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Sept 9, 2021 18:18:48 GMT
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Making good progress A minor correction though, kunifer (and steel) does work harden just not as quickly as copper, they all need supporting properly. There is a lot of misunderstanding around copper, if you drop the stress to a low level (ie clip it regularly) kunifer and steel will never work harden, this never happens in copper it will always eventually harden to the point it becomes brittle, this may be 10,000 years if it is clipped to the point it doesent vibrate though so in reality much the same result. Clearly kunifer is a preferrable and more forgiving material but I wouldn't rush out to change a properly installed copper line either. I am happy to learn and always prefer the easier route, of course. Making good progress A minor correction though, kunifer (and steel) does work harden just not as quickly as copper, they all need supporting properly. There is a lot of misunderstanding around copper, if you drop the stress to a low level (ie clip it regularly) kunifer and steel will never work harden, this never happens in copper it will always eventually harden to the point it becomes brittle, this may be 10,000 years if it is clipped to the point it doesent vibrate though so in reality much the same result. Clearly kunifer is a preferrable and more forgiving material but I wouldn't rush out to change a properly installed copper line either. Yeah, everything work hardens ( any metal that you can build stuff out of, that I know of, anyway). But for the sake of easy conversation, we kind of divide it into metals that are not likely to fail from work hardening and those that might. And even then, like in the case of copper, some racing organisations at some point (Dutch NAV for example ) recommended that all production car based racers had their brakelines changed to copper. ( after some brake failures due to rusted brakelines ) I did that, those lines were on my car for at least 25 years, until I went back to steel ( for the reasons I mentioned, not because there were any problems...) And that was OK too. After a quarter of a century I got my moneys worth out of them...  And because of more experience and better tools, I was able to do a much nicer job. I think as always experience in the real world is what makes all the sharing and learning on here so good. Those subframes have come up very well. 👍 Thanks Glen, A ton of work and actually many more hours spent than it deserves. But, as I said to Dennis in St Louis earlier, at least it will look good if it ends up on its roof in a ditch. It was great meeting up with you yesterday mate, Likewise I thoroughly enjoyed our chat, Nigel We are people of common interest here Nigel, I would say we would enjoy having anyone on this forum coming down to the carport for a natter and a brew. Can't beat pulling knot wheel threads out of your arm. Aldi ones, as being a good price, seem to resist driving bits of wire deep into body parts rather well. I tend to buy a few each time they are on special. I just cannot be arsed with finding parking and waiting inline behind 5 or 6 loaded shopping trolleys. Aldi does not make the shopping experience that special. Making good progress A minor correction though, kunifer (and steel) does work harden just not as quickly as copper, they all need supporting properly. There is a lot of misunderstanding around copper, if you drop the stress to a low level (ie clip it regularly) kunifer and steel will never work harden, this never happens in copper it will always eventually harden to the point it becomes brittle, this may be 10,000 years if it is clipped to the point it doesent vibrate though so in reality much the same result. Clearly kunifer is a preferrable and more forgiving material but I wouldn't rush out to change a properly installed copper line either. Only time I've had a copper line fail in the 35 yrs I've been playing with cars was when it became a structural component between the side panel on a Lotus 7 lookalike and the suspension mount. Had a kunifer one bust on a second hand Omega - the one that crosses the rear trailing arm - wasn't aware it wasn't clipped in until the pedal noticeably dropped and I heard a "pop" under braking . . . being on a suspension component, it obviously got a serious working out. What is worrying is seeing how other people secure pipes on kit cars, or when they can't be bothered to properly route replacement lines on production cars, or replace the clips they broke getting the old lines off. Not sure how I will be securing the new lines to the chassis. Ductape of course always springs to mind. I know you bought the wire wheels already, but those fibre discs are beasts for stripping without wrecking the metal under. I really wish I'd found them earlier - don't polish the metal like cup brushes do, making you think you've removed the rust, when all you've done is shone it up. I found a local guy doing blasting - rather than spend a lot of time, wearing out discs, wheels, grinders, my arms, eyes, and the neighbours tolerance with the noisy twast next-door, I just dumped stuff with him with a wide time scale to do it . . . a few quid and a week or so later, I had clean components. He did my Alfa sub-frame - quoted me 50 quid beforehand - when I went to collect it, he was worried he had gone too high, as it took him minutes to do - I pointed out if I did it, it would have taken hours, curse word all around me off, and I still wouldn't have done it as well - 50 quid was a bargain I was happy with. The blasted finish is perfect of application of epoxy primers too. Paying a fair price for a job well done is always a pleasure. |
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Sept 9, 2021 19:23:45 GMT
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So today I created about 75 minutes early morning…… Followed by stealing some time this afternoon from work, clocking out at 4.00pm So I painted the once side, then the other, taking one wheel off at a time to create easier access. At this point I ran out of paint this morning……. I sis not paint the springs or shocks as I am planning to add shorter springs and shocks, if I can find them, or else follow the teachings of the master Paul Y and call in Mr Grinder for a loop or two.  So at lunchtime, taken at 4.00pm I ran into the village and got lucky, the local hardware guy, normally overpriced, had 1 liter of smooth Black Hammerite for £20.00 which is what B&Q charge for 750ml Then back home and straight into finishing off the painting, and adding touch up and a second coat on parts of the structure. Done. Top side.  Bottom view.  I am contemplating going for vented Ford Capri 2.8 front discs and callipers. And then of course my good mate JB Mathews in Oklahoma challenged me today, asking if the MX5 brakes and discs could not be transfered. So there is tonights challenge question. Ready for me to buy the Poly Bushes needed for the rebushing.  Looking for something else for work today, I found this little rocket pic. Reminded me that I still want or need to create a logo for the Rezin Rockit  Original  One year later this is getting better every day for me. Lockdown and working from home is not ideal. Therapy I guess. |
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Last Edit: Sept 9, 2021 19:29:27 GMT by grizz
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mk2cossie
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 3,055 
Club RR Member Number: 77
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Sept 9, 2021 19:56:45 GMT
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Quick and easy answer, the MX-5 brakes won't fit the mk3/4/5 Cortina upright. Capri vented would most likely be the easiest/cheaper option with stock Ford parts |
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Sept 9, 2021 20:49:37 GMT
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Do you need vented discs?
Rule of thumb is, with brakes, that bigger is better.
But given the weight difference between a stock 'Tina and the rocket, I doubt you'd ever cook the stock ones.
( plus potentially increasing the unsprung weight )
So personally, I'd only go to vented if that mod wouldnt count against the car with the UK points system.
( penalizing people for improving their brakes is baffling to me, but it seems that is the system you are stuck with...)
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Sept 9, 2021 21:04:38 GMT
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Quick and easy answer, the MX-5 brakes won't fit the mk3/4/5 Cortina upright. Capri vented would most likely be the easiest/cheaper option with stock Ford parts Do you need vented discs? Rule of thumb is, with brakes, that bigger is better. But given the weight difference between a stock 'Tina and the rocket, I doubt you'd ever cook the stock ones. ( plus potentially increasing the unsprung weight ) So personally, I'd only go to vented if that mod wouldnt count against the car with the UK points system. ( penalizing people for improving their brakes is baffling to me, but it seems that is the system you are stuck with...) The brakes on the front are pretty crappy looking. Missing one calliper, dust shield one side is mangled and the discs probably need replacing or machining. So looking at the cost of fixing what is there, vs replacing with an upgrade, I think the upgrade makes more sense. Also, I may have the opportunity to trade some Capri 2.8 callipers for some Peugeot brakes that I still need to source. Not sure how it will all come together, but I think stopping power in a silly toy/tool cannot be a bad thing. |
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Sept 9, 2021 21:46:24 GMT
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I've got non vented cirtina discs and std m16 calipers on the front of my TR7V8, with greenstuff pads I've never had any fade problems, tbat weighs around 1050kg so the rocket at probably around 750kg should be fine on them.
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Sept 9, 2021 21:52:56 GMT
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Quick and easy answer, the MX-5 brakes won't fit the mk3/4/5 Cortina upright. Capri vented would most likely be the easiest/cheaper option with stock Ford parts Rally Design sell all of that; the discs and brand callipers that don't need spacers and all the bolts. Just add brake pads. |
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Sept 10, 2021 8:24:08 GMT
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At £125 for a new pair of calipers and vented discs, it's a bit of a no brainer.
It's amazing how cheap these things are now, I've just bought a new pair of the massive 4 pots on the range rover for £90 delivered from a reputable supplier.
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Last Edit: Sept 10, 2021 8:24:26 GMT by kevins
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Sept 10, 2021 8:59:07 GMT
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Given that you may want extra power later and you don't have the parts now , I would lean towards 'future proofing' the setup ... |
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Sept 10, 2021 18:00:59 GMT
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I've got non vented cirtina discs and std m16 calipers on the front of my TR7V8, with greenstuff pads I've never had any fade problems, tbat weighs around 1050kg so the rocket at probably around 750kg should be fine on them. I get you. However, how much difference in the price of Cortina vs Capri 2.8 vented items? I do agree though that the originals will be sufficient. Quick and easy answer, the MX-5 brakes won't fit the mk3/4/5 Cortina upright. Capri vented would most likely be the easiest/cheaper option with stock Ford parts Rally Design sell all of that; the discs and brand callipers that don't need spacers and all the bolts. Just add brake pads. I do like simplicity. Bolt on, Bolt off. And the prices it seem are reasonable.. At £125 for a new pair of calipers and vented discs, it's a bit of a no brainer. It's amazing how cheap these things are now, I've just bought a new pair of the massive 4 pots on the range rover for £90 delivered from a reputable supplier. Agreed. I looked at Euro Carparts and it seemed cheap. Given that you may want extra power later and you don't have the parts now , I would lean towards 'future proofing' the setup ... Even if naothing happens, it is good to have the best options list ticked. . |
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Sept 10, 2021 18:03:33 GMT
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glenanderson and I have discussed this earlier, but I need a lot more info. So the Rezin Rockit is due for a full Polybush makeover. forum.retro-rides.org/thread/215488/grizz-purgatory-rezin-rockit-yearSo this is a kit available from floflex floflex.co.uk/product/cortina-mk45-front-rear-set-inc-x-mem/ Cost is £152.00 plus shipping, probably £160.00 landed. I have looked at the parts and tried to identify and align the various bushes with parts of the front and rear suspensions and crossmember I have failed…… Has anyone done this swap before and used these products? If so, based on this photo from the advertising online, can you identify where they,go ?  And related to this as far as I can see, the rear has a 16mm Anti Roll Bar which I do not believe has bushes in the kit. .jpg) .jpg) .jpg) So question no 2 for anyone who knows their Fords………. Is there a bush kit, or way to replace these bushes? The one is a double with the one side having a 12mm bolt keeping it in place, the outer diameters are 25 and 30mm for the two ends where they are bushed. Any advice, thank you.
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mk2cossie
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 3,055
Club RR Member Number: 77
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Sept 10, 2021 21:03:44 GMT
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That kit picture looks to have the steering rack mounts, and the subframe to body bushes too. Which I do believe you don't have on the Resin Rockit May be worth a phone call to them and see if they do a kit minus the subframe bushes |
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Sept 10, 2021 21:37:01 GMT
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Paul Y
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,950
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Sept 10, 2021 21:50:19 GMT
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That looks like it would be a lot of...fun! P.  |
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Sept 11, 2021 7:20:27 GMT
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Just for info. carparts4less use euro car parts as a supplier but give between 17 and 20 % off. Just used them for my XC90 service and all was good.
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Sept 11, 2021 7:44:36 GMT
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Some responses on the poly bushes. I wouldn't do the rear, they're a plop design and need the flex of rubber bushes to function correctly as the geometry is terrible. I'd always opt for the D bushes in poly, wouldn't necessarily do the arb ends in poly. And from Rods n Sods |
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Last Edit: Sept 11, 2021 7:45:27 GMT by grizz
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Sept 11, 2021 7:56:59 GMT
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That kit picture looks to have the steering rack mounts, and the subframe to body bushes too. Which I do believe you don't have on the Resin Rockit May be worth a phone call to them and see if they do a kit minus the subframe bushes I did message them yesterday to enquire about the rear ARB bushes, and also deleting those subframe bushes from the order. No reply yet, maybe 3.00pm,on a Friday is drinking time, which is fine. My untrained eye, and perspective of the pic on the website does make me wonder if, and how all bases are covered. Thanks. I like that a lot, and that style. Not something I would build or attempt to build, but could imagine owning it, nonetheless. That looks like it would be a lot of...fun! P. Of course it would be, with you driving it would soon be known as The Zebra…….. Black stripes and White smoke. Just for info. carparts4less use euro car parts as a supplier but give between 17 and 20 % off. Just used them for my XC90 service and all was good. So weird that, obviously Euro make money, then they “give it away” I will certainly vote with my wallet though. Off to the garage in a few minutes as soon as Sally leaves. I really want to try complete cleaning the chassis top and then the bottom with the knot-wheels. And maybe get it primered before dark today. Fingers crossed. |
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Sept 11, 2021 7:58:10 GMT
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Some good advice there, personally, not sure about 'mixing' bush materials front 'n back ... BUT, my experience is with 'original' cars not kit cars where weights and loadings are different. Give the polybush guys a call they shoud be able to give the right information (fingers crossed! ) |
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Last Edit: Sept 11, 2021 7:58:57 GMT by westbay
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Sept 11, 2021 9:06:12 GMT
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Anyone got a PASSENGER side lower trailing arm to sell? Or know where a new one can be procured?? Seems we have a problem Houston. Some Brain Surgeon welded the bush in on the leading end. Welded both sides.   PM please if you do. |
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Sept 11, 2021 9:08:56 GMT
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Anyone got a PASSENGER side lower trailing arm to sell? Or know where a new one can be procured?? Seems we have a problem Houston. Some Brain Surgeon welded the bush in on the leading end. Welded both sides. PM please if you do. At least they didn't weld it all the way around. Just think of it as a good chance to practice your surgical grinding techniques... It also suggests that the bush has been changed several times - it is a Cortina - and the hole is a bit loose. Like the E-type arm I did a few years back; knocked off the tack welds that some bodger had previously put there and pushed the bush out with my thumb. The new one got tacked in too  |
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