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Is there not the possibility of getting Jowett panels made up in numbers so when you or other owners come to freshen up a Jowett you could use a fresh quality repo panel rather than having to work with bodges panels? That's exactly what we have been doing 'Jowett Car Spares' is owned & operated by the 'Jowett Car Club' - all on a voluntary basis - by the members for the members and on a not for profit basis - any surplus funds are ploughed straight back in to the resource & stock of parts in order to maintain all Jowett's where they belong 'On the Road' - being deeply involved within the club / committee member etc - I work directly with them in order to identify parts for future tooling / production & manufacture - it never stops - And even in these troubled times there is still 2 volunteers managing to access the stock and post it out weekly to members to ensure that all members can maintain / restore what is their garages & workshops |
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The killer will be paint, not fitting right at the very least (as well as looking naff) will see gaps 'decrease' with paint build up. Opening the doors will bring on the chance to chip paint. I know it's an obvious statement but the restos i've seen where folks skimp on this kind of detail. With all due respect not in my book it wont - have you ever seen what extent I go to before paint even goes near one of my restorations That wasn't a criticism of your work Grumpy just an observation of what happens when others short cut a problem like this. Your work is fantastic, attention to detail that's spot on. |
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1980 Vauxhall Cavalier MK1
1970 Mobyleete 40T custom
1978 Mobylette 50V
1965 Moulton Standard
1979 Raleigh Grifter custom
1980 Raleigh Grifter
1982 Raleigh Grifter BMX custom
1982 Raleigh Bomber
1987 Strida
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With all due respect not in my book it wont - have you ever seen what extent I go to before paint even goes near one of my restorations That wasn't a criticism of your work Grumpy just an observation of what happens when others short cut a problem like this. Your work is fantastic, attention to detail that's spot on. Yep - I appreciate where you are coming from - I have always judged a car initially from the panel fit first - then aperture gapping but one really follows the other - just going on these alone will tell you what kind of restoration / rebuild that a vehicle has been submitted to before looking at quality of the paint / trim / detail finish |
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Last Edit: May 2, 2020 19:03:38 GMT by Deleted
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Or in some cases the rubbish fit could mean it's never been messed with since it left the factory!
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Having given it enough thought by now I put the said thoughts in to practice  Forget the 3 sided repair section for the base of the A post - its deflecting the angle at which the post sits along with effecting the fulcrum / pivot points for the door hinges - instead form a new panel from scratch but initially has a face & base plate for the post  In between doing this remove the sill panel and adjust the apertures where it mounts to the front & rear rails - effectively lowering the height at which the panel sits by 5mm to provide further clearance between the sill rebate and door shell rebate  Panel for now is simply formed through the folder - this will require further works to dress the radius correctly - this was achieved in the same way at the factory - dressed accordingly to suit the door & wing profile - then made good by lead loading as required  I placed packers as required to achieve the correct gapping's  Then checked that I had the required tolerance between the sill & door shell rebates  The reinforcing web for the bottom hinge mounting is goosed - the door shell & skin will be addressed once I get on to the repairing the outer panels  Some further re-shimming on the upper hinge - this is just temporary I will make up some correctly shaped shim plates to pattern once I have the door fitting satisfactorily  A post repair temporally held in place  Bottom door hinge refitted and the base of the A post repair panel drilled to accept the hinge  Again once I'm happy with the door fit I will reinforce the base of the repair panel to ensure that it provides a secure location for the hinge bolts  At this point the required results started to emerge - not a prefect door gap but certainly a move in the right direction and something that I can work with in order to gain an acceptable tolerance  Clearance on the sill & door rebates  Critical is that the door hangs without sagging  Along with opening without fouling on anything  Next was to loosen off the rear superstructure mounting bolts and move the superstructure forward 7mm to close the gapping up between the B post & the door - this now sits at approximately 10mm - 5mm of which I need for the door aperture gapping & 5mm to allow for the rear shroud & quarter panel which returns in to the B post pillar itself  I have made a start on A post closure repair panels which I will make up in sections  I will continue this on Monday  Finally I have saved the best pic from today until last - ok its only a door - but it now fits where it should - more importantly it opens & closes - I'm off to inspect my gin collection  |
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Last Edit: May 2, 2020 19:07:21 GMT by Deleted
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jyd
Part of things
Posts: 113 
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That's a well deserved Gin Mr Grumpy!
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Finally I have saved the best pic from today until last - ok its only a door - but it now fits where it should - more importantly it opens & closes Love it when a plan comes together. I'm off to reduce my gin collection Knowing your penchant for accuracy, I fixed it for you!  |
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It's problems like ill fitting panels that can bring a project to a sudden halt - thankfully I have been here on several occasions and worked my way forward / out of the situation - it tends to be on vehicles with a separate chassis that these problems occur but I have also spent many hours straightening up unitary construction bodyshells in order to correct panel fits / aperture gapping - sadly I have seen all too many projects stall in the hands of the ambitious yet inexperienced restorer - One of the main failings is someone whom purchases a project in pieces on the assumption that everything will just bolt back together and it doesn't - projects like this tend to get shelved or eventually sold on to the unsuspecting or at a heavily reduced price to the knowledgeable
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Last Edit: May 3, 2020 10:04:33 GMT by Deleted
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I like the accuracy of a measurement that is 4 and 3/4 +20mm  |
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I like the accuracy of a measurement that is 4 and 3/4 +20mm Pretty sure I'm not the only one on here that combines both metric & imperial measurements when setting something out - just going for the measurement that reads the easiest - pretty sure blackpopracing is one of them - of course its also easy to cock up if you are not careful but having used the same method for 40 some years I'm unlikely to change methods anytime soon |
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vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,287
Club RR Member Number: 146
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Imperial for big measurements, metric for small, perhaps it's a displaced Northerner thing? I can't imagine big things in metric, and I can't imagine small things in imperial, so I mix and match to make things easier. Well, easier for me. Confuses the heck out of everyone else.
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glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,361
Club RR Member Number: 64
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I’m bilingual in measuring. Metric at school, imperial at home with my dad and uncles. Metric at college, imperial in the workshops as an apprentice. I can happily work in either, or a mixture as appropriate. I do try very hard to keep fixings “appropriate” to the vehicles I’m working on though.
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My worst worry about dying is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her it cost...
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another child of the metric age but spent glorious times as a child with old school craftsmen.
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Last Edit: May 3, 2020 16:18:30 GMT by strikey
'80 s1 924 turbo..hibernating
'80 golf gli cabriolet...doing impression of a skip
'97 pug 106 commuter...continuing cheapness making me smile!
firm believer in the k.i.s.s and f.i.s.h principles.
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I was pretty poor at maths so really struggled with fractions so am glad I've grown up with metric.
I built a stud wall recently and enlisted my dad to help. He was working in imperial and me in metric. We wasted a good few pieces of timber that day.
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Big imperial, small metric, very small thou'.
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bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,975
Club RR Member Number: 71
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another child of the metric age but spent glorious times as a child with old school craftsmen. I'm a cross over child - part schooled in imperial and then the country went metric (my dad didn't ) so I'm actually OK with either I tend to use imperial for anything longer than a 30 cm ruler and metric for anything less - I used to use imperial feeler gauges but I bought a set of metric ones as most modern manuals are all metric values Still measure fuel consumption in mpg despite only being able to buy fuel in litres Still prefer ft/lb for torque wrenches rather than N/M but both of my torque wrenches are "bilingual" I can't help but feel the country half heartedly embraced metrification...... |
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^^^^ I'm a carbon copy of how you work!!
As you say, imperial for big stuff and metric for small.
I tend to be a bit more metric now as I use AutoCAD every day which is fully metric.
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^^^ And me!
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Ich habe kein Geld!
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"Only a door"....well maybe, but you´re not only getting it to fit properly, but I keep reminding myself that you said they didn´t even do that when new. Not only fix it, but make it better than it´s ever been. Are the doors generally at least the same sort of length side for side?
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Last Edit: May 3, 2020 22:00:19 GMT by horrido
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bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,975
Club RR Member Number: 71
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^^^^ I'm a carbon copy of how you work!! As you say, imperial for big stuff and metric for small. I tend to be a bit more metric now as I use AutoCAD every day which is fully metric. No you aren’t I’ve seen your Pop in the flesh - I don’t turn out stuff that good |
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