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My Lexus is making embarrassing noises (I think the offside topmount is on the way out), so I tucked it away in the garage and got the Deliboy out for a Sunday drive. Very pleasant it was too. Lots of people out walking took time to stop and stare, and when I paused to take a photo a man appeared out of his house to strike up a conversation about it. It's a very sociable vehicle. I passed through a couple of rain showers, which demonstrated the effectiveness of the wipers, and also highlighted that the driver's side wiper sweeps slightly further than I had seen in earlier testing. I've cleaned and polished the glass since fitting the driver side wiper, so there is less friction on the screen, and there was plenty of rainwater. So, once I got home I set about doing some fine-tuning of the parked wiper positions. Amusingly, the nuts are different sizes, so I needed two spanners: The final result looks almost like it's supposed to, and the rain re-appeared to help with the testing: I am happy.
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Last Edit: Jan 4, 2021 12:21:36 GMT by Flingstam
1991 Toyota Deliboy (RWD JDM LCV) - Now SOLD 1998 Lexus LS400 (RWD EUR VIP) - Also GONE 1989 Volvo 740 GLE (RWD EUR GLE)
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Amusingly, the nuts are different sizes, so I needed two spanners:I am happy. Different sized nuts in itself could be embarrassing. However, it seems to be par for the course. Wipers are so important and like driving with your side/park lights on at sunset, it boggles the mind that people carry on like that. Good result.
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Jan 31, 2021 20:07:49 GMT
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I've had to return to do a little tuning of the wiper mechanism, again. Increased rainfall has highlighted the fact that when there is sufficient lubricant (i.e. water) and a high enough wiper speed, the driver's wiper clears the screen, windscreen rubber and A pillar. That's not ideal. If you don't have your hand outside the window (in the pouring rain) to catch it and push it back, it activates the overload protection on the wiper motor (a function which normally protects the motor when someone is stupid enough to try to wipe 10Kg of snow off their screen using only the wipers). This means that the entire mechanism stops for about 30 seconds until it decides that it's safe to try again. In order to reduce the sweep of the wiper, I needed to lengthen the lever arm on the other side of the pivot axis. A dedicated Engineer would have measured the lateral stroke of the linkage, the length of the link arm and the actual Vs desired angular rotation of the wiper to then calculate the optimum link length, and then cut and welded the link to the correct length. Some of these measurements could be tricky (particularly measuring the lateral stroke inside the box section of the scuttle), and all of them were inconvenient, so I elected to adopt a trial and error approach. I have a lot of experience with errors, so just had to increase the trial side to match. As I have no welding equipment (or the necessary skills to use them properly), I also decided to make a sandwich. Of steel. With another piece of steel in the middle to prevent the two seperated halves rotating relative to each other, and a blob or two of epoxy resin to fill in the voids. It looks like a toddler's attempt at Meccano. This method did however allow me more than one attempt to get the length right. The first prototype extended the link length by just under 15mm, but that reduced the sweep too much. The second attempt involved a 12mm extension, which was better. Not ideal, but close enough for now. I think the optimum length increase would probably be closer to 9 or 10mm. I'll see how it goes with the one I have now, and if I decide to improve it further I'll pay £13.50 to get another Hiace linkage assembly from Ali Express and modify it more carefully. A quick spray of stonechip protector to stave off corrosion, and I threw the whole shebang back together again. Fortunately, my 'work' is entirely hidden once installed: The other end shows (kind of) the clip which holds the large Hiace cup onto the small Deliboy ball: If anyone needs my 'fabrication' skills, I can refer them to a good psychiatrist...
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Last Edit: Jan 31, 2021 21:29:07 GMT by Flingstam
1991 Toyota Deliboy (RWD JDM LCV) - Now SOLD 1998 Lexus LS400 (RWD EUR VIP) - Also GONE 1989 Volvo 740 GLE (RWD EUR GLE)
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Function over Form
That’s all.
No psychiatrist needed.
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Feb 15, 2021 11:10:40 GMT
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I ordered 2 gearknobs in December from Ali Express. One arrived in just over a week, but the other was put on a literal slow boat from China, so it's only just turned up. It's quite an interesting thing. It's described as a 'red Carbon fibre' finish, and it does indeed appear to be some kind of woven material under the clear coating. However, it's wrapped around a solid ball of aluminium, so it's certainly a bit heavier than real carbon fibre. Just to recap my not-sex-toys selection of gearknobs from Ali Express, this is what I now have available to me: You will note that my balls are different sizes. The new red one is slightly more comfortable in the hand, but doesn't glow in the dark. I've placed the red one on the van for now to evaluate if the size and weight are appropriate. If it turns out to be too heavy, I'll revert to the all-plastic glowing one. I'm doing some experimentation with a revised headlamp arrangement, but it doesn't look like all the components will be available before my next MOT is due on the 4th of March, so yesterday I replaced the wonky mis-matched bulbs with a generic pair of H4 bulbs from Halfords. This is what I removed. You'll notice that they're not the same: No chance that this arrangement would pass an MOT, so they're out for good. The LED unit is interesting though, with a built-in cooling fan in it's base. The fan is loud enough that you can clearly hear it from inside the cab when the engine isn't running. I've added these bulbs to the motley assortment of junk at the back of the garage, ready for future experiments which will at no point be presented in front of an MOT tester.
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Last Edit: Feb 15, 2021 13:48:09 GMT by Flingstam
1991 Toyota Deliboy (RWD JDM LCV) - Now SOLD 1998 Lexus LS400 (RWD EUR VIP) - Also GONE 1989 Volvo 740 GLE (RWD EUR GLE)
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Feb 19, 2021 15:23:24 GMT
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Time marches on, and the MOT is becoming increasingly more imminenter. You may remember that after a bit of scraping and poking, my front chassis crossmember (to which the body mounts and the bottle jack lifts) looked a bit like this: Well, after a brief visit with Victor the mechanic today, it now looks like this: Much more betterer. The MOT is booked for the 2nd of March. It'll be fine, I'm sure.
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Last Edit: Feb 19, 2021 15:40:40 GMT by Flingstam
1991 Toyota Deliboy (RWD JDM LCV) - Now SOLD 1998 Lexus LS400 (RWD EUR VIP) - Also GONE 1989 Volvo 740 GLE (RWD EUR GLE)
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Feb 20, 2021 19:45:04 GMT
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Welding makes for excel enter future prospects.
Little jobs.
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Since buying the Deliboy back in July last year, I had a nagging doubt about how well it would do in an MOT. Obviously the single wiper wasn't great, the engine clearly hadn't been serviced in a while, the rear tyres were shot, the wheels were a stupid combination of unsuitable sizes, and it turned out that at least 3 of the brakes had issues. There was evidence of a little rust on the chassis, and the exhaust was noisy (but not obviously leaky). The engine was more leaky, and the cooling system also got a bit emotional (but neither has led to any real issues beyond fixing a coolant leak). In the intervening months, it's been to 3 different garages (one of which only managed to change the oil and plugs, so that was worthwhile...), and received professional attention at each. I've ordered parts from 4 different countries, and engaged in some worthwhile DIY tasks and blatant ham-fisted bodgery, all of which has led to today. So... it passed it's MOT with no advisories. Extraordinary. I dropped it off with Victor the mechanic this morning, and he took it round to the MOT testing station (he is considerably more charming than I am, and I thought this might help ). It's more solid underneath than many of the modern cars Victor has to deal with, and I think the MOT inspector was suitably impressed. It's not every day a 30 year old JDM van turns up so you can literally poke and laugh at it, after all. A job well done. Now to keep on fiddling with it. There is another package on it's way from Japan right now...
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Last Edit: Mar 2, 2021 15:38:16 GMT by Flingstam
1991 Toyota Deliboy (RWD JDM LCV) - Now SOLD 1998 Lexus LS400 (RWD EUR VIP) - Also GONE 1989 Volvo 740 GLE (RWD EUR GLE)
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JUST BLOODY MARVELLOUS
WELL DONE MATE.
You have been fettling all the right bits.
Result.
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JUST BLOODY MARVELLOUS WELL DONE MATE. You have been fettling all the right bits. Result. Great news and I'll just second what Grizz said
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I had a look at changing the headlamps yesterday. After removing the grille and headlight surrounds, I was left with this: The headlamp bezels are held on by 4 screws each, so I just need to unscrew... oh plums... All the screws are showing advanced states of decomposition, so they weren't going to come off without a fight. I'm happy to fight them, but I didn't have anything to replace them with, so instead I put the plastics back on and went to B&Q I wasn't the only person there in a yellow car, but mine was certainly more practical. I assume this person was only buying seeds or something like that: So, I looked up the required parts on the internet, and discovered today that the cost of getting them from my local Toyota dealer is about the same as from Japan, just with a shorter delivery time. Fortunately, these screws were used in millions of Toyotas for many years, so there's no lack of local supply. I'll try again next weekend...
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Last Edit: Mar 8, 2021 10:36:02 GMT by Flingstam
1991 Toyota Deliboy (RWD JDM LCV) - Now SOLD 1998 Lexus LS400 (RWD EUR VIP) - Also GONE 1989 Volvo 740 GLE (RWD EUR GLE)
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I like quick wins, even if it takes 8 months to get around to them. One of the first things Tony pointed out when he handed the van over to me in Exeter last July was that there was a pronounced rattle from the gearlever in 3rd and 5th gears. I've lived with it since then, but it does get a bit annoying, especially when it's starts rattling when cruising along a dual carriageway or motorway (not really the Deliboy's natural habitat, but these things happen). There are two potential sources of rattle. The main vertical column of the shift mechanism has a lot of movement in it, as it runs parallel with the steering column, but is only fixed at the top and the bottom. The top mounting might have a worn bush in it's assembly somewhere, as it moves around more than I'd expect. The other rattle was coming from the horizontal shift lever. Upon closer inspection, it was clear that the little rubber boot was showing it's age. Some components of the shifter assembly are shared across various Toyota column-shift vehicles, so I was surprised and delighted to find that this little boot/sleeve is still available. It arrived from Japan yesterday, and I took a few minutes of my lunch time to run out and fit it. There is a pin and an e-clip holding the lever in place, which I released after a brief struggle. Before/After: Installed: They don't look much different, but there is a significant reduction in rattle. A very pleasing improvement. Of course, everything else on the van still rattles and makes noise, but an improvement is an improvement.
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Last Edit: Mar 10, 2021 8:55:16 GMT by Flingstam
1991 Toyota Deliboy (RWD JDM LCV) - Now SOLD 1998 Lexus LS400 (RWD EUR VIP) - Also GONE 1989 Volvo 740 GLE (RWD EUR GLE)
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Paul
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,999
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Mar 13, 2021 18:08:41 GMT
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Little jobs like that are often the most satisfying...one of the wipers on my 911 was missing a little plastic cover no more than an inch round on the scuttle. Took me 12 months to get around to replacing it 😂😂😂
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Mar 18, 2021 10:41:36 GMT
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Right, time to tell the headlights story. As you may recall, a previous owner in the UK decided to fit some replacement aftermarket headlights with LED running lights. Not a terrible idea, until you turn on the actual lights and see this: An LED bulb on the passenger side, a halogen bulb on the driver's side, and a beam pattern that looks like it's shining through a kaleidoscope. Not good. The first step was to fit matching halogen bulbs which were MOT-compliant. However, it doesn't correct the wonky beam pattern, which is purely a function of badly-designed reflectors. I've used my local headlight-testing road for the rest of the photos, to maintain some consistency. It's an uphill slope, which is slightly misleading, but at least all the photos are taken from the same spot, so it's easy to compare. Dipped beam on halogens: Notice that the funky light patterns spread far over to the right, and quite high. I have had quite a few people flash back at me when they've been dazzled by my dipped beams. The actual alignment is OK, it's just the light distribution pattern which is out of my control. Main beam is actually worse: The pattern evens out, and it lights up more of the hedge (and the sky), but LESS of the road. That's not just counter-intuitive, it's stupid. So, the decision to replace the headlight assemblies was very easy. I could either get better-designed halogen units with either patterned or clear 'crystal' lenses, or try out some LED units. After a bit of research, I stumbled across some LEDs on eBay which were a similar price to the halogen housings, so I decided it was worth a shot. It was important to ensure that any changes I made to the lighting were completely reversible, so I wasn't planning on drilling any (more) holes in the body, and I certainly wasn't about to start chopping about the wiring harness. To this end, I sourced a link harness with built-in relays and a direct 12v feed from the battery. It takes the switching signal from one headlight connector and powers both headlights. Plug and play. Or rather, it would be if I'd bought the right harness at the first attempt. Toyotas of this era use a switched ground to alternate between dipped and main beam, and the first harness I received wasn't set up for this, so I needed to return it and try again with a Toyota-specific set (which looks almost identical, but actually works). First attempt: Testing: The LED units came with adaptors to allow the wiring connections to be adjusted, which is a nice idea in practice, but doesn't allow you to swap from switched live to switched ground connections. All it meant was that I could have only dipped beam or only main beam. Not both. Second attempt: Success:
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1991 Toyota Deliboy (RWD JDM LCV) - Now SOLD 1998 Lexus LS400 (RWD EUR VIP) - Also GONE 1989 Volvo 740 GLE (RWD EUR GLE)
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Mar 18, 2021 10:42:59 GMT
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The only element that didn't work in this configuration was the high beam warning light in the dash display. The spare headlight connector on the driver's side can have something connected to it to provide sufficient resistance for this to work, but again the plug-in unit I received wasn't set up for the Toyota switching strategy, so I'm currently waiting on other resistors to arrive from China which should re-enable the warning light. Fortunately, there is such a massive difference between dipped and main beam that I shouldn't get confused in the meantime. I picked up non-rusty headlamp bezel screws from my local Toyota dealer, and got to work. Removing the rusty screws without damaging the threads in the brackets was quite a challenge. I drilled into the screws, but 2 types of bolt extractor couldn't grip the screws enough to persuade them to turn. In the end, a careful application of more drilling, hammering and twisting with various hand tools removed the upper screws. The lower ones put up more of a fight, and my small diameter drill bit was getting blunt, so I gave up and carefully bent the bezels far enough to remove and replace the headlight units. I also took the opportunity to remove someone else's shoddy and haphazard additional wiring before replacing it with my own. Halfway there: The new wiring is reassuringly protected and checked for some form of quality, apparently: After carefully routing and securing the harness across the front of the engine bay without getting too close to any fans, belts or heat sources, I could do a final function check before reassembling the trim: The lenses built into the units to direct the LED light output mean that most of the lamp appears black. This lends a bit of a menacing cyborg look to the front end of this goofy vehicle: Before/After:
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1991 Toyota Deliboy (RWD JDM LCV) - Now SOLD 1998 Lexus LS400 (RWD EUR VIP) - Also GONE 1989 Volvo 740 GLE (RWD EUR GLE)
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Mar 18, 2021 10:45:17 GMT
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In dipped beam mode, only the upper LEDs illuminate, focusing down onto the road surface, and providing width without dazzling oncoming drivers: Main beam illuminates through the biggest lens, projecting light everywhere else: I set the headlight alignment quite conservatively at first, to ensure I'm not an annoyance or hazard to other road users. The cut-off of the light pattern at the top is quite pronounced: Main beam is a bit different: My neighbour spotted me heading out for testing: Out on the test road, the conservative alignment and beam cut-off is very easy to recognise. Only drivers of Caterhams and Morgan 3-wheelers are likely to be disturbed. I'll gradually adjust the beam upwards to illuminate more of the road without causing offence: And if you were wondering how tall the hedges are, please refer to this image of main beam: The road surface here climbs up and then descends slightly, so it's a little misleading. The actual length of coverage in main beam is outstanding. No need for a WRC light pod for the speeds I'll be driving at. Before and after, on main beam: So, in summary, a massive improvement for a small investment, and all reversible if the LED units decide to fail or MOT requirements change again. I'm happy with that.
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Last Edit: Mar 18, 2021 10:48:23 GMT by Flingstam
1991 Toyota Deliboy (RWD JDM LCV) - Now SOLD 1998 Lexus LS400 (RWD EUR VIP) - Also GONE 1989 Volvo 740 GLE (RWD EUR GLE)
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1991 Toyota Deliboy fr€$h&m1nt¥
@freshandminty
Club Retro Rides Member 99
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Mar 18, 2021 10:49:09 GMT
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Headlights are right up my street, blending in with the grill and headlamp surrounds nicely.
I need to tweak my dipped beam lamps up higher as they’re little use at all except when I have them on main beam.
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brachunky
Scotland
Posts: 1,339
Club RR Member Number: 72
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1991 Toyota Deliboy brachunky
@brachunky
Club Retro Rides Member 72
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Mar 18, 2021 14:13:35 GMT
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Great result I would say! Its been good to read your comment and the photo's of those led units as I have a similar issue with my Chevy 1500. Those headlights look remarkably similar to the chevys so would you be kind enough to provide a link please? I replaced mine with new sealed beams but they are still pants!
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Mar 18, 2021 14:43:17 GMT
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Great result I would say! Its been good to read your comment and the photo's of those led units as I have a similar issue with my Chevy 1500. Those headlights look remarkably similar to the chevys so would you be kind enough to provide a link please? I replaced mine with new sealed beams but they are still pants! Hello! The very same units will fit your truck. They are a pretty universal fit (basically every rectangular sealed beam unit from every US and Japanese manufacturer). On top of that, the price has reduced since I bought mine. Go to eBay here (other sellers and prices are available): link
You'll also most probably need a power boost/relay harness to run them, but I can't guarantee the spec for your truck. It will be something like this: Harness
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Last Edit: Mar 18, 2021 14:53:55 GMT by Flingstam
1991 Toyota Deliboy (RWD JDM LCV) - Now SOLD 1998 Lexus LS400 (RWD EUR VIP) - Also GONE 1989 Volvo 740 GLE (RWD EUR GLE)
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brachunky
Scotland
Posts: 1,339
Club RR Member Number: 72
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1991 Toyota Deliboy brachunky
@brachunky
Club Retro Rides Member 72
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Mar 18, 2021 15:43:48 GMT
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Great result I would say! Its been good to read your comment and the photo's of those led units as I have a similar issue with my Chevy 1500. Those headlights look remarkably similar to the chevys so would you be kind enough to provide a link please? I replaced mine with new sealed beams but they are still pants! Hello! The very same units will fit your truck. They are a pretty universal fit (basically every rectangular sealed beam unit from every US and Japanese manufacturer). On top of that, the price has reduced since I bought mine. Go to eBay here (other sellers and prices are available): link
You'll also most probably need a power boost/relay harness to run them, but I can't guarantee the spec for your truck. It will be something like this: HarnessThanks a ton! Its always comforting to get someones thumbs up on a product!
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