Darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,878
Club RR Member Number: 39
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Sept 28, 2018 4:37:40 GMT
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Not sure that "turned off" is quite what I typed but the net result of having the dampers unset and left in the un-adjusted state is much the same. The damping without turning the adjuster from its zero setting is not in any effective operating range for the spring. With a light stiffly sprung sports car the result is somewhat different from a heavy softly sprung saloon which is why the owner builder probably knew no better. Pottering about and driving "normally" you may not notice but if you choose to actually drive the car then it starts to become obvious - At that point you do one of two things you drive slower or you fix the problem so you can go faster. I always choose the latter but believe that the greater majority go with the former due to not having the vaguest notion of how a car actually works.
After the drive out yesterday I think that my son has designs on "Bomber" I do wonder about him sometimes as he actually prefers the plankety plank rear end rather than the round tush!! - Then again, so did the builder of bomber and a few other Gem' builders as both styles were available at the same time. I wonder where I will find the dampers set on that car.
There is also something going on with the right hand lock on the steering as there does not appears to be a great deal of it for right handers. This is very likely to be a consequence of the rack being offset in chassis to the left and I suspect that there is not a great deal I can do about it except check for any lock stops that may be making matters worse and check that the rack is correctly central. After that its a case of seeing if the rack casing can be modified to improve matters. This sort of asymmetry maybe okay for anticlockwise ovals racing but it's not for me.
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ndg
Part of things
Posts: 109
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Sept 28, 2018 6:49:54 GMT
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Could you deliberate mis-centre the rack to get even lock and bump steer? Or in other words get the rack bar centred in the car even if the rack body is asymmetric?
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Darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,878
Club RR Member Number: 39
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Sept 28, 2018 12:52:39 GMT
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Could you deliberate mis-centre the rack to get even lock and bump steer? Or in other words get the rack bar centred in the car even if the rack body is asymmetric? If the rack is central - as it is for best bump steer - and the body offset then the result is what I have, limited lock on one side - To get even lock then the difference has to be taken up in the track arms which leaves the rack bar ends offset and horrible issues with bump steer - The only way to rectify is to centre the casing by reducing the length of the N/S.
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ndg
Part of things
Posts: 109
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Sept 28, 2018 20:25:23 GMT
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Could you deliberate mis-centre the rack to get even lock and bump steer? Or in other words get the rack bar centred in the car even if the rack body is asymmetric? If the rack is central - as it is for best bump steer - and the body offset then the result is what I have, limited lock on one side - To get even lock then the difference has to be taken up in the track arms which leaves the rack bar ends offset and horrible issues with bump steer - The only way to rectify is to centre the casing by reducing the length of the N/S. Ah right, with you now. Hopefully there are some lock stops on the rack bar that can be moved about?
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Sept 29, 2018 8:50:20 GMT
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Why is the rack body offset?
I'm assuming it is to solve some engine bay clearance issues?
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Darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,878
Club RR Member Number: 39
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Sept 29, 2018 12:05:15 GMT
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Why is the rack body offset? I'm assuming it is to solve some engine bay clearance issues? For the steering UJ to miss a chassis leg. Would have been a simple enough thing to rectify in the chassis design but even after 30 years of making them the same flaw is there - But, much as non adjusted shockers - 12V coils on 9 V supplies - siezed secondary choke. etc. etc. etc. the greater majority of owner builders - much the same with most car owners/drivers - just would not notice as they don't actually "drive" them or indeed have the slightest clue that a flaw or issue is actually present, ignorance is bliss and all that.
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ZXRob
Europe
Posts: 1,200
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Sept 29, 2018 13:37:50 GMT
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I have never been much of a kit car guy. Not because I think they are daft or anything I don't really know why but they just never grabbed me. These two things however I find are properly cool and I have been very much enjoying following this thread. I am looking forward to hearing how it develops.
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Darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,878
Club RR Member Number: 39
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Sept 30, 2018 16:40:48 GMT
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Wheel bearing Not made much progress on anything over the past few weeks due to rectification work on the L200 - but I did manage a little time today to investigate the wheel bearing on the Gemini. Remove the wheel and the hub/grease cap And behind this we find - no split pin retaining the hub nut ! - FFS what is wrong with people, if you have no idea what the hell you are doing step away from the tool box. So, knocked out the knackered bearing and fitted the nice new one. I would have done both as a matter of course but could only get hold of one side from my local factors on short notice. An axle set is on the way which will leave me with a spare once I have done the N/S No damage to the stub so that was good. Assembly with a decent retaining pin. Removed the back plate = Lighter With the standard of workmanship on the O/S creating some concern I thought it prudent to check the N/S So what we found was - the "Hammered nail" retainer does not actually retain anything. And the hub nut over-tightened - bearing is rough now but at least it did not undo! - I mean, - Really! I decided that I would at least remove the back plate which is when I noticed the way the brake line had been kinked when they had fitted a new caliper, and that the boot cover was still on the lower ball joint !! - WTF Both back plates removed - cover removed - all bolts checked for tightness - Brake line tweaked to un-kink as much as possible - Will redo this when the new wheel bearings are fitted in the week weather permitting. The brake hoses will get changed to Aeroquip in the near future and I will see if a banjo can be used for the caliper connection.
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Last Edit: Sept 30, 2018 19:54:11 GMT by Darkspeed
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Sept 30, 2018 20:44:47 GMT
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It's not just you Darkspeed This was the state of the hub nut I removed from the O/S front on the Midas when I was stripping it. If you thought that was bad, take a look at the face of the hub that it was attached to (it's the one on the left of the picture). The mind boggles. I can't begin to even imagine what went through their mind to think "That's ok"
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Darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,878
Club RR Member Number: 39
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Sept 30, 2018 21:52:57 GMT
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Yep - that's ugly.
I shouldn't be surprised by finding stuff like this as there are far too many people in this hobby with not the slightest idea what they are doing.
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I think the nut "remover" from the photo above should have his angle grinder rammed somewhere painful if he ever attempts to service a car again!! Jesus wept!!! Enjoying the progress reports Darkspeed, thanks.
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scary find!....glad you got that sorted out!
JP
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I know its spelled Norman Luxury Yacht, but its pronounced Throat Wobbler Mangrove!
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If you thought that was bad, take a look at the face of the hub that it was attached to (it's the one on the left of the picture). The mind boggles. I can't begin to even imagine what went through their mind to think "That's ok" At first glance I thought the bearing race in the left hub was half way removed, then I did a double take. Have they cut the hub down? Where does the outer bearing seal sit? Yep - that's ugly. I shouldn't be surprised by finding stuff like this as there are far too many people in this hobby with not the slightest idea what they are doing. I spend most of my time working on the Mini worrying that what I've done isn't good enough. I'm a developer and I have absolutely no mechanical engineering background other than what I learn myself so I'm always questioning myself and seeking advice when it comes to safety critical items. Seeing stuff like that blows my mind. Saying that, I have been to at least one professional garage that didn't bother to knock over the locking collar on the rear hub nut of my 106 a few years back.
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Last Edit: Oct 1, 2018 8:23:31 GMT by Deathrow
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lol at the level of Do.Ignorance.Yourself.
that packing shield on the balljoint is a corker.
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Last Edit: Oct 1, 2018 11:44:27 GMT by darrenh
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Darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,878
Club RR Member Number: 39
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"Packing shield" - I knew there would be a correct name for it - If the other issues where not enough that one certainly turns the dial up to max on the check everything meter. As it was a fine evening, with the added confidence of knowing nothing was likely to be falling off of the important turning and stopping equipment, I took a spirited drive out to drop in on a mate that lives locally who I had not been to see for bit. About 15 mile round trip and a decent enough variety of roads and surfaces to check the car out. I was grinning all the way there and all the way back with the Tach spending most of its time whipping about between 3500 and the bit where they run out and it just keeps delivering power all the way. Weight at SVA for this car was 642KG with a near 50/50 distribution - I think I have probably removed 10-15kg from that in timber and tin thus far so lets make it a round 630KG at the moment. The dyno sheet gives 102 BHP and interestingly for the 3500 to 7000 I found fun the max torque is at 3500 and power was still climbing when they stopped at 6000 for 102 so I suspect there may have been more come. I should say it's at least 160BHP/ton (about the same as an 1 Elise) and the nice thing is that you can use absolutely all of it. What a thing this is becoming. Now that we have effective damping and wheels held fast and pointing where they should it's such so easy to drive very quickly - I would now say that it's on par with my old Westy as far as handling goes and I will need to get some harnesses sorted as the cornering G is getting to the point where my core strength is not quite up to it. The gearing means that's it's no cruiser so you just find yourself using the revs, and with the Kent 234 cam it does rev quite eagerly. On uneven quite bumpy surfaces the ride may be bone shaking but there is no loss of composure from the car and it gives confidence by not deviating the slightest from the direction you have set. Pressing on through curves on smooth tarmac it just grips - Temperatures were low but those skinny 165's were not giving up anything. I have wanted one for some time and this one has really not disappointed at all. Plenty of bits I would change to improve things but as it stands it's really rather good, what! Nothing quite sounds like a Crossflow on 40's and as there is a pair in the shed it would be rude not to look out for a suitable manifold to put them onto and do just that at some stage. For now though, the odd blast on a sunny day as it is will do and a little fettle on this at that to improve it as time allows. Got back home grinning my face off.
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You are having FAR too much fun!
What's it going to be like when you have finished fiddling with it?
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Was this a 'barn find' Darkspeed or did you pick it up on carandclassic or something? Forgive me; can't face reading the entire 6 pages again! Really enjoyed this - v worrying, some of the 'workmanship' you've uncovered but really enjoying seeing it transform from a not-very-safe-ugly duckling into quite-the-weapon swan as it were.
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Darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,878
Club RR Member Number: 39
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Was this a 'barn find' Darkspeed or did you pick it up on carandclassic or something? Forgive me; can't face reading the entire 6 pages again! Really enjoyed this - v worrying, some of the 'workmanship' you've uncovered but really enjoying seeing it transform from a not-very-safe-ugly duckling into quite-the-weapon swan as it were. Quick summary 1st owner builder - 2003 - 2017 Built it and then stopped using it so it just sat idle for many years. 2nd owner tinkerer - 2017 - 2018 Bought it to use, did a few jobs to tart it up and get it through an MOT but fell short of getting it to work well enough to keep going with. I first saw it on eBay - did not meet its reserve and I thought it was going to reach far more than I wanted to pay so I as I already had one I gave it no more thought - Stumbled across it on Facebook for sale at little more than it reached before not selling on eBay - went to see it, and bought it.
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Darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,878
Club RR Member Number: 39
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The Wednesday Pizza meet only had two attendees this week - the usual talking rubbish eating Pizza and watching Roadkill + we watched a couple of the BP vids above.
As the roads were dry and the evening fair the Gemini was the choice of transportation to continue the shake down testing. Half the route to the Cheshire location is up some nice twisty roads but they are not the smoothest and that loud exhaust was definitely getting much louder - that should be DEAFinitely...
On checking on the security of the tailpipe - the exhaust is hidden in the side sill and just the exit is visible - it was apparent that the system was not as secure as it should be so the work before food was to have a peek at what was going on, so it was off with the cover just inside the passenger door to have a look see.
I will include a picture when I get the chance but I was surprised to find that apparently Carling make manifold to silencer repair sections, and that the second silencer mounting must have objected to the heat and noise in the sill and had unbolted itself and gone for a walk.
Having been pushed and prodded during the investigation as to why the noise level was getting to be a little above what would be considered tolerable, the exhaust noise level on the way home decided it would to be utterly antisocial.
Being pitch black as it was getting on for very dark o'clock on the way home, another issue was brought to my attention that will require attention, that of the complete lack of any dash illumination and the fact that the transition from dip to main just resulted in the amber coloured light that could be seen on the road, when raised to illuminate the way ahead just dispersed into the surroundings and left me switching between the two wondering which was more effective.
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Bet your ears were burning. A wee trail of faint "feck off ya noisy curse word" following your route home
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