moglite
Part of things
Posts: 815
Club RR Member Number: 144
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Aug 28, 2018 14:38:54 GMT
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I need some rear shocks. I picked up a 2nd hand telescopic conversion kit made originally by Koni I believe for MGBs The shocks themselves are shot So I need to find some replacement shocks, but I'm struggling to find a resource that lists shocks by dimension. Closed length is 265mm Open length is 415mm They need to fit on "pins" that are 16mm in diameter I'm not looking for something expensive/racy, but I guess it were handy if they were adjustable, as I've no idea on weight/valving. Can anybody suggest a starting point ?
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1967 Morris Oxford Traveller 1979 Toyota LandCruiser BJ40 1993 Daimler Double Six 2007 Volvo XC70 2.4D
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Aug 28, 2018 16:49:09 GMT
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whats the outside diamater of the the rubbers (or internal diameter of the eyelet on the standard shocks)
i had a bang on match with 88" series 3 land rover fronts, but ff'd up as they use a 19mm pin
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Last Edit: Aug 28, 2018 20:49:36 GMT by darrenh
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moglite
Part of things
Posts: 815
Club RR Member Number: 144
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Aug 28, 2018 19:04:02 GMT
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The rubbers on the current shocks are 25mm O/D set up to go onto 16mm horizontal pins The kit looks pretty similar to this
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1967 Morris Oxford Traveller 1979 Toyota LandCruiser BJ40 1993 Daimler Double Six 2007 Volvo XC70 2.4D
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eternaloptimist
Posted a lot
Too many projects, not enough time or space...
Posts: 2,578
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Aug 28, 2018 19:47:14 GMT
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XC70, VW split screen crew cab, Standard Ten
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moglite
Part of things
Posts: 815
Club RR Member Number: 144
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Aug 28, 2018 20:46:04 GMT
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Ohh nice - some of the VW stuff has definite scope. Some good options for shorter items for lowered right height too - which might be useful.
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1967 Morris Oxford Traveller 1979 Toyota LandCruiser BJ40 1993 Daimler Double Six 2007 Volvo XC70 2.4D
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moglite
Part of things
Posts: 815
Club RR Member Number: 144
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Sept 8, 2018 17:15:17 GMT
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So I decided on a set of Land Rover S3 shocks, as recommended by darrenh. The lengths are perfect. But I've got 16mm pins, and they fit on 19mm, but a length of suitable tube for a sleeve has just turned up. As the shocks were Β£25 delivered - the price was right. Glad I bought them now, as they are quite butch, and I needed to make sure there is space for the top links. I've used the u-bolts from the old axle to get stuff in roughly the right place Today's job was to get some of the mounts for the top links made and in place. Made some temporary top links, as I didn't want to be welding near rubber bushes. Spent ages lying on my back trying to get them even/level/aligned before tacking them into place Another angle That should give the dimensions I need to finish off the top links. Thanks for looking
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Last Edit: Sept 8, 2018 17:16:38 GMT by moglite
1967 Morris Oxford Traveller 1979 Toyota LandCruiser BJ40 1993 Daimler Double Six 2007 Volvo XC70 2.4D
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So I decided on a set of Land Rover S3 shocks, as recommended by darrenh. The lengths are perfect.Β But I've got 16mm pins, and they fit on 19mm I thought I edited that quick enough after posting! That's why I said I ffffd up because they are 19mm pin. I thought they were 16 but was looking at Series 1 landy (but then damper lengths are wrong) But your tube sleeve idea sounds great solution
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Sept 9, 2018 11:26:41 GMT
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I think you may of made the brackets to tall, my thinking is this with them being tall the leverage exerted on them is greater than they can coupe with if they were shorter they will be stronger and deal with the force that will be put on them as you drive the car forward and won't snap off.
The closer to the axle tube the stronger they will be.
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moglite
Part of things
Posts: 815
Club RR Member Number: 144
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Sept 9, 2018 12:42:13 GMT
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I think you may of made the brackets to tall, my thinking is this with them being tall the leverage exerted on them is greater than they can coupe with if they were shorter they will be stronger and deal with the force that will be put on them as you drive the car forward and won't snap off. The closer to the axle tube the stronger they will be. I hear you, but from what I remember about my 4-link design from my 4x4 days, you also have to have a good amount of separation between top and bottom links. I was planning to box them in, when I do the final welding. That should give them a lot of strength.
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1967 Morris Oxford Traveller 1979 Toyota LandCruiser BJ40 1993 Daimler Double Six 2007 Volvo XC70 2.4D
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moglite
Part of things
Posts: 815
Club RR Member Number: 144
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Sept 11, 2018 20:34:00 GMT
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With the position of the axle top links established, time to move onto the chassis end The chassis is re-enforced at the factory to take the lever arm shocks. The MGB conversions use these mounts to hold a coilover shock, and the top links, so I'm going to do something similar. The top shock mounts are in single shear, so I cut up some 10mm plate, and drilled holes for the new pins, and welded them front and back, With the welder on max - they aren't going anywhere. My design technique was lying on my back with a bunch of magnets and seeing what looks right Then it cut up some more heavy steel and weld it all together - damn it got hot Yep happy with that. Time to bolt it up for a sanity check. I think that has gone to plan. It doesn't look that complicated now it is finished, but it was quite a head scratcher at the time. With all the that head scratching and the joy of cutting up the heavy plate, I've probably got 15 hours in that mount. Just need to make another the same now !!
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Last Edit: Sept 11, 2018 20:34:53 GMT by moglite
1967 Morris Oxford Traveller 1979 Toyota LandCruiser BJ40 1993 Daimler Double Six 2007 Volvo XC70 2.4D
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moglite
Part of things
Posts: 815
Club RR Member Number: 144
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Sept 14, 2018 20:28:54 GMT
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and another one has come along It was still almost 200C 5 mins after finishing the welding, so I've left it to cool before a quick rub over with the flap disc. Next step is to bolt them up, and I can then cut the top links to size, before starting on the bottom links.
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1967 Morris Oxford Traveller 1979 Toyota LandCruiser BJ40 1993 Daimler Double Six 2007 Volvo XC70 2.4D
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Sept 14, 2018 20:47:10 GMT
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Looks like a nice bit of welding, good and strong!
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Sept 14, 2018 21:41:04 GMT
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nice job might be worth welding them to your chassis legs once its all finalised. as it is i think the plate will work loose due to the bending moment on them, plus chassis rail not having Z plates or crush tubes where you have bolted through
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moglite
Part of things
Posts: 815
Club RR Member Number: 144
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Sept 14, 2018 22:25:05 GMT
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nice job might be worth welding them to your chassis legs once its all finalised. as it is i think the plate will work loose due to the bending moment on them, plus chassis rail not having Z plates or crush tubes where you have bolted through I can definitely add some weld if necessary down the line. I think the chassis mounts do have crush tubes at that point, so I'm planning on getting some quality fine pitch bolts and murdering them up. I'd like to keep the mods to the shell reversible if at all possible, just in case it I change my mind, or something doesn't work out, but we'll see
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1967 Morris Oxford Traveller 1979 Toyota LandCruiser BJ40 1993 Daimler Double Six 2007 Volvo XC70 2.4D
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moglite
Part of things
Posts: 815
Club RR Member Number: 144
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Sept 22, 2018 14:14:51 GMT
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Time for the bottom link mounts, which are shared with the lower shock mounts. So I took a couple of days off of work, and this is the result of the first day a full 10-6 shift. Fab work takes time - lots of time. Day 1
Take the old MGB telescopic shock conversion, and add some lovely laser-cut 4mm steel Chop and change stuff around an little, and then duplicate, and I ended up with this. Those were then positioned a 1000 times before being tack welded to the axle, you'll see that later. But now I had all my link mounts in place, so I was able to cut the link tubes to length and add the sleeves for the bushes. I used a coping calculator found on the interwebs, put in you tube sizes, and it gives a template to wrap around the tube to act as a cutting guide. It works nicely Weld them up and then grind them down gently (the tube is on 1.5mm wall) and I ended up with these. Day is to bolt it all up and see if it works......
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1967 Morris Oxford Traveller 1979 Toyota LandCruiser BJ40 1993 Daimler Double Six 2007 Volvo XC70 2.4D
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Sept 22, 2018 14:25:45 GMT
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Pity your QC bloke was fast asleep when you altered your Lasercutting drawings .....πππ
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moglite
Part of things
Posts: 815
Club RR Member Number: 144
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Sept 22, 2018 14:44:06 GMT
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Day 2 This is everything in place, with the suspension on full droop, limited by the length of the shocks. The air-springs won't allow that much travel. So I should get some kind of limit device, but I'm not sure I can be bothered. Jack the axle up a little - this is the max droop allowed by the air-spring travel Now to start jacking up one side, to see if/where it binds. This is the limit of my side-side travel. The bushes on the top of the axle are binding. I come from a 4x4 background where axle articulation is everything, but for this cruiser, I think it is going to be fine. The top mounts will be boxed and triangulated at the final welding stage. This design of 4-link is pretty severely compromised by the short top links causing the bush to bind, I'm not willing to butcher the shell and go through a BIVA, so I'm fine with this. What I was surprised by was how the prop touches on the prop tunnel. A rework of that area is not on the cards, I'll see if I can gain a few mm by putting a scissor jack there, maybe it will want to stretch it a little ?? Failing that I'll look at a prop with a narrower tube if it is a problem in the real world. Now it is starting to get interesting, how far can I jack it up before A) The shocks bottom out
B) The air spring reaches its internal bumpstop
The shock still has 30mm of travel I've allowed a little space in there for the platform for the spring, which is still a work in progress.
I'm not sure if animations work here - but lets try.....
Wrapping up, time to put on a wheel and see what the end result will look like
Maximum ride height - which is maybe a little over stock - not sure
But down in the weeds
Pretty happy with that, there is clearance everywhere, but less than 1cm in places, so I couldn't really of gone any lower without doing a lot of cutting.
Taking a bit of a break now, as the end of Day 2 saw me in Southampton eye hospital with a chip of metal in my eye
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Last Edit: Sept 22, 2018 14:48:21 GMT by moglite
1967 Morris Oxford Traveller 1979 Toyota LandCruiser BJ40 1993 Daimler Double Six 2007 Volvo XC70 2.4D
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eternaloptimist
Posted a lot
Too many projects, not enough time or space...
Posts: 2,578
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Sept 22, 2018 15:07:54 GMT
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Ouch, thatβs got to smart. Car is looking good. Love the rims. .
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XC70, VW split screen crew cab, Standard Ten
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Sept 22, 2018 15:08:23 GMT
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Good progress π Feel your pain regarding your eye. Hopefully had it out in one. I had a carbide tip shatter on me in May. Three trips to the eye hospital to get all of it out π
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vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,286
Club RR Member Number: 146
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Sept 22, 2018 16:35:02 GMT
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For restricting how far the axle drops, would a simple check strap be sufficient? Princess and Allegro use them to stop the rear arms dropping too far.
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