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I could be interested in the maf clamp. I fitted my spare ported supercharger with smaller pulley, went to fit the crank pulley extension and found out its the wrong size, its for a facelift EVO engine I think. Id imagine ill need a maf clamp when I get a crank pulley. Though I am thinking of getting an Ecumaster DET3, as I can use it to do a MAF to MAP conversion and it will tidy up my boost pipes. I should be able to set a voltage limit on it too to not trigger the fuel cut. Might be able to limit the iat voltage through it too. All comes down to price really, DET3 is 250 and then the hassle of wiring it and trying to figure out how to set it up. I just finished polybushing my rear end and fitting solid steel diff mount bushings, made a massive difference. Bought h&r anti roll bars but have yet to fit them. Trying to get my car driving good, got it tracked and my front passenger caster is still off unfortunately. I hit a kerb drifting a roundabout in it like 3 years ago and it still doesn't drive straight, I thought replacing my control arms would fix it but the wheel is still too far back, really hope I didn't bend the chassis. Cant see a bend in it but I cant see how else my wheel could be pushed back. I cant imagine getting the chassis jigged will be cheap. Yep the best way to go is standalone for max performance. The downside besides cost is you'll possibly loose ABS, Brake Assist and Traction Control, still from what I've heard it's not an issue for everybody. The other downside is rolling road time, I know people who's spent a lot to get the ECU tuned correctly. I won't advertise the Split Second voltage clamp just yet on the Benz forum in case you want, it's far from loads of money anyway. Oh, getting suspension right is key, the difference transforms the car. I avoided using poly bushes just stuck with rubber, suit the driving I do but would opt front lower wishbone poly bushes next time round. I'm guessing the front wishbone pick up points to chassis are bent after you're accident. You don't need to get chassis professionally checked. Just get the car on totally level ground, jacked up with the wheels off. Use a plum line at several points from the chassis to the ground and measure all the distances in all plains. Do check the hub come arm to the top wishbone, if you have a spare one you'll quickly enough know if something is wrong there. There's a possibility the top wishbone bushes are shot or that arm is bent. A bent shock could do it too as it's independent of the spring. |
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Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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Standalone is alot of work, and the factory ecu would have to be kept also for the canbus. A surprising amount of stuff are done in the facelift w202s over canbus such as power windows, sunroof and the bootlatch etc. When I engine swapped my car with a clk ecu none of the windows or sunroof worked.
It,ll be the front wishbone mounting points. I must try with a plumb line, we tried measuring from a few different points at both sides and it seemed to be ok, but 1mm off on the inside could cause the ball joint to be off 10mm.
I changed everything on the passenger side already to try and fix it. New top arm, hub off a breaker, new lower wishbone and standard front shocks. The only thing I can think of is the bolts, the lower arm I bought was Febi Bilstein and it came with new bolts which were different to the original. They didn't have the tapered square under the head instead they had washers with a notch in them. We did try loosening the bolts and prizing on the arm and it did go forwards a small bit but not enough. I might try get another set of factory bolts and see does that fix it.
I probably should have sorted that before I painted it, I'm sure it'll be expensive to jig if it comes to it.
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Eventually I got the propshaft U/J replaced, that's the good news. Upon inspection by the repairer they didn't think the notchy movement in the U/J was enough to cause the drivetrain vibration even though it was obviously worn. Only one way to find out is by fitting shaft and driving. But, I'm going to hold off doing that as I decided while the shaft is out I'd have easy access to replace the gearbox shifter link rod bushes as these have seen better days. So, I'm hoping to have the bushes within a week. Cleaned the shaft of surface rust, treated it and added some go faster gloss black, yeah I was at loose end one day! Fitted a new central bearing and carrier. I also cleaned & greased up the splined yoke (covered by the plastic bellows), and both central alignment bushes at each end.  Highlighted the factory alignment marks (just to be sure the shaft was aligned correctly) and smeared grease around the new U/J for a bit of protection from road grime and rain, probably pointless but it's done now.  Here's two of the three gearbox shifter rods. The large bushes are rubber which attach to the gearbox itself, these had a lot of play in them, while the smaller nylon/plastic bushes that attach to the gear lever assembly were worn but not as bad. There is an option to buy brass or delrin aftermarket bushes which I may get at a later date.  I haven't had a vacuum brake bleeder for yonks, used just a hose and jar with somebody else pumping the pedal. Came across this Chinese vacuum bleeder kit locally, reckoned for the modest price I'd give it a go. It's rubbish! Avoid if you see similar.  |
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Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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Apr 11, 2024 21:39:11 GMT
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How about this? I've had not one but two wins in the one day! Fitted the new gear linkage bushes and refitted the propshaft. The gear shift has improved beyond my expectations and the driveline vibration is gone. Think I'll buy a lottery ticket!  Car more or less ready to hit road on May 1. Looking forward to clocking some cross county miles, I'll be doing a few 350-400 mile trips. |
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Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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Car back on axle stands but I'm happy to report just for a diff oil change, new alternator and drive belt. The original alternator bearings were worn and became even more noticeable since I replaced the T-chain.   I mentioned previously I was trying to find the correct resistor for the IAT signal to the ECU. I may have cracked it, a 1.2k 0.5w seems to have done the trick, which means no timing pull @ the preprogrammed IAT of 35C which is 3.5 degrees and equates to a loss of 20-25 bhp. So, with a bit of luck I'm hoping now it's just a matter of getting on and driving the car over the summer. If I don't update it will be a matter of no news is good news! |
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Last Edit: Jun 9, 2024 20:44:34 GMT by Woofwoof
Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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