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Apr 20, 2020 20:24:31 GMT
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Will you be using a decomp plate to allow for the blown pressure not overloading the rings, big ends and main bearings?
Great work on the engine bay.
No - I'll just be crossing my fingers and have my chequebook on stand-by  Factory compression is only 8.3:1 and the MGB boys seem to get away without modifying their internals. It won't be raced or rallied, and the engine was rebuilt at great expense by the previous owner. So I might get lucky  This will be fine at 8.3:1, with what you plan on pumping into it, no worries at all. |
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1987 Supercharged BMW R1150 Citroen 2cv Hillclimb Monster
1995 Renault Master Mk1 Race Transporter
1994 Mazda MX5 Mk1 / NA Road Going Class Hillclimber
1991 UMM Alter II Crew Cab OM606 SuperTurbo Diesel MegaUMM Overlander
1992 UMM Alter II Station Wagon
1980 UMM Cournil - survivor - resto project
1979 Lomax 224
2014 VW T5.1 Transporter Kombi Highline
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Apr 20, 2020 20:37:07 GMT
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I had the same problem with the steering shaft gator on my rover P5B (which is on the cabin side) which is NLA. I made a flange and welded a piece of pipe under an angle and used a piece of straight rubber hose which i found in my shed  On the picture you see the original gator in the middle of the picture underneath the shaft The flanch i made is in the picture underneath in the lower rh corner  Nice job on the engine compartiment and the blower! Peter |
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Apr 20, 2020 21:09:43 GMT
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The ceramic coatings on exhausts are usually to keep the heat in and gas speeds up, here you want something to get the heat out, basically maximise surface area and air flow over it. There are loads of things you could do but at the end of the day its all about learning as you go, I get the feeling this is going to be more blower Bentley technology than modern super car, they went pretty well with pretty much what you are doing.
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Wouldn't you ceramic coat/wrap the exhaust to keep the heat in, and add fins to the intake to help get rid of some heat?
How effective would the fins be, though?
With how fast the air is pushing through, you'd probably need a fair waft of air from the rad fan to pull the heat off quick enough to make a difference..?
Be interesting to see the difference.
Make another intake! For science!
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moglite
Part of things
Posts: 815 
Club RR Member Number: 144
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Wouldn't you ceramic coat/wrap the exhaust to keep the heat in, and add fins to the intake to help get rid of some heat? How effective would the fins be, though? With how fast the air is pushing through, you'd probably need a fair waft of air from the rad fan to pull the heat off quick enough to make a difference..? Be interesting to see the difference. Make another intake! For science! For science - brilliant  For now I'll rely on to keep the engine/intake temperatures down Upgraded radiator - hopefully
Electric fan on the radiator
Intake spaced away from exhaust
Bonnet louvres
and of course at this rate, the master stroke is.....it'll probably never get out of the garage !! |
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1967 Morris Oxford Traveller
1979 Toyota LandCruiser BJ40
1993 Daimler Double Six
2007 Volvo XC70 2.4D
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Apr 21, 2020 11:52:02 GMT
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Wouldn't you ceramic coat/wrap the exhaust to keep the heat in, and add fins to the intake to help get rid of some heat? How effective would the fins be, though? With how fast the air is pushing through, you'd probably need a fair waft of air from the rad fan to pull the heat off quick enough to make a difference..? Be interesting to see the difference. Make another intake! For science! Ceramic coating the exhaust in mine (albeit an oil cooled flat twin with limited space around it) reduced oil temperature by 10 degrees when at full attack. Hellishly expensive but does work. FOR SCIENCE!! |
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1987 Supercharged BMW R1150 Citroen 2cv Hillclimb Monster
1995 Renault Master Mk1 Race Transporter
1994 Mazda MX5 Mk1 / NA Road Going Class Hillclimber
1991 UMM Alter II Crew Cab OM606 SuperTurbo Diesel MegaUMM Overlander
1992 UMM Alter II Station Wagon
1980 UMM Cournil - survivor - resto project
1979 Lomax 224
2014 VW T5.1 Transporter Kombi Highline
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lebowski
Part of things
Hillman Avenger, Clan Clover
Posts: 488
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Apr 21, 2020 11:56:01 GMT
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I think with 5psi and 8.3:1 compression ratio you won't need to worry about charge temperature. I wouldn't be surprised if you don't even need to retard the ignition.
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lebowski
Part of things
Hillman Avenger, Clan Clover
Posts: 488
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Apr 21, 2020 11:56:22 GMT
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Although I bet you won't stay at 5psi for long!
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moglite
Part of things
Posts: 815
Club RR Member Number: 144
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Apr 21, 2020 12:24:20 GMT
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Although I bet you won't stay at 5psi for long! I've got a 62mm supercharger pulley fitted at the moment, that gives me a theoretical boost of 8.5psi. Who knows what the real world figures will be with losses etc?? 7ish I suppose  For when I want things to go bang, I've got a 50mm pulley too, that is a theoretical boost of 14psi, and will drive the supercharger to its 16K limit at the vehicle redline. |
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1967 Morris Oxford Traveller
1979 Toyota LandCruiser BJ40
1993 Daimler Double Six
2007 Volvo XC70 2.4D
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lebowski
Part of things
Hillman Avenger, Clan Clover
Posts: 488
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Apr 21, 2020 12:33:50 GMT
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Ah OK. Not sure where I got 5psi from then. I still think you'll be fine at 8psi. Maybe some slight ignition retard.
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Apr 21, 2020 12:49:34 GMT
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I had both the exhaust manifolds ceramic coated on my V8 P6 Rover many years ago by this company www.zircotec.com/exhaust-coatings/It brought the under bonnet temps down by 30% but was at a great expense - still far, far cheaper then a over heated / rebuilt engine though |
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Apr 21, 2020 17:59:38 GMT
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Wrapping the manifold has much the same effect, costs a lot less and you have enougg space for it, given the amount of space around the engine and having a louvred bonnet I don't think underbonnet temps will be that high anyway.
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goldnrust
West Midlands
Minimalist
Posts: 1,889
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Apr 21, 2020 20:19:31 GMT
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Looks very cool there in the engine bay.  My 2p, would be that I wouldn't wanna go above 5-7psi without some charge cooling. It's not that you can't do it without damaging the engine, but the extra heat you're adding to the incoming air will cause you to loose power because it will thin the air and you'll have to back off ignition timing to avoid detonation. Above that 5-7psi range, you're likely to be loosing more power from the heat than you'd gain from the extra boost. I ran my MX5 turbo without any charge cooling upto 7psi. Then I fitted an intercooler and the difference was hugely noticeably. I appreciate that you can't run an intercooler with a draw through set-up though. Being drawn through will help, because the fuel atomising will help cool the air some. Have you looked into water injection? |
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moglite
Part of things
Posts: 815
Club RR Member Number: 144
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Apr 21, 2020 20:47:10 GMT
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I've not considered water injection, but anything is possible if I run into problems.
But I'm going to get it running and driving as is, then see what issues I've got and address them then.
I'm not going for maximum power or dragstrip action.
But it is more to be different, and get "own a supercharged car" off of my bucket list.
Which I guess I can do now - I've just not started or driven it !!
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1967 Morris Oxford Traveller
1979 Toyota LandCruiser BJ40
1993 Daimler Double Six
2007 Volvo XC70 2.4D
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Apr 23, 2020 15:09:07 GMT
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OK, OK, there's no way that you are allowed to use conduit like that for your wiring without letting on exactly what it is and where you get it! Please Do a google image search for "liquid tight conduit". All kinds of options and fittings and whatnot to do the job. Mostly for industrial use, but looks good in this application.  |
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melle
South West
It'll come out in the wash.
Posts: 2,011
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Apr 23, 2020 16:23:53 GMT
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The stuff I have is called Kopex I believe.
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www.saabv4.com'70 Saab 96 V4 "The Devil's Own V4" '77 Saab 95 V4 van conversion project '88 Saab 900i 8V
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Apr 23, 2020 17:10:42 GMT
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Adaptaflex is another good flexible conduit and widely available
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moglite
Part of things
Posts: 815
Club RR Member Number: 144
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Apr 24, 2020 13:24:16 GMT
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Hmmm - walked into the garage the other day, what is happening to the Linn bins near to the ceiling.....  and another on the floor, along with my collection of big chunky washers. This is not good.  Small chips on the grey paint. Bl**dy great chips on the maroon.  All I can think of is I've had a bird in the garage, or a rat in the ceiling. I can't find evidence of either bar the damage done to the paint I did last summer. Not sure what I'm going to do about that - nothing yet. It can wait. In better news, the elbow adapter for the oil cooler line turned up, and fits well and give me good pipe runs to the front of the car.  I can't use those hoses as they stand though. The ends need to swivel round, but they are swaged on, and don't swivel in any way. Also the pipes themselves are too long. Whilst I probably could get cut them cut and re-swaged.... I'm currently thinking I wont use them, but I'll go to conventional rubber hoses as those are a bit bling for my tastes. |
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1967 Morris Oxford Traveller
1979 Toyota LandCruiser BJ40
1993 Daimler Double Six
2007 Volvo XC70 2.4D
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Apr 24, 2020 13:37:48 GMT
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The bins have given way because they are at the top of the wracking and get hot with the sun (hot air rises) on them and the plastic gives out due to weight in them, put some fabric under the skylight as a shade and the wont fall off.
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Last Edit: Apr 24, 2020 13:38:46 GMT by peteh1969
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moglite
Part of things
Posts: 815
Club RR Member Number: 144
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Apr 24, 2020 13:52:50 GMT
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The bins have given way because they are at the top of the wracking and get hot with the sun (hot air rises) on them and the plastic gives out due to weight in them, put some fabric under the skylight as a shade and the wont fall off. Interesting theory, but I don't think so. The garage has a apex roof, and that isn't a skylight, but an LED panel I've just been to measure the temperature at that exact spot - and it is 20C, it is several degrees hotter outside. I'm a firm believer in demons |
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1967 Morris Oxford Traveller
1979 Toyota LandCruiser BJ40
1993 Daimler Double Six
2007 Volvo XC70 2.4D
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