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1980 Chrysler Avenger V8 Wagonpeteh1969
@peteh1969
Club Retro Rides Member 107
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The Silver and Black looks nicer than the Black and Silver, I was wrong.
The custom dose not look as good it's lost it's style, like putting Kyle in Blue Denim Hot Pants rather than the Gold ones it just would not be right.
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Jul 19, 2018 12:31:28 GMT
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like putting Kyle in Blue Denim Hot Pants rather than the Gold ones it just would not be right. You say that but I wouldn't be too upset to have Kylie in denim hot pants, I mean that's just the wrapper, and I'd be taking that off anyway lol.
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Jul 19, 2018 12:48:19 GMT
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Crazy & custom is best.
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Jul 19, 2018 19:56:23 GMT
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this is just amazing. literally creating THE ultimate wagon in my books
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avenga
Part of things
Posts: 182
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Thanks The underside is all sealed and painted. Drivers side front wheel Back end Underside and new chassis rails Passengers side front wheel
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avenga
Part of things
Posts: 182
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Jul 26, 2018 10:36:29 GMT
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The car is all done at the panel beaters. Finished painting the last bit, behind the headlights and radiator. Engine is back in Started work on the front hubs And started work on the Dynamat
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Jul 26, 2018 17:50:20 GMT
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You're doing such a nice, thorough job on this. Its going to be such a sorted car- I love it.
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Jul 26, 2018 18:33:09 GMT
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Yeah, thats looking pretty nice, I like the five stud hubs, whay the upggrade from four? Is it for bigger better brakes?
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avenga
Part of things
Posts: 182
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Thanks. For better and bigger brakes, and also to get past certification. Here in New Zealand we have really strict rules about modification and engine swaps. So once you do an engine swap, or pretty much anything major to your car then you need to get a Low Volume Vehicle certificate, basically saying that it is like a one off custom. www.lvvta.org.nz/In the case of the hubs, it falls under this rule about if you increase the weight of the engine. The 1UZ is about 60KG heavier than the 1600 Avenger engine so this rule applies. (d) the wheel hub assembly’s load capability increased by having either: (i) the hub assembly replaced with one which has an increased number of studs, or pitch circle diameter; or (ii) the original wheel studs replaced by studs of a diameter equivalent to a production vehicle that has a similar engine weight and number of wheel studs. And all of the cars that came with the 1UZ had 5x114.3 so it means that I need to go up to that stud pattern. The cert process is going to be hard, that is why we are being so thorough and over engineering everything. To give you some idea of how much you need to get certed, this is my other Avenger. It looks pretty standard but here is the cert plate with everything I needed to get certed So the Fibreglass boot, bonnet and wheel arches, the bonnet pins, the gearbox cross member, adjustable suspension, new lower arms, lowered suspension, upgraded front brakes and master cylinder, bigger wheels, the ford 5 speed, and upgrading from 1300 to 1500 all needed to be certified. The wagon used to have a cert plate (You can see it in this picture) but it only covered the lowered suspension and wheels
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steveg
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,586
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It's really interesting to see what other countries rules are for modified vehicles. Your rules seem a bit clearer and I quite like the cert plate. Whats it like getting modified cars insured ? I've been watching Mighty Car Mods 240 build and they were arranging insurance. It seemed relatively straight forward compared with what goes on in the UK. The process here would involved a sit down and stiff drink after finding out the cost and then hours of ringing round trying to find someone else who would provide cover at a sensible cost.
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avenga
Part of things
Posts: 182
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Yeah, our rules are pretty black and white, and the cert plate makes it really easy when you go for your Warrant of Fitness (Like a safety check you need to get done ever 6 month for pre-2000 cars or every year for modern cars) So they can tell it's all legit. And also if you get pulled over by the cops, they like to pull over illegally lowered or modified cars, so you can show them the cert plate and they are all happy.
I have my insurance with a company who specialise in classic cars so they are totally sweet with modification. I rung them before I started and the conversation went pretty much like this.
Me: Hey, I'm going to put a V8 in my Avenger, is that all good with you guys. Insurance company: Yeah, that's sweet as, just let us know when you have it finished. Me: Chur Bro
Was pretty much the same when I modified my other Avenger, and the same when I wanted to do some track days in the other Avenger. They didn't increase the cost at all both times. They just base it on the agreed value, so if I insure both Avengers for the same value then it will cost the same for the 1500cc one and the 4L V8 one. Same with my Charger. They know us classic/retro car guys look after our cars more then normal people and that we ain't going to be doing stupid stuff in our cars. Also the cert process helps because they know that if it has been certed then it has been done properly.
And also classic car insurance is really cheap over here.
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Jul 27, 2018 12:05:23 GMT
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Your rules are strict, but they do ensure a safe car. If I had one of those plates on mine it would need to be the size of the roof!!! How would that work in your country where just about everything is a one off?
Insurance here is about the same for hot rods, agreed value and very low premiums.
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avenga
Part of things
Posts: 182
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Jul 27, 2018 14:06:27 GMT
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Hotrods like yours are handled a bit differently. I would say your car would pretty much be treated as a scratch built car. It is done via the NZHRA (New Zealand Hot Rod Association) And they have a big manual of rules so you can get it certed through the LVV. hotrod.org.nz/NZ-Car-Construction-Manual.phpI don't know too much about the hot rod rules because I have only modified 70's cars but I know they are more flexible. Stuff like Z frames and all that sort of stuff is okay for hot rods but not for modern cars I think. You would still have the same cert plate but they don't need to go in to gory details. You might even need an authority card if you do stuff like removing the fenders etc
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Jul 27, 2018 14:34:06 GMT
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Ah, ok.
I've just had to pass a similar test here - BIVA - which is basic individual vehicle approval. Not quite as stringent as your as we don't require welding inspections etc.
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avenga
Part of things
Posts: 182
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Started work on the loom. Just laying it out at the moment then once I have everything finalised I will wrap it. Made a little bracket for the cable grommet. Mounted the ECU mounting plate Put the old body loom back in to see how it all fits. Again, when I have everything finalised then I will wrap everything up. Finished off the fuel tank Added in a new fuel pickup Ran the fuel lines. For certification you need to run the lines 150mm away from the drive shaft. Made some quick spacers for the rotors so we could figure out what hat to buy. Brought all of the brake gear. Wilwood 4 pot calipers and the hat for the hub. Also brought the rotor but I haven't unboxed it yet
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Beautiful build quality - thanks for posting!
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1968 Mini MkII, 1968 VW T1, 1967 VW T1, 1974 VW T1, 1974 VW T1 1303, 1975 Mini 1000 auto, 1979 Chevette, 1981 Cortina, 1978 Mini 1000 1981 Mini City, 1981 Mini van, 1974 Mini Clubman, 1982 Metro City, 1987 Escort, 1989 Lancia Y10, 1989 Cavalier, 1990 Sierra, 1990 Renault 19, 1993 Nova, 1990 Citroen BX, 1994 Ford Scorpio, 1990 Renault Clio, 2004 Citroen C3, 2006 Citroen C2, 2004 Citroen C4, 2013 Citroen DS5. 2017 DS3 130 Plenty of other scrappers!
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avenga
Part of things
Posts: 182
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1980 Chrysler Avenger V8 Wagonpeteh1969
@peteh1969
Club Retro Rides Member 107
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Great progress.
I see you have placed the air box on the engine, what will you be fitting to the rear shaped part of the air box to protect the paint from engine movement/vibration?
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avenga
Part of things
Posts: 182
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I'll be using a rubber/foam sealing strip, something like this. Might also run some 3M clear protective film
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Last Edit: Aug 4, 2018 13:23:03 GMT by avenga
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