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c19 boredom alert ! bits of info .. Hi, I just thought you might like to know that I raced a Daimler SP250 in club races in the 70's and 80's using an engine that had been bored out 156 thou and utilising special forged pistons. It gave me no problems and after the last rebuild it ran for four years before finally becoming rather tired so I retired it and myself. I currently have an SP on the road using standard Bonnie plus 20 pistons. I am pretty sure you can also use the High compression ones and these are available up to plus 60. The problem with the engine in the saloon as it gets older is cooling, in that as there is not much room around the engine it does not get sufficient cooling causing hot spots. This shows itself with the skirt dropping off one or more of the pistons at the rear of the engine. Unfortunately Jaguar did not help by using a piston with an oil groove that is machined with three long slots whereas Dimler used a piston with an oil groove that was drilled with many holes. The latter never breaks. from here ... www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=140&t=746020&i=80seem reasonable ... www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=triumph+750+pistons&_sacat=02.65 litres with a +60 i think ? regards robert .
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Last Edit: May 6, 2020 11:29:30 GMT by ivanhoew
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sonus
Europe
Posts: 1,392
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+150 will make it just a fraction above 2.8, but it then needs bespoke pistons, better to go +40. Then you can reborn in the future for +60. Search the DLOC-forum for which triumph pistons you need or give Russ and Andrew Carpenter a ring 👍
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Current 1968 TVR VIXEN S1 V8 Prototype 2004 TVR T350C 2017 BMW 340i
Previous BMW 325d E91LCI - sold Alfa Romeo GTV - sold Citroen AX GT - at the breakers Ford Puma 1.7 - sold Volvo V50 2.0d - sold MGB GT - wrecked by fire MG ZT 1.8T - sold VW E-golf Electric - sold Mini Countryman 1.6D -sold Land Rover Discovery TD5 - sold
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goldnrust
West Midlands
Minimalist
Posts: 1,887
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jamesd1972 as sonus points out, upto +0.150" bore is quite achievable but anything over +0.60" looks to mean custom pistons stuff. As mentioned in the thread ivanhoew dug out, the Triumph motorbike pistons are the 'go to' option for these engines. The engines have a certain amount of shared design, both designed by the same chap, so the Triumph pistons are very nearly a drop in fit. The only slight complication is that the Triumph 750 standard bore is 2.992" and the Daimler 3.000", so if I get some +0.60" Triumph pistons I'd essentially get my block bored to +0.052"! homersimpson, yes I'm lucky to be stuck at home with my car, rather than stuck separately from it. At least you can still push on with your doors for now
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Last Edit: May 8, 2020 20:33:50 GMT by Deleted
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goldnrust
West Midlands
Minimalist
Posts: 1,887
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May 13, 2020 19:25:34 GMT
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Thanks for the heads up @grumpynorthener. I believe that seller advertises via eBay too, and is where my replacement doors came from. I don't think there's anything I specifically need right now, aside from new bits to go in my engine rebuild. Been making a bit of bonnet progress over the last few days. I started by welding in the repairs I had previously made-up for the rear underside framework. And then doing the usual cardboard templates, traced on to steel, cut out, bend up and weld in routine for the front framework. Which meant I could flip the bonnet over and start cutting out the damaged areas of skin. I decided to cut the damaged areas off in sections. As the steel I'd got to make my repair sections isn't as big as the bonnet I was going to have to make the repair in several stages regardless, and by only cutting one section out at a time I was able keep more rigidity in the bonnet and hopefully get the shape better. So I worked my way along the edge of the bonnet cutting sections out, then making a card template, forming a steel section and then welding that in... ...till I had a complete bonnet once again. I then gave the folded return, like a door skin, a good bit of hammer and dolly work to get a nice tight fold and dressed the repair generally and offered it up to the car. It's not bad, but the shut line definitely needed work. As you can see I'd marked up where it needed cutting back, or extending. This is where working round a painted car is more of a pain as I had to take the bonnet on and off several times as I made adjustments. Mostly I was trimming back the edge, which was more awkward than adding extra metal. In this case I chopped the edge back with the grinder then welded over the corner to join the layers back up and ground it smooth. And now it's looking much better. Bonnet isn't latched here, so thats why the gap is wider at the front! And so it was time to get some filler on it. it's had a couple of passes, and it isn't far off so I popped a bit of primer on it to get a gauge of how it was looking. The rough shape is pretty close, so just gotta get the finish nice now. In other Daimler news, I ordered some quarter light seals, as I didn't change them when I did the doors and there was a howling gale coming though them when I went on the test drive. So when they arrive, that's another small job I can sort out soon.
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May 13, 2020 20:34:12 GMT
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Thats looking great, its a really hard panel to repair as it curves all over the place. I cheated and bought another one for mine.
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May 13, 2020 21:31:55 GMT
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Brave repair - and successful. Excellent work sir!
Nick
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1967 Triumph Vitesse convertible (old friend) 1996 Audi A6 2.5 TDI Avant (still durability testing) 1972 GT6 Mk3 (Restored after loong rest & getting the hang of being a car again)
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agreed, very nice job on that hood!
JP
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I know its spelled Norman Luxury Yacht, but its pronounced Throat Wobbler Mangrove!
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eternaloptimist
Posted a lot
Too many projects, not enough time or space...
Posts: 2,578
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Nice work there.
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XC70, VW split screen crew cab, Standard Ten
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You can tell you are enjoying the work and it shows that repair is just superb. My moggy still has identity issues and thinks its a Daimler. We are scared to mention its a morris within earshot. Have a look at its speaker wrapped in red leather!!
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goldnrust
West Midlands
Minimalist
Posts: 1,887
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Thanks guys It's very nice of you all to say nice things about the metal work. I'm pleased with how this one came out, now that it's done! I was a bit worried when the shut line wasn't great, but it wasn't as bad to fix as I'd anticipated. tineca, if that's real leather your Moggy is actually one up on the Daimler. From factory nothing in my Daimler, apart from the seat fronts and dash top, was real leather. The rest was all vinyl. Also my speaker grill is noticeably less shiny than that!
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Last Edit: May 14, 2020 7:52:32 GMT by goldnrust
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you are getting really good at this metal work and weldng chap ..most impressive .
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Ha ha ha, aye its real leather, 2 quid from a car boot with no real idea what I would do with it. Can you get on with the engine next we are all sat here waiting h ha
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Nice bonnet repair - sometimes you just have to bite the bullet and crack on - its exactly how I would have undertaken the repair in several sections on a methodical basis - with the outer curvature being compound you are not going to achieve it in any other way i.e. in a one piece repair - well done - most others would have confined the bonnet to the scrap pile and gone in search of a used panel in a better condition
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Last Edit: May 14, 2020 8:33:37 GMT by Deleted
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May 14, 2020 14:54:23 GMT
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Very nice job on the bonnet as well. A real pleasure to follow your work.
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goldnrust
West Midlands
Minimalist
Posts: 1,887
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May 14, 2020 17:54:30 GMT
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Thanks gents. tineca, engines yes. At some stage when I deem it less irresponsible to spend my savings at the machine shop / when the machine shops are open again! For now there's bonnet, quarter light seals, sun visors and gearbox shift pattern oddness to work on. @grumpynorthener my original plan was very much to confine the bonnet to the scrap pile and go in search of a used panel in a better condition! But finding myself with more spare time than usual, and stuck at home, I figured it couldn't hurt to have a go with the old bonnet.
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Last Edit: May 14, 2020 17:57:32 GMT by goldnrust
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eurogranada
Europe
To tinker or not to tinker, that is the question...
Posts: 2,556
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I can and will only echo the sentiments so far: great read, great work and very nice repair on that bonnet!
I personally like your perseverance!
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Morning. Just noticed your work. I'm in Sunderland and have pretty much done the same as you. My car is a 67 Daimler V8 250 and it had good floors and I built a body around the good floors. I know you are going to do efi etc. I went another route and have a 200bhp BMW motor in. It should give about 280lbft torque so is quite nippy. I haven't looked at everything you have done yet but will later. I have just uploaded how to fit EPAS to a vy on the Daimler V8 page. Brakes wise I found fitting s type on the front was quite easy and xj6 on the back. I can squeal the tyres at 40 mph so they are quite good. I will have a good look through what you are doing later. Keep up the good work! Regards Bob Usher
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Morning. Just noticed your work. I'm in Sunderland and have pretty much done the same as you. My car is a 67 Daimler V8 250 and it had good floors and I built a body around the good floors. I know you are going to do efi etc. I went another route and have a 200bhp BMW motor in. It should give about 280lbft torque so is quite nippy. I haven't looked at everything you have done yet but will later. I have just uploaded how to fit EPAS to a vy on the Daimler V8 page. Brakes wise I found fitting s type on the front was quite easy and xj6 on the back. I can squeal the tyres at 40 mph so they are quite good. I will have a good look through what you are doing later. Keep up the good work! Regards Bob Usher Thats a real teaser of a first post... full thread required immediately please!
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'80 s1 924 turbo..hibernating '80 golf gli cabriolet...doing impression of a skip '97 pug 106 commuter...continuing cheapness making me smile!
firm believer in the k.i.s.s and f.i.s.h principles.
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goldnrust
West Midlands
Minimalist
Posts: 1,887
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May 17, 2020 18:16:53 GMT
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Morning. Just noticed your work. I'm in Sunderland and have pretty much done the same as you. My car is a 67 Daimler V8 250 and it had good floors and I built a body around the good floors. I know you are going to do efi etc. I went another route and have a 200bhp BMW motor in. It should give about 280lbft torque so is quite nippy. I haven't looked at everything you have done yet but will later. I have just uploaded how to fit EPAS to a vy on the Daimler V8 page. Brakes wise I found fitting s type on the front was quite easy and xj6 on the back. I can squeal the tyres at 40 mph so they are quite good. I will have a good look through what you are doing later. Keep up the good work! Regards Bob Usher Car looks great Bob. BMW engine sounds interesting... a BMW straight 6 or BMW v8? My brake combo of aftermarket 4 pots up front and E-type S2 rear callipers didn't feel quite as impressive as I might have hoped on the short drive I did. But that's compared to modern car brakes, and when I checked the rotors when I got home they were far from fully bedded in, so should get better.
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