|
|
|
Apr 18, 2020 22:02:29 GMT
|
|
I'm tight so if it was me I would just sort out those 2 bores - either have them sleeved and bored to suit your existing pistons or see if you can overbore those 2 enough to clear the damage.
Get the best crank ground or polished and use that with new bearings.
When you are finished chuck everything left back together and eBay it to get something back...
|
| |
|
|
|
|
stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,954
Club RR Member Number: 174
|
|
Apr 18, 2020 22:19:58 GMT
|
My original crank is generally good, some light scoring, will either need a polish or a grind to -10. I’m not trusting the measurements from my cheap micrometer for that kinda accuracy. Either way my old crank will be good to go with minor work. My original pistons are all tidy enough looking, but I think they are the original ones and will have covered a fair few miles. I suppose it would be possible to sleeve all 8 bores of this block down to standard size and use my original piston set? But I don’t know how sensible that would be in terms of reliability / cost compared to just boring this block out for bigger oversize pistons? Would be cheaper to go to the next size and buy a set of pistons. Obvious route to do it "properly" would be find a couple of +30 pistons then sleeve those 2 cylinders and bore them to +30. Single pistons are generally cheap as they're a bit useless unless there's a full set. |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
You could chop it down and make a sweet V6 :-)
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
I guess at least you have a block without a crack. I would me minded to do what you said and sleeve the two cylinders and go with the rest. That way it's basically sound. Disappointing I know. At least when you are at full chat on a dual carriageway you know that all will be well and nothing inside is gonna go bang. Best wishes
|
| |
|
|
v8ian
Posted a lot
Posts: 3,832
|
|
|
|
|
The modern Jaguar V6 engines are V8s, same block but just don't use the spare bores, just a thought, or, we used to have an aerial square 4, (or my dad did, I was too young), that had 3 ally pistons and one of what looked like OAK.......
|
| |
Atmo V8 Power . No slicks , No gas + No bits missing . Doing it in style.
Austin A35van, very different------- but still doing it in style, going to be a funmoble
|
|
goldnrust
West Midlands
Minimalist
Posts: 1,887
|
|
|
|
Hmmm... there would be some more room in the engine bay if I chopped a couple of cylinder off.... possibly room for a turbo to make up the power difference!  If only it was that easy! Not sure about wooden pistons v8ian, I'm sure I've seen it tried on YouTube and it didn't end well!  Indeed tineca, with a nights sleep to take away the initial sting of disappointment, I can be a bit more pragmatic. Whilst my idea to shortcut some time and expense of engine rebuilding has failed, I'm still a step or two further up the path towards a working engine. |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Apr 19, 2020 10:24:09 GMT
|
|
I’d say considering the price these blocks/engines seem to demand you’re winning. At least you’ve got the main part of the puzzle and it’s in a condition that can be used, all be it with a little work.
|
| |
|
|
v8ian
Posted a lot
Posts: 3,832
|
|
Apr 19, 2020 12:35:38 GMT
|
Now theres a thought, S type Jag, 2.5/3.0 v6, and a Turbo, parts are readily available from Nobel  |
| |
Atmo V8 Power . No slicks , No gas + No bits missing . Doing it in style.
Austin A35van, very different------- but still doing it in style, going to be a funmoble
|
|
|
|
|
Apr 19, 2020 15:26:33 GMT
|
|
I'd just take the lot (ideally) to Russ Carpenter or any reputable machine shop and let them check all parts over and see what they say first.
|
| |
|
|
goldnrust
West Midlands
Minimalist
Posts: 1,887
|
|
Apr 19, 2020 18:31:59 GMT
|
Well all I can do on the engine now, till lockdown is over and I can head out to a machine shop, is tedious clearing type stuff. So I did some moral boosting cosmetic bits and bobs this afternoon. Firstly I put the seats back together and put them in the car.   I did have a fresh coffee near by, but I'm not sure that's the kinda of thing ivanhoew was suggesting I'd need for when the seats go back in! Anyway, it's come out pretty well, and I'm pleased with it all. I also did the next experiment with wheel colours. The eagle-eyed might have spotted a gloss black wheel sneaking into the corner of one of the seats shots, it was an improvement, but not quite right. So today I tried satin black and I think we're getting somewhere.  That's working for me, especially if at some stage the car gets a bit closer to the floor (without an engine it's sitting exceptionally high!). You can also see where I've been testing out the polishing compound on the rear door. I'm looking forward to it all being shiny |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Apr 19, 2020 18:51:05 GMT
|
|
Some nice red band tyres would look cool on it now.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Apr 19, 2020 22:26:07 GMT
|
|
Those seats look amazing, were these leather or ambla?
Its really coming together, just need to get some motive power under the bonnet.
Are any of the local machine shops still working?
|
| |
|
|
goldnrust
West Midlands
Minimalist
Posts: 1,887
|
|
|
|
The seats are mostly leather. The piping is faux leather oddly, as are the lower panels on the rear seat bench, and the back of the front seats. I haven’t checked with any machine shops. I wouldn’t really consider driving out to one ‘essential travel’ right now. Being self employed, the financial uncertainty of these times means I’m going to have to hold back before spending that kinda money. I’ll keep my eyes open for parts as and when I’ve got some spare money, but things are gonna slow down a bit till the work starts coming in again. |
| |
Last Edit: Apr 20, 2020 6:55:26 GMT by goldnrust
|
|
sonus
Europe
Posts: 1,392
|
|
Apr 20, 2020 18:51:39 GMT
|
Sorry, but my spare pistons looks to be stock size. If they can be of any use let me know 👍  |
| |
Current
1968 TVR VIXEN S1 V8 Prototype
2004 TVR T350C
2017 BMW 340i
Previous
BMW 325d E91LCI - sold
Alfa Romeo GTV - sold
Citroen AX GT - at the breakers
Ford Puma 1.7 - sold
Volvo V50 2.0d - sold
MGB GT - wrecked by fire
MG ZT 1.8T - sold
VW E-golf Electric - sold
Mini Countryman 1.6D -sold
Land Rover Discovery TD5 - sold
|
|
|
|
|
Apr 21, 2020 18:29:29 GMT
|
I realise that this is an entire car (and you're perhaps looking for engine bits?) but thought I'd post a link nevertheless - was browsing FB tonight and saw this: www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/351784335436525/ Love the seats by the way - great result. |
| |
|
|
goldnrust
West Midlands
Minimalist
Posts: 1,887
|
|
|
|
I think it’s fair to say that ‘rough around the edges is a bit of an understatement when applied to that project! It’s also a reminder that despite all the welding I’ve done on mine, mine really wasn’t bad compared to lots of projects out there. Talking of mine, I have an admission to make. I’d said I’d hand polish this car, I was obviously feeling optimistic that day. There’s a lot more to hand polish than on my Spitfire or Fulvia. So I’ve assembled myself a lockdown polisher. 1x hand polishing pad glued to an angle grinder backing pad, but and bolt through that so I can chuck it in the drill. Could be brilliant, could be a disaster. Will report back later.  |
| |
Last Edit: Apr 22, 2020 20:07:44 GMT by goldnrust
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Hi there
I use a polishing pad on my cordless drill for most of my renovating of paint.
It works well and gives few problems.
Cheers - mike
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
As long as it's slow speed and you move it around it should do ok. There's plenty of them on the market for drills already...
Just depends on whether you get bolt interference I guess...
|
| |
|
|
goldnrust
West Midlands
Minimalist
Posts: 1,887
|
|
Apr 22, 2020 20:18:13 GMT
|
While not a perfect tool, I think it's fair to say that was a successful experiment. It certainly was much much much less work than doing it by hand, and the end result looks good. On the downside I'm not sure how long the drill brushes will last under that kind of prolonged use, and the foam pad was pretty shredded by the time I finished. So if I were to do it again, would be worth buying a polishing pad designed ot go in a drill, rather than continuing with my cobbled together one. After compounding it, to get rid of the sanding scratches, it could really do with another pass of a 'normal' polish to remove the finer swirl marks left by the compound. But I don't have any. So I just went wild with the fancy Collinrite wax that a friend bought me. Anyway, a picture is worth a thousand words as they say...    Yes I did the other side, but it's hard to photograph as it's pretty tight to the side of the driveway, and without an engine I can't easily turn the car round on my own. And no I didn't do the bonnet. I was intending to bin it as it's full of filler and rust, and get myself a replacement. My enthusiasm for bodywork is pretty low after all that polishing, but I do have everything I'd need to repair the bonnet in the shed, so maybe I'll get bored enough in the coming weeks to sort it out. |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Apr 22, 2020 20:29:17 GMT
|
|
Looking good!
|
| |
|
|
If only it was that easy! 
