Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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1947 ford ranger...Dez
@dez
Club Retro Rides Member 34
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Nov 21, 2020 22:42:36 GMT
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My alooooominum turned up. I bought a bit just big enough for two goes, that way I’ll get it bang on first time and forever have an offcut kicking round the workshop that’s slightly too small to do anything useful with. Better than the other way round though 😂  In preparation id redrawn my cardboard version with higher accuracy rather than just a rough layout, and accounting for the slightly larger than planned secondary gauges. dimensions are actual O.D.s of bezels rather than hole sizes to give a better visual.  Measurements transferred over-  I actually has the right size hole cutter for the secondary gauges so they were easy, the main hole needed to be 85mm and I only had 83, so the last bit had to be opened up by hand with a sanding wheel in the die grinder.  Then the warning light holes were laid out and drilled too.  It was starting to look a bit rough by this point, but peel off the protective plastic and give it a quick wipe down and it’s all looking rather good-  I then wiped it over with some thinners and lacquered it so it should stay shiny. Then time to build it up. It’s difficult to get the warning lights to stay oriented right whilst tightening the lock nuts, I need to go back and tweak a couple.  Then there was the issue of the bezel on the speedo being a fraction to large to fit in the original gauge frame.  A little tickle with the sanding barrel in the die grinder and that was sorted, so it sits down against the panel properly now.   Then it was time to try it for size. You can see here where I marked up how much I’d have to cut the dash for the ranger gauges to fit, and why I decided against it.   A bit of thinners and the pen marks are gone.  I’m still waiting on a chrome push button for the speedo programming to go in the last hole. It came with a black place one but that looked off against the rest. Overall I think it’s come out fairly understated. I’ve still got to paint the original bezel but that’s it really. I decided against engine turning it for the minute, I don’t think it really needs it. It’s cost about £130-140 to do, but compared to off the shelf kits they do which are in the $400-600 price bracket, depending on which you go for, plus shipping and duties, it makes it seem pretty bargainous, and definately worth the money over not cutting the dash. |
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Paul Y
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,951
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Nov 22, 2020 11:28:45 GMT
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Very smart. The ranger dash would have looked pants. P.  |
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Nov 22, 2020 11:36:41 GMT
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Nicely neat and compact.
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glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,357
Club RR Member Number: 64
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1947 ford ranger...glenanderson
@glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member 64
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Nov 22, 2020 11:42:15 GMT
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Yes, a good blend of modern and retro. Doesn't look out of place at all.
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My worst worry about dying is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her it cost...
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Nov 22, 2020 12:18:43 GMT
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Yes, a good blend of modern and retro. Doesn't look out of place at all. Agreed & very neat! |
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Nov 22, 2020 12:34:30 GMT
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Perfect - looks like it's always been there, fits in a treat!
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1968 Mini MkII, 1968 VW T1, 1967 VW T1, 1974 VW T1, 1974 VW T1 1303, 1975 Mini 1000 auto, 1979 Chevette, 1981 Cortina, 1978 Mini 1000 1981 Mini City, 1981 Mini van, 1974 Mini Clubman, 1982 Metro City, 1987 Escort, 1989 Lancia Y10, 1989 Cavalier, 1990 Sierra, 1990 Renault 19, 1993 Nova, 1990 Citroen BX, 1994 Ford Scorpio, 1990 Renault Clio, 2004 Citroen C3, 2006 Citroen C2, 2004 Citroen C4, 2013 Citroen DS5. 2017 DS3 130 Plenty of other scrappers!
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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1947 ford ranger...Dez
@dez
Club Retro Rides Member 34
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Nov 24, 2020 12:20:48 GMT
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Cheers everyone.
I know I’m being overly picky, but it’s more or less my job 😆
So I expect only the best on my own stuff. I think it’s about 90% there. I went back and took the rubber seals off between the bezels and facia so the gauges don’t stick out as much and it looks better. I just need to do something with the outer frame then I’ll be happy I think (can’t decide on colour, was a cream colour originally I think, but patina’d).
I still can’t get the green needles out of my head though 🙄
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braaap
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,750
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Nov 24, 2020 15:24:50 GMT
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My alooooominum turned up. I bought a bit just big enough for two goes, that way I’ll get it bang on first time and forever have an offcut kicking round the workshop that’s slightly too small to do anything useful with. ... I actually has the right size hole cutter for the secondary gauges so they were easy, the main hole needed to be 85mm and I only had 83, so the last bit had to be opened up by hand with a sanding wheel in the die grinder. Perhaps that is the reason why god invented the laser cutter and companies that offer to do that job for you.  Nice result nonetheless! |
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Last Edit: Nov 24, 2020 15:25:28 GMT by braaap
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glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,357
Club RR Member Number: 64
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1947 ford ranger...glenanderson
@glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member 64
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Nov 24, 2020 16:23:51 GMT
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I have a very good mate that does laser and waterjet cutting for a living. Even though he’d likely do the job for nothing for me, if I only want one thing cut then by the time I’ve organised a drawing for him it’s easier to just lay it out on the bench and cut it myself. Obviously, if I had a hundred to do it’s going to be different. 🤣🤣
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My worst worry about dying is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her it cost...
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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1947 ford ranger...Dez
@dez
Club Retro Rides Member 34
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Nov 24, 2020 16:57:39 GMT
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I have a very good mate that does laser and waterjet cutting for a living. Even though he’d likely do the job for nothing for me, if I only want one thing cut then by the time I’ve organised a drawing for him it’s easier to just lay it out on the bench and cut it myself. Obviously, if I had a hundred to do it’s going to be different. 🤣🤣 Exactly it. I have a very good lazercutter who I use for a fair bit of stuff, but only if I’m making more than two of something! |
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Nov 24, 2020 18:13:25 GMT
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Verra noice!
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Nov 24, 2020 20:32:37 GMT
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Cheers everyone. I know I’m being overly picky, but it’s more or less my job 😆 So I expect only the best on my own stuff. I think it’s about 90% there. I went back and took the rubber seals off between the bezels and facia so the gauges don’t stick out as much and it looks better. I just need to do something with the outer frame then I’ll be happy I think (can’t decide on colour, was a cream colour originally I think, but patina’d). I still can’t get the green needles out of my head though 🙄 Looking good I can't help but think that white or off white / cream coloured pointers would be more suited than the current red / orange versions. Your truck your choice. |
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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1947 ford ranger...Dez
@dez
Club Retro Rides Member 34
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Nov 24, 2020 21:13:16 GMT
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The original gauge panel is actually pretty garish when new.  Over the years most of the red disappears, the gold dulls down and the cream wears off. Mine was somewhere like this by the time I got it, but a bit cleaner.  1/2 tons tended to have a chrome surround, which would be nice. In the absence of one of those and not really wanting to have to fake up the patia on it once repainted, I think I’ll go for a wire wool polish and some clear lacquer.  The green and grey colourings of the ranger ones actually suited the colour scheme well. I’m not sure I can get the new gauges apart to make any changes though. The secondary gauges maybe as they’re fairly traditional construction with bent over tabs on the bezel, but the speedo is plastic bodied so I think will be glued together.  |
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Last Edit: Nov 24, 2020 21:17:37 GMT by Dez
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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1947 ford ranger...Dez
@dez
Club Retro Rides Member 34
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Nov 25, 2020 19:49:01 GMT
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Other minor developments. I cleaned up the ‘new’ not new master cylinder, couldn’t get it clean enough as it has some surface discolouration, so popped the reservoir off and painted it.  It’s now been fitted, and a blanking plug I bought put in the extra port.  I also did similar to the ‘new’ not new clutch master cylinder, which you’ll see now has its own integral reservoir rather than tee-ing off the brake one. It’s cast Iron and originally painted black so I cleaned it up and gave it a fresh coat before fitting.  Just waiting on some triple brake pipe clips to turn up to attach the lines to the firewall, then I can finish both brake and clutch plumbing before the motor goes back in. |
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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1947 ford ranger...Dez
@dez
Club Retro Rides Member 34
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Recommended product time. I was looking for triple brake line clips as I need to run the clutch, rear brake and pass. front brake lines across the firewall. I actually struggled to find some, but then found this eBay seller doing them-  I though they were a bit pricey at £1.60 each (singles/doubles are like 50p). But went for them as I couldn’t find any others.  I was also guessing slightly at how they worked from the pics, but I guessed correctly. This is what they looked like when they turned up.  I though it looked like the round but pushed through the top hat bit, expanding it to hold it in, which is correct. You just drill a 6mm hole, wiggle it in up to the flat bit (they’re a tight fit) then give it a sharp tap with a rubber mallet and it pops through and locks em in place.  Dead neat once fitted, and a real problem solver. |
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Looks similar to old Toyota (and probably other) spark plug lead retainers.
Just need a metal option for ye olde look!
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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1947 ford ranger...Dez
@dez
Club Retro Rides Member 34
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This has been ‘resting’ for a while, as I’ve been so flat out busy I’ve not had any time on it. Sitting outside has helped the paintwork to mature no end though, and now I’ve got a few other things out the way I’m back round onto it. Well more specifically, George is back round onto it and it’s in his for the paintjob be given a last fettle and then be clear coated.  This is because his truck is in mine for a rewire.  The only significant thing I’ve achieved on this in the last couple of months is that I’ve replaced this-  With this-  I had to wait a while for it to come back into stock. It was £90 delivered which didn’t think was too bad for a combined pickup/sender unit. The old one still works fine but with the flakey rust it’s obviously on borrowed time, and with its location under the bed now was the time to replace it. I was surprised to find it was a genuine part I’d bought when it turned up-  Just the small issue that every single bolt sheared getting the old off off to sort, then I can repaint the tank and it can go back in.  |
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75swb
Beta Tester
Posts: 1,052
Club RR Member Number: 181
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1947 ford ranger...75swb
@75swb
Club Retro Rides Member 181
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Love your work Dez! This type of thing is definitely a 'one day' project for me! |
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Last Edit: Mar 4, 2021 1:22:11 GMT by 75swb
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At least you've got some stud left to weld to. Better air the tank out!
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