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Just three days back into real life after a very long easter break (extended by the fact my last work deadline was a couple of weeks before Easter began), and it already feels very odd not to be waking up with car stuff on my mind.
My car is tucked away and I'm on a train to London, trying to remember what it is exactly I do for a living.
There is now hardly any time at all left for car stuff between now and RRG, so I need to be sensible about how I use it.
Working the way I work, there is a risk involved in tearing into anything that won't be an obviously easy thing without risk of complications. Therefore as my car stays cool and doesn't overheat I'm not going to bother flushing the cooling system and changing the water pump before RRG. Similarly I may not check the tappets beforehand as a lot of the noise turned out to be loose exhausts and it is almost back to where it was. I do think its worth me doing them, but maybe in my next work down time period. I dunno, this may be one that I find i have a clear day to do. I have the gaskets, I'd just want to order a new set of fresh plugs to put in afterwards.
The local hot rod geezer who as far as I know still has me on his booking sheet has not been in touch nor responded to my attempts to contact him, but that's okay (I'm not "slagging him off" slagwatchers!), it just seems to be his way based on what other customers say, and having rattle canned the cars nose already it's probably not the best way to spend money having curse word paint blown over with new. I'll just touch up where I can, if I can as I suspect he's going to be too busy before RRG.
So for my records only, my final jobs list pre RRG is:
1. Check out new sump pan and prep for use if possible and easy to get ready (subject to inspection). 2. Change gearbox oil just because it's probably a good time to do it. 3. Clean carb just because it's probably a good time to do it 4. Do some rattlecan touch-ups to make scabby bits look black. 5. Maybe do tappets if schedule permits.
Really all I want the car to do is to get me to RRG and home again. Funny thing about this car though... I can drives it endlessly as a turnkey reliable runner as long as I'm just driving for the sake of it. On those few occasions where I've actually had a car related destination to aim for, it has thrown a sulk.
*Slags car off*
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I almost had a nice car for the SPOTTED thread, but turned out it was driven by a celebrity and she was sittingin it, so I didn't want to appear to be adding to her life of celebrityness being snapped by crusty members of the public every time she ventures into the real world. We had a nice chat though. She was clearly interested in talking about the car (A metallic deep blue Stag V8, Rover engine, converted to manual gearbox) and was chatting away for ages telling me all about it. Lovely example. Looked like it had just come out of the showroom brand new. Here's the pap shot of a the very same car. She's had it for eight years apparently. === Anyway... My sump pan arrived. It's very crusty but what can one expect from an ebay bargain. There are places where it looks like it will have rusted through beneath the crapola, but each area I've hit with my wire brush goes back to solid metal. I suspect it's a bit thinner than it once was in places but so far I haven't found a hole. I need to clean it up, find a way of attempting to test it for oil-tightness with some pressure pumped in, and if all is well, I need to find some time to fit it. Sump plug looks good as does the thread of the hole. Finger's crossed then. I think the thing to do at this point is clean this up, make sure the contact areas are good (the lip needs dinging back into shape in a couple of places) and coat it, ready to go on. Once I've got that as a back up, I'm going to pull my leaky sump plug again, see how good the thread is on the actual sump and whether that got chewed up or whether it's only the softer sump plug that got its thread chewed. If the existing sump still looks good it might be a case of taking a reading of the thread count and seeing if I can find the right diamter sump plug with the right thread pitch and giving it one last go before I swap them.
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Last Edit: Apr 20, 2018 9:27:23 GMT by Deleted
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glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,348
Club RR Member Number: 64
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This was the NAUGHTY CORNERglenanderson
@glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member 64
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Apr 20, 2018 11:52:51 GMT
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Clean the “new” one up, then lay it on a glass table top to judge whether it’s close enough to flat to warrant further work. If it is, paint it, buy a new plug with a magnet in, and swap it all over at the next oil change.
Punt your old one out on eBay, or weigh it in.
Save your overthinking for Ming’s beard reprofiling, interior console adjustments or headlining inspiration. The mechanical stuff just needs doing at the appropriate time.
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My worst worry about dying is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her it cost...
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Apr 20, 2018 13:51:32 GMT
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If life were that simple Glen!. The effect of the last 3 weeks of enthusiastic posting is that it may have created the impression that all I have to worry about with my car is how to apply sticky-black plastic to make it look like David Hasslhoff. In reality there is a growing list of proper mechanical things that actually do need doing, .and... Like.... Now. This is the appropriate time The list is actually a bit overwhelming. In hindsight I probably should have left the console, sunroof, rooflining, windscreen rubber, eyebrows, mingbeard etc etc until after RRG, and instead put all of time and effort into some much needed mechanical servicing. Too late now. Work has now punched me right up the trousers, so the car will have to be rested and limped carefully to RRG. I did get the left full beam headlight working last night though. I needed a feel good progress win at 10pm when I got restless. Easy pickins!
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Last Edit: Apr 20, 2018 14:29:29 GMT by Deleted
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Apr 20, 2018 14:22:01 GMT
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Who is the Celeb then? whatever she is on, I obviously don't watch lol.
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96 E320 W210 Wafter - on 18" split Mono's - Sold :-( 10 Kia Ceed Sportwagon - Our new daily 03 Import Forester STi - Sold 98 W140 CL500 AMG - Brutal weekend bruiser! Sold :-( 99 E240 S210 Barge - Now sold 02 Accord 2.0SE - wife's old daily - gone in PX 88 P100 2.9efi Custom - Sold
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Apr 20, 2018 14:27:48 GMT
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Zoe Ball. Mostly on the radio I think. I knew she was a near-neighbour (until a divorce recently) but I'd never seen her growling about the locality in a Triumph Stag before.
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This was the NAUGHTY CORNERfr€$h&m1nt¥
@freshandminty
Club Retro Rides Member 99
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Apr 20, 2018 14:53:25 GMT
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Zoe Ball. Mostly on the radio I think. I knew she was a near-neighbour (until a divorce recently) but I'd never seen her growling about the locality in a Triumph Stag before. You mean you didn’t try and get her into BNMAC?!
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Apr 20, 2018 15:28:38 GMT
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To be honest, once I'd asked if she wouldn't mind me having a quick look at her car I literally didn't get another word in edgewise, such was her friendliness and enthusiasm. I didn't even look round the car haha.
^ this is all meant in a very complimentary way, before anyone accuses me of "slagging off" Zoe Ball. She was really into her car. Awesome stuff.
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Last Edit: Apr 20, 2018 15:36:56 GMT by Deleted
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mk2cossie
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 3,059
Club RR Member Number: 77
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This was the NAUGHTY CORNERmk2cossie
@mk2cossie
Club Retro Rides Member 77
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Apr 20, 2018 19:13:57 GMT
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Good celebrity spot with Zoe Ball there @quatermass I have now finally read through this entire thread (well, I say read, I may have skimmed over parts and looked at pictures more than read stories) Only bit of advice I would give as to when you do the valve clearances, is take the spark plugs out to make the engine easier to rotate How easy is the roof panel to take out? could always remove it for fresh air in the current heat wave
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Apr 20, 2018 21:01:33 GMT
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Yeah, spark plugs will be out... I'm a numbnuts, but not that much of a numbnuts. Just need to get the dashboard out first so I can feed the plug lasso through the big hole there and then yank them gently from their fittings with a bit of brylcreem to get them moving. The roof hole could in theory be uncovered fairly swiftly except for fact it's watersealed, but driving it today in the heat, it did occur to me it might be worth it. One interesting thing that did happen today though was I had started to mock up a roof lining of overlapping slats. Hadn't got Round to finishing it but it was okay because the slats just snapped into place and stayed there. They haven't moved at all for many weeks. Apart from today. When it got really hot, and they all just gave up being rigid and flopped down while it was parked in the sun. So that will need finishing.
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CaptainSlog
Part of things
Posts: 510
Club RR Member Number: 180
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This was the NAUGHTY CORNERCaptainSlog
@captainslog
Club Retro Rides Member 180
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Good celebrity spot with Zoe Ball there @quatermass I have now finally read through this entire thread (well, I say read, I may have skimmed over parts and looked at pictures more than read stories) Only bit of advice I would give as to when you do the valve clearances, is take the spark plugs out to make the engine easier to rotate How easy is the roof panel to take out? could always remove it for fresh air in the current heat wave mk2cossie, I would suggest rather reading the text and skimming the pictures - the commentary is really amusing, for us fellow bodgers anyway.
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Apr 21, 2018 11:07:03 GMT
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Had a bit of free time this mornng and I'm really not happy with the way my car is running at the moment. It's gone from feeling tight and sorted for most of winter (bar the usual snaggles that I live with) to feeling a bit grouchy and uncooperative. Seems to blast along open roads in high gears perfectly but sit in traffic and it starts to sulk a little bit. Add to that that I now have oil dripping and it does seem to have got worse after yesterday's drive (now sat with an oil tray beneath it to limit the amount of staining on the road). Also, having cut down the orchestra of noises drastically by tightening up my zorstparts recently, I am left with this intermittent and occasional "shiff-shiff-shiff" when it's getting warm and when it's hot. Part of me wonders if this might actually be clutch or some friction somewhere. The problem is once I notice it I focus on it and them I find I'm unable to work out if it has become uncomfortably loud or whether I'm merely obsessively focussing in on it. Last weekend when out on a blast I freewheeled at about 60mph and out of gear I gave it some revs, and the noise stopped for the remainder of the trip. But it always comes back next time and I haven't been able to repeat that trick again. Anyway, the story seems to have been so far that it's probably tappets. On thing I noticed when I got back from my long 3 hour drive in the hot sun yesterday, was that there was a slurry of oil on top of the N/S rocker cover. The one with the oil filler/breather cap. So there's really something not right on that side and when I'm hearing the 'shiff shiff shiff' it does seem to me to be coming from that side. So I decided this morning to just make a basic start that commits me to investigating it and eliminating valves. Time to pull them there rocker covers off. Its my first Essex and my first V6. I really don't feel I know what I'm looking at. One thing I will say is I'm a bit concerned about the amount of 'play' there seems to be in some of the rockers, and there is about .4mm of sideways play in the rods (estimated by hand)... but I need to read up more on what I should be expecting there before I start duct-taping everything down nice and tight and filling the holes with Bostick. The other thing is I naively expected it to be the standard nut and flathead screwdriver to adjust, and it isn't. So I need to go and buy something if I'm going to adjust. As the hallowed Cliffords autoparts has now closed its doors that limits me to Halfrods and the internet. Shame. Anyway, it all seems to be getting oil, which is good. The plugs came out (after the shots below) and seemed to be mostly OK except that the frontmost O/S plug was slightly wet with fuel around the threads.... hhmmmmmmmmmmmm. Had fun pushing the car up and down the empty parking bay outside so I could watch all the rockers doing their thing over two or three cycles. So they are all moving. It's not as though one is obviously stuck. Oh, and the other thing.... there seems to be a height step between the inlet manifold and the top of the cylinder head both sides. I have absolutely no idea if this is okay, if it's within tolerance, or if it's a problem on an Essex engine which I have not ever fiddled with before. I have to assume that the engine was decked or the cylinder heads skimmed at some point and now it doesn't match up. Might very well be standard for an Essex... I have no idea... but it could be a problem! One random pic below to show the step. My gut feel is "it can't be too good". On other thought I had... I wonder if this might be the early signs of my oil pump breaking down and not quite being able to supply enough oil consistently. So it's actually the worrying sound of dryness I can hear when it's running. In some ways, in my tiny mind, my *hard revs in neutral* fix whilst coasting may well have been me forcing the oil pump to work a little bit harder and lubricating everything properly.
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Last Edit: Apr 21, 2018 11:37:00 GMT by Deleted
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vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,282
Club RR Member Number: 146
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This was the NAUGHTY CORNERvulgalour
@vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member 146
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Apr 21, 2018 11:54:38 GMT
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That's a noise that really needs to be heard to diagnose, shiff-shiff noises can be anything from serious engine issues, worn clutch components, rusty brake disks, or sticking brake drums all the way up to a plastic bag that's caught on the propshaft and is shiffing past the floor pan.
Have a good look around, jack the car up and spin the wheels, that sort of thing, before delving too deeply into the engine. Chances are it's not something serious and you're just hearing noises that have always been there. It does pay to be dilligent like this, if there is a problem you'll probably catch it early. Good luck!
P.S. I know naff all about these engines.
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Apr 21, 2018 12:06:12 GMT
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You are overthinking things.
It should not be oil pump - relax. If tappets went dry you would know about it pretty quick - they shriek and gall up and the engine gets sick fast.
Std 12 sided socket will adjust tappets, there should be play in them when at the base of the cam lobe so relax there as well.
Interesting to see pushrod guide plates - don't know if its std on Ford V6 or not but they are a good thing to have.
Again, the lip on the inlet - looks pretty std and nothing to worry about - inlet works and does not leak so its fine.
Read up on correct proceedure to adjust tappets & clean & gap plugs, possibly the carb might need a little tune up as well but do one item at a time to see the results. How is ign timing/ points? I'd be looking there as first point of interest.
Can't help on the shiffing sound - kinda need to be there to diagnose.
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luckyseven
Posted a lot
Owning sneering dismissive pedantry since 1970
Posts: 3,839
Club RR Member Number: 45
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This was the NAUGHTY CORNERluckyseven
@luckyseven
Club Retro Rides Member 45
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Apr 21, 2018 12:08:48 GMT
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Does the random noise change with the clutch in or out?
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Apr 21, 2018 12:13:35 GMT
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Indeed. I've done as many inspections as I can to eliminate as many contenders as I can, and I've managed to isolate this one noise from various other noises that had crept in over the last few months. At this point the conclusion is it's something that can't be seen. It is definitely more obvious when in motion but it can be made to happen when moving up through the rev range in neutral and stationery - which would rule out wheel/brake noise. In that event (stationary and neutral) it seems to be most prominent at around 2000rpm. When driving, it seems present at all times once I've focussed on it. The frustrating thing is I've tried countless times to record it and it NEVER turns up n the recording at all. That lead sme to belief my paranoia could well be amplifying it!
I myself have never been convinced its tappet noise. In the past, on smaller and simpler engines tappet noise has always been a fairly crisp percussion where as this does to my mind seem more of a noise I would assign to a friction rub or a pressure squirt.
My good buddy - who is very knowledgeable about a specific car/engine and has generally more chops and experience than me, has diagnosed tappets and having refused to go along with that until I've checked out as many alternatives as I can, I am now at the point of checking that out. If it is tappet noise I believe it's going to be softened byt he fact that it's a few tappets in sequence, making the 'shiff shiff' sound rather than one 'tick tick tick' sound.
The other thing I do feel (just a hunch) is that this noise is not actually anything to do with the slightly gruff running at the moment. But I need to tackle something off the mountain of things I feel need tackling, so I'm starting with this and I'll see how I get on.
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Apr 21, 2018 12:25:44 GMT
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You are overthinking things. What, me? Overthink things?? Surely not It should not be oil pump - relax. If tappets went dry you would know about it pretty quick - they shriek and gall up and the engine gets sick fast. Okay good to know. Std 12 sided socket will adjust tappets, there should be play in them when at the base of the cam lobe so relax there as well. Also good to know. I can see the kind of socket t ought to be but it really annoys me when I have to go ff and spend money on "one use only" tools hahaha. Interesting to see pushrod guide plates - don't know if its std on Ford V6 or not but they are a good thing to have. Me neither. This engine, as far as I know, is not standard. I have almost nothing to confirm what's been done to it but it had some fairly significant performance upgrades done at a rebuild stage sometime back in the mists of time. One of the things listed on the bill of work was around the valves/lifters etc "Competition lifters" is mentioned I think... but the details are very vague and indecipherable (handwriting) Again, the lip on the inlet - looks pretty std and nothing to worry about - inlet works and does not leak so its fine. Well, to be honest I'm not so sure of that. It might just be that it needs new rocker gaskets, but it does seem to weep some oil, and as far as I can see it has done so down the back of the engine where it's very difficult to see. After I'd had the car about a year I decided to have a bolt tweaking session and found that along with the sump pan bolts, the rocker cover studs were almost hand-free. Later I discovered the same for the inlet manifold. All I have done up until now is nip them tight again. I do think a new inlet manifold gasket would do wonders. I'm hoping new rocker coveres might be a small but helpful improvement too. Read up on correct proceedure to adjust tappets & clean & gap plugs, possibly the carb might need a little tune up as well but do one item at a time to see the results. How is ign timing/ points? I'd be looking there as first point of interest. It will have new plugs after this. I always put fresh in. A bit wasteful but I'd prefer to have fresh crush washers each time. I check the gaps before sticking em in. carb will definitely benefit from a tune up. I fitted it myself as a box fresh carb and I've always felt it probably ought to be tuned in by a pro. The MOT guy handed it back last June and said "I adjusted your carb to make it run nicer" and my personal opinion was it wasn't running as nice, so I adjusted it again myself. Can't help on the shiffing sound - kinda need to be there to diagnose. Yep. That's the problem with it. To get somebody to have a best guess at diagnosing it they'd have to come on a 20 minute drive with me, and then sit there while I went "HA!.... THAT!... THERE!... HEAR IT? HEAR THAT? HUH? THAT NOISE? HUH? THERE!.... THERE...SEE? HUH? HUH?" and they'd probably ask to be let out to walk home. So far my buddy is the only one, and his conclusion was tappets.
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Last Edit: Apr 21, 2018 12:27:02 GMT by Deleted
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Apr 21, 2018 12:29:23 GMT
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Does the random noise change with the clutch in or out? No, not really. It's not exactly consistent with anything actually. I've tried all sorts to see how it affects it. It's generally there once I'm up and running and little seems to affect it apart from that one time when I freewheeled at speed and revved a few nuts out of it (not drastic, but hearty). One that one occasion it distinctly disappeared and didn't come back for the remainder of the journey. But that has never been repeated. having said 'No' though... I am personalyl of the opinion that somehow it's going to be down there somewhere. A throwout bearing noise or possibly something to do with the clutch plate. I fully suspect the clutch plate is going to be a platter of gunge and oil when it does eventually get pulled out.
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Last Edit: Apr 21, 2018 12:30:45 GMT by Deleted
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Apr 21, 2018 12:48:22 GMT
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Inlet - if it is leaking could make that sort of noise. Spray WD40 with engine running around inlet gasket an see if it picks up revs - if it does inlet is leaking.
I had a randon chuffing noise on my first car - AA man thought it was a leaking valve, as did the garage it was towed to. I disagreed and drove car home (200 miles). Turned out it was a gearbox bolt worked loose and head was rubbing on the clutch!
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Apr 21, 2018 13:12:58 GMT
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that servo leaking in ?
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