avenga
Part of things
Posts: 182
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Sept 9, 2018 12:42:24 GMT
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Thanks. It was quite daunting when you start with this  And this  But it was actually quite fun, it's all just about being super methodical, studying the wiring diagram of the body loom, figuring out how to integrate the 2 looms. I was sort of forced in to doing a 100% new engine loom because something really odd happened to the donor engine before I brought it. Pretty much every connector was so brittle that they just crumbled in your hands when you took them off. And then with the body loom, I had to get rid of all of the engine and dash wiring, so I just went through the wiring diagrams and removed anything that wasn't needed, which was about half the loom. The Avenger loom is a bit weird, they use the same loom for all models, so if you have a base model like both of my Avengers are then you have a hell of a lot of wires that aren't connected up to anything. For example it has connectors for headlight wipers and washers, which weren't even available on any model of Avenger in NZ, but they still have all the wiring and connectors there. I did a ton of little wiring diagrams and pinouts of all of the connectors I added. The cool thing about running the Link ECU is that I have a ton of expandability so if I wanted to go OTT then I could add other sensors for things like fuel pressure, exhaust temp and then just display them on the dash. At the moment I have all the sensors that I would need for just a normal road car but it is still pretty awesome what the ECU is capable of. The cool thing about the dash is that it is only one tiny 4 pin cable that it uses to get all the info off the ECU, you can see the connector in the above photo, they look like this  Once I have everything up and running I will do a video of the dash in action |
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avenga
Part of things
Posts: 182
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Sept 12, 2018 9:37:22 GMT
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Configured the turn signals and headlights on the dash Made a small sub loom that connects up to the old instrument cluster wiring.  The old dash only had one turn signal indicator so that made the wiring for that easy, the high beams were also easy. I had to do a little logic in the dash to get the low beam working the way I wanted it to, for the low beam I had to use the panel illumination which meant the little low beam light would stay on when I went to high beams. The dash lets you use If.. Then.. Else statments so I set it to use "If Low Beam = 12V and High Beam = 0V then turn on the light If else turn off the light" and for the high beam I just said "If High Beam = 12V then on Else off" so that way when there is 12V to the low beams then the low beam indicator will come on, but if there is 12V to both high and low beam then it will turn off the low beam light and turn on the high beam light. The dash really powerful like that. You can use conditional statements for any of the alarms or warning lights. Got some temporary wheels so I can get it on the trailer to get it dyno'd etc. I am still waiting on the proper wheels to arrive from Aussie. Hopefully they arrive soon. These are on the front with a 30mm spacer  And the back, again with a 30mm spacer  And it sitting down on the ground. I am still waiting on another set of spacers for the front wheels so I still have the front sitting on the dollies we made.  Finished off the radiator, popped the trumpets back on, and added the sealing strip around the top of the air cleaner. It's starting to look real cool now.  Just enough room for the radiator hoses.  Installed the bonnet pins.  They are a little higher up than I would have liked but I didn't want to cut in to the supports anymore than I already have in the middle of the bonnet. My other Avenger had a fibreglass bonnet so it's a bit easier to place the pins where you want them. I have to mould for the bonnet so I might make a fibreglass one further down the track, or maybe paint the bonnet pins body colour.   |
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Sept 12, 2018 10:03:33 GMT
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That dash is a nice tool. Neat wiring too.
Engine bay looks superb; hoses etc. look "factory" for want of a better word.
Agree with your idea of painting the pins/latches - keep it as stealthy as possible.
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avenga
Part of things
Posts: 182
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Sept 15, 2018 5:42:17 GMT
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Thanks. I have had a few people tell me that the engine looks factory in there. It's just such a good fit, and the wires and hoses are tucked away where they should be. She drives!! First drive around the yard. Got the engine running really nice for the basic tune. Found I had to reverse the polarity of the wires for the cam trigger and crank trigger. With both of them wired the "Correct" way according to the documentation put me about 40 degrees retarded, I checked the trigger scope and they were clearly around the wrong way, flipping the cam got me to about 15 degrees advanced, then flipping both of them got the timing bang on. Did some other stuff like set up the idle control solenoid. Here is a little rev  I have it booked in at the dyno on Thursday!!! Got the checklist back from the certifier. Not a very long list. Most of it is just little things like lock nuts, and things we haven't got like the wheels and we can't test the brakes yet.   Got the reverse lights going. Which is pretty awesome because it is my first Avenger with working reverse lights. Here in NZ the reverse lights were only hooked up on the top of the line models. As all of my Avengers have been base models then they haven't had reverse lights, they have all the wiring in the loom for them but they just don't put in the switch or bulb holders.  Got it down on it's temporary wheels, we had to put some smaller rubber on the front so it is even lower at the front and jacked up at the rear so it has that drag car rake, it will look more normal with the final wheels on when they get here.  Also finished the battery brackets.  |
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Sept 15, 2018 7:32:22 GMT
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Just read this from start to finish, great build! Especially love the clean looking engine bay, top work!
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Sept 15, 2018 10:50:22 GMT
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Nothing too challenging to do to get the certification then, that must be nice to see!
Sorry if i'm being thick but with the airbox sealed to the bulkhead via the rubber seals, unless the engine is solid mounted won't that joint open or or move (a lot) once the engine is under load/ over run conditions?
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avenga
Part of things
Posts: 182
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Sept 15, 2018 11:25:02 GMT
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Just read this from start to finish, great build! Especially love the clean looking engine bay, top work! Thanks. I'm really please with how clean I could do the engine bay. I spent quite a while planning all my cable routing so you can't see anything. Nothing too challenging to do to get the certification then, that must be nice to see! Sorry if i'm being thick but with the airbox sealed to the bulkhead via the rubber seals, unless the engine is solid mounted won't that joint open or or move (a lot) once the engine is under load/ over run conditions? Yeah. Only little things on the cert sheet, mostly just stuff that we overlooked or don't have yet, like the wheels. The seal should be fine, we have quite a lot of squish in the rubber seals and the engine doesn't move that much. They are pretty common on cowl hoods etc.   When I have it all up and running I will stick my gopro and some lights under the bonnet and just check what it is sealing like. |
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avenga
Part of things
Posts: 182
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Sept 19, 2018 10:04:06 GMT
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Made a little custom startup screen for my dashboard. Looks pretty sweet. Here is a little video, along with some of the screens I have set up, I still need to name some of the things better Here is a shot of the startup screen  After running the engine for a while I noticed that the vacuum line was collapsing so I have replaced that.   And while I had the vacuum manifold out I figured I would take a photo of it.  |
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avenga
Part of things
Posts: 182
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Sept 20, 2018 9:36:11 GMT
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Big day today!! Dyno day!!! Popped the doors back on yesterday.  Loaded up the trailer last night.  Early morning start and off to the dyno!!  Engine is all looking really sweet for the dyno runs.  Getting the car all ready for the dyno.  Even with all the dyno wires hooked up the engine bay looks tidy as.  Here is a video of a power run. My god it is loud, and not from the exhaust, it is all induction noise, sound so sweet. Also did a run with the bonnet down to make sure the air cleaner setup with the bonnet closed doesn't suffocate the engine, pretty much no difference with the bonnet closed. Here are some power graphs. 209 KW engine power and 277 lbft engine torque. Look at how smooth that power curve is  And the axle torque and power  After I got back from the dyno, I finished off the rest of the dynamat.  And installed the back carpets. They still fit but the front won't because of the bigger transmission tunnel.  |
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Sept 20, 2018 10:18:14 GMT
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That's looking pretty sweet!
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Sept 20, 2018 10:35:41 GMT
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just getting my head round imperial and metric combination on same dyno  sound immense ! |
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Sept 20, 2018 11:54:49 GMT
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what is 209Kw in HP?
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Sept 20, 2018 12:12:24 GMT
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280 if my converter site is to be believed. Got a problem at the moment in building a simulator. The Japanese train suppliers go for acceleration in m/s/s. All well and good. My calculator that gives me an end-to-end run time works in Kilo-newtons, which I can play with until I get the required acceleration rate. The biggie, which models the entire line, works in Kilowatts for train power. So one is force, the other is power and I can find no direct relationship. It's like asking, "How do I convert tea mugs to watches?" Getting there slowly by aligning run times. I blame Napoleon. We were doing okay until he decided to invent a whole new system based on the distance between his nose and the walls of Moscow. Love that bay, though. |
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Last Edit: Sept 20, 2018 12:13:18 GMT by georgeb
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Sept 20, 2018 13:23:41 GMT
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fantastic work...keep posting, Ill keep learning!  JP |
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I know its spelled Norman Luxury Yacht, but its pronounced Throat Wobbler Mangrove!
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avenga
Part of things
Posts: 182
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Sept 20, 2018 22:25:05 GMT
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It sounds even better in person. The induction was so loud that my ear muffs were doing nothing. It won't be as bad when it is out in the open, the dyno room is really tiny. 280 if my converter site is to be believed. It's like asking, "How do I convert tea mugs to watches?" It's 2.653 tea mugs per watch, then divide by 6 fantastic work...keep posting, Ill keep learning! JP Thanks. I have been playing around with other trick stuff, like I got my gear indicator going so it will tell me what gear I'm in. Also got the shift lights going. It has 10 LEDS that you can set the colour of and at what RPM they come on at. At the moment I am thinking I will have the first light come on at 4,800 RPM and then sweep through the lights and then the final light will be at 6,300 RPM, after that they will all start flashing at me. They are RGB so I can set the colours to what ever I want. I am red/green colourblind so the default green to yellow to red doesn't work for me. I am thinking maybe yellow to red to blue. Or maybe something like this colour scheme. It may look a bit garish to non-colourblind people but I'm going to me the one driving it so I need to be able to differentiate the colours.  |
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Sept 21, 2018 8:26:39 GMT
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i'm not au fait with the 1UZ, but does it have 8 trumpets as standard enclosed in a plenum and you have liberated them with a shaker style hood, or have you fitted ITB's ?
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avenga
Part of things
Posts: 182
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Sept 21, 2018 10:38:15 GMT
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I have fitted ITBs The 1uz normally only comes with a single throttle body and a pretty crappy two part plenum Apparently the lower manifold is quite restrictive  This is what they usually look like with the throttle body off to the side and a second sub throttle for traction control, which I don’t need  The ITB kit I’m using is made by OBX Racing in the states. It is a custom manifold and then the throttle bodies are new from a 4AGE 20v silver top |
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Sept 21, 2018 11:57:48 GMT
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It all looks great! even better now its running, you must be well chuffed!
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avenga
Part of things
Posts: 182
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Sept 21, 2018 13:23:31 GMT
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I take it you have seen this?
I hadn't seen that. It is quite interesting watching them fit the V8. The Fairlane is a pretty big car but they sort of had the opposite problem that I had. There engine bay was pretty narrow and long, where I had plenty of width but I had to cut the firewall and move everything back a few inches and then it only just barely fits. 1UZ's love turbos. I just fully didn't have the room for one in my engine bay, as you can see from the photos of my engine bay, there isn't much wasted space up there. Still, I really happy with the power and I don't think I need more, I might do heads, cams and headers later which should get me more. They were getting 451HP (336KW) versus my 280HP (209KW) Here is a really good guide to what sort of power you expect www.themotorhood.com/themotorhood/2017/9/6/tuning-guide-how-to-modify-your-1uz-feI have pretty much done their Stage 1 mods, plus the ITB's. There stage 2 would be where I go next, which would be heads and cams, which would get me around another 100HP (70KW) which is where I would stop. There stage 3 is super charged and crazy. Having said that then I'm not really sure if I even want to go up to the stage 2 type mods. There is there stage 1 mods, the lower line is the stock motor and the top is there stage 1  Compare that to mine then I don't have the high end drop off and I pushed both my max power and torque up by about 500RPM. The main thing to note is how smooth the power curve is in both of them. It is just smooth constant power. When you start modding the 1UZ more then you really kill the low end, which as a street car then I will be using the most. Like this is the stage 2  up until about 3,500 then my engine is making quite a lot more power, it's all just top end, and the car is already fast enough and scary enough that you never get that high in revs. I took it for a drive today and did a little pull from 1500RPM @ 50kph in 5th and it still pulled really well because it has so much down low torque. Going to the stage 3 with a turbo or supercharger just makes it even worse for the road. Like look at their dyno run, no power until 4,500, and then all the horsepowers at once, that must be brutal when that kicks in.  It all looks great! even better now its running, you must be well chuffed! Oh yeah. I am really chuffed. I took it for a quick drive down the road today and it is stupid fast. I don't want to drive it until I get the proper wheels and get it all certed because it was pretty sketchy on those snow tyres. It has so much torque that you can just chuck it straight in to 5th gear and forget about the gears, but when she wants to move she has some serious power. I was grinning ear to ear. Really good to finally be able to drive it. |
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