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I'm looking for a new space heater for my garage, a bit of a crappy, semi-derelict, standard single, concrete prefab. I was originally looking at a 2.5/3kW electric heater like this however I have to run power on a 25m extension lead from the porch, so to run something like this is have to buy another extension and run two. Total cost around £75. I do have an old butane fire which will supplement this but not sure how warm I can expect this to make a drafty old concrete section garage. For only a little more I can get a small propane space heater, granted I will need to buy gas on top, but it won't need a second extension lead to run and produces around 3x the BTU/hr. Not sure if this is overkill or not, or which is more suitable/recommended? How long does a 13kg bottle of propane last? I do a bit of spray painting in there so getting it nice and toasty useful but not sure if burning propane is likely to cause issues with paint over an electric heater. Advice and recommendations welcome.
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Project Diary1975 Viva / 1988 T25 Camper / 1989 Mini / 1991 MX5 / 1992 Mini / 1994 Saab 9000 / 1997 Saab 9000 / 2008 Saab 9-5
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donk
Part of things
Posts: 57
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I've just bought the screwfix equivelent of the stanley one. Kicks out a fair amount of heat! My wooden garage isn't insulated yet, but it definitely takes the edge off, and you can notice it! As for the space heater you'll still need to run a power socket to it, as they also run off mains. We use a slightly bigger one at work, using the big red propane bottles. They will last more than one winter, as once its been on a while, it will warm up and if your place can keep the heat in, you won't need to run it all the time. For a small area its up to you really. Gas is more faff, and the electric one will heat but will take a while. Could always buy two for the price of the space?
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"That looks alright"
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My problem is for every electric heater, I need to buy and run a new extension cable because of the current draw. I only have two accessible sockets so that limits me to one for LED lights, tools etc and one for an electric heater, and that makes the price similar (ignoring gas). While the propane heaters do need mains its only to drive the fan (I believe) which can be safely run off the first extension.
I agree, minus the extension leads the electric heaters are less faff and more compact which would be really useful.
Given I'm also spray painting I'm wondering if 'toasty' is going to be a significant benefit over 'takes the edge off'?
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Project Diary1975 Viva / 1988 T25 Camper / 1989 Mini / 1991 MX5 / 1992 Mini / 1994 Saab 9000 / 1997 Saab 9000 / 2008 Saab 9-5
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Jan 17, 2021 11:57:56 GMT
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I would be VERY cautious about any kind of 'direct' heater that just puts all the products of combustion into the building. Obviously, you will need a Carbon Monoxide alarm, but even so all the water vapour and Carbon Dioxide will be emitted into the building. If you then ventilate adequately to prevent the problems of that it rather negates the point of heating in the first place! I would rather use one of the Chinese imitation diesel-fired Webasto clones: www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/diesel-cab-heater.86844/If it's good enough for John it would be good enough for me!
In your case it has the advantage of running off a 12v battery which you can recharge at you leisure.
Edit: even a Facebook user forum!
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Last Edit: Jan 17, 2021 12:00:26 GMT by theoldman
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Jan 17, 2021 12:05:37 GMT
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Hi, Propane gas space heaters do produce water vapour into the atmosphere, not ideal in a painting environment plus it's a naked flame in a solvent heavy atmosphere. What about those diesel heaters that exhaust to the outside and blow hot air into the workshop by way of a heat exchanger, they run off a 12v battery which you can take in at night to charge up. They are supposed to be very frugal. www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1311&_nkw=5kw+diesel+heater+12v&_sacat=0 Colin Edit: Beaten to it, must type faster.
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Last Edit: Jan 17, 2021 12:06:48 GMT by colnerov
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Jan 17, 2021 13:02:42 GMT
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What about a wood burning stove? You won't get the problems with moisture being put into the space and you don't need to worry about getting power to it.
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Paul Y
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,951
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Jan 17, 2021 13:29:53 GMT
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I use a diesel powered space heater to knock the real cold off and then a wood burning stove to just keep a low level heat in the building. I made mine out of a gas bottle so it is not super efficient but have seen stoves, including flue etc, for around £100 on Ebay etc. Solves the problem of a socket and you can burn scrap wood and waste oil so fairly cost effective. P.
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93fxdl
Posted a lot
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Posts: 2,019
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Jan 17, 2021 21:50:40 GMT
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I would suggest starting by trying to reduce draughts and possibly insulating your garage. If you use a 2000w heater that will leave sufficient capacity for most power tools, Ttfn Glenn
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Nathan
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 5,650
Club RR Member Number: 1
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Garage HeaterNathan
@bgtmidget7476
Club Retro Rides Member 1
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Been using one of those Clarke Gas units for the last 12 or so years, before that I had their bigger diesel heater. The gas unit would heat my old garage perfectly, to the point you could work in a T-shirt whilst it was snowing outside. However it does get expensive in terms of gas, I was finding a 47kg cylinder didn't last a month (suppose it does depend on how cold of a person you are). My old garage I just installed a log burner, the the naked flame aspect does worry me.
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Running for any length of time a gas bottle doesn't last long and they aren't £20 a time any longer! A space heater sucks enough gas that ice will form on the bottle. If possible I would insulate and run a proper armoured cable out for power. The Stanley electric heaters are rubbish, you'll get more heat from the mains plug when it melts than they actually put out even working right in front of it. Far better to buy one of the £10 domestic ones of the same rating.
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bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,971
Club RR Member Number: 71
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Garage Heaterbstardchild
@bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member 71
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My problem is for every electric heater, I need to buy and run a new extension cable because of the current draw. I only have two accessible sockets so that limits me to one for LED lights, tools etc and one for an electric heater, and that makes the price similar (ignoring gas). While the propane heaters do need mains its only to drive the fan (I believe) which can be safely run off the first extension. Honestly I'd be looking to upgrade the feed to the garage as a first point Then insulate and draft proof however you can as a second point Only then would I be looking at a heat source that is suitable for the type of activities you do in the garage - I'd avoid any gas powered heat source as I think they put a lot of moisture in the air (Happy to be corrected on this but I just remember water running of the garage door years ago when I used a gas heater perhaps it was really condensation) My garage is 11 m long by 3.5 m wide - I spent a lot of time insulating the ceiling and fitted double glazed UPVC door and window as well as originally insulating the up and over door (since replaced with a insulated roller shutter door) - whatever temperature it is outside it's normally 6 - 8 deg above it inside in the winter (as a bonus it's 8 - 10 deg below it in the summer which makes it a nice place to be when it's hot outside) All I have from a heating perspective is a 2 KW electric fan heater - if I run it for 20-30 mins it's takes the edge off it and it's quite comfortable - I ran it for an hour a few weekends back to rattle can some rocker covers that needed a refurb and the paint dried quite quickly between coats If I am planning to spend a lot of time in the garage I have an old and small electric oil filled rad that I plug in and leave on a lowish setting
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bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,971
Club RR Member Number: 71
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Garage Heaterbstardchild
@bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member 71
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Jan 18, 2021 10:31:46 GMT
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Just to add - money spent on insulation/draft reduction will always mean that the cost to heat after is significantly reduced
If I look back at my winter electricity usage I can almost pinpoint the mile stones where insulation was added or doors and windows upgraded - the insulated roller shutter door hasn't made a huge difference but the old up and over door was pretty well insulated and draft proofed
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Jan 18, 2021 12:28:29 GMT
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Just to add - money spent on insulation/draft reduction will always mean that the cost to heat after is significantly reduced If I look back at my winter electricity usage I can almost pinpoint the mile stones where insulation was added or doors and windows upgraded - the insulated roller shutter door hasn't made a huge difference but the old up and over door was pretty well insulated and draft proofed Yep. You can chuck all the heat in the world into a space, but if its not draught proofed and some insulation you might as well try to heat up the garden.
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slater
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,390
Club RR Member Number: 78
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Garage Heaterslater
@slater
Club Retro Rides Member 78
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Jan 18, 2021 20:04:10 GMT
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Plus one for the derv heater. It exhausts outside so you wont gas yourself or fill the place with condensation. You can get them in most sizes from heating the cab if your truck to a proper industrial heater size.
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Jan 18, 2021 20:33:32 GMT
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We have a canvas curtain we pull accross to seperate the work bench area from the area the cars are kept in this means we only heat a small area.
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pptom
Part of things
Posts: 475
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Been through most types and quite a large garage space, so never really found the perfect solution: Gas space heater and a gas patio heater - nice and warm, but water vapour is a pain and the fumes are worse. Ditched Halogen heater, best for me, heats the body up lovely, but don't seem to warm the space.
Industrial type 3kw fan heater I salvaged, only runs single phase on a 3 pin plug and the specs only recommend it for keeping the frost off, so that kind of tells you what to expect from fan heaters. I do run it though for the phsychological effect.
Oil filled rads, the heat is lost in my space, but might be good in a smaller garage, especially if you could set them up with a timer switch.
I did seriously consider the diesel heaters, there is a Facebook group called something like 'chinese diesel heaters' seem the ideal solution, run on a heat exchanger so the exhaust vents to the outside and it only puts out clean warm air.
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slater
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,390
Club RR Member Number: 78
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Garage Heaterslater
@slater
Club Retro Rides Member 78
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Jan 19, 2021 21:28:04 GMT
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To be fair in alot of cases the halogen style heaters are a great thing to have. If you're working in the same small area all the time they do a really good job of keeping the chill off. Perfect to have behind your work bench or above machines in a machine shop. You can have them on a PIR so it flicks on when your in front of them and even without that they are by far the most energy efficient electric heating as they work by IR radiation rather than convection. Theres no time for the energy to get 'lost' floating up to the ceiling. It warms whatever it hits.
Downsides are they are a bit pricey!
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Jan 19, 2021 21:58:47 GMT
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OK thanks everyone, looks like a diesel heater is the way to go. I'll read up on the links and facebook group but quite like the look of this type for ease of installation/all-in-one package. I do need to look into the requirements for running permanent power out there (garage is at the end of the garden) but imagine it will be too much work and cost for me to undertake in the short term. Was always planned that I'd build a decent workshop in its place (the reason we bought the house) but looks unlikely that will happen for a good while now for a few reasons. Same applies to insulating the garage, I completely get it's the best thing to do but question the value for money and level of achievement on a delapedated old concrete section garage. I will look over it this weekend to find and bodge/cure the drafts but it is inherently a drafty, leaky POS. Not ideal facilities for heating and painting in but it's all I have to make do with, and it's too small to get a car into to work on or paint so it will only ever be smaller panels and bits and bobs. That said, if any of you have any advice for undertaking this work (power and insulation) on a surprisingly small budget I'm all ears and keen. This is the space I have, as someone has suggested I usually make a divide with heavy blankets from the racking on the left to the end of the workbench on the right, so the front half of the garage can be cleared for painting. I was thinking of making space in front of the racking for the heater, and I can run the exhaust out of the wall to a usually inaccessible outside wall so that dogs/children can't hurt themselves on the exhaust. (Mid-tidy so it looks a complete mess. It's not usually that bad. Honest)
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Project Diary1975 Viva / 1988 T25 Camper / 1989 Mini / 1991 MX5 / 1992 Mini / 1994 Saab 9000 / 1997 Saab 9000 / 2008 Saab 9-5
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Jan 20, 2021 16:24:27 GMT
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I used to have a similar garage, one thing I did find was that when you heated it water would condense on the roof panels and drip down, my roof was concrete panels rather than asbestos and that mean the water was laden with lime and alkaline which marked paintwork.
I ended up putting a up some rockwall insulation and then hardboard to fix it.
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Jan 26, 2021 12:55:49 GMT
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I've been considering heating my workshop - not so much for my benefit but in an attempt to maintain temps for the car's sake. One solution I've seen a few people take is either the oil filled electric radiators or a normal house rad with an immersion heater in it. Put it on a low temp on a timer and it should provide a constant background temp.
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