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Still tinkering away with this thing. Ive sent loads of parts off to be blasted and then powder coated in satin black, so it has been most satisfying bolting new looking parts back into the car. Ive also sourced a brand spanking new header/expansion tank. Everything is being mounted with shiny stainless fasteners and loads of copper slip so it shouldnt all corrode together. Fingers crossed.    I had originally intended to fit the original Rover 800 inlet, which just says "Injection" on the top. However ive now picked up a "TURBO" inlet from a 220 turbo, so ive fitted that. It went off to be blasted and then when i got it back i etch primered it, satin black, then sanded through the paint to expose the bare alloy. Looks so much better. Before  Painted black  Fitted  Then i painted up the original Rover engine steady links. I'm using Vibra Tech engine mounts, and according to their website you can do away with these original links as the new tough ones are more than up to the job. However there is a large engine mount fixture on the inner wing and it just looks a bit funny with nothing fitted to it, so i have fitted the links and an alloy adapter too.   Then i turned my attention to the turbo actuator. I had an original from the T25, with an adjustable rod, however the hole in the end of the rod eyelet was a bit too big for the T28. The original T28 actuator is non adjustable and massive and with a big stupid bracket. So i rang Grant at GB enterprises and he said use the Forge aftermarket one for the Nissan 200sx, so thats what i did.  I had to rotate the compressor housing relative to the turbo core, so that the 200sx turbo would actually with the compressor outlet pointing in the right direction. The mountings for the actuator are on the front of the compressor housing, so basically it would no longer bolt up and work. So i had to make a new bracket. Space is extremely tight, to get the actuator in a position so it didnt hit the block or turbo and yet the actuator rod would still have a straight action on the wastegate arm. Some rather nifty cardboard engineering followed.  Some fabrication  Some additional braces and then paint    Turbo in and mounted and downpipe attached. It is all an extremely tight fit. You cant bolt the downpipe to the turbo with the turbo on the manifold. You actually have to demount the turbo first, bolt it to teh downpipe and then thread the whole lot into teh engine bay. A real pain, but it works.    And a video |
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LAndy
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,061
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Aug 10, 2020 16:31:33 GMT
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Really enjoying this build. The effort that goes into everything is amazing! Like the bracket for the actuator, most people would have just left it as you'd bent it but the addition of the braces shows genuine consideration for the build!.
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Previous retros: 92 AX GTi 92 Scirocco Scala 94 80 sport 87 Golf Cab GTi Current retro: 1965 Clark Cortez YouTube Website Instagram |
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village
Part of things
Always carries a toolbox. Because Volkswagen.......
Posts: 567
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Aug 12, 2020 16:30:31 GMT
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Brackets! Just like an episode in Binky. There can be no higher praise!
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"The White Van is strong with this one...."
Chris "Chesney" Allen 1976-2005 RIP
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Aug 16, 2020 21:59:07 GMT
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Middle of this week i took two pairs of old driveshafts and two new outer end CV joints and swapped them all around until i had the best combination and with the correct ABS rings for my car. Was a bit of a fiddle, especially fitting the speacial metal clips to hold teh gaiters in place. Gave them a coat of enamel black. Two pairs. One pair from an old 220, the other i think from an MG ZR diesel.  New CV joint   Painted and ready to fit  Fitted my shiny brand new original headlights. These are the posh ones with the electric motors for headlight level adjustment woooooooo.   Thats when i made a bit of a bad discovery. The leading edge of the offside front wing was bent Looked like it was dropped but it didnt show until the headlight was fitted.   It has quite a distinctive kink in it, but you cant see it unless the headlight is pressed against it. I thought id have a go at fixing this and although i don't have a photo, ive pretty much massaged it into the correct place just from manipulation by hand and a few taps with a light hammer and a cloth. Started mocking up the front with the radiator. Alloy rad is same size as standard 220 turbo. The original intercooler would have sat in the frame just above it. However i will be using that void to take the intercooler pipe work through to a larger front mount intercooler.   Ages a go i bought an intercooler and pipe work off an MG ZR. But it has an extremely long pipe work arrangement, and if i wanted to fit this i would have to hack up my bumper, which i don't want to do.   So instead i got on ebay and trawled through 100's of listings until i found an intercooler that i think will fit inside the front bumper, require minimal pipe work length, so less lag and generally neater. The best option looked to be one for a new Toyota GT86, as it is a top feed type rather than end to end. I made a cardboard template just to check that it will work. Looks promising. Ill meed to find some even thinner cooling fans though, or invent some kind of duct or something. No room on the engine bay side to mount a fan there.   |
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Aug 16, 2020 23:35:02 GMT
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This car will be better than new when done. Great job!
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Aug 16, 2020 23:36:00 GMT
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By the way, do you still have the diesel you were working on? Haven't seen an update for a long time. I do like that one too.
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By the way, do you still have the diesel you were working on? Haven't seen an update for a long time. I do like that one too. Yes i do. Its at the office car park, so during lockdown our office has been closed and i havent touched it. I was also extremely busy with Dotty, which is now at the body shop being painted. When Dotty is done and the bubble is running ill get back to work on the diesel. Here is a link to the first Dotty Video. There are lots of them!!! |
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Aug 19, 2020 19:01:57 GMT
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Aug 19, 2020 21:04:51 GMT
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James - MC08 on this Martrim card is about right for the Rover range of this era - don't forget that what you have will have faded lighter over the years - Chris  |
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Last Edit: Aug 19, 2020 21:05:31 GMT by Deleted
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Aug 19, 2020 21:39:24 GMT
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James - MC08 on this Martrim card is about right for the Rover range of this era - don't forget that what you have will have faded lighter over the years - Chris Thanks for that! I just have been using the photos on the website. They don’t show the mc0 number, just the verbal description. I’ve ordered two more sample but I don’t know if either is mc08? I’ll wait and sei guess. |
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Dec 27, 2020 11:20:14 GMT
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Well i finally got around to tackling the headlining. Most of my motivation came from wanting the old headliner board out of my way. Its big, bulky and easy to bend and damage.  I ordered 6 fabric samples from Martrim and eventually settled on the oatmeal colour. It was real hard trying to match as they all seemed to look different in different lighting conditions.  Then i prepared the board. This involved peeling off the old fabric and then scraping off all the dregs of the old foam and glue with a wire brush. I then hoovered it and gave it a gentle wipe with panel wipe to get the dust off.    Then i set up operation central, a large packing box covered with black plastic that the new fabric was wrapped in.  Also bought 2 cans of the spray adhesive and that was a good idea as i had just a little bit left over.  I'm not going to go into detail here about how i did the glueing, as its all documented in detail in the videos below. But basically great success! So i stuck it back in the car. Very happy with end results.    I also fitted the rear seats. If anyone ever sees or finds or knows of rover 200 seats in this fabric, please let me know, even if you find them several years after i post this! Its called Norse two tone grey and it was only in the early 218is and 200vi models. |
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Dec 27, 2020 14:26:22 GMT
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Brilliant work as usual Jim,
I started following your threads on here first then "found" your various videos on You Tube,
Have to say they are all excellent and I would like to thank you for all the welding tips you give out, mine has certainly improved since trying them,
Looking forward to seeing future updates,
Nigel
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BMW E39 525i Sport
BMW E46 320d Sport Touring (now sold on.)
BMW E30 325 Touring (now sold on.)
BMW E30 320 Cabriolet (Project car - currently for sale.)
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Dec 27, 2020 16:41:12 GMT
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Brilliant work as usual Jim, I started following your threads on here first then "found" your various videos on You Tube, Have to say they are all excellent and I would like to thank you for all the welding tips you give out, mine has certainly improved since trying them, Looking forward to seeing future updates, Nigel Cheers Nigel, thanks very much! |
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Dec 29, 2020 19:48:56 GMT
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Finally sorted my drain line from the turbo to the sump. This should have been a five minute job, where i simply bolt in the original stainless steel corrugated pipe. However, annoyingly, the pipe wouldnt fit my new turbo. The car originally had a t25 turbo. Ive fitted the larger t28. T28 turbos come in several different versions. Mine is annoying and has a different size spacing of the threads for the drain port than the standard t25 and most t28's. I had tried to open up the bolt holes in the flange but that still didnt work. So i ordered a t28 small drain port flange from Italy (weird). Then i cut up the old lower flange and welded a bit of curved pipe onto it. Then linked the two with 18 mm id oil hose, all covered by a heat reflective sock. I also had to trim a spot welded flange off the front engine mount so it wouldnt rub or chaffe on the hose, and then i welded it back together again. All installed now and fits great. What a ball ache. Little type drain flange on left, larger original on the right.  All the parts laid out ready  Assembled  Fitted  Some of this is covered in this video. The final install will be in video part 23. |
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Had a couple of hours so i played around with the radiator and intercooling mountings again. The car originally would have two fans ahead of the radiator and a little intercooler above the radiator. I'm fitting the larger intercooler ahead of the radiator and there is no room for the fans in front, so I'm squeezing them in between the rad and the engine. Not easy as there is a coolant pipe and even worse is the turbo and down pipe. SO what ive done is actually move the radiator very slightly forward and then there is just enough room to get 2 9" pull fans in there. Ill have to make a little alloy heat shield by the turbo and downpipe or maybe buy a heat jacket for it, but slowly I'm winning.   In other news i bough the world coolest van. Sadly it doesn't have a v8 in it.... yet!  |
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robscarlton
Kinda New
Wanted Vauxhall carlton/senator LCD dash. Any help appreciated, thanks.
Posts: 2
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Feb 15, 2021 11:57:52 GMT
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Nice work! Ive been watching this on youtube lately. The one i really cant wait to watch is the senator and what you decide to do with it! I’ve sold it already. I only posted that vid so he could see what he was in for. I titled it as Test, rather than senator 1, I should take it down really but fun watching the comments! Hi, I spoke to you on youtube about senator dash that you may have spare. Do you have one for sale at all? I need one for my carlton, but believe the senator dash will fit. Regards, Rob. |
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Drizz
Part of things
Posts: 337
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Well done chap! Started following you on YouTube when i was building my T16 400. Drizz Developments on YouTube if you want to have a nose. Love the LDV too. Had me looking on ebay but thankfully nothing there to buy LOL
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Last Edit: Feb 16, 2021 9:04:59 GMT by Drizz
MGF VVC 160
MG Midget
Metro Turbo
200 BRM
Range Rover Classic TD5
Discovery Premium 300TDi
Defender 90
Rover 420 GSi Sport Turbo
Discovery Extreme 300TDi
Range Rover P38
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Small world! I’m a neighbour of the guy you bought the van from!
Love your builds, worked for a Rover dealer in the late 80’s so fond of all the projects. Ive even been converted to the video format for posting 😎
Look forward to seeing lots more updates to come.
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Jan 31, 2022 19:30:08 GMT
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Wow i havent updated this for a while. Been busy with other cars. To recap, i finally worked out how to get the rad fans, intercooler, radiator and all squeezed in behind the front bumper. Then i started buttoning up the main systems like fuel and brakes. All the intercooler alloy pipes have beaded ends and are secured with mikalor type clips rather than jubilee clips.  I made these mole grips so i could crimp a bead in the intercooler pipes. Its a piece of bar welded onto one jaw, and a groove ground in the other jaw. Looks like a grumpy Alien!!!   The fuel tank was in perfect condition. It was repainted in epoxy, as were the mounting straps. I checked that the pump worked and then lifted it all up under the back of the car. While i was doing that i repaired and then repainted the rear brake lines and made sure the handbrakes cables were nice and free. The fuel lines and brake lines run under the car together, supported on plastic clips and little metal bars. Some clips had broken and the straps had rusted so i ordered some new ones. Ive also ordered and fitted a full set of HEL braided flexy brake lines, in a rather fetching shade of blue.    Hard to see what yr looking at here, but basically i had to buy all new tank holder bracket bolt thingys. They fit in slots in the floor pan and the straps bolt up to them. Quite neat really.  |
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Feb 16, 2022 13:21:06 GMT
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Looking good dude! Feels like you're getting there! What's left on the list?
Love the LDV as well. I was looking at them now that there's a lot of building work to be done around the house, but I think I might need to settle for a trailer behind the Jag...
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