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Yeah I thought the threads looked pretty poor. You could fit the hub on with loctite - but you may never get it off again! lol. Looks like a new shaft then - hopefully you can find a cheaper axle somewhere. Definatley don't use anything on the taper that might help it stay on, I saw one on another forum that had been loctited on and they had to cut it off in the end.
I suspect the issue with the one on goldnrust car is that someone has used a puller to get the hub off and not protected the end of the shaft and cause it to spread. The only way they could fix it was to cut off the damaged bit and then put the nut on further down and drill it. |
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goldnrust
West Midlands
Minimalist
Posts: 1,887
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That's great crockpot, thank you for digging them out and measuring them. Slide hammer came in the post today, not sure if going for the 10lb size, was overkill or not! haha.  Ether way, the half shaft came out in 3 taps   The inner seal is shot, there's grease from the wheel bearing on the wrong side of it in the axle tube, so I might as well replace both the seals. The wheel bearing looks ok, but the grease around it wasn't great, so for the sake of £20 I should probably replace it. So I shall order those bits and message crockpot in a moment! |
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Oct 10, 2020 15:29:57 GMT
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Yeah I thought the threads looked pretty poor. You could fit the hub on with loctite - but you may never get it off again! lol. Looks like a new shaft then - hopefully you can find a cheaper axle somewhere. Definatley don't use anything on the taper that might help it stay on, I saw one on another forum that had been loctited on and they had to cut it off in the end. I suspect the issue with the one on goldnrust car is that someone has used a puller to get the hub off and not protected the end of the shaft and cause it to spread. The only way they could fix it was to cut off the damaged bit and then put the nut on further down and drill it. I should have clarified - I meant use loctite on the nut only - not the taper. |
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Oct 10, 2020 19:03:00 GMT
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goldnrust Well you made short work of that with the right tools, I really stuggled with the first one I did on my 3.8 and ended up cutting the brake disc off so I could remove the halfshaft and hub complete and then had it put in a 30 ton press having failed with a 15 ton one!
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Oct 10, 2020 19:44:24 GMT
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I wonder if it was really done up tight enough with that damaged thread, my dad used to have a scimitar which has a very similar set up, getting those off involved tightening the puller as much as we dare, pooring boiling water over the hub then striking the centre of the puller, eventually it came off with an almighty bang. To make sure it fits properly it might be worth lapping the hub onto the new shaft.
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goldnrust
West Midlands
Minimalist
Posts: 1,887
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Oct 10, 2020 20:26:01 GMT
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Yes I'm aware how lightly I got off with removing the hub! Removing the hubs on the rear of my Spitfire (similar taper and lock nut design) was considerably more work, despite them being literally half the size.  I agree kevins. I don't think they'd really done the nut up that tight. It was certainly looser than the other side. Interestingly I can't seem to find a torque figure for the nut, and googling only seemed to reveal other people commenting that they couldn't find a torque figure either. I did the other side up to 200ft/lb which seemed like a hub nut kinda torque, and it was about right to make the split pin line up with where it was before. |
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goldnrust
West Midlands
Minimalist
Posts: 1,887
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Oct 15, 2020 18:18:14 GMT
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My replacement half shafts arrived this week, thanks to crockpot, along with the selection of new parts I'd ordered to do the job properly.   Over a couple of evenings I've got it put back together. The press made light work of removing the old inner bearing races from the half shafts, and fitting the new ones.  And the monster slide hammer made even lighter work of removing the inner seal  Inside the axle looks alright once cleaned up, I've already popped the new inner seal in here. I cleaned up the mounting face a bit more after taking this photo, so it was nice and clean and flat for the shims to sit against.  Fitting the new bearing is a little bit of a faff, as you have to fit the bearing dry and shim the bearing cover to set the correct amount of end float. It took me several attempts to get it right. This has been a tool heavy job as I had to break out the dial gauge for this one!  And so with the bearing end float set right, I could get grease it all up and fit the hub and brake back on. New washer, nut and split pin finished the job off.  So we're back on the road, and able to do things like sunset drives to get coffee. I think the Daimler seems to suit autumn better than summer. Summer can be kind of intense, autumn is somehow more relaxed. Heater running gently with the cosy vibe of the leather and wood interior, the world rolling by out of the window peacefully, v8 rumbling away in the background, it's a good way to unwind as the darkness draws in.  |
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Last Edit: Oct 15, 2020 18:19:21 GMT by goldnrust
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Nice work and a great last photo  |
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Proton Jumbuck-deceased :-(
2005 Kia Sorento the parts hauling heap
V8 Humber Hawk
1948 Standard12 pickup SOLD
1953 Pop build (wifey's BIVA build).
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So we're back on the road, and able to do things like sunset drives to get coffee. I think the Daimler seems to suit autumn better than summer. Summer can be kind of intense, autumn is somehow more relaxed. Heater running gently with the cosy vibe of the leather and wood interior, the world rolling by out of the window peacefully, v8 rumbling away in the background, it's a good way to unwind as the darkness draws in. Great work. Welcome to the world of V8, comfort and leather. We do the sunsets, just wish I could find a road that empty! |
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Last Edit: Oct 16, 2020 9:57:54 GMT by georgeb
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Oct 19, 2020 20:36:46 GMT
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fantastic.
p.s please can we have more waffling drive out videos ?
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Really good description that (autumn vs summer); captures things perfectly.
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Great! Feel guilty pointing out the issue and causing you a whole load more work, but I think it's better to have it correct. Fab sunset picture, really sums up the character of these cars.
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goldnrust
West Midlands
Minimalist
Posts: 1,887
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Oct 21, 2020 13:55:16 GMT
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Thanks guys Will see what I can arrange darrenh, might be waiting a while till the lights as nice as it was that evening! Don't worry voucherboy, I'm glad you spotted it! I feel rather embarrassed to have not noticed it myself before. I've done a decent number of miles in the car this week, including 130 mile round trip through the Cotswolds on Saturday, and the wheel hasn't fallen off, so I must have put it back together correctly! I've also finally got round to finishing my alternator warning light circuit.  So for the first time the light on the dash illuminates when the ignition is turned on, and then goes out once the alternator starts spinning.  It's only a little thing, but it's quite nice to have felt like I designed the little circuit myself and it seems to be working nicely. This little bit of solid state electronics replaced the unreliable thermal relay that was originally used. |
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goldnrust
West Midlands
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Posts: 1,887
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Oct 24, 2020 19:15:59 GMT
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Continuing with the finishing off type jobs, I bit the bullet this week and started a job that I'd been considering on and off for some time, fixing the issues with the paint on the roof. When I first got the car the roof looked fine, and when I repaired the window frames I felt it was still ok so I just did localised repairs on the paintwork. But now that that the rest of the bodywork on the car is looking good, the defects in the roof really start to show. There were a couple of spots where the paint/filler that was covering some minor dents had cracked and quite a few spots where there was some blistering suggesting surface rust under the paint. I think the root cause of the issue was the pinholes I found (and dealt with) when working on the underside of the roof, if they let moisture get in under the paint it would cause the filler to lift and the paint to blister.   Bare metalling the roof would be a big job, and I don't think worth it as the problems are pretty localised, still to stop the corrosion the problem areas needed to go back to bare metal. It was time to take an angle grinder to my otherwise shiny car. Eek!  With the mess cleared up, you can see where I've taken it back to shiny metal and it doesn't look quite so drastic!  I gave all the bare metal a coat of rust convertor to help stabilise things...  .. and then today got started with the filler.  Most of it very thin, just making up for the layers of paint I'd removed. There's a couple of low spots still, but I think one more pass and I'll be ready to start prepping for paint. I'm getting quite tempted with new projects, so the Daimlers days with me may be numbered. Trying not to rush into things though, as I don't want to do anything I regret! |
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Oct 25, 2020 12:17:41 GMT
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...so the Daimlers days with me may be numbered.  Nooooo! It'd be like watching your mate split up with his missus when they were so well suited! |
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Oct 25, 2020 12:32:00 GMT
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I'll straight swap ya for an 85 323i bmw ha ha ha.
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goldnrust
West Midlands
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Posts: 1,887
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Oct 25, 2020 17:55:54 GMT
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It'd be like watching your mate split up with his missus when they were so well suited! To continue the analogy, maybe it’s one of this relationships that looks perfect from the outside, but there’s problems beneath the surface and deep down he’s getting the feeling that she’s just not ‘the one’? There are days when they rekindle the spark of their early relationship, but more days than not, the reality of everyday life just isn’t working out like they hoped it would... In full ‘end of relationship’ style, if I decide to part with the Daimler it would be part of a complete shake up of my fleet. with a change of daily and change of rolls for the cars. With the Spitfire I found myself wanting to ‘use’ my classic more, but it was noisy and not practical as a small 2 seat soft top. So the Daimler was to be more comfortable and more accommodating so I would want to use it more. But in hindsight, by the very nature of it being a classic I don’t really end up using it any more than the Spitfire, and keeping money and space for the Daimler limits my daily driver options. So if this experiment hasn’t worked, I’m thinking of a more basic classic that can be more easily pushed to the side and kept properly as a ‘toy’ and then putting some more time/money/space aside for my daily driver. Sorry tineca...  |
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TessierAshpool
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 520
Club RR Member Number: 168
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Oct 26, 2020 12:29:00 GMT
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HubNut drove a '65 Jag S-Type recently, and I noticed in his video he was remarking about it not wanting to shift to first gear either, wonder if it's similar to what you have experienced? (mentioned at 19:10 in video)
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Oct 26, 2020 17:38:28 GMT
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It'd be like watching your mate split up with his missus when they were so well suited! To continue the analogy, maybe it’s one of this relationships that looks perfect from the outside, but there’s problems beneath the surface and deep down he’s getting the feeling that she’s just not ‘the one’? There are days when they rekindle the spark of their early relationship, but more days than not, the reality of everyday life just isn’t working out like they hoped it would... In full ‘end of relationship’ style, if I decide to part with the Daimler it would be part of a complete shake up of my fleet. with a change of daily and change of rolls for the cars. With the Spitfire I found myself wanting to ‘use’ my classic more, but it was noisy and not practical as a small 2 seat soft top. So the Daimler was to be more comfortable and more accommodating so I would want to use it more. But in hindsight, by the very nature of it being a classic I don’t really end up using it any more than the Spitfire, and keeping money and space for the Daimler limits my daily driver options. So if this experiment hasn’t worked, I’m thinking of a more basic classic that can be more easily pushed to the side and kept properly as a ‘toy’ and then putting some more time/money/space aside for my daily driver. Sorry tineca ... I know what you are saying however, back in 2004 I sold an Isle of Wight Frogeye for just under 5K, it was in great condition and I used the money plus 2.5K of savings to buy a modern S-Type which turned out to be a money pit (but thats another story).
Three years later the S-Type was worth 2.5K and I had effectivly lost the Frogeye and had nothing to show for it. Fast forward to today and the frogeye would be worth close on 20K whereas the Jag would be a worth less than a grand.
The moral of the story is that money invested in a classic (wisely as you have done) will not only give you a damn fine car to enjoy but also will at least hold its value if not increase.
On the other hand money ploughed into a modern car is money that will disappear before your eyes.
Just my 2P!
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goldnrust
West Midlands
Minimalist
Posts: 1,887
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Oct 26, 2020 22:52:10 GMT
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I hadn’t see that video TessierAshpool. It’s likely it is the same gearbox as mine, so could be that it was out of adjustment as just shifting up out of first so early he didn’t feel like it was in first. Alternatively, if he wasn’t aware of the D2/d1 shift pattern, where you’d expect to find D on most auto shifters is where you get the car pulling off in 2nd. I’ve noticed a couple of different YouTube videos from classic car dealers where they misunderstand the selector pattern. That doesn’t apply to mine though as my valve body has been swapped out for the more ‘normal’ drive, hold 2nd and hold 1st pattern. I completely agree homersimpson, in terms of investment money in classics is far better than money into modern cars. In the general case, classics appreciate where moderns depreciate. There’s more to life than perfect investments though... at the end of the day I’m just trying to find the set of vehicles that brings me the most happiness from driving them. The idea of a more basic classic is about the driving experience it offers, rather than its value. |
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Last Edit: Oct 26, 2020 22:56:56 GMT by goldnrust
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Nooooo!
