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Mar 15, 2021 18:13:54 GMT
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Fantastic result this evening. Bought a new battery, refitted spark plugs & leads. Checked fuel pump feed & turned the key. The little Eunos fired straight into life.... then died. I don't think there's any fuel in the system as it's probably evaporated. While the front of the car was up in the air I pressure washed the underside. I'm really pleased how clean this little car is.
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Mar 15, 2021 18:32:58 GMT
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Great news on the engine fire up...as others have said, a check that the alternator spins freely is a good idea.
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Mar 15, 2021 18:48:34 GMT
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I plan on removing the belts this week to check the pulleys so ye that's a good idea.
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75swb
Beta Tester
Posts: 1,052
Club RR Member Number: 181
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Barn find mx575swb
@75swb
Club Retro Rides Member 181
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Mar 15, 2021 19:54:00 GMT
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Also picked up a roof from a mk2 today with a glass window. The guy was scrapping the car so let me pick at the shell so I had hands full of nuts, bolts, trim & the petrol tank covers as they looked like new. Also got the fuel filler pipework & the rubber surround. Checked my wheels & found them to, be the light weight hollow spokes, which is nice. Win win win! Especially with the engine firing also. Did you get the rain rail from the mk2 or was it shot also?
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Last Edit: Mar 15, 2021 19:54:37 GMT by 75swb
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Mar 15, 2021 21:21:53 GMT
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Great it started but if it's been sitting for 10 years the fuel in the tank will be pretty rank, it probably would be best to drain it and fit a new filter, unfortunaley the stuff in the tank can form varnish like deposits in the tank that are difficult to get rid of, for long term reliability it might be worth just fitting a second hand tank from a recently broken car.
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Mar 16, 2021 18:23:09 GMT
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Also picked up a roof from a mk2 today with a glass window. The guy was scrapping the car so let me pick at the shell so I had hands full of nuts, bolts, trim & the petrol tank covers as they looked like new. Also got the fuel filler pipework & the rubber surround. Checked my wheels & found them to, be the light weight hollow spokes, which is nice. Win win win! Especially with the engine firing also. Did you get the rain rail from the mk2 or was it shot also? Thanks really appreciate the feedback. Unfortunately the rail was goosed so I'm going to order one from ebay.
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Mar 16, 2021 18:24:28 GMT
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Great it started but if it's been sitting for 10 years the fuel in the tank will be pretty rank, it probably would be best to drain it and fit a new filter, unfortunaley the stuff in the tank can form varnish like deposits in the tank that are difficult to get rid of, for long term reliability it might be worth just fitting a second hand tank from a recently broken car. I don't think there is any fuel in the car anyway but I do intend on removing the tank when I drop out the rear subframe.
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Barn find mx5Mercdan68
@forddan68
Club Retro Rides Member 68
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Mar 16, 2021 18:27:36 GMT
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Result !! She fired up and well chuffed for you she don’t seem rotten
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Fraud owners club member 2003 W211 Mercedes E class 1989 Sierra sapphire 1998 ex bt fiesta van
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Mar 16, 2021 20:07:03 GMT
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Result !! She fired up and well chuffed for you she don’t seem rotten Thanks mate I'm really pleased with it so far. Tomorrow after work I'm jacking up the rear end & pulling the wheels off to inspect the ends of the sills & I can poke thr chassis rails front to rear. Hoping not to find anything else.
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Mar 17, 2021 12:48:18 GMT
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So I'm unsure what to do tackle first.
I want to drop out the complete front & rear subframes to complete replace bushes, balljoints, paint etc & tackle the underside of the shell.
The welding needs doing.
I need to replace the roof & door window seals.
The other thing is the cars on my driveway with limited space in my garage so can't put the complete interior & full mech6parts in there all in one.
What would you tackle first?
Fit the replacement Roof & window seals to make it water tight but this means spending money on rain rail & seals which is about £200.
Welding, which is a set of inner & outer rear sills @£85ish plus paint & sourcing a front wing.
Mechanicals including chassis overhaul which ideally I'd like to drop out both subframes as this also gives me access to the floor of the car to clean & then fully underseal.
I need a bit of guidance please.
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Mar 17, 2021 12:57:33 GMT
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For what its worth, I would do the welding first - outlay on panels is quite cheap and if you find the rust is much more extensive than it appears, you haven't shelled out on expensive parts for a scrap shell.
Good luck!
Cortinaman
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Old Fords never die they just go sideways
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glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,359
Club RR Member Number: 64
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Barn find mx5glenanderson
@glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member 64
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Mar 17, 2021 13:16:05 GMT
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Welding/paint/protection first.
Then make it watertight with the new hood etc.
Then do the mechanicals.
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My worst worry about dying is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her it cost...
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Mar 17, 2021 13:30:03 GMT
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Front wing just bolts on but Mazda made the bolts out of cheese so expect a few to snap and need drilling out but even then it's not a difficult Job, it's a good idea to take both off and leaves etc build up at the bottom and rust the sills. that said I just folded up a repair section and welded it into our wing which rotted in the same place.
I would cut all the rot out and do the welding first so I know what I am dealing with before spending much more, if it is local rust It usually takes me 3 or 4 hours to do a rear sill to a filled an primed condition so it's not that big a job, once you have a solid shell anything you fit is pretty much just adding value to it.
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Mar 17, 2021 18:23:27 GMT
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75swb
Beta Tester
Posts: 1,052
Club RR Member Number: 181
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Barn find mx575swb
@75swb
Club Retro Rides Member 181
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Mar 17, 2021 23:37:20 GMT
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Welding/paint/protection first. Then make it watertight with the new hood etc. Then do the mechanicals. This^. Do the mucky horrible jobs on the shell first and then get that right with paint/protection. Once the shell is good do the hood and interior to keep it all watertight and dry, then mechanicals can be done off the car without the risk of damaging the paint or smearing greasy hands on your new hood/interior. Et voila. Sound easy...
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Welding/paint/protection first. Then make it watertight with the new hood etc. Then do the mechanicals. This^. Do the mucky horrible jobs on the shell first and then get that right with paint/protection. Once the shell is good do the hood and interior to keep it all watertight and dry, then mechanicals can be done off the car without the risk of damaging the paint or smearing greasy hands on your new hood/interior. Et voila. Sound easy... I was thinking of getting it water tight with the roof & window glass seals then at least its water tight so once I start the welding I should already be leak free. The roof is shot & the rain rail must be split everywhere as water drips into the car just inside the boot.
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Have you checked the drain holes for the roof drip rail, they are just behind the seat belt mountings and easily get blocked if left under a tree (or in a hedge!)
The last one I did the rear sills on had a similar spot on the chassis rail, as long as it's only the bottom it's easy enough,if you need to go higher the brake and fuel lines become a problem.
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glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,359
Club RR Member Number: 64
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Barn find mx5glenanderson
@glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member 64
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The only issue with fitting a replacement roof before welding etc is making sure a stray spark doesn’t ruin it.
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My worst worry about dying is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her it cost...
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goldnrust
West Midlands
Minimalist
Posts: 1,889
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glenanderson raises a good point. I’d be inclined to invest in a cheap car cover, or something, to keep the water out till you’ve got through the welding / painting stage.
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Mar 18, 2021 10:18:24 GMT
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All good points well made guys. I'll see if I can find a cheap but waterproof cover. I might then remove the roof anyway & bin it so I can check the mounting plates to check they're not rotten.
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