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Oct 18, 2020 12:05:09 GMT
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All good info thanks. I’ve got numerous spare plugs around the steering column, A-pillars both sides near the door hinges, and around the fusebox in the dash. Also some that look like they once went up into the top cubby area but have been disconnected and poked back down, including one pretty big one that’s like an ECU connector. I vaguely remember from working on another a while back the central locking control box is red and mounted on the firewall up the back of the fusebox area. I need to check that out next. It seems like mine was wired for a tipper from the factory, it had a sticker on the seat box saying the 150amp tipper fuse is under the bonnet. It’s also got another big fuse under the seat and factory twin battery wiring. When you say digital gauges, do you mean the trip meter/odometer is an LCD screen? Mine has that but wasn’t sure if they’d be changed when it had a new engine as it’s obviously been apart as there’s screws missing etc. There is a difference between the early clocks and the late clocks. As far as the big plug it sounds like the tipper controller plug. Mine had an extra fues box mounted on a bracket next to the Standard fues boxes. It has a battery wire that runs directly to the batterys with a large fuse holder. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/313131959560
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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Oct 18, 2020 12:11:29 GMT
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I’ll have to have a look, I’m not sure what the ‘standard’ van setup is in regards fuses etc other than there being one box under the bonnet and one in the dash. As you say there’s not a lot of information out there only other people’s experiences to go off.
I’ve got the bottom style gauges. so the digital ones, so I guess they have been changed.
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Oct 27, 2020 20:15:12 GMT
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Hi everyone, been a bit quiet but i have been making some progress. Nothing more done on the aircon as I'm waiting for payday so i can order a new aircon pump. On other news i finally got around to installing my 12v on-board air compressor system. I have mounted the tank on the side of the chassis under the bed of the truck. Fitted the compressor pump inside the right hand locker. Its been a bit of a mission as the fittings are all NPT and the local pipe place only stock BSP fittings, they ordered me a new longer main pipe and 2 adaptors. I had a search on ebay and managed to find the other fittings i wanted. I have run all the wiring and paperwork and mounted an outlet. Got a issue with the pressure switch. Its ment to cut of at 200psi and come back on at 150psi. The gauge got to 210psi and it didn't cut of. Turned the system of, need to look at what is going on maybe how i have wired it up or a dodgy pressure switch.
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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Oct 27, 2020 20:28:11 GMT
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10psi isn’t a huge variance in either gauge or switch. I’d run it a bit higher before i wrote it off, 225 or so.
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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Oct 27, 2020 20:37:31 GMT
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As for the relay- Terminal 30 always goes to battery feed, ideally fused at a rating suitable for the compressor (Proably about 40A) 85 will be earthed 86 will come from the pressure switch. The other side of the pressure switch will go to a 12v feed, usually ign. controlled but maybe not in your case. 87 goes to the red wire on the compressor.
That’s it really.
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As for the relay- Terminal 30 always goes to battery feed, ideally fused at a rating suitable for the compressor (Proably about 40A) 85 will be earthed 86 will come from the pressure switch. The other side of the pressure switch will go to a 12v feed, usually ign. controlled but maybe not in your case. 87 goes to the red wire on the compressor. That’s it really. Yeah i think thats how i connected it, will double check, i have ordered another pressure switch just incase. This is the diagram i used
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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yeah that diagrams right, so if you’ve followed it it might be the switch. But it could also just be an inaccurate gauge. You should also have one of these on one of the spare ports on the tank if you haven’t already, set about 20psi higher than the switch. that way you can just let it run til it vents to see if it is the switch. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/173903759360
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Right well i have been collecting bits and bobs for the truck but not had any free time.
I now have a new pressure switch for the compressors tank, A check valve as i over looked that as it was in the original pipe, My aircon pump.
So hopefully by the end of the week my aircon system will be connected and complete. (Just need new aux belt)
My 12v on-board air compressor system will be complete and working as it should do.
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Well i managed to grab 10 minutes this evening after work, i changed over my compressor pressure switch and fitted the check valve( 1 way valve).
Fired up the truck and waited and waited, the guage hit 200 psi, still going, 210 psi still going then nearly 220psi and silence.
Has it worked, has it gone bang. Lol, plugged a air blower in and let some air out and suddenly the compressor kicked back in. Wow what a relief it seems to be working.
Hopefully the new Viair guage will be a big more accurate and let me know exactly what the system is making. See how much air is in the tank in the morning, hopefully i haven't got aby leaks.
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adi
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,426
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I feel bad that I recently binned a fiesta AC compressor that probably would have done the job. I couldn't give it away!
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Nov 10, 2020 19:40:50 GMT
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Well when I left for work this morning the compressor guage was still showing about 180 psi so seems to be all good. I stayed back after work this evening and managed to fit my new aircon pump and the new aircon pipes, went fairly smooth. I needed to change the aux belt as the aircon belt is longer. Fitted the belt, fired up the truck and rattle rattle bang, the new belt had been spat off. Tried again and it stayed in place. I run the new sub loom down to the pump and noticed the pressure switch has a different type of plug. . Well connected the other plugs and that was end of play. So now need to change the pressure switch before I can connect the aircon machine to the truck and see if there is any leaks. Hopefully it will hold a vacuum and be leak free. I'm not confident on the condenser rad as its a bit beaten up. Hopefully I will find out one evening this week.
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Nov 11, 2020 16:38:42 GMT
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Well when I left for work this morning the compressor guage was still showing about 180 psi so seems to be all good. I stayed back after work this evening and managed to fit my new aircon pump and the new aircon pipes, went fairly smooth. I needed to change the aux belt as the aircon belt is longer. Fitted the belt, fired up the truck and rattle rattle bang, the new belt had been spat off. Tried again and it stayed in place. I run the new sub loom down to the pump and noticed the pressure switch has a different type of plug. . Well connected the other plugs and that was end of play. So now need to change the pressure switch before I can connect the aircon machine to the truck and see if there is any leaks. Hopefully it will hold a vacuum and be leak free. I'm not confident on the condenser rad as its a bit beaten up. Hopefully I will find out one evening this week. I've got to say, I really do admire your determination. You say you're going do something......and you do it....with tidy results. I did have a little chuckle to myself that you're soon going to have lovely icy cold air-con......just in time for winter 😁. Anyway, top work...keep it coming 👍
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Opel Commodore A Coupe Opel Rekord C Coupe Opel Rekord C Saloon Vauxhall Magnum Coupe V8 (Magnumania) Mk1 Scirocco GLS Mk1 Scirocco GLS (early chrome bumper) Corrado G60 Mk1 Cortina 2 door Pre Airflow Mk2 Escort 1300 2 Door VW LT35 Tipper Truck BMW 320D E91 Tourer
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Nov 12, 2020 19:17:10 GMT
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Well this morning when i got to work i looked in the scrap bin and luckily the pipes i needed where right on the top, pulled them out and removed the pressure switch that i needed. Come this evening i swapped the pressure switch and got my boss to run the aircon machine. I didnt hold much hope and i was right, the machine said there was a leak. Oh pants, now to try and get the system filled with nitrogen and oil to see if i can find the leak. I think its the condenser rad as it was a bit beaten up but not 100% sure. Well more when it happens
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Nov 25, 2020 11:03:13 GMT
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Well yesterday our aircon fitter turned up and he tried to fill my system with nitrogen and it was spraying out of the bottom joint of the condenser. That bad we couldn't hear anything else.
Well last night i done a oil change and had a look at the joint, oh curse word, no o-ring, new o-ring fitted.
We to my surprise our aircon fitter turned up this morning, told him i fitted a new o-ring and he said he would try and pressure the system. Few minutes later he came and said it was holding pressure and it should be fine to fill witbmh Gas.
Hopefully tomorrow evening it will be filled and hopefully all working in time for the snow,
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Nov 25, 2020 13:16:52 GMT
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One added benefit of a/c is it also acting as a dehumidifier so using it through winter certainly helps demisting.
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Nov 25, 2020 20:52:19 GMT
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One added benefit of a/c is it also acting as a dehumidifier so using it through winter certainly helps demisting. Couldn't be without it nowadays, where I live the air is so damp! Even this morning without it you'd be there for an age!
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Nov 26, 2020 20:01:54 GMT
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Well the computer said NO. We connected the aircon machine up and run a short vacuum the filled the system, happy days. Wait why it the clutch kicking in and out. Oh must have air trapped in the system, we removed all the gas and tried a longer vacuum and it failed. It now has a leak from somewhere, i think its the value on the low pressure side. I tried to undo the value but its stuck solid. Well back to the drawing board, well nitrogen,
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Dec 20, 2020 18:04:02 GMT
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I've been toying with an idea, Been thinking about getting a shorter prop and cutting the chassis rails to make the wheelbase shorter as its a pain parking. So I would loose the lockers, so got me thinking, I think i would like to make a modern version of this. What do people think, keeping the floor at the same height, the rear axle would move forwards about 18" or so. Anyone who could do a mock it up on photo shop would be handy
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Dec 20, 2020 20:46:17 GMT
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If you were to chop the chassis it would really need a iva or whatever they are called now, on the other hand so many were modded when new for various purposes I'm not sure anyone would ever know.
If you do it keep to one of the standard wheelbases (vans are slightly different to ccabs) and you will be able to use a standard prop exhaust etc.
I've overseen the lengthening of a couple of them and it's not too difficult to cut and re-join them, we made sleeves up to go inside cut the joints staggered then seam welded the joints and plugged the sleeves. You will also need to be carefull to make sure you end up with the x member which supports the prop shaft in the right place and the right spacers under the prop bearings.
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