avenga
Part of things
Posts: 182
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Took some measurements for the wheels  I found that the fronts need to be ET+19 which rules out steel wheels so I went for Performance Wheels Challengers. 15X7 ET+19 on the front. Big thanks to Chris from Mag & Turbo Christchurch for organising and ordering the wheels.  And for the back I needed ET-25. The best they had in the cast wheel is ET-9 so I will have to run a 16mm spacer. They do a forged wheel which I could get in ET-25 but they are super expensive so I will probably wait a year or so and then get a set of forged ones made. This is the 15x8 ET-9 that I will be running on the back  I found a photo of a wagon the same wheels as I am getting but mine will look 1000 times cooler because V8 Avenger wagon   Got the bonnet back from painting  Started on the rest of the exhaust  Over the diff  The front muffler and flex joint  Started on a little shield for the brake lines and fuel lines.  |
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Aug 10, 2018 11:42:25 GMT
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Top work, and I like the wheel choice too.
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Aug 11, 2018 12:09:54 GMT
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Dear Lord, what a thing of beauty. Subtle, careful upgrades all over.
I like the cert plate too, what a sensible idea.
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avenga
Part of things
Posts: 182
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Thanks. I tried to upgrade everything while I was at it. I am adding a lot of extra power to it so I want to make sure every part of it is up to the task. Been working on the wiring. Finished the body loom. Went from this  To this  Started on the fuse box and relays  Did new connectors for the digital dash. I used nylon braided sleeving for everything  Also finished the backbone of the engine loom. The rest I will do in the car so I can work out the exact cable length I need.  Link ECU all mounted  Also got some new brighter bulbs now that I have some relays and better wiring. I went for 60/55W Halogen H4 with a P45T base. Should be quite a bit brighter than the old 45/40W incandescent bulbs  |
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Aug 27, 2018 12:32:34 GMT
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beautiful work, man!
JP
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I know its spelled Norman Luxury Yacht, but its pronounced Throat Wobbler Mangrove!
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avenga
Part of things
Posts: 182
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Aug 30, 2018 10:01:19 GMT
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Thanks!! Finished the vacuum tank and idle control solenoid. This will run the MAP sensor and remote brake booster  Created a bracket for the throttle cable  Milled the manifold a bit to get the vacuum hoses on.  Some more wiring. Ignitors and MAP sensor  Continued building the loom  |
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Aug 30, 2018 17:12:59 GMT
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This is looking great, it cant be far off now is it?
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Aug 30, 2018 18:26:34 GMT
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this is a proper build thread. just what I come on here to read , top notch workmanship and properly inspiring
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avenga
Part of things
Posts: 182
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This is looking great, it cant be far off now is it? Hopefully, fingers crossed about a month and a half away from being finished. I have a deadline of mid-october where I want to drive it down to a car show in the South Island of NZ. So I am rushing like mad to get it ready for them. The main hold up is the wheels and the fact that the cert guy is going away for 2 weeks right when it will be ready to be certed  I ordered the wheel 3 weeks ago and they said 4-6 weeks, so hopefully they come next week or the week after. this is a proper build thread. just what I come on here to read , top notch workmanship and properly inspiring Thanks, yeah, it is pretty crazy all the work that has gone in to it. I didn't just want to plonk the engine in, I wanted to upgrade everything while I was at it. |
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avenga
Part of things
Posts: 182
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Re-positioned the handbrake further back. Because we move the engine back a few inches, and the longer gearbox, the handbrake wouldn't fit in it's original position.  Fitted the seat to test the position of the handbrake, feel good.  Continued with the loom. Passenger side plugs. TPS, injectors and ICS  What it will look like with the injectors in and connected.  Routing through the tunnel  Finished the drivers side plugs. Intake temp, water temp, injectors and one of the coils with a suppressor.  Final shot of the valley before putting the manifolds back on  Also found that my brake light switch wasn't working so I took it apart and found it was covered in muck.  Took the little plunger out so I could give it a good clean  Clean as a whistle now.  |
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Sept 3, 2018 22:57:59 GMT
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Thats a very cool project, looking forward to see it finished soon!
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avenga
Part of things
Posts: 182
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Thanks Brought my bonnet pins.  They are the same AeroCatch pins that I use in my 75 Avenger. This will pretty much be the only external mod that you will see when the bonnet is closed.  Finished the front of the engine loom. Cam sensor, Crank sensor, oil temperature, oil pressure coil and suppressor.  Alternator wiring.  Vehicle speed sensor and reverse switch.  Updated my documentation with a few of the extra plugs that I needed to figure out.  Mounted the fuse box  Throttle linkage and valley.  Front of the engine loom. You won't even see this because the radiator hose is right above it.  Then it runs down the side of the engine  Started mounting the battery. I decided to run it in the guard, behind one of the trim panels. That keeps everything out of the way and still gives me full usage of the boot, because wagon.  The engine is all fully wired up now and the engine bay is looking freaking tidy. Almost no visible wiring.  And from the other side  |
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Sept 6, 2018 12:02:02 GMT
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I wish you'd wired my P38, rather than Land Rover... |
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avenga
Part of things
Posts: 182
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Haha. The wiring was really fun. I like cable management and hate seeing wires in the engine bay, it triggers my OCD so I needed to hide all of the wires Big milestone. Fired the engine up for the first time. A few issues. The biggest problem is that the TPS doesn't work, The shaft on the throttle bodies spins the opposite way to the standard 1UZ TPS. Need to do some research to figure out what TPS I can run. In other news. Got the gearbox boot and gear knob. Tried this one but it was a little high for my liking.  Swapped it out for a smaller knob which feels much better (Ladies!! See, a bigger knob doesn't always feel better)  It also has the correct H pattern on the top which is cool because it is different to the 5 speed sierra gearbox in my 75 Avenger and the old standard Hillman 4 speeds, they both have reverse next to first instead of below 5th, so I'm sure I will forget where reverse is on this one if I didn't have the H pattern there.  Also got the dash up and going. It still has the protective screen protector on it so it looks a bit fuzzy. I will take that off once it is all mounted in the car.  |
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That's great work fella. I see a lot of people these days going down the digital dash route, and I wonder why. I'm not a fan of them, mainly because they sort of look a bit lost when you put them in the original dashboard. Plus, I kinda like the look of gauges more. I was wondering why you've gone down the digital route, is it for ease of installation, you prefer the look of a less cluttered dash, or are they just better than gauges?
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1980 Chrysler Avenger V8 Wagonpeteh1969
@peteh1969
Club Retro Rides Member 107
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Sept 8, 2018 10:34:07 GMT
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Is the dash layout customize-able as it looks like it's set up for an Auto box at the moment?
A great stage to get first start up sounds and looks great.
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avenga
Part of things
Posts: 182
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Sept 8, 2018 11:07:14 GMT
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That's great work fella. I see a lot of people these days going down the digital dash route, and I wonder why. I'm not a fan of them, mainly because they sort of look a bit lost when you put them in the original dashboard. Plus, I kinda like the look of gauges more. I was wondering why you've gone down the digital route, is it for ease of installation, you prefer the look of a less cluttered dash, or are they just better than gauges? I went digital for a few reasons. One certainly was the ease of installation. It is all just CANBUS from my ECU so it is just plug and play and everything works. Another was just the amount of modifications I would have to do to get the old style dash going. The vehicle speed sensor in the gearbox is all digital, there is no RPM signal coming from the ECU so I would have had to figure something out with that, and in a twin dizzy motor like the 1UZ then that is pretty hard. And then there is getting all the pressure and temp gauges working in the same range as the old sensors, or trying to replace the dials themselves. Another is also the features I get with the digital dash. The ECU as so much more info available to it, like oil temp, lambda, MAP pressure, intake air temp and timing info. So if I feel like something isn't quite feeling right then I can switch over to one of the engine management pages and see what is up, and then if I spot something isn't quite right then I can pull out the laptop and tweak something. There are other features like the shift light and gear indicator. I am going to a track day in October (Hopefully the car is ready by then) so it will be really handy for that. It also is a datalogger so I can check out how my engine went after each run. So yeah, I figured if I am going to go with the modern engine and electronics package then I may as well embrace it and go digital for the dash also. I quite like it. I like that mix of old and new which sort of sums up what I am going for with this build. From the outside it looks all old school and sleeper, but the moment you open the bonnet or turn the key on then you see all the new school tech that is powering it. Wolf in sheep's clothing type thing. Is the dash layout customize-able as it looks like it's set up for an Auto box at the moment? A great stage to get first start up sounds and looks great. Yes. The dash is customise-able and you can store about 6 or 7 different layouts which you can switch between. So I will have that one which is sort of RPM centric, and then another page which is all just engine stats, another one which has more of an old school 2 dial speed and RPM look. The dash isn't set up for an auto. It works with my 5 speed manual. I just had it in neutral when I took the photo. The dash is smart enough to be able to work out which gear I am in based on my speed and my RPM. You tell the dash what your gear ratios, diff ratio and tire size is, and then it can work out the rest, for example, if I am doing 3000RPM at 100KPH then I would be in 4th gear, and then when I shift up in to 5th the dash will see my RPM drop and show me as in neutral while I am shifting then when I put it back in to gear then it will see that I am now doing 2500RPM at 100KPH so it knows that I am now in 5th gear. Here is a video of the dash in action |
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I'm like pistonpopper and love gauges (the p38 dash bores me-it needs more) but I can see why you've gone the route you have. |
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Most things you are talking about, I have heard about but are mostly going over my head. What I do see and understand that you
like a clean built. It all looks great and well looked after.
I like that a lot.
Awesome car!!
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Sept 9, 2018 11:37:58 GMT
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what a great understanding you have with the wiring, sensors, plugs, dash, ect as it all relates to one another. very informative stuff!....I do like the digital dash features and also the fact that you can choose between layouts. visually, I'm assuming I would like a traditional gauge layout.....but those digital features are hard to argue with...
great job
JP
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I know its spelled Norman Luxury Yacht, but its pronounced Throat Wobbler Mangrove!
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