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Darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,812
Club RR Member Number: 39
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1970 Ginetta G15 Darkspeed
@darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member 39
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What was the Engine originally used in please? Imp Sport 875cc - and the 998 a Special Imp Rallye / Rallye Imp - the benefit in the G15 with the rad up the front the engine driven fan was removed which liberated up to 7BHP, plus with a good rad up front and a large water capacity due to the front to back tubes the G15 never suffered from overheating even without a fan fitted ! Superb engine derived from Coventry Climax. A company that knew how to build a performance engine. The 875 Sport chucks out 55BHP and the 998 I have should be good for 75BHP - The Red Historic Rally G15 puts out over 100BHP
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Last Edit: Aug 4, 2018 19:25:05 GMT by Darkspeed
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Is it sad I knew that was a janspeed even from 2x1 inch photo on a cell phone
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jamesd1972
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,900
Club RR Member Number: 40
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1970 Ginetta G15 jamesd1972
@jamesd1972
Club Retro Rides Member 40
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Is it sad I knew that was a janspeed even from 2x1 inch photo on a cell phone Yes. But you already knew that ! Think we might need some colour coding or similar so we can work out which car / engine / chassis is which on this thread. Nice work, thanks for sharing James
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Darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,812
Club RR Member Number: 39
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1970 Ginetta G15 Darkspeed
@darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member 39
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.....Think we might need some colour coding or similar so we can work out which car / engine / chassis is which on this thread. Nice work, thanks for sharing James Well then JVV which is #13 - 1968 - is Currently Red and will remain Red and is being built up with a tall block 1200cc engine derived from a special Chesman engine and Janspeed large bore manifold and BMW K100 throttle bodies with special Elan derived drive shafts. BOY which is #100 - 1970 - is currently White and will end up Audi Papaya - its a Chesman 998 but not the recent Greetham/Chesman 998 I picked up but another one and will be on a Large bore manifold - induction not decided - and another pair of Elan shafts KBW which is #609 - 1972 - is currently White and could well be staying white but that's not certain as we got a job lot of Yellow in the parts with SLC. KBW will run a warm 875 with a small bore Janspeed system Strommies and stock 7/8" shafts SLC which is #655 - 1973 - is Currently in clear Gel but was Burgundy and will be RAL Pure Orange and run a ported 875 Sport with a Janspeed small bore and a pair of Strommies on 7/8" shafts PHX which is #686 - 1973 - is currently Red but may turn blue in the near future - It runs a fully ported rally spec 1020 with a Janspeed combined on twin 40 DCOE's and runs on 1" Shafts and now with uprated bolts due to the exhaust incident. Also in there was a picture of HYK which is #174 -1971- in a Land Rover Orange I think - full race 1040 with a combined manifold running Twin 40's 1" Shafts I cannot think of any others at this time that will be making any sort of appearances in this thread - In the main it will be about BOY know as BOY, KBW known as Kibble and SLC known as Slick. With the odd appearance of PHX Known as the Historic Rally G15. Oh and JVV probably, known as Mr B's 15 But mostly it will be about BOY, Kibble and Slick. That should hopefully clear up any confusion.
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Last Edit: Aug 11, 2018 18:24:51 GMT by Darkspeed
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Darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,812
Club RR Member Number: 39
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1970 Ginetta G15 Darkspeed
@darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member 39
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Aug 27, 2018 20:26:40 GMT
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Small update on the tale of 5 15's - SLiC has a new owner. This was going to be a joint venture build but my mate has done me a solid and bought me out of the project so I can go and spend money on another! I am retaining a few key parts for my efforts - I get a nice engine and gearbox for my project and SLiC gets my spare 875 Sport engine and gearbox - My stash of parts gets raided (no bad thing as I really need the space) as does my knowledge and goodwill stores. The weekly get together's will be spent on Kibble and SliC at his place. We did do some exploratory work on SLiC today as it has a very off-roader stance. Two reasons for this - Spax have no idea what a G15 is what so always supply the wrong ones if you just order the fixed plaform coilovers - The ones fitted here are for an early chassis car that has a taller "tower". The rears springs are just far too long - no idea what they are off of but we will look through the bills to find out and they will be sold off accordingly the fronts we will have a chat with Spax to see if anything can be done. The body also sits a smidge high on the chassis due to some strengthening plates that require the body to be tickled with the burr to make suitable clearances. Checked on the fit and finish of the rear clam on BOY which will be filled, fettled and smoothed to produce a new mould for a new clam for SLiC - the rear clam cover on BOY being about the best fit and finish that I have seen on one of these.
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Aug 28, 2018 10:11:29 GMT
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I've definitely mentioned this before but I love G15s ![:)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/smiley.png) great to see so many being nursed back to health!
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Darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,812
Club RR Member Number: 39
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1970 Ginetta G15 Darkspeed
@darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member 39
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I will tuck the G21 work in here as well being that a G21 has doors that are similar to a G15 - Too tenuous? - well too bad its happening. No further progress has been made on the car since the works started on page 16 of the Strato's thread if you fancy playing catch up using the link below. A couple of thing held that back but we are now progressing when time is available. This weekend I pulled the car off the grass, onto the drive and then up onto some stands - Time to sort the propshaft out. After inspecting the old Mazda UJ's they were well past being usable and as they are staked units when they go the prop is really only fit for the bin - on the phone to Dave Mac props in Cov' and they can build one to my specification that will outlast me and the cars owner for what I think is a very reasonable amount. I then turned my attention to the remaining rusty head lamp bowl and ripped that out of the body and whilst in the getting rid of the ugly mood the grinder was set to work an numerous rusted solid fasteners on air horns - washer pumps - wiper motor mounts - wiring clips and anything else I saw with a rusty bolt attached to it. Wiring harness next as I want to get the car running before winter so first off was removing the old loom which like the rest of metallic parts of this car was just too far gone to do anything with and as we had a perfectly good MX5 loom that will provided for all and more of the services required by the G21 it can get re purposed. Going to get the rear shocks and springs on order as well as soon as I can find the design sheet I had for them.... I suspect that will be work I will be doing over.
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Darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,812
Club RR Member Number: 39
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1970 Ginetta G15 Darkspeed
@darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member 39
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And PHX was out competing in the 2018 Tour Of Cheshire - About to set of on the Oulton test here by the looks of it. As historic Rally cars go this is about the lowest you are ever likely to see.
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Darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,812
Club RR Member Number: 39
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1970 Ginetta G15 Darkspeed
@darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member 39
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Oct 19, 2018 17:42:52 GMT
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An historical how to. Fixing a slopping gear change on an Imp / G15 etc. After a few decades of use the gearchange on an Imp or G15 can get a bit vague - typically getting the car into reverse being tricky is one of the key indication. The usual culprit pointed to in the line-up is the gearshaft flexible joint and this does go a bit limp with a age (ooh err misses) and result in a less than slickety slick change but the other causes are worn out pivot balls, gates and joints. Step one remove the gear change mech from the car. Gear lever assembly Gear change shaft - shorter G15 variety Springy thingy If the gearstick does a bit of bobbing up and down in the housing it is because this is going on under that cover Drill out the rivets and you will find this - the original rubber pivot - disintegrated And on closer inspection you may also find the gate a bit worse for wear But after a bit of weldy grindy fettly you will find yourself with one approximating the resemblance of a nearly almost better new one
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Last Edit: Oct 20, 2018 11:01:09 GMT by Darkspeed
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Darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,812
Club RR Member Number: 39
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1970 Ginetta G15 Darkspeed
@darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member 39
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Oct 19, 2018 18:09:34 GMT
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The eagle eyed among you will note that there appears to be more than one being worked on, you will be quite correct in this observation as having had a few G15's every single one has had a shot gearchange. Onwards we go. Once we have brought the gate up to scratch It is time to sort out the lever. - Now before you attempt to take this apart to fix you need to get yourself a new pivot ball - the good old club of Imps have had these manufactured so they can supply as can most of the well known Imp suppliers like Malcolm Anderson etc. Remove the remaining part of the old two part pivot and give the stick a good clean and inspect the ball part of the ball joint end making sure that little spring loaded ball is still there. knock the pin out and remove the steel sleeve and throw it in the odds and ends bin Drop the new nylon pivot on the shaft and pop the pin back in Drop it back into the gate with a bit of lube - I used rubber grease And button it up - one done in situ if just doing the ball. And one done on the bench The other part that wears is the cup part of the joint. Which will require more weldy grindy fettle if you are to do the job to the bestest of your abilities As I cant find any pictures of post fettle you will need to accept that they look like new when I have finished.
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Darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,812
Club RR Member Number: 39
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1970 Ginetta G15 Darkspeed
@darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member 39
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Oct 19, 2018 18:19:16 GMT
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The other parts that require inspection are the plastic parts that the change rod slides through. Old and new Again all available through the same merchants as the other parts. Now, once all this effort has been expended the shift should be hot knife through a bolt action @quatermass quickly shifty about time he was dragged away from his pit of misery to glance at why he has been mentioned in someone elses. Once this work has been completed the change will be transformed because same as QM with is dodgy Ford box you will have replaced some essential missing slickness giving parts. Except with our work the ball is pennies, and you now have a complete walk through to follow. If you are in Shropshire I can provide the weldy grindy bits if you don't have those bits in the toolbox.
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Last Edit: Oct 19, 2018 18:23:58 GMT by Darkspeed
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Id just split down 4 gearshift assemblies of collected from the 3 imps plus a spare. All of them had slightly different amounts of wear and not all in the same spots. I put it down to either lack of lube, Mileage or history of possible replacement parts. It was quite a fun process to go through all the bits, select the best parts and build up one unit for the imp I'm keeping.
But I was not aware of that little nylon ball being available. I like that and shall add to my shopping list!
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Last Edit: Oct 20, 2018 8:34:17 GMT by yoeddynz
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Darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,812
Club RR Member Number: 39
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1970 Ginetta G15 Darkspeed
@darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member 39
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Oct 20, 2018 11:14:56 GMT
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Id just split down 4 gearshift assemblies of collected from the 3 imps plus a spare. All of them had slightly different amounts of wear and not all in the same spots. I put it down to either lack of lube, Mileage or history of possible replacement parts. It was quite a fun process to go through all the bits, select the best parts and build up one unit for the imp I'm keeping. But I was not aware of that little nylon ball being available. I like that and shall add to my shopping list! What! - You have an Imp, you are a member of the Imp Club and you have not downloaded and digested the Aladdin's cave that is the Imp spares parts list - My goodness man, Bob should be your best mate. He is very useful chap to get to know, especially if you are searching for something specific because if he does not have it he is a central point of contact for peeps to ask if he "knows of anyone that might want" - The " Hi Bob I have a shed full of old sport heads and race cams any idea where..." may not happen every week but things like that happen - I cannot believe how many club members ask on the forum where they can get this that or the other when its all in the spares list usually at far less than anywhere else. Can you tell I think Bob is great ![;)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/wink.png)
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Last Edit: Oct 20, 2018 15:24:10 GMT by Darkspeed
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Darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,812
Club RR Member Number: 39
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1970 Ginetta G15 Darkspeed
@darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member 39
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Oct 20, 2018 12:24:12 GMT
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G21 works are continuing - whilst having a bit of lunch - fresh baguette & bacon sarnie - Yorkshire tea in my Minions mug - I have been running a few calculation on a spread sheet for the selection of the rear coilovers
Happy with a chosen spring rate of 225# but just doing some sums on whether a 15" or 16" is the idea length for the coil over.
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Oct 20, 2018 14:08:32 GMT
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re the above repaired manifold just repaired my janspeed off the clan due to rot were the skid plate was on the 180 deg bends was a lot cheeper than £800 quoted for a new system but mr maynard wanted 500 repaired went to a specialist exhaust place in stockport (nr manchester) did the lot for £100 lol
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Oct 23, 2018 12:20:06 GMT
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Dead useful stuff to know ![:)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/smiley.png) I'm expecting a similar situation on the X1/9's gearchange, so very much transferable skills ![:)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/smiley.png)
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