1953 Jowett Jupiter - Grumpy Northeners Farewell

continue to be impressed with this.

So don't want to hijack the thread but thought you might be interested in this:

www.undiscoveredclassics.com/forgotten-fiberglass/1956-devin-jowett-jupiter-special-finds-new-home-in-asuncion-paraguay/

showed up in my inbox this morning

Applied seam sealer to the areas behind the rear quarter panel



Then completed the welded repairs to the door frame & dressed them back



Sectioned out the areas on the base of the door skin and fabricated repair panels for them



Then gave the door frame a good scrub prior to applying Hydrate 80 to all original areas of the door frame



Final preparation to the repair panels prior to them being bonded



This basically amounts to a final check and ensuring that all areas are free of dust & any silicone - a wash with panel wipe resolves this



Then on with the bonding



Which is also riveted into place



And temporally clamped where required



Door skin repairs also bonded



Along with small repairs on the nearside rear of the shroud



And the nearside rear wing bumper bar iron aperture



These I will dress back / tidy in the morning

Only a few of the rivets on the rear repairs are dome head but into countersunk rebated holes and will get dressed back - the rest are are all countersunk but I inadvertently ran out - the repairs on the rear are done with a repair section behind the panel with a infill panel bonded to correct the indent / panel depth (rather than just place filler to level the panel depth discrepancy) and has you state the repair areas are too small to attempt a joggled repair

Can you tell me what PBR stand for please,(next to the hols that need attention). Thanks

Lots done and not a lot to show for it



I have had to rework the door somewhat to achieve an acceptable fit (what's acceptable to others and acceptable to me is quite often a very different thing)



But eventually I started to gain some results - door lock mechanism fitted and the door probably has never fitted / latched better than this in the cars lifetime - It still requires some tweaks but I'm getting there



Garth - The cars owner called over to drop a few parts off but the main reason was to see how we could remove the wear / play in the clutch pedal arm - with the wear the arm was fouling on the bulkhead aperture - easy solution is to just elongate the aperture to prevent the fouling buts that's not how I or Garth work



Ideally we need to factor a way of centralising the arm - it slots on to a pressed in chassis mounted double ended shaft - one side serves the brake pedal arm and the other the clutch pedal arm with the main chassis tube running between them



With the pedal arm removed we could look at the options - the shaft is true & straight (would be a major job to remove from the chassis)
- wear is within the eye of the pedal arm but less than 1mm but with the arm fitted over the length its probably +5mm - having considered that there is little tolerance within the arm eye to open out & insert a shimming bush we decided that we would attempt to just shim the arm over on the shaft and see if that would work - so I just have to make up some shimming washers to the correct diameter and trail fit the arm to see if it will work - like many things I would much rather resolve issues like this at this stage rather than leave them and then have to resolve them once the car is painted - Over the years I have seen so many decent paint jobs of others ruined by a lack of planning - having to cut steels / create swarf debris etc upon a freshly painted car is just asking for disaster

I'll never complain about taking several minutes to fit my new ones again!

James - Bumpers are spares that I keep for checking panel tolerances / bumper iron fit - the originals are already chromed & back with the owner - there also
over ridders that are fitted to both the front & rear bumpers and yes providing you are being sensible with a Jupiter restoration it should be readily covered with the vehicles value upon completion - this car will enter the upper league of Jupiter values upon completion but its all too easy to get carried away - its easy to purchase a on the road car for £25 - £30k only to find its going to cost £20k + to get it into the upper league by which point you will be out of pocket - far better to purchase a restoration car at sub £10k then expend £30k in getting restored at which point you wont make any money but you wont loose any either - the big problem is that sub £10k cars for restoration are now exceedingly rare

It certainly did when I had my P4 Rover. I lost a fortune on it when I sold it on. 

In fairness though, the same money spent on a brand new car, would have resulted in the same kind of losses through depreciation over the eight or so years I had it. 

Classic cars, as an investment, is a long game. Often, gains are accidental, rather than planned. When I bought my Land-Rover, the same money would have got me an early eighties one if I’d really looked hard enough, and on the face of it there’s not much to differentiate them. I’d certainly have had a W plate series 3 over my ‘59 series 2 at the time. But because my circumstances meant the older one was the one I chose, I have had 20+ years of no road tax, no need for an mot for the last eight, and have a vehicle worth double what a newer one would be worth. 

The only guarantee with old cars is that they’ll cost you money. How much is impossible to really say, and making a genuine profit near impossible. 

Many investors do not realise that classic cars can deteriorate quite quickly if not properly looked after.