Building my timber garage/workshop

I bought mine off eBay for £56 a couple of months back, it has 4 points of laser (16 lines),



but I see he now sells them for £60



www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Remote16-Line-4D-360-Rotary-Green-Laser-Level-Self-Leveling-Cross-Measure-Tool/373195686347?hash=item56e43241cb:g:nyUAAOSwDiZfqkVc&var=642314997656

for me it’s paid for itself (in time taken and the accuracy & ease of use) when I first had the concrete pad laid I requested the slope for rainwater run-off, now I need it corrected

could of done it the hard way with a spirit level, but made my life so much easier. was quicker and easier to getting the right measurements for squaring the brick corners and the measurements for the firings to level off the wall,

I am booked to be at T&P tomorrow afternoon with my measurements and they will be cutting my firtings (fingers crossed, this has already been put back a week)

with all this rain going on I’m tempted to buy a 8M x 8M tarpaulin and put this up so I can get on with building the garage irrespective if it’s raining or not, been told it’s going to be another long week of rain

I hate to think of the cost of that scaffolding! Doesn't half make life easier for working under though.

Apologies in advance for the thread hijack

The tin lid was a considerable expense but they did me a really good deal (more than I've ever spent on a vehicle in my life and it was enough to have bought me a cracking V8 van!) but there's no other way of doing it without leaving the house open to the elements.

Currently looks like this from the back
Today



About 3 weeks ago


I'm doing a loft conversion and repitching a mainly new roof with 3 dormer windows to cover a 3m wide extension out the back
Not to bad considering I've not done first fix carpentry for a few years and have been mainly on my own.


Aren't chalk lines great! With your attention to detail yours will come together really well, once you start going up it will be done in no time!

Apparently we have snow forecast tomorrow, I'm hoping it adds to the insulation value of the tin lid....

nothing much happened this weekend, as I mentioned, my timber firrings arrived on Thursday, today I thought was as good a day I am likely to get, so I got the firings coated with wood preservative along the cut’s

being a bit of a cold day I only gave them one coat for today, I’ll be give them a further two coats on two separated days to give the timber time to soak in the preservative between coatings





putting them back together before wrapping them with a tarpaulin





and showing the two 100mm x 200mm x 2.4M logs to be used as door frame

Paint the bottoms and outside sides with bitumen (just paint a small return on the inside edge with bitumen so wood can still breath.
+1 for the dpc as well.

I’ve not done much on the preparation on the dwarf wall, the weather has had a bit to do with it











Even had a feathered friend pop over to inspect



to be honest, I’ve had a bit of a bad back for a few weeks now, maybe as far back as the beginning of January, I tend to notice it a lot after our dog walk,

So with the freezing January mornings or raining (snowing) days I’ve not had the inclination to get out and laying my sole plates, I’m hoping I might get a few good days soon

to hold down the sole plates & brickwork to the concrete pad, I couldn’t find long enough (at reasonable cost) through bolts/expansion bolts, so I’ve bought enough threaded rods to use as anchor bolts with enough lock nuts & washers and resin







and some resin





Listing to my engineering friend, the anchor bolts will be spaced out at one at 50CM from each end and one in the middle per 3M length of sole plate (6 per side, and 3 on each side of the door)

(white dots in the image)


approx one 50CM from each end and one in the middle of each 3M length sole plate/ferring

(not to scale)


For the 12mm diameter threaded rods I would of thought a hole with maybe 16mm or 20mm diameter was needed, but I’ve been informed direct from the resin manufacturer Fischer, that for a 12mm diameter threaded rod (what I have) a hole with a diameter of 14mm is all I need for this job



(In the image above I missed out showing the DPC and sand & cement course between the brickwork and the sole plate)

we’ve all seen image of wind damage,





maybe if we did get a very strong storm what I’m doing might not make much of a difference, or it might be the difference between a damaged garage or a garage blown all over my garden

I plan not to use as few screws and nails as I can get away with on the wall’s above the first course of walling, having the end notching keep the garage together, the exception would be the roof and doors

for the roof I will wait till I get to roof hight before deciding what materials to use and how to support it

once it’s up then I would be able to gauge if I need extra support at the corners and in the middle, this is all a case of playing it by ear and any advice I get,

if I do need extra support my plan is to have 100mm x 100mm timber in the corners fixed to the walls with wooden dowels



used something like this, maybe a dowel every second or third row



and the use of L brackets (approx) everyone.5M inside the garage to anchor the first course/row of the dung board to the concrete pad

(Not to scale)


I can’t wait for the better weather to get here

thank you for this info Kevins, gives me more confidence I made the right choice

Just remember to either hoover the dust out the fixing holes or blow them out with compressed air. It's good stuff that resin, as are concrete bolts but you would struggle with length of them.