|
|
|
we’ve had a couple of dry days so this afternoon I went and finished off the dwarf wall, this is the side the garage doors fit, for the return I made a pillar and added brick ties to the pillars and corner for extra strength      I’ve gone with having the door opening of 3M, at this point I’m not sure whether to have two opening barn doors or to have a sliding (concertina) type door(s), this will be one of the last things I’ll be fitting so still have time to think which to go for, any opinions or suggestions on garage doors? this didn’t take long, I think it took longer mixing the sand & cement    I’m very pleased with how square (defiantly more luck than judgement) I managed to get the dwarf wall  corner to corner using the digital laser measure I was only 1mm out using these end stops to get a precise reading   not one for boasting, but I’d call this spot on     before it got too dark, with the laser level, I worked out the measurements for the firring,    I’ll be taking these measurements to T&P on Monday afternoon
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Nov 29, 2020 21:02:51 GMT |
what laser have you used been locking to get one but so many choices
|
|
1978 mk2 escort mexico
|
|
|
|
Nov 30, 2020 19:55:01 GMT |
I bought mine off eBay for £56 a couple of months back, it has 4 points of laser (16 lines),  but I see he now sells them for £60 www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Remote16-Line-4D-360-Rotary-Green-Laser-Level-Self-Leveling-Cross-Measure-Tool/373195686347?hash=item56e43241cb:g:nyUAAOSwDiZfqkVc&var=642314997656for me it’s paid for itself (in time taken and the accuracy & ease of use) when I first had the concrete pad laid I requested the slope for rainwater run-off, now I need it corrected could of done it the hard way with a spirit level, but made my life so much easier. was quicker and easier to getting the right measurements for squaring the brick corners and the measurements for the firings to level off the wall, I am booked to be at T&P tomorrow afternoon with my measurements and they will be cutting my firtings (fingers crossed, this has already been put back a week) with all this rain going on I’m tempted to buy a 8M x 8M tarpaulin and put this up so I can get on with building the garage irrespective if it’s raining or not, been told it’s going to be another long week of rain
|
|
Last Edit: Nov 30, 2020 19:55:58 GMT by mollydog1
|
|
|
|
Nov 30, 2020 20:25:09 GMT |
You want one of these, this was going up at my house, it's wrapped now so we can work in all weathers.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
I hate to think of the cost of that scaffolding! Doesn't half make life easier for working under though.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
dodgeroverI’m impressed, my goodness I should think this must have cost as much as my total budget for my garage/workshop I turned up at Travis & Perkins this afternoon and with a few of my diagrams and images, I explained my exact measurements to the guy doing the firings I think having images/diagrams was a great help to him, as he got a better idea of what I needed, this also helped me as he managed to eliminate the need for the 50mm x 100mm timber and used some of the off cuts one of the few diagrams to show him my measurements for the firrings, showing the gradient of the firring, for each side  I ended up with only needing 6x 100mm x 100mm x 3M  the guy in action    some of the firrings  the machine doing the cutting   marking the timber with chalk line        for the garage door frame, I’ve bought 2x 100mm x 200mm x 2.4M sleeper posts/joists  I’ll be cutting a 45mm x 45mm channel (with a router) from top to bottom. and slide one end of the dung board in to this 45mm channel, hopefully it gives the door jamb some strength to be able to hang the doors on  3D view of this  they said I should be getting them tomorrow afternoon but Thursday the latest, now just hoping no rain for a couple of days for tying in the beam above the garage doors my plan is have the joint something like this  with a wood dowel through the joint like this  at the moment they don’t have any 100mm x 100mm or larger in stock, but as I won’t be needing this for some time, I’ll buy this at a later date
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Apologies in advance for the thread hijack The tin lid was a considerable expense but they did me a really good deal (more than I've ever spent on a vehicle in my life and it was enough to have bought me a cracking V8 van!) but there's no other way of doing it without leaving the house open to the elements. Currently looks like this from the back Today About 3 weeks ago I'm doing a loft conversion and repitching a mainly new roof with 3 dormer windows to cover a 3m wide extension out the back Not to bad considering I've not done first fix carpentry for a few years and have been mainly on my own. Aren't chalk lines great! With your attention to detail yours will come together really well, once you start going up it will be done in no time!
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
dodgeroverno issues ever about being off topic of thread hijack, I think its a good way of picking up many tips and information, so please feel free to post anything you like  using a chalk line must be about the best way of marking a straight line I will take back saying your scaffolding wold cost as much as my garage build, now seeing these other images I would say maybe cost as much 5X my garage  my timber firrings from Travis & Perkins arrived this afternoon , but could I do any work? nope
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Apparently we have snow forecast tomorrow, I'm hoping it adds to the insulation value of the tin lid....
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
yep, a dab of sleet first thing in the morning followed with a drop of snow early yesterday morning, was dam cold taking our dogs out for their first walk of the morning, thats for sure
|
|
Last Edit: Dec 5, 2020 14:06:53 GMT by mollydog1
|
|
|
|
|
|
nothing much happened this weekend, as I mentioned, my timber firrings arrived on Thursday, today I thought was as good a day I am likely to get, so I got the firings coated with wood preservative along the cut’s being a bit of a cold day I only gave them one coat for today, I’ll be give them a further two coats on two separated days to give the timber time to soak in the preservative between coatings   putting them back together before wrapping them with a tarpaulin  and showing the two 100mm x 200mm x 2.4M logs to be used as door frame 
|
|
|
|
melle
South West
It'll come out in the wash.
Posts: 1,533
|
|
|
Progress is progress! I would be tempted to paint the bottom sides with red lead and/ or use dpc between the bricks and the wood.
|
|
www.saabv4.com'70 Saab 96 V4 "The Devil's Own V4" '77 Saab 95 V4 van conversion project '88 Saab 900i 8V
|
|
|
blackpopracing
@blackpopracing
|
|
Paint the bottoms and outside sides with bitumen (just paint a small return on the inside edge with bitumen so wood can still breath. +1 for the dpc as well.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
thank you both (mello & blackpopracing) for this advice, I’ll now be looking in to both these red lead and bitumen paints in the next day or so and use one or the other, I see they aren’t that expensive for a 5lt can my initial plan for where the dwarf wall and timber firring make contact is as shown in the image below, not to scale I had planed to use EPDM, but read on Screwfix website that the Bostik Bituminous Black Paint they sell “We would not recommend its use with EPDM since the bond between the substrate and the paint will be poor” so maybe if I go with the Bituminous paint, just use it along the cut edge (base) and not on the outside facing of the sole plate (firring)
|
|
Last Edit: Dec 8, 2020 6:58:02 GMT by mollydog1
|
|