fatlad
Part of things
Posts: 65
|
|
Nov 26, 2017 22:42:14 GMT
|
|
Hi, ive recently bought a 2nd hand 4 post lift to fit in my garage. Its an old tecalemit spacemaster 3.
I've read varying views on fitting regarding concrete specs and depths and wondered if anyone had any advice.
My initial thought is to dig 4 holes down to clay and fill with concrete? Obviously level in respect to each other.
The other thing I could do with so help with is; the space I have to fit it is 5m long and the lift footprint is 4.1m do I just set it in the middle or is it worth offsetting it one way or the other?
Any help or advice greatly received!
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Nov 26, 2017 23:47:26 GMT
|
|
You would be better to lay a full length concrete slab to bolt the lift down to rather than just 4 concrete pads has depending on their size & depth how are they going to remain stable without point loading the area - whereby a full slab base spreads the load over it's total area - has for position you may need to think about clearance depending on the height of your ceiling / roof but it is good to have offset sometimes to enable you let the vehicle overhang the front / rear has this can make vehicle access easier on occasions without the ramp being in the way.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Nov 26, 2017 23:49:32 GMT
|
|
Hi, You will need to be able to walk round the whole lift with out shuffling sideways past the posts because at some point you will be carrying something bulky. You can't rely on walking under the raised lift because it won't always be up in the air, it may be only part way up when you're working on the brakes for example. You will need a corridor of at least 1 Meter all the way round to make it comfortable to work with.
Colin
|
| |
|
|
fad
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,781
|
|
|
|
You would be better to lay a full length concrete slab to bolt the lift down to rather than just 4 concrete pads has depending on their size & depth how are they going to remain stable without point loading the area - whereby a full slab base spreads the load over it's total area - has for position you may need to think about clearance depending on the height of your ceiling / roof but it is good to have offset sometimes to enable you let the vehicle overhang the front / rear has this can make vehicle access easier on occasions without the ramp being in the way. This. You can't rely on four pads unless you are really, REALLY sure of the conditions beneath. |
| |
|
|
fatlad
Part of things
Posts: 65
|
|
Nov 27, 2017 10:05:28 GMT
|
|
Cheers for the replys certainly makes sense. Should be ok for space down the sides of the lift.
Any ideas on what type/depth of concrete I should use? Reinforced?
Cheers
|
| |
|
|
alecf
Part of things
Posts: 424 
|
|
Nov 27, 2017 12:13:34 GMT
|
|
when I fitted my 2 post the through bolts were 180mm long so I would be thinking at least 200mm thick. and steel reinforcing mesh
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Nov 27, 2017 14:57:56 GMT
|
|
Personally, I would err with caution and go down 300mm, then use a good 5:1 concrete mesh using A393 grade. Don't scrimp with A142, that is really only for shed bases.
|
| |
96 E320 W210 Wafter - on 18" split Mono's - Sold :-(
10 Kia Ceed Sportwagon - Our new daily
03 Import Forester STi - Sold
98 W140 CL500 AMG - Brutal weekend bruiser! Sold :-(
99 E240 S210 Barge - Now sold
02 Accord 2.0SE - wife's old daily - gone in PX
88 P100 2.9efi Custom - Sold
|
|
fad
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,781
|
|
Nov 27, 2017 17:57:45 GMT
|
Personally, I would err with caution and go down 300mm, then use a good 5:1 concrete mesh using A393 grade. Don't scrimp with A142, that is really only for shed bases. I'd go down 350mm. Just because I do things 16.5% plus change better than him. :-p lol |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Nov 27, 2017 19:46:13 GMT
|
|
I have a 2 post lift on a 6" thick slab of 35nm concrete with steel mesh. Beneath the slab I have 100mm of celotex insulation. It's been up 2 years and have had no problems.
|
| |
Last Edit: Nov 27, 2017 19:46:46 GMT by jonsey
|
|
fatlad
Part of things
Posts: 65
|
|
Nov 27, 2017 21:54:29 GMT
|
|
Spot on thank you very much for the replies. Think I'll go with a 6" reinforced slab then! Had a measure up tonight and the area is approx 15' square. Concrete calculator reckons that's around 3.5m2 with a bit spare. Any ideas what sort of money that amount of concrete would be from a ready mix wagon? Will do ground works at myself. Cheers
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Nov 27, 2017 23:07:17 GMT
|
I have a 2 post lift on a 6" thick slab of 35nm concrete with steel mesh. Beneath the slab I have 100mm of celotex insulation. It's been up 2 years and have had no problems. That doesn't make sense, you do not want compressible material under a load bearing area of the concrete. By all means insulate but not under where you expect to place high spot loads. |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Celotex should only compress 1mm maximum. The proof as they say is in the pudding. I keep the rally car up at full height all year round for security and there's been no movement or cracks. It's been up there 2 years. It only comes off when something else goes on.
|
| |
|
|
fad
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,781
|
|
|
|
|
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Celotex should only compress 1mm maximum. The proof as they say is in the pudding. I keep the rally car up at full height all year round for security and there's been no movement or cracks. It's been up there 2 years. It only comes off when something else goes on. From the website Question 10 – Can Celotex be used in basement floors? Yes. Providing that the Celotex is positioned to the dry side of the tanking and is not bearing the weight of the foundations. Yours is taking a LOT more spot load than a buildings foundations We put RSJ's in at work all the time you NEVER have insulation supporting a padstone. |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
It's not holding the weight of a house though. Like I say the proof is in the pudding. No movement, no cracks. I don't wish to be involved in an argument. The OP can do as he wishes. I'm only saying what I've done. Practice not theory
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Nov 28, 2017 10:22:46 GMT
|
|
Fair enough, if someone wants to do the same I would strongly suggest getting some calculations done by a structural engineer for peace of mind before starting the installation.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Nov 28, 2017 11:27:08 GMT
|
|
Totally agree with you to cover yourself I had to pay a SE to do calcs on the building as it was to big a space not to have large pillars to strengthen against wind loads as there is also a large attic over 2/3 of it. I now have 9 x 7" RSJ's bolted to the wall, roof trusses and the above mentioned floor. In fact there's so much steel I'm not sure the walls even need to be there 😄. The SE man didn't have any concerns about the lift due to the type of floor, Building Regs have shown no concern either (but they probably couldn't care less) and the company I bought the lift off were fine with it as well.
But the SE man will probably double everything up to protect his liability
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Nov 28, 2017 17:27:26 GMT
|
|
I might have the wrong end of the stick but aren't 4 post ramps basically free standing units with the legs bolted down for stability? also the mass of the vehicle is spread over 4 pads which must make a difference, I know 2 post ramps are a different ball game as the 2 supports do a lot more work?
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Nov 28, 2017 18:10:50 GMT
|
I might have the wrong end of the stick but aren't 4 post ramps basically free standing units with the legs bolted down for stability? also the mass of the vehicle is spread over 4 pads which must make a difference, I know 2 post ramps are a different ball game as the 2 supports do a lot more work? That's what I thought. As for mesh or rebar in the concrete would a concrete drill bit drill through that? |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Nov 28, 2017 18:19:49 GMT
|
|
The pads on a 4 post lift are tiny compared to the pads on a 2 post lift. There are I think 10 bolts holding down each post on my lift and only 1 contacted the mesh and burnt the drill bit out. I drilled the others then hit that one again last and had no issue.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
