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Nov 14, 2019 16:38:57 GMT
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After much rust removal, rust cure, red oxide primer & paint the leaf springs are back on with new bushes. Front suspension & steering rack next, ordering some poly bushes for the same.
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Nov 14, 2019 16:43:22 GMT
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Are those springs fitted correctly?? I think you should have some shackles at the rear end of the springs so they have somewhere to go as they flatten as weight is applied to them or the chassis wont last long.
Middle of the picture right hand side spring shackles.
Nice work on the repaint of the chassis.
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Last Edit: Nov 14, 2019 16:47:09 GMT by peteh1969
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Nov 14, 2019 16:50:54 GMT
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Oops great spot, that's the cold brain for you.
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Nov 14, 2019 19:30:59 GMT
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The bushes are a fight to get out, I melted the inner rubber with a heat gun and then pushed them through (still tough), then cut the steel tube that was left in with a hacksaw blade to release and then knocked out Once cleaned up the new ones went in snugly. Until poly bushes turn up I cannot do much more, parts ready to go back on
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ovimor
North East
...It'll be ME!
Posts: 934
Member is Online
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Are those springs fitted correctly?? I think you should have some shackles at the rear end of the springs so they have somewhere to go as they flatten as weight is applied to them or the chassis wont last long.
..... I have no idea why ... but ... my mind flashed to a post (somewhere out in the wildWeb) about a guy virtually destroying Land Rover shackle bolts because he was unaware they were threaded/screwed INTO the shackle THEN the nut is screwed up after that :/ Good spot OVIMOR
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Knowledge is to know a Tomato is a 'fruit' - Wisdom, on the other hand, is knowing not to put it in a 'fruit salad'!
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Nov 15, 2019 12:18:16 GMT
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What are the chances of the springs even fitting (in terms of length) without the shackle
Better get some euro millions tickets
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reliantreviver
Part of things
"It will be getting fixed up come summer..." (year undefined)
Posts: 412
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Nov 15, 2019 13:21:50 GMT
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The shackles (which can be seen with the painted parts) are quite short and the Reliant springs quite soft, so easily fitted without shackles, but yes, not a good idea!
As an aside the kitten had cast steel shackles whilst the 3 wheelers had alloy. Can't think it's a strength thing, only a weight saving measure for the 3 wheelers which were always tight to the sub 450kg restriction.
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Current: Reliant "750" Super Robin, Scimitar SS1s - 2 x 1300, 1 x 1600, 1 x 1800ti. 76 years off the road between them! Also - Mitsubishi Galant Sport and Hyundai Coupe Gen3
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reliantreviver
Part of things
"It will be getting fixed up come summer..." (year undefined)
Posts: 412
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Nov 15, 2019 13:26:23 GMT
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One for you to consider "while you're in there" 3-wheelers Robin onwards had a rear ARB that the kitten (save for a few very early ones) did not. Easily sourced and fitted. A step closer to being awesome on opposite lock.
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Current: Reliant "750" Super Robin, Scimitar SS1s - 2 x 1300, 1 x 1600, 1 x 1800ti. 76 years off the road between them! Also - Mitsubishi Galant Sport and Hyundai Coupe Gen3
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Nov 15, 2019 17:02:57 GMT
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what rear axle is that I have been toying with the idea of an MG rear axle (midget or bgt) as a limited-slip diff can then be fitted. All in all, it seems the most cost-effective LSD option.
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reliantreviver
Part of things
"It will be getting fixed up come summer..." (year undefined)
Posts: 412
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Nov 15, 2019 20:38:03 GMT
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Just a standard kitten axle, can't advise what else might fit.
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Current: Reliant "750" Super Robin, Scimitar SS1s - 2 x 1300, 1 x 1600, 1 x 1800ti. 76 years off the road between them! Also - Mitsubishi Galant Sport and Hyundai Coupe Gen3
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glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,353
Club RR Member Number: 64
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The Robins were noticeably more ruthless weight/spec wise. The radiators on Robins really weren't big enough, as is clear when you see how much bigger a Kitten one is for the same engine, and lots of other stuff (like optional spare wheel) and much less trim.
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My worst worry about dying is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her it cost...
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Nov 16, 2019 20:07:33 GMT
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Steering rack and anti roll bar (and brackets) cleaned and painted, ordered the front poly bushes so should be back together next weekend
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nbs
Part of things
Posts: 182
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Nov 18, 2019 21:15:54 GMT
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Looking good mate, Your certainly getting on with it
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Nov 22, 2019 16:58:43 GMT
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Despite the weather, now got both rear shackles and springs on with new bushes, at the front steering rack and anti roll bar back on poly bushed For the upper ball joint I have got MGTF Ball Joints and a nut to suit the thread, cut the nut in half, welded it to the suspension arm (which is now also poly bushed) and then the ball joint is screwed in and tightened. As they have a maintenance free 5 year life I have just put a small weld to ensure it stays put, this can be easily ground off to remove when required Still waiting for some bits to turn up and have also ordered some gaz front shocks.
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Nov 22, 2019 16:59:59 GMT
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Nov 22, 2019 18:53:04 GMT
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The MGF and Reliant tapers. Are they the same?
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Nov 22, 2019 22:16:54 GMT
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The MGF and Reliant tapers. Are they the same? Not quite, different overall height, different chamfer, slightly different taper, but when the nut is tightened it seems to align in the right place, lets see when its back together
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If you find they are not quite right the Viva bottom ball joints are readily available and just need a spacer which you can get from the RKR. I don't know if you are a member but they are a great bunch of chaps, very supportive and carry a lot of NOS spares.Well worth joining.
If you are going to use the rear leaf springs it might be worth thinking about anti-tramp bars and a Panhard rod to locate the rear axle. With the increased power of the bike engine the springs will wind up. There will be lateral movement too on cornering which happens even with the standard set-up. All very easy to address at this stage.
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If you find they are not quite right the Viva bottom ball joints are readily available and just need a spacer which you can get from the RKR. I don't know if you are a member but they are a great bunch of chaps, very supportive and carry a lot of NOS spares.Well worth joining. If you are going to use the rear leaf springs it might be worth thinking about anti-tramp bars and a Panhard rod to locate the rear axle. With the increased power of the bike engine the springs will wind up. There will be lateral movement too on cornering which happens even with the standard set-up. All very easy to address at this stage. I've done my application for the Kitten Club (Brian) as I need the Gaz shocks for the front. I have the springs on for positioning the rear axle at the moment (which maybe an MG Midget item so I can convert to LSD). I will then swap the rear shocks for coilovers. All other suggestions welcome, as you say at this point everything is nicely accessible. I am lucky with the front lower ball joints as my two are good and I have already acquired a new old spare. However I do not like the 40 year old must maintain design so these maybe on the list for future swap out.
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Nov 23, 2019 11:50:27 GMT
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I've decided to go for a five link set-up, parallel trailing arms and Panhard rod which is a well tried system and the great thing is that you can alter the spring rate and ride height.
Are you sure the Midget axle is wide enough. It comes up as 44 inches on the Carfolio site compared with 49 for the Kitten? That is a very big difference if the figures are right. The Escort might be a better option. Width is much closer, a wide range of ratios are availableas well as lsd and above all, it is strong. Only thing against is the price. They seem to be changing hands for about £250.
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