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Nov 12, 2022 23:02:17 GMT
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Now isn't that a dead smart piece of kit! Will likely use that to get something working for the big Triumph.
Thanks for the offer as well Paul. That looks like a pressure switch (simply on/off at a given pressure) rather than a sender (typically more bulky looking things with a variable resistor inside). Would be looking for an M12x1.5 threaded one if you have one knocking around.
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Paul Y
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,951
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Nov 13, 2022 23:00:34 GMT
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Not a problem, the offer was to see if it fitted your engine and if so then it’s easy to pick up a sender. This is actually a sender but the top was knocked off in transit, I ended up using a connector from my box of tat to fit a mechanical oil pressure gauge. Will have a look and see if I have something that will work. P.
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Nov 28, 2022 11:16:23 GMT
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So, the Jag's been running sweetly for quite a while. Changed the injectors for a referbed set so it doesn't chuck so much neat diesel out of the exhaust and it's feeling smoother in the low rev range as well. I've also taken delivery of this enormous girder of a thing: It's a factory tow bar! All 21 kilos of it slightly miffed it'll take me above the 1700kg mark, but towing is useful so it's going on. Quite a neat construction too. These arms bolt into the chassis rails: I think it's for a later car as mine only has 2 of the 3 required holes, but I'm sure that'll be fine. And the bar slots on behind the bumper, taking the place of the old bumper mounts. The loom is a neat little thing that clips in series between two of the lighting plugs on either side, and fits on an irritatingly flimsy bracket in the driver's side corner. Unfortunately it's in a space previously occupied by the ABS unit so I've cable-tied that somewhere safe for now but will probably make a bolt-on bracket somewhere to secure it properly. But with all that done, hey presto! Tow Jag
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Nov 28, 2022 11:18:50 GMT
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It's also occurred to me that I've taken a load of measurements for the M57 but haven't scribbled them down anywhere on here, and it might come in handy for anyone looking to swap one in the future. It's missing the height at the deep end of the sump, but the rest is there.
Longitudinal Gearbox mounting face to front pulley: 28" Gearbox mounting face to aircon: 29" Gearbox mounting face to gearstick (can be cut down by a fair bit if necessary): 30" Pulley to deep part of sump: 17"
Horizontal Crank centreline to ancilliaries RH side: 13" Crank centreline to RH middle: 12" Crank centreline to LH turbo: 13" Crank centreline to LH back of intake filter: 11.5" Same as above but with the 335d cam cover: 9.5"
Vertical Height at shallow end of sump: 23"
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Last Edit: Nov 28, 2022 12:04:39 GMT by biturbo228
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Nov 28, 2022 11:19:17 GMT
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Not a problem, the offer was to see if it fitted your engine and if so then it’s easy to pick up a sender. This is actually a sender but the top was knocked off in transit, I ended up using a connector from my box of tat to fit a mechanical oil pressure gauge. Will have a look and see if I have something that will work. P. Ah thanks man! That'd be helpful
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I confused myself there. I meant Series 3 XJ, but it's a fair point and I have an old Land Rover too so why not do ALL the M57 swaps?! Looking forward to the updates. Haha M57-swap all the things! Wasn't the 5-speed in S3 XJ6s an LT77? If the dimensions add up you could have M57->adapter->Landy gearbox (LT77 or R380)->2WD tailhousing->Jag prop. Plenty of Jag diff ratios to play about with to get the revs right as well. So, I've come across an easier way of doing this if anyone wants to M57 swap something with an LT77. The diesel P38 Rangeys had an M51 with an LT77, and the bellhousing from these fits the M57. Not sure about input shaft length, but should be easy to swap between the various LT77s It's worth noting that the M57 is pretty close to lunching an LT77 at stock torque levels, so possibly only advisable with a stock 184hp/204hp version.
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What about its' evolution, the R380 g/box?
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Ah, I think it was probably an R380 that's in the P38 rather than the LT77. My mistake. Bellhousings are interchangeable though
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Yes, i thought so. The 4WD LT77/R380 g/boxes all have the same ouput shaft which is much longer than a 2WD. Also, the S3 XJ6 3.4 was available with the LT77 but not many people bought the manual car (which only produced a 160 bhp) instead preferring the auto. 2WD R380's are few and far between..........
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So, there's a family ski trip planned next week and seeing as the Jag was built with cross-continental touring in mind I should really take it. That's bumped a couple of jobs on it up to the top of the list. First of which is the leaky boot. These cars are plagued by damp boots, and having tried to fix the problem I can see why! The fuel filler is one the main culprits, but I've previously sorted all the rusty metalwork, slathered the gaps in seam sealer and hylomar blue. The rear screens rust in the corners as well and let water in, but mine are fine. The grommets for the aerial also perish and leak, but I've welded that hole up. Still water getting in. I noticed a bit of water tracking down from this buddy after a particularly heavy shower (plus some rust creeping through the Halfords paint I should really replace...): That's the filler cap lock, and inside it is a magnetic shuttle and a pin. There's a hole that goes out to the filler cap, and can let water in: A little test with a jug of water showed that when it rains heavily enough to fill up faster than the drain can get rid of it, it does indeed bucket through that little hole. I'm expecting there was a seal there once upon a time, but there certainly isn't one now. There's some little retaining tabs for a seal anyway, so I thought I'd make one. First off I found an o-ring that fitted over the pin neatly but not too tightly. I had some 3mm PTFE sheet left over so cut a little square out of that which fit snugly under the retaining tangs. A little drilling and countersinking made this: Throw that all back together and the leak's 90% improved. There's still a little creeping down the welded seam at the back of the boot, so that's next on the list. Then, hopefully, dry boot! My shiny new front springs arrived so I thought I'd pop those on. Spring rate is very nearly 7kg/mm and free length is 377mm. Unfortunately, that made it a bit of a monster truck I'd taken a punt on what I thought the motion ratio was, but clearly I'd got it wrong. From swapping my various springs around I'd thought I'd worked it out to be about 0.74, but adding in this data point in and tweaking my maths it now seems like it's 0.465. Still not 100% convinced I've got the maths right, but if I get a 360mm spring then at least it should be in the range I can tweak it up and down with different thickness spacers. Oh, and also had a little lesson to always be thorough when working with springs. Jag front springs are removed using a sodding great threaded rod that fits through the centre of the spring and locates in the subframe at the top. You then wind it down like so: I will now double-check that the threaded rod has located properly in the subframe before removing the spring rather than relying on feel. Turns out this feels very similar to it being located properly: Luckily I got down to the last inch or two of spring preload before it let go, and I had threaded rods with buts on installed as safeties, but it still made a hell of a bang! Be careful folks.
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Right! Overdue update, but there were a few more things on the priority list before skiing. First of which was the rear shock guide bushes. I'd noticed when fitting them that they were a lot harder than the ones that came out, and as standard they have quite a lot of twisting load on them so I ordered some proper powerflex ones. Whipped the coilovers out and this is what greeted me: Those are 1500 miles old. Not sure if they were very old stock or just poorly specified for the job at hand. Either way the powerflex ones were much more pliable. Their disintegration allowed the shock rod to contact the top plate, wearing a little groove into it: This is actually quite common on these even without the miracle disappearing bush. There's something about the design that puts a lot of side-loading through the shock. Jag changed the design in '94 for the last XJ40s (used as a testbed for X300 improvements). I'd use those, but I don't like the big cast steel wishbone they went to. Anyway, the fix is to dab a bit of weld into the worn area and file it flat again. Here it is halfway through. Next up was to jack the rear up a little. 4 people, their luggage for a week, plus my toolbox/axle stands/jack in case of difficulties weighs quite a bit! I'd misplaced my coilover spanners, but luckily I'd already made a special tool by breaking a g-clamp a couple of years back I finally managed to sort the damp boot after discovering some water pooling in one of the rear lights. A little drain hole drilled in the bottom and a bit of tiger seal in a crack in the top sorted that out. I'll have to come back with pictures of the boot all carpeted as it's a beautiful sight! Lastly my mate and I spent an evening cleaning up the old 15" wheels and fitting new less financially ruinous tyres for motorway touring. Roloc discs are amazing things for cleaning up corrosion but leaving alloy intact. The drive to skiing went very smoothly all the way until we were 4km from the resort! Some numpty had forgotten they'd fitted any old fuse to the fan wiring to test it, and it turns out it was 4 amps These engines run quite cool, and the Jag radiator is massive so it's never used them until the long 20mph slog at high load up the mountainside. Got a little toasty, but it seems to have survived unscathed. Pinched a 30a fuse from the heated rear screen, used the opportunity to set the fan cut-in temperature and we got there safely. Return leg was uneventful. Stunningly comfy, spacious, cruises nicely, and 44mpg on the motorway. What more could you want? Only slight bugbear was the exhaust resonator is fractionally underlength. It's dead quiet at 70mph in the UK, but at 80mph on French motorways there's a little resonance disturbing the peace. About an inch more length should spread the silencing up to 2500rpm and should still be effective at 70. All in all very successful I think! Even managed not to wound myself skiing which is a bonus
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I really like the fact that you took this beast on a ski trip!!💪🏽💪🏽
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philsford
Part of things
Posts: 733
Club RR Member Number: 100
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I like this, what a perfect retro daily driver.
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Such a great thread this! Your fabrication and welding skills are awesome - I dread to think what's hding in those spots on mine given the bubbling on the A pillar
Looking forward to the next update
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thebaron
Europe
Over the river, heading out of town
Posts: 1,659
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Built for ski/snowboard trips these bad boys
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Haha thanks guys! daveyboy Mine looked a little worse than yours, if that's reassuring in any way! The rust had put enough upward pressure in the screen that it cracked in the corner. thebaron Very nice! They are built for those sort of trips in my opinion Do I spy stainless window surrounds on yours? I've got a set of those to go in once mine's been painted. No broader update on the Jag, other than that it's been doing stellar daily driver duty for months! I have finally managed to get another set of front springs for it though. I'll be fitting them soon as the mismatched soft fronts and stiffer rears are causing some iffy ride quality (lots of porpoising over crests and dips) which just won't do in a Jaaag It does at least have its good shoes back on, and has been doing sterling duty towing various trailers across Kent as I sort the rest of my life out
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Last Edit: Jul 10, 2023 10:42:50 GMT by biturbo228
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Sept 26, 2023 12:25:01 GMT
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Very little to report on the Jag I'm afraid, other than that it's been performing daily duties with aplomb. Quick glamour shot I snapped recently. Now that I've got the Rover as a backup car I'm hoping to cross off a few of the remaining bits and pieces. Manifold to turbo seal needs replacing, I've got my new taller front springs as it's been bottoming out on speedbumps recently, and it's about due for a general service.
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75swb
Beta Tester
Posts: 1,052
Club RR Member Number: 181
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Sept 26, 2023 19:20:54 GMT
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This thing is so epic, and certainly no complaints when a car just works for a change! Whilst I do like the current rough paint, wild turn of speed mantra of the jag, is it getting a respray at some point? I think the mismatched panels are somehow less subtle than it being all 1 colour. To my mind 1 colour = old giffers car bought back in the day and cared for, multicolour = someone's working on the bodywork, lets have a closer look, wonder if they're working on the engine too. Only my 2c of course.
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Sept 26, 2023 20:49:23 GMT
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Very little to report on the Jag I'm afraid, other than that it's been performing daily duties with aplomb. Quick glamour shot I snapped recently. Now that I've got the Rover as a backup car I'm hoping to cross off a few of the remaining bits and pieces. Manifold to turbo seal needs replacing, I've got my new taller front springs as it's been bottoming out on speedbumps recently, and it's about due for a general service. What wheels are they? They look brilliant!
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Sept 26, 2023 22:04:59 GMT
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This thing is so epic, and certainly no complaints when a car just works for a change! Whilst I do like the current rough paint, wild turn of speed mantra of the jag, is it getting a respray at some point? I think the mismatched panels are somehow less subtle than it being all 1 colour. To my mind 1 colour = old giffers car bought back in the day and cared for, multicolour = someone's working on the bodywork, lets have a closer look, wonder if they're working on the engine too. Only my 2c of course. Haha thanks man! Yes it will be getting a respray, just need to build a garage to do it in first! I do love tooling around with the mismatched panels, and it does suit the diesel, but I loved how it looked in the original red. Somehow with the different coloured panels you lose a bit of a fuselagey nature which just looks awesome from the rear 5 o'clock view or so. What wheels are they? They look brilliant! Yeah they do suit it! They're Japan Racing JR9s, 17x8.5 ET20. I've always thought 18s never had quite enough sidewall for an XJ40 but wanted a step up from the 16" basketweaves. Rears are 255 45s and fit perfectly. I did have 235/50s on the front but they caught on the arch liners at the front so stepped down to 235/45s which are a little undersize. Not sure if that's to do with how low it was at the front, the extra caster I put in by reshimming the upper balljoint, or just them being too wide.
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Last Edit: Sept 26, 2023 22:05:21 GMT by biturbo228
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