (On proper scopes at work - also in automotive, but not instrumentation). I'm rarely measuring any fast signals though.
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Mar 20, 2021 17:01:03 GMT
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3 pin oil pressure sensors were used on Rover Sd1 and there is a pin for feeding an electric fuel pump. This meaans that the fuel pump is switched off when there is no oil pressure. i believe during starting the engine, the fuel pump gets power from the ignition lock Peter
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